Pages from Palmer, Volume 3- Part II, a Marine Parade UNPDF

GREAT YARMOUTH

65

PART II

"A change in the shape of the shell

"Changes the shape of the fish inside.

V ICTOR H UGO .

ame having blown one of her

trumpets for the O LD T OWN - , let us

now ask her to do the like for the

N EW .*

Defoe, in his description of

Yarmouth already referred to,

laments, as "the greatest defect of

this beautiful town," that there was

not room to enlarge it by new

buildings." It is clear that he, like

the inhabitants of that period, never

contemplated the possibility of

building upon the Denes outside the

town wall.

In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, as we see by the drawing in the British

Museum, the erections beyond the walls consisted, only of four windmills,

constructed of wood and standing on piles ; and three very small fishermen's

cottages, locally called cotes, erected near the beach. All the roads and paths

leading from the town to the sea shore were made for the purpose of going to

and from these mills and the three public wells, which were about midway, and

from which the inhabitants of the north, middle, and south parts of the town

obtained a supply of

The above initial letter is taken from a proclamation of James I.

VOL. III.

66

PERLUSTRATION OF

water. These "goodly wells" were made "at the proper costs and

charges of Mrs. Catherine Rogers". Cattle at this period were turned out

to graze on the Denes between the town and the beach; and nets were

spread out or hung up to dry.* The mills were very conspicuous objects

when there were but few houses on the Denes; and rendered the town

remarkable when viewed from the sea. The site of the north mill

appears to have been granted at an early period to John Cannon f by the

corporation. The latter also sold to John Harding, who was bailiff in

1574, a piece of land, whereon a mill was built, reserving a rent of 5 S .;

and, in 1583 they sold the "second south mill", then called the new mill,

to Robert Dell.

In the 18th century grants of small pieces of ground were made

from time to time and; without the town wall, the occupiers holding at

will, subject to a small rent, or they took leases for twenty-one years;

but no plan was laid down and no scale of charge made. The building of

houses was greatly discouraged under the mistaken notion that the

property in the town would thereby be depreciated; and when at the

commencement of the present century the pressure for building leases

greatly increased, the corporation passed an order that for the future all

such applications should be refused. In a few years however, the

demand for houses without the walls became irresistible, but the

corporation, adhering to the same policy, effectually prevented any

good houses being built by granting leases for twenty-one years only,

without any covenant for renewal (although a custom of renewal grew

up), and restricting the height of any building to twenty feet.

* The drawing referred, to exhibits nets stretched from pole to pole; not spread

on the ground.

f John Cannon was bailiff in 1546, and contributed liberally towards the haven. In

1551 he was fined for not wearing a velvet doublet. It was customary for the

corporation to appoint, a custos or warden to superintend the lights kept burning

before the numerous alters in the Parish Church, and to receive the rents bequeathed

for the support of the same, and to see such rents properly applied; Hugh Cannon

was the last custos. In 1538 the lights were put out; and every thing appertaining to

them sold; among which it appears by the accounts of the custos, wore two cruets

of silver, two crowns of silver, two basins of lattern, &c. A family named Cannon

resided at Swaffham in 1558, who bore on a bend cotised a pellet; and for a crest, a

cannon mounted on a carriage.

GREAT YARMOUTH

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Beginning at the north end of the town, the first road is that winch

extends from the North Gate, across the Denes to Caister, and is

therefore called Caister Road. It formerly passed two wayside crosses.

The base of the one which stood at a place called the Midsands still

remains; but the ruins of the other near Caister were entirely removed in

1797.*

Outside the town wall, between the North Gate and the river, there

are some market gardens, formerly belonging; to the corporation, and

now vested in the Charity Trustees. These gardens, are celebrated for

the culture of the radish. In the early spring the radish boy's cry used to

be beard more frequently in the town than it has been of late years, since

the number of small greengrocers' shops have increased.

Spring radish f — spring radish,

I've plenty and new;

Spring radish—spring radish,

Let’s sell you a few.

Come you who have money

Whilst I ha' got none ;

Buy all my spring radish,

And let me go home.

Come all pretty maidens

Who choose to buy any,

See here's your spring radish

Two bunches a penny.

Come all ye old wimmen, J

Be joyful and sing,

For here's your spring radish boy

Now come ag'in .§

* The wayside cross, although often passed with indifference, sometimes excited a

salutary thought; and he who condemns them as flavouring of superstition would do well

to examine whether there may not be more of sectarianism than Christianity in his own

frame of mind.

"Oft some lone cross stood near the public, way,

"That those who list, might there kneel down and pray."

These crosses served the useful, purposes of land-marks at a time when the road was ill-

defined; and especially in winter when covered with snow.

f Pronounced ''radosh.'' j Provincialism for “women” § "Again"

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THE PERLUSTRATION OF

And ending, when the stock is all but exhausted, with—

Here's your poor radish boy

Weary and tired,—

See here's my last pennuth,*

So I don't care who buy it.

The whole sung in the vernacular peculiar to Yarmouth, was scarcely

intelligible to a stranger to the town. These gardens are bounded by a

road which leads from the North-west Tower to Caister Road, and is

called Garrison Walk, otherwise Kerrison's Walk Below this roadway

may still be traced the moat or ditch, 60 feet wide and 8 feet deep (now

filled up and used as a spinning ground), which was thrown out for the

defence of the town in this direction on the breaking out of the civil war.

It was continued across Caister Road and round King Henry's Tower as

far as Pudding Gate.

Beyond this ditch, on the west side of Caister Road, there were

formerly a bowling green and some public gardens. Dean Davies,

speaking of them in 1689, says "I went with Dr. Hutson into the North

Garden." They were, subsequently called after their successive owners,

Stagg's Gardens and Snow's Gardens; and lastly the Apollo Gardens, by

which name they were known when finally closed.

On the west side of Caister Road is a red-brick building erected for

a Ragged School, but now used, as a Mission House. It marks the spot

where some pest houses formerly stood; and these probably occupied

the site off the ancient Lazar house; f and beyond is a road leading to the

river, now called Ormond Road.

* " Penny-worth." About 160 boys used formerly to be employed in retailing these

vegetables; but now their voices are seldom heard.

f It leads to an ancient limekiln next the river, long occupied by the Nuthall family.

There was a family of this name at Norwich. Benjamin Nuthall was mayor of that city,

and in St. Andrew's Hall is a portrait of him by Heins, painted in 1721. The Norwich

family bore arg., a shackle bolt, sa.

J "When, leprosy was a prevalent disease it was customary to erect houses specially

for the reception of persons so afflicted without the gates of every large town. "They shall

dwell alone; without the camp shall be their habitation," saith the law in Leviticus, and

there was in the English law a writ de leproso atnovendo, by which a parish might remove

a leper. Here leper houses appear to have been erected "at the end or head of a town"

before the walls were built. They were governed

GREAT YARMOUTH

69

On the east side just within the wall was a large house built in the

last century by Mr. Lee, who attempted to establish a brewery; for

which purpose he erected a plant at the north end, now converted into a

coach-builder's shop, and extensive mailings in the rear; but getting into

difficulties with the excise the business had to be abandoned. This

house, now divided into two occupations, was once occupied as a

factory, previous to the erection of the present buildings for Grout and

Co., and afterwards by Mr. John Kerrison of Ranworth. Just without the

gate, on the east side of the road, stood a half-timbered public house,

with gardens attached, called the Glass and Bottle, the licence for which

was removed early in the present century to a house on the opposite

side, called the Waggon and Horses.

The gardens on the east side of Caister Road, just without the town

wall, are now vested in the Charity Trustees.

On the east side of Caister Road was the Gallows House, at which

criminals stopped on their way to the place of execution.* In 1752 this

house was taken, down and the materials used in building a cottage for

the residence of a man to keep the gate across Caister Road, which

marked the bounds of the parish. At this gate no toll was taken; but

by a custos, who had a "foregoer" to collect alms for the support of the inmates. A small

chapel was attached, as no leper was allowed to come into the town. After the reformation

the corporation annually appointed one of their body to be custos. In 1637, when the

plague raged in the town, these houses were ordered to be fitted up for the reception of

the sick; and others were erected which remained until 1703, when the plague not having

visited the town for many years they were taken down. It was customary in former times

to stop the procession and to give the condemned man a glass of beer. "The man was

hanged who refused his beer," has passed into a proverb; implying that it is unwise to

throw away a chance, or to hasten an evil although apparently inevitable. It arose in this

way. A criminal on his way to the gallows refused to stop for the customary glass of beer.

The execution therefore took place a few minutes sooner than it otherwise would have

done; and the consequence was that life was extinct when a reprieve arrived which would

otherwise have been in time. The expression is also used as an excuse for not refusing a

drink of anything when offered. It is popularly believed that if a woman consented to

marry a man about to be hanged, she saved him from the gallows; the criminal himself

being of course a consenting party. This led to the following

ungallant epigram :~ " Of life and death, now choose thee —

" There’s the woman — here is the gallows tree;

" To make such a choice, how hard is the part, —

" The woman is worse — so drive on the cart."

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THE PERLUSTRATION OF

being kept shut it had to be opened for the passage of every vehicle. In

1824 this cottage was destroyed by fire; and the gate was then removed,

but the spot is still known by the name of the White Gate. Under the

churchyard wall, and without the North Gate, was a piece of ground

known as Gibbet Close.

The gallows —arbor infelix —stood between the stone cross and

the old haven, called Grubb’s Haven or Cockle Water, then long

previously filled up, for in 1546, upon the dispute between the town and

Sir Wm. Paston, Lord of Caister, as to the respective boundaries of the

parishes, a dispute which was then settled by the arbitration of the Duke

of Norfolk (Lord High Treasurer), Earl Marshall, and other noblemen

and gentlemen connected with the county, it was deposed by John

Dobleday, a man 83 years of age, who had been thrice bailiff, that he

had seen on that spot a pair of gallows which, had "fallen down, being

decayed from pure age," and a new pair set up; and Robert Weymond

deposed that he had seen fourteen persons hanging on such gallows at

one time. Richard Russe also deposed that about the year 1490 he saw

these gallows, and "divers men hanging thereon," upon which occasion

his father said to him, "Thou see’st how thieves be served, take thou

warning by them." In 1368 John Lawes was hanged for exporting seven

sacks of wool out of Kirkley 1 (over which the corporation had a

somewhat doubtful jurisdiction) without paying custom to the bailiffs.

In 1454 Thomas Fenn and John Almar, the late bailiffs were amerced,

because they let the gallows fall down. In 1463 John Pedle, for coining

and uttering eighteen groats made of copper and lead, as good and law-

ful money, was hanged."* In 1536 an insurrection was stirred up at

Walsingham in Norfolk, on account of the suppression of the abbey

there, the pilgrimages to which had been a great source of profit to the

inhabitants, and "two of the rebelles were hanged here at Yermouthe,

Although, this attempt to increase the circulating medium "was treated in this

severe manner, yet the bailiffs themselves fell into the same error, when in 1667

they issued a copper coin "for the use of the poor" without having first obtained a

licence; for which usurpation of the royal prerogative they were prosecuted, but

through the influence of Lord Townshend obtained a pardon at an expense of £90.

See P. C., p. 96, where a list is given of all the tokens known to have been issued

and circulated in Yarmouth,

GREAT YARMOUTH

71

and drawn and quartered."* In 1677 Capt. Booth, R.N., was hanged for

stabbing a seaman; and a special guard had to be employed. f In 1715

Emms and Noy were hanged at an expense of £5. 8s.; Ellys the

hangman was paid £2 for each; Richardson of Gorleston had for a cart

12s. 6d.; the rope cost 5s. 6d.; and the sergeants had 10s. In 1781

William Paine, a notorious pirate, who had long been the terror of all

vessels navigating this coast, was hanged in London; but the body was

sent to Yarmouth and gibbetted on a mound of sand on the North

Denes, J ever afterwards known as Payne’s Hill, where the gallows

remained standing down to the year 1804 .§

On the east side of Caister Road, immediately outside the town

wall, were extensive Nursery Grounds, at one time principally occupied

by Messrs. Youell and Co.|| Further on there was a stagnant piece of

* F., p. 22. The bodies of rebels were divided much as we divide venison; the "right-

hand quarter" being esteemed the best.

f He appears to have been a captain of a man-of-war, and was tried for a murder

committed in the street, the circumstances of which "did indeed call for justice," says

Defoe. It was thought by some that the Yarmouth magistrates would not dare to exercise

their power over a naval officer, but they did, and it does not appear that Government

resented it or blamed them for it.

J Hanging in chains has been for many years discontinued. The practice was to

hang - the criminal, on whom such a sentence was passed, in the usual way: and then to cut

down the body and invest it in a stout canvas dress, well saturated with tar; with which

also the face, hands, and feet were daubed. Then a light frame of hoop iron was fitted

round the leg's, body, and arms, for the purpose of keeping the ghastly remains together as

long as possible. At the top of this framework was an iron hoop, which went over the

head, and to this was secured a chain by which the corpse was finally suspended to a lofty

gibbet made of oak, and studded with tenter hooks to prevent any one climbing up to

remove the body. One of these hideous spectacles might be soon as late as 1818 on a point

formed by the curve of the river just below Greenwich; and the Editor has seen, in the

north of England, a gibbet with the iron framework, from which however the corpse had

entirely fallen away.

§ No London trader would consent to bring the body to Yarmouth. It was therefore

sent by waggon with "Glass with care" written on the wooden case. This is remindful of

the story of the remains of a young woman being sent down with the same words upon

the direction, whereupon a mischievous person scratched out the first letter. A foolish

trick was played when the above-mentioned gallows was first erected; for during the

night preceding the arrival of the corpse, a young jackass was strung up.

|| A specimen of the locust was caught in these gardens in 1845; another at Caister,

and a third at Ormesby. In the same year large numbers of the unicorn hawk moth 1 were

also taken.

1 In July 2003 there were regular sightings of Hammer-head hawk moths at Filby, in

the “Orangery” Garden. - Variations of weather and consequent rare insect sightings

from the Mediterranean are nothing new (see RRH).

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

water, popularly jailed Mother's Milk, useful for watering cattle. It was

filled up by order of the Local Board of Health in 1854, and is now

built over. The site is marked by a narrow road on the south side, called

Moat Road. All the enclosures beyond the North Gate and town wall

were made from what had originally been part of the North Denes

vested in the corporation.* On both sides of the road are stone-cutters'

yards ; a trade usually carried on in the neighbourhood of a church, f

The last road on the east side of Caister Road and leading towards

the beach was formed when Mr. Estcourt was Chairman of the Poor

Law Board, and is called Estcourt Road. On the south side of this road

a building has recently been erected for the purposes of the North-End

Mission. J To the north is a large enclosure, within which stands the

Parish Work House, erected for the most part in 1838, § and having

accommodation for five hundred inmates, exclusive of vagrant and sick

wards. || 1

The making of laws for the relief of the poor and their administra-

tion have always been matters of great difficulty. In 1665 it was

ordered that every person receiving parish relief in Yarmouth should

* Until 1802 no tythe had been paid in respect of land enclosed and cultivated which

had previously been open waste, whether such land was appropriated for charitable

purposes or otherwise. One of the grounds in support of the claim for tythe was that by

enclosing such land the incumbent's claim to lactuage was diminished. Dr. Lawrence, to

whom the case was submitted, was clearly of opinion that such lands were tythable, and

also all lands that might afterwards be enclosed.

t In 1716 as John Malpas, a mason, was sawing a solid piece of freestone, which had

been brought from Rutlandshire, he came to a hole about three inches in diameter in

which was a live toad. He took it out and placed it on the ground, where it hopped about

for an hour and then died. The inside of the hole had a smooth and polished appearance

and was about six inches within the stone. Similar instances have been recorded. See

Gentleman's Magazine for 1766.

§ The Rev. E. M. Tomlinson, sometime one of the curates, was the first who had the

spiritual care of this mission. He left in 1870 in order to take the sole charge of St. Mary's,

Tothill Fields, Westminister.

§ The necessity for a new workhouse was set forth in the report of a select vestry in

1832, who stated that the expenditure for the previous half year had been 4,800, that the

number of persons then on the books was 2,176, of whom 862 were permanent and 430

then in the house; the average for the half year being 389, maintained at a yearly expense

of 2s. 3d. per head per week.

|| The original building was designed by Brown.; but considerable additions have

from time to time been made.

1 Later to become the Northgate Hospital.

GREAT YARMOUTH

73

wear on the left arm a badge of pewter with the town arms thereon. The

like was clone at other places; hence the phrase "badge of poverty." It

was made compulsory by an Act passed in 1697; and any pauper

offending might be sent to the house of correction, and there whipped,

and imprisoned for twenty-one days. Before the Poor Laws were

administered so systematicially as at present, bequests "to the poor"

were frequent. Among others were the following: —In 1552 Gregory

Harwood of Reedham gave £6 13s. 4d.; 1564, Catherine Rogers, £ 100

to buy grain; 1586, Anne Girling of Lowestoft, £20 ; 1616, Benedict

Brown, £10; 1645, William Freeman, £20; 1647, Alderman Henry

Davy, £2 yearly for ever; 1674, the Rev. Wm. Vesey, Hector of

Bradwell, £200; 1678, Mr. Anderson,* £50, to be paid yearly to the new

overseers to carry on their office; 1685, Ann Hall, £200, "to raise yearly

£10 to buy coals;" and 1739, Philip Kettle, £30. In 1856 a silver flagon

for communion service was purchased by the subscriptions of Mr. J. H.

Harrison and a few gentlemen, and given for the use of the inmates of

the workhouse. For the year ending Lady Day, 1821, the amount of

income was £10,777. 12s. 2d. There were relieved, out of the house, 656

men and women and 573 children, and of the former six were aged

between 95 and 102. f The present income is about £15,000 a year* On

taking the census for 1861 it was found that the inmates amounted to

411, of whom 222 were males.

The first Auditor of Accounts, under the new Poor Law, was

Robert Rising, Esq., barrister-at-law, who still holds that appointment.

He is of a family long connected with the Hundred of Flegg, j ; being

* In 1678 Henry Anderson, one of the sons of David Anderson " of Boston in NW

England," "bequeathed £20 to the poor of the Parish of Great Yarmouth,

f in 1846 there died in this Workhouse Sarah Pycraft, aged 96, "When an infant she

was found in a basket in St. Nicholas' Churchyard, and taken to the Workhouse, where

she remained during the whole of her protracted life, except for three months when she

was married to a labourer named William Pycraft, but being utterly ignorant of all

domestic economy she was miserable, and gladly returned to the house.'' Other inmates

have also attained great ages. A man named Royal died in the old Workhouse in 1812,

aged 103; Henry Humphrey in the new house in 1858, aged 99. In 1872 Martha Bristow,

widow, 90; and Hannah Peacock, widow, 96.

t The name is derived from two parishes in Norfolk, Castle Rising and Wood

Rising, John de Basing held lands in the latter as early as the reign of Henry III.

VOL. III.

74

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

the only surviving child of the late Robert Rising, Esq., of Horsey, by

Mary his wife, one of the daughters (by his first marriage) of Isaac

Preston, shipbuilder, Southtown. Robert Rising, the father, who died in

1841, aged 73,* was the eldest son of Robert Rising of Somerton, who

died in 1797, aged 64 (by Anne his wife, whose maiden name was

Manship), son of William Rising of Somerton, who died in 1771, aged

70, by Mary his wife (who died in 1779, aged 79), only child of

William Tilney, Esq., who died in 1723, aged 48. f William Rising of

Somerton

The arms of Rising are vert., a cross or.; and for a crest, a demi-lion rampant, quartering

az., a chev. between three griffins' heads erased gu. for Tilney.

* When a very young man he was placed in the command of a merchant vessel, in

which he was for nine months blockaded in the port of Genoa by the French fleet. He

carried out the Hon. Frederick North; afterwards Earl of Guildford, when he went as

Ambassador to the Empress Catharine of Russia, at whose court Capt. Rising had

frequent opportunities of seeing that vigorous sovereign, as also the Princes Alexander

and Constantine. On retiring from the sea he purchased of Sir Berney Brograve a

considerable estate at Horsey, lying on the coast between Waxham and Winterton, and

showing by the termination ey that it had once been an island. Its lonely situation,

exposed to all the winds of heaven, comprising as it did long tracts of marshland, with a

sheet of water containing 113 acres, called Horsey-Mere, rendered it singularly uninviting

except to sportsmen, who valued it especially for water fowl with which it abounded. It

had been recommended to Government as a fit place for the confinement of prisoners of

war, as there was but one road to it, and that a bad one; and it was by some considered

especially adapted for the French as it contained an innumerable quantity of frogs. By the

judicious application of capital in draining the marshes end repairing the sea bank to

prevent inundations which had previously been frequent, Mr. Rising rendered it one of the

most fertile estates in the county; and accessible by the construction of a road from

Somerton. So serious was the influx of the now in former times that the Church of St.

Margaret, Little Waxham, within the bounds of Horsey was entirely swept away. In 1792

a body of water broke through between Horsey and Waxham, and extended to Hickling

Broad, where it destroyed all the fresh water fish, did great damage to the land, and left,

on subsiding, a dreadful effluvia. In the reign of Edward I. lands at Horsey were held by

Sir Oliver de Ingham by the service of a rose. From the Inghams they passed to the

Stapeltons and Calthorpes, and from the latter to the Pastons. On the death of the last Earl

of Yarmouth the Horsey estate was purchased by Lord Anson, the circumnavigator. The

last possessors were the Brograves, who bore arg., three lioncels in pale, pass. gardant.

Sir Barney Brograve, Bart., died at Norwich in 1797, aged 71, and the title is now extinct.

f The name of Tilney is derived from a village near Lynn. In Riley's Memorials of

London an amusing story is told how one William Frenkysshe presented

GREAT YARMOUTH

75

had another son, Tilney Rising of Hemsby, who died in 1700, aged 65 .

Robert Rising of Somerton had, among other sons, William Rising of

Somerton, a Magistrate for Norfolk, who died in 1846, aged 77.*

George Rising of Caister who married Mary, youngest daughter of Mr.

Charles Beart of Gorleston, and died at Southtown in 1859, aged 79;

and John Rising, who whilst returning from the West Indies in

command of a merchant ship named the Vanguard in 1800, and having,

after a stormy passage, reached the threshold of home , was captured off

Beachy Head by the French privateer Ambuscade, Antonio Baldier,

captain, carrying fourteen guns and 120 men, and taken into Dieppe,

whence he was gent to a prison at Arras, and there he found a Yarmouth

.man named Meall and no less than nine West India captains, with

whom he had been previously intimate, some of whom had been from

two to five years in confinement. The above capture was not made

without considerable resistance, during which a ball went through.

Rising's hat, taking away a lock of hair; but the water having in a

previous gale

himself to John Tilney of Tilney, and asserted that he was the son and heir of the Earl of

Ormond; and that because the king "Wished him to marry one of the queen's damsels,

against his will", he had fled from court and was concealing himself, it being his own wish

to marry elsewhere as he might be disposed, and he prevailed upon Tilney to furnish him

with lodging and clothes suitable to his rank until he could provide for himself out of the

revenue of his castles and lands, promising to take to wife, Katharine, the squire's

daughter, then a child of seven years old, and make her a countess. Tilney, giving full

credence to his words, sold some property to find the pretended nobleman with funds. The

impostor next persuaded Tilney to take him to London, where the claimant required to

have handsome lodgings provided for him and all other things befitting his rank. All this

the simple-minded Tilney did, to the impoverishment of his estate, dazzled with the idea

of seeing the little Katharine one day a countess. When in London the bubble burst; the

pretended nobleman was taken before the Lord Mayor who sent him to the pillory, there to

stand for three hours with a whetstone hung round Ins neck as a token of his being a liar;

alter which he was remanded to Newgate, there to remain until he had satisfied the

damages awarded against him at a suit instituted by Tilney in the Sheriff's Court. "We

must not however ridicule the credulity of this worthy Norfolk squire, when, we reflect

that in the present century the "Fortunate Youth," as he was called, imposed upon a

number of persons of all conditions in the same county; and still later a "claimant" has

appeared in whose pretensions, in despite of the most conclusive-evidence, many persons

of good position as well as the vulgar, implicitly believed.

* William Rising of Martham House, a Magistrate for Norfolk, died in 1871, aged

58.

76

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

got into the magazine, the vessel being almost a wreck, and two other

privateers appearing in sight, Rising was compelled to surrender. In the

following month he died in prison and was buried at Arras, where a

monument was erected to his memory.* There is a portrait of him.

Beyond the Workhouse, and as far as the bounds of the parish, the

ground on each side of the road has been planted within the last few

years at the expense of the Town Council.

On the east side of Caister Road, on the confines of the borough,

the Roman Catholics have a burial ground enclosed and planted 1 . On

the entrance gates is this inscription—" Beati sunt qui in Domine

morianter." There is a lodge for the keeper. In 1867 a Mortuary Chapel

was erected, which was consecrated by Dr. Etheridge, Roman Catholic

Bishop of Demerara, the first stone being laid by Lady Stafford. A guild

for the burial of the dead was established in 1849, and the first

interment took place that year. An annual report is published.

The road from the North Gate to "Lane's end" at Caister was

constructed by the corporation, under the authority of an Act of

Parliament (10 Geo. I., e. 8) obtained in 1712; and they undertook for

ever thereafter to keep it in repair in. consideration of an immediate

payment of £500 by the Parish of Caister.

Near the shore is the North-Star Battery 2 , formerly mounted with

48 pounders, latterly with 68 pounders, but in 1873 with new rifled 80

pounders, which guns are used for exercise by the Norfolk Militia

Artillery and by the First Norfolk Artillery Tolunteers. Beyond

* Here repose the remains of Capt. John Rising of Yarmouth, Norfolk, England,

who departed this life on the 27th of April, in the year of our Redeemer 1809, aged 33.

Jostles, probity, and sincerity, have, by his death lost an ardent admirer and a strict

follower.

Short liv'd the strains the Elegian muse can raise,

" The hand of time full soon her voice arrests;

Thy pensives friends, dear shade, unskill’d to praise,

"Embalm thy memory in their aching hearts.

" An ancient epitaph to one of this name commenced with—

" From out this precious sleeping dust

" Will come the R ISING of the just;

" Let not this world your soul betray,

" But drink upon your dying day."

1 See RRH for photo, also this is the site of Grubb’s Haven.

2 See RRH for plans of the North Star Battery.

GREAT YARMOUTH

77

are "The Butts" used by the Rifle Volunteers for practice. Three

hundred years ago there were Butts on the Denes very similarly con-

structed, being embankments of earth with a flat surface, having "dead

marks" as "bull's eyes" thereon. The latter however were used for a very

different purpose—the practice of archery—then quite as essential as

rifle practice in the present day. In 1572 the constables were ordered "to

see to the making of Buttes;" and the chamberlains were ordered to pay

for the same. Shooting at the Butts had long been a favorite pastime. In

1554, when Philip II. of Spain married Queen Mary, it "was complained

that his majesty had brought a number of "Spanyshe rogues in his

train," who introduced foreign games at the 'tippling houses' which

beggared the English yeoman, and led him "away from the manly

exercise of the Butts."* In 1581 a mark was ordered to he set up for the

use of young men assigned under the queen's commission to be trained

for the exercise of the caliber and small shot, and a subscription was set

on foot for their encouragement. In 1614, "for the better training up of

youths and to have the furniture of war in constant readiness," the mark

or butt for exercise of small shot was new made, and every corporator

was required to bring forth a musket or culliver.

Occasionally detachments of the Royal Artillery have encamped

on the North Denes for practice. In 1855 there was one under the

command of Capt. Mountain. In 1869 the men and horses were

accommodated at the Southtown Barracks, but the practice was on the

North Denes.

The first road running eastward from the town led from Pudding

Gate to a mill and also to a well called the north well; and is now

continued to the Marine Drive. It is called St. Nicholas’ Road, and

* "The might of the realm of England," said Philip de Coroines, "standeth in her

archery." The most anxious care was bestowed in the manufacture both of the bow and

the arrow, and in the selection of feathers. It was disgraceful to send an arrow a less

distance than 220 yards; and it was a test to send a cloth-yard shaft at 320 yards distance

through an oaken plank two or three inches thick, and lodge the arrow in a board placed

many yards in the rear. The sheriff of Norfolk had power to search for and seize any

"sound, dry, and ungreen" wood which he could find, and send the same to the Fletchers

or arrow makers to be made into sheaves, tipped with steel heads according to a pattern in

the Tower of London,

78

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

divides the North Ward from the Market Ward. Outside the town wall

were some public gardens long known as Mendham’s Gardens. At a

house on the north side near these gardens resided Capt. Zaccheus

Fayerman, R.M., brother of Admiral Fayerman of Bath, and the Rev.

Richard Fayerman, Rector of Oby and Thurne. He died in 1859, aged

84.* On the same side in 1870 a Boy’s H OME was founded principally

through the exertions of the Rev. R. Nicholson; and the result has been

satisfactory. On the north side of this road is the S ILK F ACTORY of

Messrs. Grout and Co. f The buildings first erected were destroyed by

fire in 1832 j and rebuilt on a larger scale. On the south side of the road,

opposite the Factory, is Bauleah, Cottage, originally inhabited by GK

W. Manby, Esq.; and afterwards enlarged for the residence of the

Managing Partner of Grout and Co 1 .

On the site of this Factory there had been an Hospital for the sick

and wounded of both services. In 1799 the corporation, on the

application of Dr. Snipe, granted a further extension of ground to the

Commissioners of Sick and Hurt Seamen. The wounded from the battle

of Copenhagen who were landed at Yarmouth were taken to this

Hospital. One of the young surgeons sent from London to attend upon

them was Mr. Martin Tupper (the father of Martin Farquhar Tupper, the

author of Proverbial Philosophy), afterwards an eminent surgeon in

London. He had been a pupil of Sir Astley Cooper, and died in 1844,

aged 65. When Nelson landed at the Jetty from H.M.S. Kite, he was

welcomed with great acclamation. The populace surrounded him, and

the military were drawn up in the Market Place ready to receive him ;

but Nelson making his way across the Denes through sand and dirt,

crowd and clamour, went straight to the Hospital. There he stopped at

every bed, saying something kind and cheering to each sufferer. " Well,

Jack," said the hero, " what's the matter with you?" "Lost my right arm,

your honour," replied the sailor. " Then," said Nelson, glancing at his

own empty sleeve, " You and I are spoiled for fishermen; cheer

* In 1816 died, aged 92, the Rev. John Fayerman of Loddon. He was instituted

to the Rectory of Chedgrave in 1749; and to that of Geldeston in 1754.

t The name is probably Dutch. Symion Symonse Groot settled at New

Amsterdam 2 , in 1645, and was the common ancestor of families of the name who

flourished at Albany and Schenectady in the United States.

1 In October 1996, I was on the front doorstep of 43 King Street, and was

assailed by a Mrs Smith, manager of Bauleah House, then acquired by Herring

House Trust, a charitable association for the homeless, who ran the hostel at

Bauleah House, and wanted a regular doctor for the inhabitants (see RRH).

2 After purchase from the Dut ch, New Amsterdam was renamed “New York”. The town

of New Amsterdam became a city when it received municipal rights in 1653 and was

unilaterally reincorporated as New York City in June 1665, making it the oldest

incorporated city in the United States. The Dutch Republic regained it in August 1673

with a fleet of 21 ships, renaming the city " New Orange ". New Netherland was ceded

permanently to the English in November 1674 in the Treaty of Westminster .

GREAT YARMOUTH

79

up my brave fellow." These and similar words had a magical effect on

the sufferers. Their eyes sparkled with delight; and such acts of

kindness rendered Nelson the idol of the fleet. When Nelson joined his

ship at Yarmouth previous to the expedition to Copenhagen, he found

the commander-in-chief anxious about dark nights and fields of ice.

Nelson exclaimed, "We must brace up; these are no times for nervous

fancies,"

In the 18th century there was a Distillery on this spot, for the

possession of which the Duke of Richmond, then Master-General of the

Ordnance, applied in 1782; but it was not until 1795 that the Distillery

was purchased by government and Barracks erected on the site capable

of containing 1600 men.* One of the first regiments to march in was

the Royal South Lincoln under Colonel Sibthorpe; followed by the

Bedfordshire Militia.

Yarmouth, as we have seen, always steadily resisted being made a garrison

town or having troops quartered upon her; but in 1626, after the futile

expedition against Rochelle, one hundred Irish soldiers were sent to Yarmouth

and billetted upon the inhabitants, and the town was assessed for their

subsistence. This arbitrary proceeding caused great commotion. The soldiers

being papists, and uncouth in their manners, were looked upon more as invaders

than defenders. The inhabitants armed themselves with pikes and muskets, and

guarded the soldiers until the latter were removed from the town. f On the

declaration of war against the Dutch by Charles II., great fears were entertained

that the enemy would attempt a descent at Yarmouth; and troops were sent to

defend the place. Viscount Townshend, at that time Lord Lieutenant of Norfolk,

was very active in raising men and organising a resistance. In 1666 Lord

Townshend came to Yarmouth attended by a troop of gentry and two foot

companies of militia, the latter being put into

* A further piece of ground adjoining was afterwards granted on the application of

the Right Hon. William Windham, then Secretary of War.

f They were probably sent to Norwich, for in 1627 the Mayor of that city protested

against the quartering of five companies of Irish soldiers there, and complained of the

outrages and disorders committed by them and their officers especially on market days,

when they marched about "utterly terrifying the country people," using uncivil language

and threatening to assault the mayor and kill the sheriff. Domestic State Papers.

8O

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

private houses. In the following year Sir William D'Oyly's regiment left

the town, and part of Sir. Ralph Knight's troop conveyed some money

to London. Major Wyndham took horse for Ely, intending to leave

Major Markham as Lieut. Governor, but he being a Roman Catholic

was not liked; whereupon. Sir Robert Kemp and Sir Jacob Astley were

left in trust, and Col. Farr's and Capt. Bramwell's companies marched to

Ely. Afterwards Sir John Holland's* regiment marched out, and Lord

Townshend's newly-raised regiment, with Sir Ralph Hare's of the

county militia, came in and had quarters provided for them. Sir Francis

Compton came into the town with his troop, and they took the oaths of

allegiance and supremacy, and afterwards received the sacrament.

(State Papers, p. 21.) Capt. Dorrell also came to Yarmouth with his

company, and afterwards marched to Landguard Fort; and forty Dutch

prisoners confined in the town were sent to Norwich. Sir Wm. D'Oyley,

writing to Sir Peter Gleane on the 22nd of June, 1667, after regretting

that Sir Peter had been sent away from Yarmouth, informs him that

there were then 2,000 foot and four troops of horse in the town; that

ships were ready to be sunk at the pier-head if necessary; the guns were

fixed, men's hearts up, and many officers and soldiers wished the Dutch

were in the roads. He adds that he never saw such steady resolution;

1,000 seamen were in port, some quartered at the guns, others formed

into companies; and all resolved to give the king a good account of the

town or lay their bones there. Thomas Cory of Norwich, writing, to

Secretary Williamson, says "the ranting Dutch have given some alarms

on the coast. The "activity of the noble lord lieutenant and the ready

appearance of the "militia must not be forgotten." Sir Nevill Catelyne's

troop also came into the town; f and Sir Henry Bacon's company which

had been

* Sir Join Holland of Quidenham, Bart., married the Lady Rebecca Paston, youngest

daughter of the Earl of Yarmouth. He descended from, an ancient family in Lincolnshire,

who came into Norfolk and settled at Quidenham in the 16th century, and is now extinct

See Blomefield, vol. i., p. 334.

f Sir Mevill Catlyne was knighted by Charles II., and was owner of "Wingfield

Castle in Suffolk. He died in 1702, and this property passed to the descendants of his

sister, Anne, the wife of Thomas Leman, Esq. (See vol. ii., p.p. 202, 205.) Catlyne bore

per chev. as. and or., three lions passant guardant in pale, counter-changed on a chief arg.

as many snakes nowed sa., stinged gu.

GREAT YARMOUTH

81

stationed at Lowestoft. The militia officers exercised their companies

daily, and, says Bower to Secretary Williamson, " they are now expert "

soldiers, though so ignorant at first, that they scarce knew their right

"hand from their left." In July Lord Townshend, accompanied by Lord

Richardson and other gentlemen, came in with a newly-raised regiment

of foot "with ten colours." Capt. Pettus came to Yarmouth and enlisted

eighty men. for service in Flanders; but Lord Darcy's troop remained at

Yarmouth ‘till it was disbanded.* In 1679 six companies of foot came

to Yarmouth, under the command of Sir Gilbert Gerard, Lieut.-Col.

Churchill, and Captains O'Hara, Whaley, Irod, Fanpreys, and Bagot,

and were quartered in the town ; and to meet the expense the sum of

£ 1,077 8s. 6d. was advanced, by Bailiff Robins, Bailiff Fuller, and Mr.

Benjamin England; for it appears the government in those times made

no .sort of provision before hand. (Assembly B OOKS ). In 1685 the

Marquis of Worcester's regiment was quartered here; and in 1687 Sir

Henry Shere, Sir John. Hanmore, and Sir Robert Douglas had to be

written to "for y e monies laid out for the soldiers;" and in the same year

Lieut.-Colonel Billingsley had a command here. In 1688 Prince George

of Denmark's regiment of dragoons was sent to Yarmouth; and in 1696

two companies of fusiliers were quartered here under Lieut.-General

Bellasis. The corporation were obliged to advance upwards of £ 3,000

for the maintenance of the troops in Yarmouth, talcing hills from the

officers, no provision having been made by government; and re-

payment was not obtained until after much delay and frequent

applications to the Earl of Ranelagh, who was then in office. f In 1759 it

happened that the 2nd Dragoons or famous Scots Greys, and that

distinguished Irish regiment the 6th Dragoons or Inniskillings were both

quartered, in this town. When paraded in the Market Place previous to

their march to Norwich, a dispute arose between some of the men as to

the merits of their respective countries.

* Lord Darcy was created Earl of Holderness in 1682 and died in 1689.

f He died in 1711 without male issue, and the earldom became extinct ; but the

viscounty remained in Abeyance until 1759 when it was claimed by Charles Jones, Esq.,

from whom the present Lord Ranelagh, who inherited the estates of the late Sir. Philip

Stephens near Norwich, is descended.

82

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

Angry words led to blows, and ultimately the troopers attacked each

other sword in hand, a terrible affray ensued in which several men and

horses were desperately wounded; and it was with great difficulty that

the combatants could be separated and compelled to desist. Both

regiments had some years previously greatly distinguished themselves

on the continent, especially at the battle of Dettingen. In 1765 a

regiment of foot marched in, leaving detachments at Saxmundham,

Halesworth, and Beccles, In the spring of 1778 there was a great stir in

the military world. Our bad success in America had given rise to an

uneasy feeling that our army was not what it ought to be; and that our

officers were old fashioned in their ideas, and our soldiers imperfectly

trained. Additional regiments were raised, the militia were called out,

considerable bodies of troops were put under canvas, and small

encampments were formed at Stowmarket, Bury St. Edmund's, and

other places. When the East Essex militia were quartered at Yarmouth in

1780 they lost their major, John Whittle, Esq., of Fering in Essex, who

was buried here with military honors. In 1785 two battalions of the line

were stationed at Caister next Yarmouth, and two at Hopton; where

subsequently the Leicester and West Middlesex regiments were

encamped, whilst the East York went to Caister, where in 1793 they

were succeeded by the East Suffolk. In 1795 the Huntingdonshire and

South Durham regiments of militia marched in; and in consequence of

some subsequent insubordination the Marquis Townshend was sent for,

who speedily arrived with some of the Inniskillings and Queen's

dragoons from Norwich, who soon restored order. In the following year

the East Kent regiment of militia, which had been quartered in

Yarmouth, marched out and the Oxfordshire came in; and the Marquis

Cornwallis, who then held the command of all the troops stationed on

the east coast, held a review and inspected the batteries. In 1797 the

Somersetshire regiment of militia came in, followed by the 9th (or East

Norfolk) regiment of the line. The colours of the latter were worn

literally to rags, and they were, in December 1798, buried with great

ceremony r and new colours presented. In 1801 the Westmoreland and

Anglesea regiments of militia were both quartered, in Yarmouth; and in

the same year the Durham militia

GREAT YARMOUTH

83

were relieved by the East Essex, who were followed by the

Montgomery and Cheshire regiments. On the re-commencement of

hostilities in 1803, great preparations were made to place the country in

a position of defence. Numerous corps of volunteers were formed in

Norfolk, who from time to time assembled in Yarmouth for training. In

November of that year the Norwich volunteers, 800 strong, marched in

for permanent duty, under the command of Lieut.-Col. Harvey; and in

the same month two troops of Norfolk Rangers, headed by the Marquis

Townshend and severally commanded by Capt. Sir M. B. Ffolkes, Bart.,

and Capt. Beauchamp, came in. In the following year the Shropshire

militia,* under the command of Colonel Lord Bradford, arrived; and

were followed by the Ross and the Cambridgeshire regiments of militia,

the latter being relieved in 1808 by the Berkshire militia, under the

command of Col. Bavenshaw. In 1805 the Fifeshire regiment of militia,

800 strong, which had been quartered here, left for Chatham. Four

companies of the line then came in, under the command of Lieut.-Col.

Gataker, and the Shropshire militia left for Ipswich. In 1813 the North

Mayo militia marched in; followed the next year by the Wexford

militia. At last came peace; the militia regiments throughout the country

were disbanded and the barracks were sold and pulled down. In 1823

some of the Royal Scotch Fusiliers were here; and in the same year

warrants were issued to impress waggons to remove the arms and stores

of a detachment of the 21st regiment of foot to Beccles; and

subsequently a similar warrant issued for the removal of the arms of the

80th regiment to Norwich.

The next road commences at Market Gate, and soon divides into

Middle Market Road, North Market Road, and South Market Road.

Adjoining North Market Road was a large Tannery, belonging to Mr.

Simon Cobb, which was destroyed by fire. There was also a large

bleach, now built over. At No. 57, South Market Road, Mr. Cornelius

Harley Christmas has erected picture galleries, lighted from the roof,

which contain a large collection of pictures, china, and objects of vertu.

The next road, commencing at the site of Theatre Gate, led to the

* Several battles were fought, on the Denes between, soldiers of this regiment, until

at last one of them was killed, which put a stop to these encounters.

84

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

Middle Well,* and thence to a mill standing within a short distance of

the beach. The above site was greatly enlarged by throwing down a

piece of the town wall on the north side in 1867. A new dwelling house

was then erected by Mr. J. W. De Caux 1 , the garden of which extends

northward under the town wall. On the ground adjoining to the east a

wooden building, originally intended for a circus, was erected some

years ago, which was in 1866 converted into a Theatre called Regent

Hall, and has recently been demolished.

The old mill road, diverted more to the north, runs straight to the

beach, where it is terminated by the Britannia Pier, and is now called

Regent Road. It divides the Market Ward from the Regent Ward.

The second detached house on the north side from Regent Hall was

erected for his own residence by Thomas Bateman 2 , Esq. M.D. f It was

afterwards occupied for some years by John Dunne, Esq., M.D. J

f See vol. i., p. 347. The name appears among the first on the Parish Register.

Matthew Dun in 1593 was married to Mary Sharpe. Dr. Bateman married a daughter of

Mr. Robert Pratt by Elizabeth his wife, one of the twenty children of Benjamin Cubitt of

Catfield.

j His only child, John Hart Dunne, now Lieut.-Colonel of the 99th regiment of foot,

was educated at the Yarmouth Proprietary Grammar School. He served with the 21st

fusilier* in the Eastern Campaign of 1854, and was present at the battles of Alma,

Balaclava, and Inker mar. He was also in the attack on the Redan, and the capture of

Sebastopol. He was with the 99th regiment during the campaign, in the North of China in

1860, and was present at the action of Linho, the taking of Tangku, the capture of the:

Inner North Taku fort, and the surrender of Pekin 3 . At the sack of the summer palace he

obtained a remarkably small dog, which he brought home and presented to Queen

Victoria. Dr. Dunne is of an Irish family, but the name flourished in Yarmouth in the 17th

century. In 1654 Thomas Dunne was returned to the Parliament then convened by the

Lord Protector, pledged not to alter the

1 Palmer’s addenda: De Caux – many Hugenot refugees of the name od De Caux fled

into England, and some settled at Norwich. The pays De Caux comprises Havre and

Dieppe, with its surrounding districts.

2 Mrs Bateman died in 1822, aged 57.

3 Now re-named Beijing. Beijing ( Chinese : pinyin : Běijīng; IPA : literally "Northern

capital". Beijing is one of the Four Great Ancient Capitals of China . It will host the

2008 Summer Olympics

* From this well the inhabitants were accustomed to

supply themselves with water by the primitive method of

lowering a bucket suspended at one end of a balanced pole;

which, practice was continued until the commencement of

the second half of the present century, when a pump was substituted. Being until within a

recent period, distant from any houses, the water of this well was considered remarkably

pure; and great pains were taken to keep it so, for in 1578 an ordinance was passed

prohibiting persons from washing their clothes in it!

GREAT YARMOUTH

85

and was lately the property and residence of Richard Hammond, Esq.,

J.P., who died here in 1871, aged 78.*

At No. 13 resided for many years Edward Steele, Esq., long known

and highly esteemed in Yarmouth society. He was born at Barbadoes in

1785, and was for many years an officer in the East Norfolk Regiment

of Militia. He died here in 1873, in his 89th year, unmarried, and having

retained his faculties almost to the last. He bore arg., a bend counter

componee sa. and or., betw. two lions' heads erased gu., on a chief az .,

three billets or.; and for a crest, a demi-eagle disp. holding in the beak a

snake all ppr.

No. 20 is the residence of Sir Thomas

Branthwayt Beevor, Bart. He derived his descent from

a Yorkshire family who held Oakworth Hall, as also

the Manors or Lordships of Gomershal and

Bockmondwick, all in the West Riding. Of this family

was the Rev. William Beevor mentioned in vol. i., p.p.

192 and 258. The latter was the, grandfather of

Thomas Beevor, who in 1750 married Elizabeth, daughter and heiress

of Miles Branthwayt, Esq., f of Hethel in Norfolk, and was created a

baronet in

government as it was then settled in one single person and a Parliament." He had Colonel

Goffe, one of the regicides, for his colleague. The mode of this election with the result has

already been mentioned (ante. p. 9). Dunne was among the Norfolk members who

hesitated to subscribe to Cromwell's authority; and who with Goffe waited on Cromwell

and entreated him not to accept, the title of king. It was then customary to pay members.

The corporation allowed Dunne 6s. 8d. for each day's attendance in Parliament, which

amounted to £50. In 1657 Dunne, being then in London upon affairs of great importance,

as he alleged, was chosen bailiff, but refused to serve, and was fined £40 for his

contumacy. After the death of Oliver Cromwell, Dunne was entrusted by the corporation

with an address to the Lord Richard, expressing their readiness to support his government.

He himself appears to have submitted to Charles II., for he is named as an alderman in the

charter granted by that monarch in 1663. He was chosen bailiff in 1668; and this time

served the office.

* Hammond, a name of long continuance in Yarmouth, is of Danish origin

(Hamund). By his will Mr. B. Hammond gave £50 to the Yarmouth Hospital; £50 to the

Priory Schools; nineteen guineas to each of the following schools, viz., the Charity

School, St. Peter's, St. Andrew's, St. John's, and the Primitive Methodists'; and a like

legacy to the Sailors' Home.

f The B RANTHWAYTS were also a Yorkshire family. John Branthwayt of Sibber in

Yorkshire, coming into Norfolk married a Clere of Stokesby, and settled in

86

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

1780.* Sir Thomas, his successor., married in 1795 Anne, daughter and

heiress of Hugh Hare, Esq., of Hargham Hall, Norfolk. f The arms of

Beevor are per pale or. and arg., on a chief indented sa., three lions

rampant of the first; crest, a beaver passant ppr. t

this county, where, in the 16th. century Miles Branthwayt purchased Hethel Hall, which

became the chief seat of his descendants. Of this family was Henry Branthwayt of the

Inner Temple, who in 1726 fought a duel one Sunday afternoon with another Norfolk

man, Thomas Brograve, Esq., and was run through the body. It is said that they went to

"the spot in the same Hackney coach quite unattended. Having divested themselves of

their scarlet cloaks, and discarded their hats and wigs, they fired with pistols but without

effect. They then drew their swords, and Branthwayt received a wound in his left breast

which penetrated to his heart. Brograve then withdrew the bloody weapon, wiped it on the

grass, and straightened it. Having kissed the dead body, he waved his hat for the coach

which had drawn up at Hyde Park Corner, and made off. Two discharged pistols were

found near the body". These facts were deposed to by a witness, who said he was "taking -

the air soon after noon" on that city near the place where the duel was fought. The

Branthwayts obtained a grant of arms in 1582— or., two bendlets eng. sa.; and for a crest,

a falcon rising from a rock ppr. (Papworth's Ordinary, p. 284) Of this family also was the

Bev. Dr. Branthwayt, Master of Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge, one of the

translators of the authorised version of the Bible.

* In 1786 he contested the representation of Norwich with the Hon. Henry Hobart of

Intwood, and lost his election by 67 votes only. Six gentlemen of the name of Hurry

resident in Yarmouth voted for Sir Thomas Beevor. He was unsuccessful on two

subsequent occasions.

f The H ARES of Hargham descended from Nicholas Hare, who died in 1689, third son

of Sir John Hare of Stow Bardolph, by Elizabeth his wife, daughter of Thomas, Earl of

Coventry. He had Hargham for his inheritance. They bore gu., two bars and a chief

indented or.

t Several members of the family resided at Yarmouth in the last century. Katharine,

third daughter of the Rev. Wm. Beevor, married the Rev. John Pitcairne of Yarmouth. In

1801 some sensation was caused in Norfolk by a challenge sent by the Rev. Augustus

Beevor, Vicar of West Barsham, to Major Edward Payne, in consequence of an alleged

insult by the hitter to the challenger's father. The major prosecuted the militant priest in

the Court of King's Bench, and the latter was sentenced to three weeks imprisonment, and

was ordered to find sureties to keep the peace. In 1809 Arthur Beevor, a Captain in the

2nd Dragoon Guards, sailed from Yarmouth Roads in the Crescent frigate, (under) Capt.

Temple. She was soon afterwards lost off the coast of Jutland, and Capt. Beevor and about

280 men perished. General Robert Beevor, mentioned in Note. vol. ii., p. 352, was a son

of James Beevor, Esq., of Norwich, a younger brother of Dr. Beevor; and the daughter of

Dr. Henry Beevor married George Harvey, Esq. The husband of Mary Beevor was the

Rev. P. Duval

GREAT YARMOUTH

87

No. 47 was the French Consulate. In June, 1861, M. A. Aubin

Desfongerais was appointed Vice-Consul at this port by the Emperor

Napoleon III., and was the first Frenchman who ever held the office in

Yarmouth. He was recalled by the government of Thiers in 1871.

On the south side of Regent Road is a building called the Free

Church, with a school attached.*

To the east of the well before mentioned is a small house standing

in a garden, which was the residence of Mr. Benjamin Fenn, who had

been purser on board H.M.S. Northumberland, Capt. Boss, bearing the

flag of Sir George Cockburn, K.C.B., when she conveyed the Emperor

Napoleon to St. Helena in 1815.

Further east on the same side is a Roman Catholic Church,

belonging to the Jesuits, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. f It was

erected in 1850 from a design by Mr. J. J. Scoles ; t and was opened with

high pontifical mass by Bishop Wareing. At the west end of the church

and communicating with it by a glazed cloister is the Priest's house. The

funds for building this church were raised principally through the

exertions of Don Claudio Lopez, a Spanish Roman Catholic Priest, who,

having been attached to the cause of Don Carlos, the unsuccessful

claimant to the throne of Spain, retired to this country when the

government under Queen Isabella was established. After enduring great

privations he was appointed to Yarmouth, where he laboured very

zealously. He returned to Spain and became a Canon in the Cathedral of

Seville. In 1866, intending to take a journey from

Aufrere. John Batt Beevor and Matthew Beevor, grandsons of the Rev.Wm. Beevor, as

well as their sister, Hester, wife of Robert Adkin, brewer, were all resident at Yarmouth.

* It was erected principally by the exertions of the Rev. John Dunning, the first

minister, a north countryman, of some eloquence both as a preacher and lecturer. The first

marriage service performed here was on the 4th September, 1859.

f At the south-east comer of the ground enclosed by the church wall is a school, the

rules for conducting which were printed in 1849.

t He was a pupil of Ireland, who, as a Roman Catholic architect, was patronised by

Dr. Milner, at that time Vicar Apostolic of the Midland district, Scoles designed the

Church of Our Lady at S. John's Wood, afterwards repeated at Edgbaston; and the Church

of S. Ignatius at Preston; but one of his most successful, works was the Church of the

Immaculate Conception, in Farm Street.

88

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

that city to Lozola, to pass some time in retreat, and whilst in the act of

taking his railway ticket at Burgos he fell to the ground, and in a few

minutes expired.*

Another road, commencing at Theatre Gate, runs to the south of

Regent Road, and was called 'East Hill Road’ but now forms a junction

with Albion Road, which continues eastward till it joins Apsley Road.

At the east end of Regent Road there stood a mill and miller's house.

The former was removed and a brick-tower mill erected instead, at a

short distance westward; and the house was purchased and greatly

enlarged by the late Edward Steward, Esq., of Norwich for a summer

residence. He died in 1874, aged 68; after which the house was

demolished.

About the middle of the last century Benjamin Gibbs built a small

house for his own residence just without Theatre Gate on the south side,

upon waste ground obtained of the corporation, and attached to it a

garden under the town wall. He died suddenly in 1787, leaving a

daughter, Ann, married to William Fisher, E SQ ., who died in 1797, aged

31. (See vol. I, p. 235.) Gibbs was of a Framlingham family, and lies

buried in the Parish Church there. In the early part of the present

century this house was purchased by Sir Richard Bedingfeld of

Oxburgh, Bart., who occasionally made it his summer residence; and at

a subsequent period it was occupied by J. J. Bedingfeld, Esq., of

Ditchingham. J Sir R. Bedingfeld died at Windsor in 1829 of

* The succession, of resident priests, since the repeal of the prohibitory laws, has

been—1824, Joseph Tate; 1835, James Dough; 1841, Claudio Lopez; 1851, Randal

Lythgoe, ob. 1855, aged 61; 1866, Francis Daniel; 1858, Henry Mahon (with Father

Daniel); 1866 Walter Clifford; 1867, Mathew McCann; 1868, Henry Mahon (with Father

McCann) and John Johnson.

f On the north side is Salem Chapel, erected by the Particular Baptists. Mr. James

Tann was minister here for fourteen years, and died in 1861, aged 40.

t There was a family of the name of Bedingfeld residing in Yarmouth in the 17th

century. Edmund Bedingfeld circulated a token with his name upon it, with a reverse

presenting a bundle of sticks. Sir Henry Bedingfeld was Sub-steward of Yarmouth in

1684. Two years later he was made Lord Chief Justice of the Court of Common Pleas, and

in. that year the corporation presented him with " half a tun of the best French wine" in

token of their good will. He died in 1687. The Bedingfelds of Ditchingham are said to

have possessed the Manor of Bedingfeld in Suffolk from the conquest down to the present

time. There is a punning epitaph upon a lady of this name in St. Giles' Church, Norwich,

who died in 1637.

GREAT YARMOUTH

89

apoplexy, when on Iris way to London from Lord Dillon's seat at

Ditchley, aged 62.* When Vice-Admiral. Murray was appointed to the

naval command at Yarmouth in 1811, he took up his abode in the

above-mentioned house. Lodgings were then scarce in the town; and

there were but few houses "on the Denes." Ludicrous stories are told of

the shifts to which the hospitable admiral was driven by the smallness

of his residence; post-captains being, it is said, sometimes obliged to

sleep two in a bed ! f

This property was subsequently purchased by Edward Tompson,

Esq. J who greatly enlarged the residence which he named Dene

House. He

" My name speaks what I was, and am, and have

" A Bed-in-field— a piece of earth, a grave

"Where I shall lie, until my soule shall bring

" Into the field an everlasting spring."

Mrs. Bedingfield, the relict of Philip Bedingfeild, Esq., of Ditchingham, died at Yarmouth in

1795, aged 34.

* Agnes Mary, one of his daughters, married in 1823 Thomas Molyneux Seele, Esq.,

of Bolton Park, Lancashire. They were for some years, resident at Yarmouth, as was also

Sir Richard's youngest son, Felix Bedingfield, who afterwards held a government

appointment at Mauritius.

f He entered the navy when a mere child, as the custom then was; and was made a

post-captain in 1782. After much active and meritorious service he attained to the rank of

admiral in 1804; and in 1811 obtained the above-mentioned command, which he held

until the 1st of June 1814, when he struck his flag onboard the Solebay; he received the

thanks of the corporation for his services. He was much esteemed and respected for his

exertions to promote the religious and moral, improvement of seamen; and died at

Southhill near Liverpool in 1834, aged 71, Admiral Drake was appointed Port-Admiral at

Yarmouth in 1815; and was the last to hold that post.

t He was the younger son of Timothy Tompson, Esq.., of Denton, and afterwards

of Witchingham in Norfolk, who had an entensive brewery at Norwich, sold after

his death to the Messrs. Morgan. The elder son was Charles Tompson, Esq., of

Witchingham, High Sheriff of Norfolk in 1827, who married Juliana, second daughter

of Thomas Kett, Esq., of Seething, Norfolk, sister and oventually co-heiress of George

Samuel Kett, Esq., of Brooke, Norfolk. On the death in 1872, aged 60, of Henry

Kett Kett Tompson, Esq., the only surviving son of this marriage, who by Margaret

his wife, second daughter of Rear-Admiral the Hon. Frederick Paul Irby, C.B., of

Boyland Hall, Norfolk (second son of Lord Boston), had no issue, the senior

branch of the family became extinct The Brooke estates passed by devise to Viscount

Canterbury, who had married Georgiana, Mr. Tompson's youngest sister; and the

Witchingham property to his nephew, E. Holloway, Esq. Mr. Kett Tompson had

been "pricked" for sheriff a few days before his death. The arms of Tompson are

quarterly, 1st and 4th, az., a lion pass. arg.; 2nd and 3rd, arg., a lion pass. gu.

90

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

married Mary Elizabeth, daughter of James Fisher, Esq. (see vol. i., p.

236), and died here in 1826, aged 44, leaving two sons and one

daughter.* His widow married her cousin, Charles Fisher Burton, Esq.,

and they lived in the above-mentioned house until 1888, when the

latter, in riding home to entertain a party at dinner, was killed by a fall

from his horse on the Southtown Road, being then aged 60 years. f

Dene House was afterwards occupied for a few years by James

Cherry, Esq., who filled the office of Mayor of Yarmouth in 1853.

Having been called to the bar he was appointed Poor Law Auditor for

Suffolk, and went the Norfolk circuit, living in London until 1872,

when he was appointed by the Earl of Stradbroke to the Clerkship of the

Peace for the County of Suffolk. Ultimately Dene House was purchased

by C HARLES C ORY A LDRED , Esq., a Magistrate for the County of

Suffolk and Borough of Yarmouth, who filled the office of mayor in

1856, and again in 1865. t 1

A road branching off from Regent Road near Theatre Gate and

extending eastward, formerly called East Hill Road, and now named

Albion Road, forms a junction with Apsley Road,

Another road also branching off from Regent Road near Theatre

Gate, extended still further to the south towards a mill called Hovell’s

Mill, now demolished, and is continued in a direct line until it also

forms a junction with Apsley Road. It is now called Crown Road. On

the north side is a house, with a garden attached, lately occupied by Mr.

Grimmer, §

* George Edward. Arthur Fisher, and Rosabelle Mary. The latter married, first,

Thomas Wythe, Esq., of Bilney; and, secondly (in 1857), the Rev. Frederick John de

Crespigny of Hampton Wick in Middlesex, brother to Sir Claude William Champion de

Crespigny, descended from a family who were compelled to quit France at the revocation

of the edict of Nantes in 1685. De Crespigny bears arg., a lion, salient sa., armed and

langued gu., in the dexter base a fer de moulin pierced sa.

f See vol. i., p.p. 227, 23 S. The freedom of the borough was presented to him in

1835. He had a landed estate at Jacobstowe in Devonshire, but was buried at Lound,

Suffolk.

t See vol. i., p. 287. Anne, the widow of Mr. S. H. Aldred, died in 1872 in her 98th

year, arms—gu., a chev. betw. three griffins' heads erased arg.; and for a crest, a griffin's

head erased arg. Henry Aldred was Vicar of Worstead prior to 1600.

§ This name which prevails in Suffolk is probably derived from Grimer or

Grymere— a pond whoso fleetness is favorable to the growth of vegetation; probably of

Danish derivation.

GREAT YARMOUTH

91

which was for many years the residence of John Scarlin Tuthill, Esq.,

whose only daughter and sole heir .married Timothy Steward, Esq., of

Heigham Lodge. (See vol. ii., p, 155). William Tuthill, his brother, who

resided in a neighbouring house, died in 1852, aged 66*. The first-

mentioned house was afterwards purchased by Matthew Gunthorpe, Esq.,

who removed to it from Church Plain. Adjoining to the east is a chapel

recently erected by the Baptists.

Beneath the town wall, between Theatre Gate and St. George's Gate,

were ropemakers' spinning grounds belonging to Mr. Thomas Lettis,

which were purchased in 1857 by the Town Council, and upon their

site now stand three detached dwellinghouses, erected respectively by

Dr. Tores, Mr. Charles Woolverton, f and Mr. Isaac Preston, jun., Clerk of

the Peace.

The next road running eastward is called Trafalgar Road, and

commencing at St. George's Gate is continued straight to the Marine

Parade. On the south side were ropemakers' laying grounds, extending

from St. George's Gate to some sheds at the east end. These have been

removed and the ground planted. The open-.space between Trafalgar

Road, and Crown Road, long known as the Chapel or St. George's

Denes, was in 1866, principally through the exertions of the late Mr.

Edward Stagg, J enclosed and planted at the expense of the Town

Council. This park in

* Besides legacies to county and city charities, lie bequeathed £100 to the Yarmouth

Hospital. Families of this name flourished in Norfolk and Suffolk, and in the City of

Norwich. In the 17th century, Miss Katharine Tuthill of Norwich in her will says "As all

my life I hated to see a solemne meeting without some good to the spectators, I desire

there should be a sermon at my funeral for the profit of the livinge; and he that preaches

to have 40s. for his paines, and not to say anything at all of me, for nothing can be said

but that I was a sinner." The Suffolk family bore or., on a chev, az., three crescents, arg.

f Mayor in 1868, and again in 1872. The name is probably derived from Wolverton

in Norfolk. Giles Wolverton was Vicar of Ormesby from 1580 to 1588. Robert Wolverton

was father of Beatrice, the wife of Thomas Hatte of Yelverton, at whose expense the

chancel screen in that church was painted late in the 15th century. William Nicholas

Woolverton, only son of the late Henry Woolverton of Yarmouth, after residing for

seventeen years in the Fiji Islands, was wrecked and drowned on a voyage to Sydney in

1872.

t He died in 1870, aged 57. He was Quarter-master to the Artillery Volunteers.

92

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

miniature, which is intersected by gravel walks, is bounded on the east

side by the house and grounds of Isaac Preston, Esq. Adjoining this

modern house is an older one of red brick, which was formerly the

miller's house, attached to the mill already mentioned which, stood a

little further to the east, on the other side of what is now Nelson Road.

Mr. James Hovell, miller, who inhabited this house for many years,

died in 1822 His widow died in 1829, *

On the south, side of Trafalgar Road, where it makes a junction

with Apsley Road, stand the buildings belonging to the Y ARMOUTH

G RAMMAR S CHOOL , designed by Mr. Bottle. They comprise master's

house f and offices, dining-hall, dormitories for boarders, schoolroom

65 ft. by 26 ft., class rooms, &c. Over the entrance porch there is a

bell-turret. The schoolroom was opened by H.R.H. the Prince of

Wales on the 6th of June, 1872. A spacious playground is attached;

and the school at present

comprises 157 boys, of

whom 43 are boarders.

Yarmouth boys here

receive an excellent

education at the small sum

of £6 per annum.

Manship writing in

1619 thus describes the

establishment of the

Yarmouth Grammar

School:—"Forasmuch as no greater profit can arise to the

commonwealth than by the instruction of youth in good doctrine and

manners, and that no less care is to be had therein than in any other

thing which doth concern the government thereof: for albeit, manly

nature is a gentle creature, who by happy nature getting good education

becometh divinely disposed; but if he lack his education, becometh

* Families named Hovell resided at Walsham, Wetherden, and other places in

Suffolk. They bore sa., a cross gu.

f From the time of the first establishment of this school and during its entire

existence a house was always found for the head master.

GREAT YARMOUTH

93

"the most wicked of all creatures that are born upon earth, for as Plato

saith man cannot honestly live or wisely govern, except from their

tender age they he brought up in good learning and discipline, the

reason is for that as the Almighty saith Genesis viii. 21 —the

'imagination of man is evil from his youth,' for which cause the minds

of youths be compared, to a white tablet whereon at the first good or

evil maybe written; so, if it be first possessed of evil, it is hardly razed

forth, for as a new vessel will retain the savour of the first liquor that is

infused into it, so fareth it with younglings, if they be not trained up in

the knowledge of true religion and virtue—which made Mæcenas

exhort the Emperor Octavius Augustus most especially to have care of

the education of youth, to bring them up in good literature; for thereby

they should be made the more meet afterwards to govern the

commonwealth. And Plutarch, saith that the beginning, middle, and

ending of a happy life consisteth in good education and bringing up.

And certain it is, a man cannot reap good wheat if he hath not sown

good seed; or gather any good fruit except he hath had a care in the

beginning to dress the trees well. For since the transgression of our

forefather Adam, man's nature (which of itself is more inclined to evil

than to good) hindereth virtue from taking surefooting and root in the

souls of men, if they be not from their very youth well and diligently

instructed and stirred up to that which is decent and honest; and truly

that commonwealth is most miserable wherein the tillage of infancy is

neglected."

These considerations, led to the establishment of a Free Grammar

School for all the inhabitants in the fifth year of King Edward VI.

(1551), when the great hall in the then dissolved Hospital of the Blessed

Virgin Mary was set apart for the use of the school (see vol. i. p. 31),

and Mr. Walter Haugh, “a grave and learned teacher,” was appointed

master, and a yearly stipend was settled upon him "with a fair house to

dwell in." Wood and coals were also provided "for the relief of the

scholars in winter," and seats in the Parish Church were appropriated to

the master and his pupils. Manship informs us that in his time this

school had "already brought forth many learned and excellent divines,"

and that he himself, "being a native," had received in that school his

94

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

"first rudiments of grammar." Like many similar establishments this

school gradually fell away until little was left but the master, the house,

and the salary; and in 1757 the corporation, in whom all charity funds

were then seated, put an end to it by withholding the master's salary,

whereupon he resigned, and no successor was appointed. After the

passing of the Municipal Corporation Act, trustees for charities were

appointed by the Lord Chancellor, who undertook with the concurrence

and approbation of the Committee of Privy Council for Education to re-

establish the Yarmouth Grammar School; and a temporary schoolroom

was erected, which has since given place to the present buildings. In the

Continuation to Manship's History, p. 368, will be found a list of head

masters from the time of Edward VI. to 1757.* The masters under the

new foundation have been—

1863, the Rev. H ENRY J OHN E VANS ;

1866, the Rev, J OHN J AMES E ATEN , D.D. f

* The Rev. Robert Pitcairn, Rector of Belton, who was appointed head master in

1722, published A Complete Syntax of the Latin Tongue for the use of this school, adapted

for the lower forms and "also for those of higher attainments," from which, it appears that

the education at the Grammar School was then, as it had been originally designed to he,

of a superior character. He married Katharine, daughter of the Rev. William Beavor of

South Walsham; and died in 1753, leaving a widow who died in 1766. He bore three

mascules; and for a crest, a sun in splendour. The master secondly appointed in 1563,

called "The Parson, of Haddiscoe," was probably the Rev. Thomas Pannot, who was

rector of that parish from 1554 to 1562; no doubt a good scholar, as he was presented to

that living by the Provost and Fellows of King's College, Cambridge.

f He is the eldest son of the Rev. John Hardy Raven, Rector of Worlington, Suffolk,

who died in 1851, son of John Raven of Wiggenhall St. Germain's, Norfolk. The Rev. J.

H. Raven, who on his mother's side was descended from the French refugee family of

Milville (corrupted to Milfield), who settled in West Norfolk after the revocation of the

edict of Nantes, married a daughter of John Richman of Dorchester, whose elder brother,

the Rev. Henry John Richman, was Rector of the Parishes of St, Peter and Holy Trinity in

Dorchester, and master of the Grammar School there. An intimacy sprung up between

him and George Canning when the latter was at Hyde Abbey School, Winchester; and

several letters addressed to Mr. Richman by Canning, some being written previous to the

removal of the latter from Eton to Christ Church, were communicated by Dr. Raven to the

late Charles Knight, who published them in his Half Hours with the best Letter Writers

and Autobiographers, p. 419, where will be found an account of Richman's tragical death.

Dr. Raven graduated at Emmanuel College, Cambridge, and on the nomination of the

masters

GREAT YARMOUTH

95

The next road, commencing also at St. George's Gate, and taking a

south-east course until it forms a junction with the east end of St. Peter's

Road near the Jetty, is called St. George's Road. On the north side is a

range of buildings erected by the late Mr. Cubitt Engall Bartram, J.P.,

called St. George's Terrace. In one of these houses resided Walter Kay,

Esq., previously of Tostock in Suffolk, who died in 1853, aged 75.* On

the north side of St. George's Road there is a range of small houses

called Harrison's Buildings, which were among the first lodging-houses

erected on the Denes. f In one of these houses, in the first quarter of the

present century, resided for some time

and fellows was appointed Head Master of the Bungay Grammar School in 1859. A

family of this name flourished at Otley St. Mary, Suffolk, of whom was John Raven,

Richmond herald. They bore or., a raven ppr., standing on a torteaux; and for a crest, a

cultrap.

* The Rays of Haughley, Suffolk, had a grant in 1770 of the following coat ;— az.,

on a chev. indented or., three martlets, gu . ; and for a crest, an ostrich or., in the beak a

horse shoe, az.

f At no. 7 has resided for many years Philip Pullyn, Esq., a Magistrate for the

Borough, who was mayor in 1847 and 1848, being the only instance in Yarmouth of that

office having been filled by a member of the Society of Friends. It was during the second

year of his mayoralty that the body of Dr. Stanley, Bishop of Norwich, who had died at

Brahan Castle in Scotland, was landed by the Crane at Yarmouth Quay, where it was

received with every mark of respect. The, following letter was afterwards addressed to the

mayor by the Rev. A. P. Stanley, son of the deceased prelate, now Dean of Westminster.

Palace, Norwich, Sept. 27.

My Dear Sir,—I must not allow this week to close without conveying to you the sincere

thanks of my family and myself for the respect which was paid by you to the memory of

my lamented father, on the occasion of the late disembarkation of his last mortal remains

at Yarmouth. It has been a melancholy satisfaction to us to think, that as Yarmouth was

the spot which, next to his own city of Norwich most engaged his attention during his

lifetime, so it was the spot at which all that remained to us after his death, was landed on

the way to his last resting-place within his own Cathedral. And I need not say how greatly

this satisfaction has been enhanced by the sympathy and respect evinced on that solemn

occasion by the inhabitants of Yarmouth, and not least by their highest civic authority. I

beg to remain, your faithful and obliged servant,

"A. P. STANLEY."

An interesting description of the burial of the Bishop in Norwich Cathedral will be found in

the Memorials of a Quiet Life. vol. ii., p, 312.

96

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

Thomas Gataker of Mildenhall.* On the south side are some small

houses called Vince's Buildings. At No. 1 in 1859 died Augusta Maria,

the wife of Joseph Cauvin, L.L.D., f aged 45, and lies buried in

Yarmouth Churchyard. She was the only daughter of Dr. Baur,

Professor of Botany in the University of' Gottiingen.

St. Peter's Plain extends from "the mount" on which the Yarmouth

Hospital now stands, to White Lion Road, on the north side of which is

the Church OF St. Peter, crossing at the west end the site of the town

wall, as may be seen by a crack in the brickwork. It was erected in 1833

from a design by Scoles. 1 This church is built of white Suffolk brick

with Bramley stone dressings. It has a clerestory nave, with aisles and

chancel. The ceiling is panelled. At the west end is a square tower, 90

ft. high, intended for a spire. There are side galleries, and

accommodation for 1800 persons. t

Leading from the north-end of St. Peter's Plain to a junction with

Apsley Road is Rodney Road; on the south side of which is a small

meeting house (the Bethel), erected in 1862.

The next road commences at York Gate, and crossing St. Peter's

Plain runs down to the sea, and is called York Road. On the left are

some malthouses, marking the site where the late Mr. F. R. Reynolds

erected a brewery upon waste ground granted to him in 1798 by the

corporation. Hence the above gate was sometimes called Brewery

Gate.* Towards the east end is a chapel recently erected by the

Calvinists.

* He was the first to introduce Hand Flys into Yarmouth, which superceded the

Sedan chairs already mentioned vol. ii., p. 128. The Gatakers of Mildenhall descended

from the old Shropshire family of Gattacre of Gattacre, who flourished in the time of

Henry III. They bore first quarterly gu. and firm., in the second and third quarters three

piles issuing from the chief and pointing to the base, of the first, and on a fess az. five

bezants; and second, arg., a Lion ramp, per fess sa. and gu.; third, arg., a cross pattee

fleury sa. George Gataker of Mildenhall, known in Yarmouth as "Young Gataker," died

in 1872, in his 81st year.

f The original name of Calvin. Gerald Calvin, who settled at Noyon in Picardy, was

the grandfather of John Calvin, the Theologian. Guizot's Calvin, p. 152.

t See P. C , p. 188. After the first turn the patronage became vested in the Vicar of

Yarmouth. The present minister is the Rev. Bowyer Vaux, son of the late Bowyer Vaux,

Esq., who died at Teignmouth in 1872, aged 91. A Bowyer was a maker of bows; an

important artificer in the early ages, ranking with the Armstrongs and Whitworths of the

present day.

1 Erected on the site of some stables owned by William Bell (see RRH).

GREAT YARMOUTH

97

On the north side of York Road, where it crosses St. Peter's Plain,

there was erected in 1867 a D RILL H ALL for the use of the Yarmouth

Rifle Volunteers.* The Yarmouth Corps of R IFLE V OLUNTEERS (being

the second Norfolk) was raised as a single company in 1859, and in the

following year was formed into a battalion under the command of Major

Orde. The adjutants have been—Robert Charles Holmes, f Robert W.

Smith, and Prank Astley Cubitt. J

* There halls which are a novelty in architecture, have been built in many cities and

towns very much upon the same model, being designed as places of exercise under cover,

for the stowage of arms and accoutrements, and for the transaction of the business of the

corps. The above-mentioned hall, from a design by Bottle, covers a space of 120 feet by

64 feet, and is built of brick and flint, with a slight admixture of stone. The roof is of one

span, formed of eliptic ribs, with framed uprights and principals, having diagonal

boarding on the rafters. The floor is of asphalt.

f He had previously been a Captain in the 10th Hussars, after which in 1858 he

became Adjutant of the East Norfolk Regiment of Militia, and was transferred in 1861 to

the 2nd Norfolk Rifle Volunteers. In 1863 he exchanged with his successor, Capt. R.W.

Smith, and became Adjutant to the London Brigade of Rifle Volunteers, and died in 1869.

Capt. R.W. Smith had previously been a Captain in the 30th Regiment of the Line, and

only held the above appointment from April to December, 1863.

t Eldest son of the Rev. Francis William Cubitt, Rector of Fritton, Suffolk, by Jane

Mary his wife, granddaughter of Sir Edward Astley, Bart., of Melton Constable. He was a

Captain in the 6th Fusiliers, was present at the action of Kudjwa, Nov. 1st, 1857, served

through the Oude Campaign, 1858-9; and was at the relief of Lucknow. He married

Bertha, daughter of Capt. Blakiston, R.N. (son of Sir Matthew Blakiston, Bart.), by

Harriet his wife, daughter of John Harvey, Esq., of Thorpe. Capt. Cubitt is Honorary

Secretary for the Government School of Art mentioned in. vol. ii. p. 400; and to him the

town is much indebted for the prosperity of that admirable institution. Some notice has

already been given of the family of Cubitt, (See vol. L, p. 207). "It would," says the author

of a paper published in the Norfolk Antiquarian Miscellany (part i., p. 215), "be more

correct to call them a clan, from their being almost exclusively settled in East Norfolk." It

is, he asserts, a purely Norfolk name, and never met with out of this county, unless it can

be traced back to it. Sir William Cubitt, the celebrated engineer, was the son of Joseph

Cubitt of Bacton, and was born at Dilham. William Cubitt of Bacton Abbey was a well-

known agriculturist. William Cubitt, for many years M.P. for Andover, and twice Lord

Mayor of London, was the son of Jonathan Cubitt; of Buxton; whose younger brother,

Thomas Cubit, born at Buxton in 1788, became one of the most extensive builders in

London. He purchased the estate of Denbies near Dorking, and George Cubitt of Denbies,

his son, is M.P. for West Surrey. The Rev. Benjamin Cubitt of Sloley married (for his

second wife) a sister of Henry Kirke White. Dr. Bensly of

98

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

In the same year (1859) a corps of Yarmouth Artillery Volunteers

(the 1st Norfolk), was formed, of which Mr. S. O. Marsh had the

command as captain; and subsequently with the rank of major. (See

V OL . ii., p. 233.) He resigned in 1863, and was succeeded by Mr. W. J.

Foreman, now Major in the Administrative Brigade. In 1869 Mr. W. D.

Palmer was appointed Captain Commandant. He resigned in 1870; and

was succeeded by Mr. T. Burton Steward. In March, 1864, Major James

Morris Hill of the Military Train became and still remains the first

adjutant of this corps. The 1st Norfolk Artillery Volunteers now form

part of the Administrative Brigade, which comprises also the 2nd

Norfolk Rifle Volunteers, the 1st Essex, and the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and,4th,

Suffolk Artillery Volunteer Corps, the - whole being under the command

of Col. Sir E. H, K. Lacon, Bart., M.P.

Some sort of voluntary military service seems to have prevailed at

Yarmouth from the earliest times. When the inhabitants obtained leave

from the crown to surround their town by a wall, they undertook its

defence; for there was no standing army and no other assistance to be

had. The town was, for the sake of convenience, parcelled out among

those whose duty it was to guard or ward it; hence the word "ward"

came to be used as it now is for a municipal division. These warders not

only guarded the walls and gates, but also watched the town during the

night, apprehending all offenders against the public peace. They were

not however exactly volunteers, as every inhabitant was liable to serve

or to find a substitute. In times of threatened invasion the crown

occasionally sent down some great officer of state (as the Duke of

Norfolk) to inspect and report on the state of the town and advise the

inhabitants, but soldiers were very rarely sent; and the

Norwich is descended from Thomas Bensly of South Walsham, who married Elizabeth,

daughter of Charles Cubitt of South Walsham and Lingwood, who died in 1831, aged 89.

There are engraved portraits of Thomas Cubitt of Honing, who died in 1829, and of

George Cubitt of Catfield, who died in 1835. Colonel David Storey, R.A., mentioned in

vol. ii., p. 351, married Anne Elizabeth, one of the eighteen children of George Cubitt of

Catfield. She died in 1824, and the colonel in 1841. They had two daughters, Mrs.

Sunderland and Mrs. Morshead. Lieut. Thomas Cubitt, of the 49th Regiment of Bengal

Native Infantry, third son of Lieut.-Colonel Thomas Cubitt, R.A., of Catfield, met a

soldier's death while gallantly leading the men of his company info action on the evening

before the battle of Moultan in 1848.

GREAT YARMOUTH

99

town, for the most part, provided ordnance and ammunition out of the

municipal funds. When the town was put into a state of defence to meet

the Spanish Armada, it does not appear that government did more than

send down an experienced officer, Sir Thomas Leighton, to advise the

local authorities. In the reign of Charles I. the Yarmouth Volunteers

took great pains to acquire some knowledge of the art of war, as appears

by a tract published in 1688, entitled G REAT Y ARMOUTH E XERCISE , in a

very complete and martiall manner performed by their artillery men,

upon the 22nd day of May last, to the great commendations and

applause of' the whole town, according to the modern discipline of this

our age, 1638. Non solum nobis, sed patr æ , by John Roberts. It is

dedicated. "To the Right Worshipful Henry Davie, President of the

Artillery Yard, and John Robins, Esq., both Bailiffs, and to the

Worshipful Company of Aldermen of the Town of Great Yarmouth;

also to the Worshipful Capt. Meadows, Capt. de Eugaine, Capt. Call,

Capt. Blauthorpe, Capt. Warren, Capt.Bonnet, and Capt. Carter; and to

the rest of the Assistants and Company of the Artillery men and after

the preface there is this address "To the Towne"—

"At Honour's Altar and the Shrine of Fame,

I offer up this Trophee to thy name,

For good desert, should Titles great inherit,

'' And ever correspondent be in merit;

" Such man use actions, martial-like were shown

'' By thee, th’ applause deservedly is blown

" Ore Court and Country, which doth canoniz

In golden lines Great Yarmouth's Exercise."

The "whole scope" of the Exercise was, first the rendezvous—the

march, with three several halts—the first skirmish—the sitting down in

the field—the entrenching—the raising, re-enforcing, and recovery of

the several works—the summons—the surrender—the conditions—

with many more remarkable matters." Before entering upon the

proceedings we are told that "the artillery men, with a general and

unanimous consent, upon the first proposition, liberally laid down their

monies for the furtherance of the intended purpose, whereby a "large

provision of materials" was made for both fort and field. The former,

which, was erected for the purpose on the Denes, was streng-

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THE PERLUSTRATION OF

thened by ramparts, ditch, counterscarp, palisadoes, barracades, sally

ports, parapets, redoubts, and ravelins, with 'larum bells, centre bells,

and beacons, with spacious platforms for ordnance, The field was fitted

with materials necessary for assailants, as "canon" carriages, linstocks,

ladles, sponges, badge-barrels, pioneers, scaling-ladders, horse tents,

suttlers, forage masters, scout masters, and "whatever else was

needfull." The whole was planned by Capt. de Eugaine, who was

Sergeant-Major of the Field and Captain of the Artillery Yard, "a man

well practised in military discipline." Two "choice commanders" were

elected; Capt. Meadows being General of the Field, and Capt. Call,

Governor of the Port. Each held in his right hand a "truncheon," painted

and waved with his colours, a "faire helmet on his head, garnished with

great plumes of feathers," a rich scarf from the right shoulder, a fair

sword hanging from an embroidered belt, with gilded pistols in his

girdle. The sergeant-majors had truncheons, three feet long, painted but

not waved, and head-pieces gorgeously plumed. Capt. de Eugaine was

chosen for the field, and Capt. Bennet for the fort. Capts. Warren and

Manthorp were appointed to the field, and Capt. Carter to the fort. They

"had their leading staves, with men attending to carry their pikes and

targets." The Lieutenants (Isaac Ingram and Nicholas Cutting for the

field, and John Roe and Henry Lunne for the fort) had head-pieces

plumed, fair and large gilt partizans, buff coats, and gorgets, with rich-

embroidered belts; swords and pistols "taking their proper places." The

ensigns (Daniel Wilgrave and Edward Denny for the fort, and John

Dasset and John Lucas for the field) "were gorgeously suted, being

proper men of person, with their head-pieces plumed, their colours

advanced, tucked, and richly apparelled." There were also assistants to

the sergeant-majors, and likewise quarter-masters. The Captain of Horse

was " wondrous well mounted." He was Capt. Thompson, with Lieut.

John Bucknam, Cornet Robert Austin, and Corporal Thomas Wood, "all

men of good quality and much respected."

On the morning of the eventful day "the drums of both parts went

about the town beating a call." The way in which the men were

mustered is then minutely described, after which some were marched

GREAT YARMOUTH

101

by squadrons into the fort. Meanwhile those destined for the field

assembled in the Artillery Yard, and thence marched into the Market

Place, "where their cannon, horse, ammunition, and waggons were

ready to attend them;" and having formed a "mayn body" they marched

to the field in the following warlike manner:—First, a cornet of horse

"with a squadron of musquetiers," then Capt. Meadows' company; in

the rear the colonel with the colours and a squadron of pikes, followed

by a drum. Then the second squadron of pikes, the second "squadron of

musquetiers" with a drum, and finally the lieutenant in the rear. Then

came Capt. Warren's company in like order, followed by the cannon and

baggage, "with a cornet of horse to secure the rear." Thus "in martial

manner" they marched (after making three halts) to the Denes, where

they were drawn up in form, of battle, the pikes in the centre, flanked by

musketeers with ordnance, horse, and baggage upon the wings. A sally

was made from the fort, which, after much firing and varied successes,

was repulsed, "but those of the fort took two prisoners." Meanwhile "the

assailants sat down and raised their tents, made their huts, and settled

their ordnance. Those of the fort "firing" upon them, all the while,

which was answered after a short time by the cannon of the field, shot

for shot." Then the "drum-major beat a parley," which, was answered

by a drum in the fort," and then the "drum of the field" blindfolded was

led into the governor's tent, and laying down a month's pay the two

captives were ransomed. "The army" then settled in their quarters, but

were presently disturbed by the ordnance of the fort, which they

answered by their cannon. Suddenly a fire burst out in the camp, "which

was done by a traytor from the fort," whereupon, "by beat of drum and

word of mouth," proclamation was made that every soldier should

repair to his own hut, which being done the " traytor was found alone

without a hut," whereupon he was committed to the custody of the

Provost Marshal; " and when there was a cessation of termes he was to

undergo the penalty of the law, which was to be bound to a stake and

muskateer'd." The pioneers were then sent to the front, two-thirds to the

trenches and one-third to the battery, and the cannon were placed in

position to effect a breach, whilst the "horse troops" were drawn up on

either flank behind, and "sentinels of horse" were sent out to discover

the

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approach of enemies. When the pioneers began to break ground, the fort

opened upon them "to beat them from their work and brake the new-

begun trenches." Nevertheless the works were advanced under cover of

the field cannon, the musketeers followed the advancing pioneers, and

both were many times relieved from the quarters of the army. "A sudden

sally "was then made from the fort to drive the men out of the trenches,

but after "certain vollies" were interchanged "the sallyers presently

hastened back again". Then "certain, squadrons of pikes and musketeers

are sent against the fort, but were courageously withstood, seeing which

more force was sent to their relief, but were met by vollies from the fort.

Despite of this, the relief joined the first assailants, and routed those

who were defending the outworks, falling upon them, pell mell with the

butt-end of their muskets and a push of their pikes, whereupon some

fled into the ditch next the fort, whilst others abandoned the redoubts

and retreated into the fort itself, both operations being performed with

great dexterity in a complete martial manner." "Those of the fort" then

made "a sudden violent sally" upon the trenches, which were damaged

and had to be repaired by sand bags. Those in the ditch then sallied forth

armed with clubs, thrashing flails, and "such-like instruments apt for

hard strokes;" and another sally was made from the fort but was

repulsed. The besieging works were pushed forward nearer and nearer

to the fort, and a party was sent out to view and report upon the

hornwork, who "malgré their fiery onset" returned in safety. The

commander of the fort "fired a beacon," and thereupon "certain troops

of horse appeared at the back of the army, outlaid for the relief of the

fort," whereupon another sally was made, but now the trenches had been

wrought so near the raveling and hornwork that an assault was resolved

on. Meanwhile counter firing between the works and the fort was

constantly kept up until the hornwork was abandoned, and a breach

made which those of the fort repaired with sandbags. At length the

breach was reported practicable, and lots were drawn for a storming

party. The first and second assaults were unsuccessful; but the third

party of assailants "lodged themselves near the top of the breach," and a

fugitive was taken and ''harqubasted." The drum-major then "beat a

summons to surrender,'' but the fort returned no answer except "by a

musket shot made full

GREAT YARMOUTH

103

at him from the rampart;" whereupon a general assault by the whole

force was ordered. "The Burgers" then "flocked about the governor and

persuaded a yielding," and the drum beat a parley, the result of which

was that the garrison were allowed to retain their arms and to march out

with drums beating and colours flying "like men of honour." Entering

the town by the South Gate they fired a volley at their commander's

door, lodged their colours and dispersed. Meanwhile the assailants

entered the fort, carefully searching the same for fear of treachery; and

having left a force to hold it, the rest of the army "marched back in a

seemly and military manner into the town."

All these operations and many more are minutely and quaintly

described; and thus the author concludes—"Notwithstanding this

exercise, thus in every particular performed, and a world of spectators

in every place, and near both cannon and small shot, God be glorified,

there was not either man, woman, or child had the least hurt done at all,

such was the providence of the Almighty, and such the care of the

commanders and officers; as also the expert musketeers were so

respective among themselves, that not one Bandeler took fire to annoy

the other or to endanger the unruly multitude in the least. This exercise

was performed with a great deal of charge and care, to the great honour

and applause of the artillerymen and town. And if I should forget one

alderman that is worthy the memory, one Master Owner, I should do

him great apparent injury, for he was the motive and principal

benefactor, who did forward this exercise, not only with his own

servants and cattle but liberally with his purse and painfully with his

own hands, in so much that he was seldom from the work while it was

in action, setting forward what might be the furthering thereof, sparing

no charge nor horseflesh, but rode well mounted here and there to keep

the concourse of people from danger; would there were more of his

noble and worthy disposition, which gentleman hath done many good

deeds besides for the good of the said town to his credit and applause. It

was my fortune to be present, and although I have seen good service in

the Netherlands and other places, yet never saw a thing better

performed and more soldier-like imitated. And this I say more, they are

very expert in arms, and did perform all their postures and motions with

judgment and dexterity.'' When

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all was finished, that noble and free-minded gentleman, Capt, Meadows,

invited his officers to supper, where I was myself in person, and there

found great store and diversitie of dishes, and, I am sure, plenty of wine,

in a very liberal well-beseeming way bestowed on them. In the same

way did Capt. Warren provide and gave free entertainment, together

with the rest of the captains. This was something like a volunteer field

day! In former parts of the work we have had occasion to notice the

formation of "train bands" raised in the town and officered by

townsmen; especially during the civil war when they did garrison duty.*

The same force continued after the restoration and in 1663 we find that

three companies of train bands kept garrison in Yarmouth.'

(StatePapers)

In 1746 the Earl of Buckingham, Lord Lieutenant of the County,

reviewed five independent companies in the Market Place. After the

march past they were formed three deep, and each fired three vollies

from right to left. In 1780 "armed associations" were formed for

national defence (See P. C., p. 263); and in 1782 the mayor received

from Lord Shelburne the heads of a plan recommended by government

for raising volunteer corps, which his worship communicated to the

inhabitants at a public meeting, convened by handbill. Lord Amhurst

recommended that such of the inhabitants as were willing should be

taught the exercise of the great guns in order to qualify themselves to

man the batteries in case of an attack from the enemy, which "there was

reason to apprehend from preparations known to be making in Holland

for that purpose." The bill said—

"There being Reason to apprehend that an Attempt will speedily be

made by the D UTCH to destroy the Town and Harbour, many of the

Inhabitants have subscribed an Engagement to learn the Exercise of the

Great Guns, in order to qualify them to Man the Batteries in Case of an

Attack from the Enemy; and such others of the Inhabitants as are

willing to use their Endeavours to preserve the Town from Destruction,

are earnestly desired to subscribe their Names to the said Engagement,

which, is left for that purpose at the Town Clerk's Office." In 1795 the

volunteers numbered 506 men.

* Robert Ferrier by his will made in 1618 bequeathed "to upholding and

maintaining the artillery company, £40. "

GREAT YARMOUTH

105

In 1798 a Corps of Infantry, called the "Loyal Apollonian

Volunteers," was raised under the authority of the 28 Geo. III., c. 27, for

the defence of the town;" the members of which undertook to supply

themselves "with an uniform clothing," and to defray every other

expense "except for arms and accoutrements," and they engaged to be

trained and exercised at least once a week, and for not less than three

hours at a time. Samuel Paget, Esq., was appointed captain

commandant, having under him J. H. Williams as lieutenant, and James

Bracey and Thomas Fryer Garwood, as ensigns. His uniform, consisted

of a blue infantry jacket, faced with black velvet, black velvet collar and

cuffs, and flaps returned with the same; gilt buttons with the Yarmouth

arms in a round shield, and trimmed with gold lace; white kerseymere or

cloth waistcoat (single breasted), and breeches of the same; white

stockings and half gaiters of black cloth, black stock, the helmet

trimmed with purple, with a bear skin, and red-and-white feather, gilt

chains and ornaments, and gold fringe and brass binding.* A similar

corps had previously been formed under the command of Samuel

Barker, Esq.; who had for his officers, Lieut. Nathaniel Symonds and

Ensign Robert Baas. f Among other things these volunteers were

required to attend in case of fire on the premises of any person within

the borough, on being summoned by beat of drum or otherwise.

In 1801 the Lord Lieutenant received a letter from Lord Hobart,

one of the principal Secretaries of State, directing him to pursue the

measures pointed out on a plan for the preservation of property in the

event of an invasion, and which provided for the removal, of all live

stock from the sea coast; and Lieut.-General Loftus, the general

commanding in Norfolk, prepared a scheme for dividing the maritime

hundreds into six divisions, appointing particular Volunteer Corps to

each

* If was however "recommended" that this uniform should not be worn" in

ostentation, "but as a mark of utility in the common cause," and never within the town

without side arms.

f He had a house in King Street, which he left in 1811 and went to reside at

Chediston Hall. In 1834 he removed to Halesworth, where he now lives with his son, E.

B. Baas, Esq., and is in his 97th year. Baas hears gu., a chev. betw. three roundlets.

VOL. III

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division, nominating places for temporary depots, and routes for driving

cattle under the protection of the yeomanry into the interior of the

county. The Lord Lieutenant also received a letter from Lord Hobart

recommending him to exhort the Volunteer Corps to exercise

frequently, and to be ready for service at the shortest notice.

On the 28th of July, 1801, a general meeting of the Deputy-

Lieutenants and Magistrates of the County of Norfolk was held at the

Shire Hall, Norwich, at which the Marquis Townshend presided. It was

resolved that it was a duty incumbent upon persons of every description

to come forward and use their utmost endeavours for the defence of the

constitution and for the preservation of their country, and that their

exertions should not only be voluntary, but vigorous, so as to baffle the

efforts of an enemy aiming at the destruction of both. It was also

resolved that the provisions of the Defence Act should be carried into

execution throughout the county. Deputy-Lieutenants and Justices of the

Peace were required to hold meetings in their several subdivisions, with

power to subdivide again if thought expedient, and to convene the chief

constables and all other persons whose assistance might be necessary

for carrying the measures for defence into execution. They were to

appoint leaders or captains of pioneers and inspectors over the several

contractors of waggons and carts, and to do the duties set forth in the

plan for procuring carriages and supplies. The Deputy-Lieutenants and

Justices of the Peace were directed to use all the means in their power to

obtain, the concurrence of the inhabitants of the several subdivisions in

the proposed removal of stock, procuring guides, pioneers, carriages,

bread, and supplies in general, and also to make returns of persons and

stock, boats, barges, &c. The Deputy-Lieutenants and Magistrates of the

County were to form a committee and meet every Wednesday and

Saturday in the Grand Jury Chamber of the Shire Hall, for the purpose

of corresponding with the several subdivisions, the Lord Lieutenant, the

General commanding, and the Commissary on all points requiring

explanation. Major Freeman was Comm issary for the Eastern District,

Edward Harvey Grigson, Esq., was Central Commissary, and Mr.

Charles Lay was Clerk to the General Meetings.

On the 1st of August, 1803, a meeting, convened by the mayor,

was held at the Town Hall, at which the amended Act then lately

GREAT YARMOUTH

107

passed, "to enable the King more effectually to provide for the defence

and security of the realm during the present war, and for indemnifying

persons who might suffer in their property, by such measures as might

be necessary for that purpose; and to enable his majesty more

effectually and speedily to exercise his ancient and undoubted

prerogative in requiring the military service of his liege subjects in case

of invasion of the realm," was read, and the clauses relating to the

establishment of the people in classes and the benefits held out to

Volunteer Corps considered; and such persons as were desirous of

coming forward for the defence of their country and the security and

happiness of civilized society were invited to enrol themselves

conformably to the regulations of the Act, and under such, officers as

were then submitted to them.

In 1808 the several Volunteer Corps were formed into one regiment

of "Volunteer Infantry," or Local Militia, and placed under the

command of Colonel Gould,* who had under him the following officers

(viz.) —Lieut.-Col. Paget, Major Tolmé, Capts. Isaac Preston

(afterwards Major), Samuel Bell, John Goate Fisher, Robert Cory, jun.,

Edmund Preston, and John Shelly; Lieutenants Nathaniel Palmer, John

Sayers, Richard Miller, James Bracey, Pexall Forster, Robert Baas, John

Freame Ranney, Robert Wall, E. S. Ommanney, John George Thomas,

and John Bracey; Ensigns Joseph Cowlan, William Steward, James

Black, James Jenner, John Fisher Costerton, and Fisher Watson; f

Chaplain, the Rev. Richard Turner; Adjutant, S. H. Aldred; Quarter-

master, William Roe; Surgeon, John Smith. J In 1805, being then 500

strong, they were reviewed by General Milner.

* In 1806 the officers presented Col. Gould with a testimonial of the high sense they

entertained of the zeal, judgment, and attention which he had uniformly shewn in forming

and disciplining the regiment, and of the gratification which they had experienced in

serving under his command. This force (sometimes called the third East Norfolk) was

disbanded at the peace. See vol, I , p. 286, and vol. ii., p. 197.

f He died at Brighton in 1873, aged 84, and bequeathed legacies of 19 guineas each

to the Yarmouth Hospital and Sailors' Home. See vol. i., p. 377.

t The corporation, "highly impressed with the zeal and public spirit of the officers

and gentlemen composing the Yarmouth Volunteer Infantry," begged their acceptance of

a pair of colours, "as a testimony of the sense the corporation entertained of their

promptitude in stepping forward at this alarming crisis in defence of our invaluable

constitution."

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A body of Sea Fencibles had been raised by government,

answering in some measure to the present Naval Reserve. In 1803 Capt.

Tremlett was appointed to the command; and took up his residence in

Yarmouth.

Troops of mounted volunteers were raised in Norfolk in 1794 (vol.

i, p. 263), and, being principally farmers riding their own horses, were

called ''Yeomanry." ''They may not do much, in case of invasion," said

Lord Townshend, "but they will prevent a great deal," alluding to the

revolutionary principles which were then being propagated. In 1798

some volunteer cavalry were raised under the name of the "Yarmouth

Gentlemen and Yeomanry,'' in which corps Mr. Richard Ferrier, sen.,

held a commission as Cornet. In 1803 E. K. Lacon, Esq., was appointed

to the command of the "Yarmouth Yeomanry Cavalry," having Samuel

Tolver for lieutenant, and Mark Waters for cornet. In 1824 Richard

Perrier, jun., was appointed cornet.

The following song, composed by Mr. James Kerr of Yarmouth,

was addressed to the volunteers:—

Come, follow-soldiers, now attend,

This is a theme to me most dear;

With patience listen, -whilst a friend

Describes a British Volunteer.

The love of freedom fires his breast,

There reigns for ever uncontrolled;

Taught by great blessings long possessed,

By him more valued far than gold.

With equal laws supremely blest ;

A King that seeks his people's good;

Religion that has stood the test

Of infidelity's dark brood.

These, fellow-soldiers, are his prop;

These raise his native courage high;

For these he takes his musket up,

Or girds his sword upon his thigh.

And should that tyrant stain'd with blood,

Who helpless nations over-runs;

By whom, are rul'd with iron rod,

Batavia's and Helvetia's sons,

GREAT YARMOUTH

109

T he next road, commencing at the south end of St. Peter's Plain and

running straight to the beach, is called Lancaster Road. The site "was

previously occupied by ropemakers' laying grounds," which were

purchased by the Town Council.

Upon most of these roads may be heard, on the 5th of August, the cry

of "Pray remember the grotto" but few probably know that in these grottos

made of oyster shells, and lighted within by a votive candle, we have a

memorial of the world-renowned Shrine of St. James of Compostella.* In

1428 the ship Falcon, Robert Boner, master, sailed from Yarmouth with

sixty persons on pilgrimage to this Shrine at Santiago in Spain, which

became vastly enriched by the offerings of a continuous crowd of votaries,

until, as Molina bitterly exclaimed, "the damnable doctrines of the accursed

Luther diminished the number of wealthy English pilgrims, and greatly

lessened the gains of the monks". In 1434 the ship Peter of Yarmouth,

Richard Russell, master, sailed for the same destination with twenty

pilgrims. In consequence of the perils attendant upon a pilgrimage to the

Holy Land, which country the Crusaders had been unable to wrest from the

hands of the Saracens, the Pope ordained that a visit to St. Iago should be of

equal virtue; and thenceforth a visit to Spain became irresistible to all who

had money and leisure, or were under a vow. The vessels employed were

small and much crowded; some receiving on board a pilgrim for every ton

of measurement besides the crew. "Going pilgrimage" was one of the

characteristic features of the 15th century; pomp and jollity, as at present to

some extent, being often blended with religious feeling. Those intending to

embark at Yarmouth came to the town with banners flying and singing

chants; and before embarking they took an oath

* Campus Stella, because a star directed where the body of the saint was concealed.

As early as the reign of Henry II., Maurice de Barsham of East Barsham in Norfolk

proceeded on this pilgrimage; and in 1316 Sir John Audley was captured on his passage

there. Reliquiae Antiquae, vol. i., p. 2.

Dare to fulfil his idle boast.

To bring his band of ruffians here;

On every point of Albion's coast

He'll meet—a British Volunteer.

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PERLUSTRATION OF

before the "bailiffs not to divulge the secrets of the kingdom, and then

received a blessing from the priests.* They returned from this pilgrimage

singing and rejoicing ; and an escallop shell marked those who had been

to St. Jago. f

Between York Road & Lancaster Road, adjoining St. George's Road

towards the east, and occupying the site of a ropemaker's laying ground,

is the C HURCH OF S T . Johns', erected in 1857 for the special benefit of

beachmen and sailors. Behind are some houses with cut-flint fronts,

called St. John's Terrace; the southward most of which was originally

occupied by the Rev. Frederick William Johnson, the first incumbent. 1

He was the second son of Colonel Johnson, of Walbury, Essex; and died

in 1859, unmarried, leaving an endowment for the church he had

laboured to establish. t The south aisle was added in memory of Miss

Mary Maurice, as has been mentioned (vol. ii, p. 134.) Behind the

church are schools with a reading room. Both church and schools were

erected from designs by Mr. J. H, Hakewell.§ In this church there is a

window of stained glass in memory of Robert Bensly Davie,

Commander of the Cape Mail Steamer Saxon, who died suddenly in

1868 on the arrival of the vessel in England, aged 37.||

* They were reminded of the prudence of asking a will and of not forgetting the

chinch. In 1439 William Meckilfelde Henham in Suffolk, " proposing towards the Holy

Land," made his will whereby among numerous bequests of a like nature he gave "To the

Augustine Friars at Yarmouth" xiijs. iiijd."

f "When, in 1809, Ney seized the shrine, the statue of the saint, supposed to have

been of gold, proved to be brass gilt, with spurious diamond eyes.

t The subsequent incumbents have been—

1859. The Rev. A. B. Crosse, afterwards Hector of Kessingland, Suffolk.

1864. The Rev. William Thomas Harrison, son of the Rev. T. T. Harrison,

Rector of Thorpe Mortens, Suffolk, to which living the son succeeded.

1968. The Rev. R. J. Dundas, afterwards Rector of Albiuy, near Guildford.

1871. The Rev. G. Humphrey, previously curate of Ellingham, near

Attleborough, and now Rector of Belaugh, Norfolk.

1873. The Rev. Rowland Vectis Barker.

§ The use of the holly at Christmas as a church decoration has been adopted in this

and other new churches with increased vigour. Dean Stanley, when preaching in the

Catacombs at Rome, says this religious observance has come down from, the times of the

heathens, who suspended green boughs and holly about their houses, that the fairies and

spirits of the woods might find shelter under them.

|| He was a son of the late Mr. William Davie. (See vol. i., p. 289.)

1 The last vicar to inhabit this property was the Rev Burton in 1979. Subsequently the

first three properties in the terrace, became an old peoples home.

GREAT YARMOUTH

111

The next road, running from the town to the beach, is now called

St. Peter's Road, from the church already mentioned; and was

previously named White Lion Road, from the old public house with that

sign (vol. ii., p. 372) , and also Jetty Road, because it led direct to the

Jetty. At No. 45 resided James Gunton Cannell, previously troop

Serjeant-Major in the 20th Light Dragoons. He was present at the battle

of Waterloo; and having served "with zeal and honesty for eighteen

years was discharged in 1817". He died in 1956, having bequeathed £25

to the Fisherman's Hospital.

Another road led from a gate, called the Little Gate, to a public

well called the South Well. This road, now called Alma Road

commences from King Street, and runs eastward until it joins Duncan

Place.

The last road extends from the South Gate to the South Denes, and

is called South Denes Road. It is the principal approach to the town in

that direction.

A narrow and irregular road, called Mariners Lane, branches off to

the east, and passing the houses and other buildings adjacent to and

outside the town wall emerges at a point where stands the Friars'

Tower.

Another road, of ample width, called Queen ’ s Road, also branches

off to the east and forms a junction with the south end of Nelson Road.

South of Mariners' Lane stands M ARINER s' C HAPEL , erected in

1813 upon ground belonging to W. D. Palmer, Esq., by whose will it

was devised to trustees.*

Tower Road, which now forms a junction between Blackfriars

Road and Queen's Road, was formed through ground formerly

belonging to Ambrose Palmer, Esq., and by him used as a timber yard.

At the south-west corner of Havelock Road, where it joins Queen's

Road, is a public house called the Queen's Arms, which was kept by

Joseph Priestly, Pay-Serjeant of the East Norfolk Regiment of Militia,

who died by his own hand in 1871. He had been a private in a troop of

cavalry, and as such was one of the first men who landed in the Crimea.

Being immediately sent on outpost duty, he was engaged reconnoitring

the position of the Russians, when he had his left foot smashed by a

* A considerable extent of ground, including the site of this chapel, was granted to

Mr. W. D. Palmer, father of the testator, in 1784.

112

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

round shot fired from oue of the enemy's batteries; and was one of the

first wounded of the invading force. His foot was amputated on the

field, and he was sent home to the hospital at Yarmouth, on leaving

which he took the above-mentioned house. He was supplied with a

mechanical foot by order of Queen Victoria, to whom he had been

presented after landing in England.

Further west, facing Queen's Road, is a chapel erected in 1867 by

the Primitive Methodists. Immediately opposite, on the south side of

Queen's Road, is the Royal Naval Hospital; to the west of which is the

CHURCH OF S T . J AMES , which, at present, is uncompleted. The site being

nearly square, the church had to be adapted to it; and Mr. J. P. Seddon,

the architect., has designed a vast Greek cross, formed by the nave,

chancel, and transept, each 33 feet wide. The rectangular form is

completed by aisles parallel to the nave and chancel, the tower and spire

standing out in projection at the north-west angle. The whole area is

covered in, with but four internal supporting columns, the arches

springing from which are unusually wide, so that there will be scarcely

any interruption to sight or sound internally. Accommodation is

provided for 1,200 persons on the floor. A temporary Mission church,

constructed of iron, was opened on this site in 1861. The first stone of

St. James' Church was laid on the 26th of May, 1869 1 , by Dr. Goulburn 2 ,

Dean of Norwich. The first minister of St. James' Church was the Rev.

Wm. Dawson, who was succeeded by the Rev. George Merriman.

Samuel Cockerill, residing at Every Terrace, York Road, who died in

1873, bequeathed £500 to the building fund. To the south of the church

National Schools have been erected. They were commenced in 1868,

and completed in 1872.

Adjoining the above buildings to the west are Laying and Spinning

Grounds, set apart for ropemakers when dispossessed of their former

holdings, which had become inconvenient to the inhabitants as they

crossed some of the principal roads and greatly interfered with the

traffic.

T HE appearance of the modern town has been entirely changed by the

construction of the M ARINE P ARADE and D RIVE , which form a sea-board of

unrivalled excellence. It commences at the east end of

1 The St James Church, closed and empty for about 15 years, has been converted as a day

center and community center, but after only some three years or so of use is no longer

open on a daily basis (2008).

2 The Very Rev Edward Meyrick Goulburn D.D., produced a large and very fine work,

published 1876, entitled The Ancient Sculptures in the Roof of Norwich Cathedral, to

which is added, a History of the See of Norwich, from its foundation, to the dissolution of

the Monasteries.

GREAT YARMOUTH.

113

Cemetery Road, and extends to the Haven's Mouth, a distance of about

three miles, and there forms a junction with a road continued along the

west side of the South Denes.

The ground heretofore waste, lying to the west of the Marine Drive

north, has been designed by the Town Council for building purposes,

according to a plan approved by the Lords of the Treasury, The first

square, called Norfolk Square, has been laid out; and the first three

houses on the north side have been erected by Mr. John Clowes,

solicitor.

The Town Battery stood immediately north of the present

approach, to the Britannia Pier. In 1782, when it became necessary to

place the town in a state of defence, it was debated whether the old

walls and towers could not be repaired for that purpose, but this was

deemed to be impracticable, and instead, batteries of earthwork were

erected close to the sea shore. It is very remarkable that the town was

even then very jealous of any interference by government; and the

corporation having voted £100, the inhabitants themselves entered into

a subscription to defray the expense. The Town Battery was dismantled

in 1859, and the site, "by an arrangement with government, was given

up to the town.*

Immediately opposite the east end of Regent Road is the

B RITANNIA P IER , erected by a public company in 1857. It originally

extended 60 feet further into the sea, but a ship having broken through

the pier in a storm, so much of it was removed. A similar accident took

place in 1868, but on this occasion the breach was repaired by Mr. J. J.

Isaac, the present proprietor. f

* In 1795 Sir T. H. Page came to Yarmouth to perfect a plan of constructing forges

for sending out red-hot balls, or "roasted potatoes" as they were called by the sailors.

f This pier has suffered much from a worm appropriately called the Teredo.

When carried by the tide against any obstacle like a wooden, pile, this creature

attaches itself thereto, makes an inroad, and never again leaves the timber, in which

it continues to make the most intricate burrowing and windings. Various methods

have been used to render timber impervious or distasteful to these destructive creatures.

At the Wellington Pier the piles were saturated according to Bethell's system in an

exhausted receiver, and subjected to such pressure as insured the absorption of about

ten pounds weight of creosote or oil of coal tar, by each cubic foot of timber; and up

to this time these piles have been entirely preserved from attack by the Teredo

or any other destructive marine animal, although mussels and seaweed hang about

114

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

The first range of houses to the south is called Britannia Terrace,

erected upon waste ground taken of the town council, and commenced

in 1848, No. 2 was at one time the property and residence of Mr. A. W.

Morant. C.E., F.S.A., F.G.S.*

No. 11 is the residence of R.H. Inglis Palgrave, Esq., son of the late

Sir Francis Palgrave. (see. vol. i., p. 308.) He is a member of the

Council of the Statistical Society of London. In 1871 he published The

Local Taxation of Great Britain and Ireland; and in 1878, Notes on

Banking in Great Britain and Ireland, Sweden Denmark, and

Hamburgh* which in 1874 he received from the King of Sweden the

Order of Vasa.

No. 16, Britannia Terrace, is the property and occasional residence

of Richard Henry Wade Walpole, Esq. f

them. The Teredo is a long white worm, and its process whilst boring is very curious.

Being itself a very soft creature it encases itself as it proceeds with, a cellareous covering,

and it is said that Brunel learned from this fact how he could safely bore the great tunnel

below the Thames. The Teredo always makes his tunnels regular, and never cuts or

crosses into that of his neighbour. If by accident it works its way into a tunnel made by

another Teredo, certain death follows, as it can go no further.

* He was the first Town Surveyor appointed by the Local Board of Health; which

position he relinquished for a similar appointment at Norwich; and the latter for a like

appointment at Leeds. In the above house he collected an extensive and valuable

antiquarian and heraldic library. Mr. Morant edited from p. 696 the Ordinary of British

Armorials, commenced by Mr. Papworth. The annexed engraving is a good adaptation of

a monogram for the purposes of a book plate. The name is found at Norwich in the 17th

century, Richard Morant of that city issued a token with his name on the obverse, and a

neck whisk and two shuttles on the reverse. He, his wife, and four children all died of the

plague in one week of July, 1666, and were buried in the Churchyard of St. Peter

Mancroft.

f The Hon. Richard Walpole, third son of the first Lord Walpole of Wolterton 1 and

nephew of Sir Robert Walpole, married Margaret, daughter of Sir Joshua Vanneck and

sister of the first Lord Huntingfield, by whom he had three sons who all died s.p., and an

only daughter, Mary Rachel, who married the Rev. Ashton Wade, and by him had an only

son, the owner of the above-mentioned house, who married Harriet, sister of Charles Lord

Faversham and of the late Thomas Buncombe, Esq., formerly M.P. for Finsbury, In 1844,

on the issue male of his maternal, grandfather becoming extinct, he obtained the royal

permission to assume the additional surname of Walpole. The Hon. Richard Walpole was

educated at the Norwich school, and went to sea in 1745 on hoard the Augusta East India

ship, commanded by the Hon. Augustus Townshend, who died the next year at Batavia.

When in command of the

1 At Wolterton, Lord Walpole has in his library, a unique expanded set of Palmer’s

Continuation of Manship.

GREAT YARMOUTH

115

Vice-Admiral Lovell, K.H., died at his lodgings in Britannia

Terrace in 1859, aged 72; He was one of the few remaining officers

who had served under Nelson at Trafalgar. In St. John's Church there

are some wood carvings by Miss Lovell, the admiral's daughter.

No. 19 was erected by J. L. Cufaude, Esq., (vol. ii., p. 270), and

was lately the property and residence of C. H. Chamberlain, Esq., who

filled the offices of Coroner and Clerk of the County Court with

marked ability, and died here in 1873, aged 51, and was buried at

Catton.

The next range of houses, known as Ansell’s Buildings, was

erected early in the present century by Mr. Ansell of Norwich. They

were the first lodging-houses on Yarmouth beach.

Further south, forming the north-east corner of Trafalgar Place, is

Trafalgar House, erected by the late Capt. Wm. Wynn Eyton, R.N.,

divided into three residences, one of which he occupied for some

years.*

At the opposite or south-east corner of Trafalgar Place was the

Holkham Tavern 1 , long a "house of call" for a company of boatmen,

whose lofty "look-out" in the rear was taken down in 1871. Before the

building of the two Piers, which have caused the sand on the beach

Houghton East India ship in 1756, on returning to England, accompanied by two other

merchant, vessels, the Suffolk and the Godolphin (the three being valued with their rich

cargoes at £500,000), he beat off the French man-of-war L'Illustre and the frigate La

Balain, for which he obtained great credit, and was presented by the East India Company

with a piece of plate of the value of 100 guineas, with £3,000 to divide between the three

ships. Retiring from the service, his house was for many years resorted to by the highest

circles of fashion. The Hon. Richard Walpole was returned to Parliament for Great

Yarmouth in 1768, and again in 1770 and 1774; and died in 1798, aged 69. Mr. Wade

Walpole has restored the Parish Church at Freethorpe and erected almshouses there, where

he has an estate. See P. C, p. 221; Coxe's Memoirs, p. 287; Naval Chronicle, vol. 14, p.

89.

* He was the fourth son of Hope Eyton, Esq., of Leeswood in Flintshire, by Margaret

his wife, daughter of Robert Wynn, Esq., of Tower in Flintshire. He bore az., on a bend

arg., a lion pass, sa., Entering the royal navy at an early age he was present, under Nelson,

at the glorious victory of Trafalgar, and annually on the 21st of October it was his custom

to assemble around his hospitable board his personal friends, including such officers who

happened to be in Yarmouth and who had taken a part in that famous sea-fight. They

dropped off one by one, until at last the giver of the feast himself died. He was for some

years Lieutenant of the Coast Guard at Yarmouth. Pedigrees of the family will be found

in Meyrick’s Visitations of Wales.

1 For at least ten years the Holkham Hotel has been empty and abandoned. It was thriving in the

1970’s and functioned as an hotel through the 1980’s. It became run down and was boarded up.

Permission was sought to convert it to another “slot machine palace”, but this was refused. After

more than ten years as a derelict eyesore, permission was given to convert it to apartments,

completed 2006.

116

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

to accumulate, and prior to the construction of the Marine Drive, the sea

occasionally reached this house, and on one occasion the front was

undermined by the waves and fell. The old house having been entirely

pulled down in 1874, the present building has been erected on the site.

The next house, having an enclosed garden to the south, was

erected early in the present century by Mr. Francis Maryland, previously

of Cheltenham. It became known as "Berners' House," because it was

purchased by the late Colonel Wilson of Didlington in Norfolk, in

whose favor the abeyance of the ancient Barony of B ERNERS was

terminated.* On his decease this property passed, to his brother, the

Rev. Henry Wilson, who succeeded to the title. Subsequently "Berners'

House" was for some time occupied by Cuthbert Collingwood Hall,

Esq., who died at his seat, Collingwood Court, Trimley, near Windsor

(which house he commenced and left unfinished), in 1859, aged 49. f A

succeeding tenant for some years of " Berners' House" was Miss

Girling. t 1

* Berners being a barony by writ descended to heirs general. In 1743 the title fell

into abeyance, which was terminated in 1832; resting then, as it was asserted, between

Colonel Wilson and a Parish Clerk. The former claimed to be entitled through his

grandmother, Elizabeth, eldest daughter and co-heir of John Knyvet, who was descended

from Edmund Knyvet, Serjeant Porter to Henry VIII., and Jane his wife, who was

daughter and sole heir of John Bourchier, Lord Berners, who died in 1532, s.p.m. The

latter peer was descended from William Bourchier, Earl of Eu in Normandy, who married

Anne, daughter and eventually sole heir of Thomas of Woodstock, sixth son of Edward

III.

f He married Sarah, daughter of G. L. N. Collingwood, Esq., of Hawkshurst, Kent,

by his wife, who was one of the two daughters and co-heirs of Admiral Lord

Collingwood, who died in 1810, s.p.m.

t This lady is descended maternally from the B ULLOCKS of Shipdham in Norfolk,

who bore the same arms as the Bullocks of Berkshire— gu., a chev. erm. betw. three bulls'

heads caboshed arg., armed or,; and for a crest, five lockaber axes, handles or., blades

ppr., bound with an oscarf gu., tassels or. Thomas Bullock of Southburgh, Norfolk,

married Catherine, daughter and sole heir of John Berney, Esq., of Lynn, by his second

wife, Catherine, second daughter of George Townshend, Esq., of Wretham, by Mary his

wife, daughter of Sir Robert Baldock, Knt., Recorder of

1 The former Lord Berner’s House in the 1890’s was a restaurant and refreshment

rooms, known as “Winton’s Assembly Rooms”, covered in advertising signs, much as

seen on Marine Parade now. It boasted dancing every night, also had afternoon tea and

cakes, a grill room and a “creamery”. There was a lavatory built onto the north end. The

house was burned down in a fire on 5 th September 1901. It had boasted a fine ballroom,

and splendid old fashioned public bar. See RRH.

GREAT YARMOUTH

117

The next group of buildings form, the C OAST G UARD S TATION ,

comprising residences for the chief officer and his men, erected upon

open ground sold to government by the town council.

Inconsequence of high duties and the close proximity of foreign

ports, smuggling had in the early part of the present century assumed

gigantic proportions. The custom-house officers and the cruisers were

unable to cope with that which, had become a regular trade. On the east

coast it was carried on with great audacity. In 1745 a gang of smugglers

entered a house at Beccles, pulled a man out of bed, whipped him

barbarously, forced, him out of doors, tied him on a horse, and rode off

with him. In 1768 a body of smugglers attacked the custom-house

officers here, killed Peter Haslip, a tide surveyor, dangerously wounded

several others, and carried off a large quantity of goods. Although a

reward of £100 was offered, the offenders were never discovered. At

last the government was roused to put down these enormities by

guarding the coast in an efficient manner. In 1822 a system of blockade

was established, and in the first two years 52 vessels and 380 boats

engaged in illicit traffic were captured on the coasts of the United

Kingdom, and eventually by these means, attended however by an

enormous expense, smuggling has become all but suppressed.

The first Inspecting Commander of the Coast Guard at Yarmouth

was Capt. Wm. Deane, who was succeeded by the following officers

:— 1823, Capt. G. W. Hayes; 1824, Capt. Edward Sparshott (who in

1827 was appointed Deputy Inspector General); 1826, Capt. J. J.

Onslow; 1829, Capt. C. F. Annesley; 1830, Capt. Charles Pearson (see

vol. ii., p. 106); 1835, Capt. (now Vice-Admiral) Spencer Smyth; 1837,

Capt. afterwards Sir John Kingcome, K.O.B. (who died in 1871, aged

77); 1837, Capt. S. F. Harmer (see vol. ii., p. 391); 1840, Capt. Pulling;

Yarmouth. The last heir male of the above family was the Rev, Colby Bullock, who died

in 18l7 leaving four daughters his co-heirs, the youngest of whom married the Rev. Wm.

Girling of Seaming in Norfolk. The arms of Girling of Norfolk are arg., on a bend per

pale gu. and az ., betw. two cotises engrailed on the outside sa., three fleurs-de-lis or.

(Papworth's Ordinary, p. 266); and for a crest, a demi-griffen az ., winged or., holding

betw. his paws a fleur-de-lis per pale gu., and az., and there is a pedigree of this family in

the Norfolk Visitation, p. 202. They appear to have become extinct before William

Girling of Stradbroke in Suffolk migrated to East Dereham in 1723.

118

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

1843, Capt. (afterwards Vice-Admiral) Jerningham; 1847, Capt. F. A.

Ellis; 1852, Capt. R. S. Smith; and 1854, Capt. Norman; after which

time the service ceased to be under the direction of the Board of

Customs. The appointments made by the admiralty have been :—.1855,

Capt Crewe-Head;* 1856, Capt. Jack Murray; f 1857, Capt. Thomas

Davis; 1861, Capt. Frederick Pelham Warren; 1862, Capt, Bevan; 1865,

Capt. Chimmo; 1865, Capt. James; 1868, Capt. Cholmeley;§ 1871,

Capt. Annesley; and in 1873, Capt. Solly. Capt. (now Rear-Admiral)

Sherard Osborn held the appointment for very a short time.

Adjoining the Coastguard Station to the south is the Royal

Standard, originally a fisherman's cote, and subsequently a house of call

for a company of boatmen, who possess a lofty look-out. It has recently

been greatly enlarged.

Most of the public houses adjoining the Marine Parade had their

origin in small hovels, built on the sandy waste near the sea shore for

the accommodation of fishermen and boatmen. These buildings were

* Offley Malcolm Crewe-Read Esq., of Llandinar in Montgomeryshire, a Deputy-

Lieutenant and Justice of the Peace for that County, of which he was High Sheriff in

1870, is descended from the Crewes of Cheshire, who flourished in the reign of Henry

III., and of which family was Sir Ralph Crewe, who married the heiress of the Clippesbys

of Clippesby. He is also descended from the Reads of Rook Castle, Carmarthenshire, who

settled in Montgomery in 1670, and purchased Llandinar Hall in 1688. Capt. Crewe-Read

bears quarterly, 1st and 4 th ., a griffin sejant or.; and 2nd and 3rd, az., a lion ramp. arg.

Pedigrees of Crewe will be found in Ormerod's Cheshire, Nichols' Leicestershire, and

Nicholas' County Families of Wales.

f Eldest son of the Hon. Granville Murray, fourth son of John, fourth Earl of

Dunmore, by the Lady Charlotte his wife, daughter of the Earl of Galloway. He was

therefore nephew of the Lady Augusta Murray, who married at Rome, in 1793, Prince

Augustus Frederick, afterwards Duke of Sussex, which marriage was dissolved as being

in contravention of the Royal Marriage Act,

t Son of Admiral Warren. When serving as a Lieutenant on board H.M.S. Fox in

1846, then in Madras Roads, a man fell from the mizen-topsail yard into the sea. Lieut.

Warren immediately sprang into the water, although the usual heavy swell was running at

the time, and sustained the man until a boat picked them up. Capt. Warren invented a very

useful and ingenious method of cooking, which was adopted by government, and he now

holds the appointment of Superintendent of Cookery to the Royal Navy.

§ Pedigrees of Cholmeley will be found in the publications of the Surtees Society.

GREAT YARMOUTH

11 0

erected without any grant or lease from the corporation, and were treated as

chattels real and passed as personal estate. They were in fact held on sufferance

until long user gave a title, and ultimately in some cases a freehold was

acquired. They were called C OTES , and being surrounded by the "belongings" of

their inhabitants had usually a picturesque appearance.*

The next building is the L IFEBOAT H OUSE 1 , in which the lifeboats are

stored in summer; for in winter they are usually on the beach to be in instant

readiness when required. Yarmouth was one of the first places in England at

which lifeboats were established; and in Yarmouth some of the best lifeboats

have been built. When Admiral Jerningham had the command of the coast

guard here, he took great interest in their encouragement and management; and

upon one occasion all the lifeboats along the coast were assembled at a Regatta,

by which means an opportunity was afforded of discussing their several merits.

Defoe in his Tour (vol. i., 8th edit., 1778) describes the coast north of

Yarmouth as " particularly noted for being one of the most dangerous and fatal

to sailors in all Britain." Ships meeting with a north-east gale are embayed and

driven on shore; and he mentions a melancholy instance in 1692 when 200 sail

of light colliers went out of Yarmouth

* See the above wood-cut, and also the annexed plate etched by Mrs. Bowyer

Vaux, and published by her permission,

1 In 1977, the lifeboat house was commonly known as the “Monkey House”. It was a

kind of small zoo, with monkeys on show at the front to entice in the customers. It was

owned and run by Henry Cole and his family, who also kept a block of flats at the end of

Nelson Road South, and also the “Joyland” children’s amusements, sited immediately

south of the Britannia Pier. The monkey house also housed various snakes, crocodiles,

tarantulas and so on. Inside was a tunnel and narrow passageways winding around the

building, up and down past glass cages, housing the various creatures. David Cole, son of

Henry and Ruth Cole, still keeps the Joyland amusements, but the former lifeboat shed

was sold off, to become a “virtual reality” experience ride.

120

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

Roads with a fair wind but soon after were "taken short with a storm of

wind at north-east." Some tacked and got safely back, but of the rest,

about 140 sail, were driven on shore and dashed to pieces. At the same

unhappy juncture, a fleet of laden ships coming from the north were

involved in the same ruin, as also were some vessels laden with corn

which had left Lynn and Wells bound for Holland, so that on the whole

above 200 ships and more than 1000 seamen "were lost in the disaster

of that one miserable night, very few escaping."

Defoe says (p. 59) "I went by land from Yarmouth, N. W. along the

shore towards Cromer. I was surprised to see that the farmers and

country people had scarce a barn, shed, stable, or pales in their yards

and gardens, or a hogstye, but what was built of old planks, beams,

wales, and timber, the deplorable wrecks of ships, and ruins of mariners

and merchants' fortunes; and in some places were whole yards filled,

and piled up very high with the same stuff, laid up for the same building

purposes.'' The fraudulent appropriation of wreck is now effectually

prevented by the vigilance of the Board of Trade and their officers.*

It will be remembered that, according to Defoe, the ship in which

Robinson Crusoe first embarked was driven out of Yarmouth Roads in

a storm and foundered of Winterton, and that having escaped in a boat

he landed near the light-house, and walked thence to Yarmouth.

Mrs. Somerville in her Recollections mentions that her father,

Admiral Sir William Fairfax, "a gallant gentleman, who distinguished

himself greatly at the battle of Camperdown," was once caught in a

storm in Yarmouth Roads, f

eath.

f “ My father after having done all that was possible for the safety of the ship, went

to bed. His cabin door did not shut closely, from the rolling of the ship, and the man who

was sentry that night told my mother, years afterwards, that when he saw my father on his

knees praying, he thought it would soon he all over with them; then seeing him go to bed

and full asleep, he felt no more fear. In the morning the coast was strewed with

wrecks”.—p. 7.

* Collins in his Miscellanies, p. 98, asserts that in former times the Cornish men

were accustomed to tie a horse's leg, with a lantern fastened to his tail, in order that it

might imitate the motion of a light on board a ship at sea, and so allure vessels to their

destruction. By the 1 Victoria, c. 89, exhibiting false lights is made penal and punishable

by d

GREAT YARMOUTH

121

In 1799 Lord Brougham, being then twenty-two years of age,

returning from Denmark in a timber-laden ship, was in danger of his

life off this coast. After taking a Lowestoft pilot on board, the vessel

struck on a sand "a few miles from shore," the rudder was carried away,

and the ship made so much water that she was only saved from sinking

by her cargo. We made signals of all kinds,'' says Brougham, "and fired

guns to make them put off boats for our assistance; but the sea had

increased, and the only one they tried was swamped! It was "no small

relief to us when a Newcastle collier came in sight, and towed us into

Harwich."*

In 1800 the Mastiff gun-brig was wrecked on the Cockle Sand.

Upwards of thirty of her crew were saved by the exertions of the

Winterton men, to whom the Admiralty awarded 100 guineas, and

presented Abel King and William Pile with 25 guineas each.

Before the use of lifeboats, the Yarmouth beach men displayed

great intrepidity in going off in their fine yawls to the rescue of ship-

wrecked mariners. It is impossible here to enumerate the many gallant

services rendered by them; but their daring and humanity were never

more signally displayed than on Sunday, the 26th of January, 1845.

During a heavy gale from the north-west, five ships were seen from the

shore to strike on the Scroby Sand. A fearful sea was raging, and it was

known that, these vessels must soon go to pieces, in which case their

crews would inevitably perish. Four yawls, belonging to as many

companies, were immediately launched and proceeded to the wrecks for

the sole purpose of saving life, for there was no hope of salvage. The

crews of four vessels, amounting to thirty-six men, were rescued and

landed in safety. Thirteen men belonging to the Star Company again put

off for the purpose of saving the crew of the remaining vessel then on

the Scroby. As they neared her the boatmen saw the waves breaking

over the ship; the wind then blowing a

* Life and times of Henry Lord Brougham, vol. i., p. 221. Many years afterwards a

brother of Lord Brougham when in Italy made a large collection of drawings and

engravings, many of them of a peculiar character. The ship was lost, and this collection

was dispersed by the winds and waves, many of them being picked up at sea or cast on

shore. They were spread out to dry in some large rooms at the Naval Hospital, where the

public were admitted to see them.— Meo periculo.

122

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

heavy gale. Being unable, to reach her they let go their anchor and

veered down to her but as they approached the disabled vessel a heavy

sea hurled their yawl against her and dashed the yawl to pieces. This

sad occurrence having been witnessed from the shore, the lifeboat was

immediately manned and put to sea, and having reached the wreck six

of the boatmen were saved, but the other seven with the whole of the

ship's crew perished.*

Lionel Lukin, a London, coachbuilder, born at Dunmow, was the

inventor of the principle upon which L IFEBOATS have been built. He

obtained a patent in 1785; but in 1789 Henry Greathead, a boat-builder

of Shields, carried out a similar idea in bo practice, and obtained a gold

medal from the Society of Arts; and before 1804 thirty-one lifeboats had

been built. The Duke of Northumberland offered a prize of 100 guineas

for the invention of a lifeboat, having, among other indispensible

qualifications, the power of righting itself at once, in case of an upset.

Nearly three hundred plans and models were sent in, and the prize was

awarded to James Beeching of Great Yarmouth. The duke subscribed

100 guineas towards the building of a boat upon this principle, which,

when completed, was purchased by the Commissioners of Ramsgate

Harbour, where it has done good service. In five years this boat was the

means of saving the lives, of eighty persons. Ultimately the lifeboat

suggested by Beeching, and improved upon by Peake, a master

shipwright at Woolwich Dockyard, has become the prototype of nearly

all the lifeboats which are now stationed round the stormy coasts of

Great Britain. f

The Coast Guard have charge of the mortars and rockets used for

the purpose of obtaining a communication with stranded vessels. The

* Mention has already been made of the numerous sands, which surround Yarmouth

Roads, upon which the carcase of many a tall ship lies "buried." Sailors are apt to give

quaint names to localities. Thus the portion of sea which lies between the Scroby and the

Cross Sands, and from which there is no proper channel, is called the "Barley Pightle," -

while that nearer the shore, protected by the Cockle Sand, is called "Abraham's Bosom.'''

Hasborough Gat, the scene of so many disasters, is designated the " Devil's Throat."

f The presentation of lifeboats is a pleasing illustration of the munificent

benevolence of the present ago. The entire cost of the lifeboat establishment at Corton

was lately defrayed by Mrs. Davis of Clapham, in memory of her husband.

GREAT YARMOUTH

123

latter, from being more portable, are now chiefly used. When fired the

rocket carries with it a fine line, like a thread fastened to a bird's leg.

The crew of the ship seize this line when it falls over the rigging, and

fasten to it a larger rope, which is dragged on shore by those on the

beach. A communication is thus established between the ship and the

land, and the rope when drawn tight forms an inclined bridge. By means

of a pulley, or running knot, a basket is placed on it, into which the

wrecked people enter in turn, and it reaches the land by gravitation and

the manoeuvres of the men on shore.

So far back as 1769 the Society of Arts presented a silver medal to

John Winn of Great Yarmouth, shipbuilder, for his invention of a means

for saving lives of shipwrecked mariners and the cargoes of stranded

vessels, for which Winn obtained a patent. In the following year a ship

called the Flour Factor was driven on shore, and, the sea running so

high that no boat could live, Winn sent off his machine with eight men,

who saved both crew and cargo; and subsequently similar services were

performed by it.*

To the south of the lifeboat house was a red-brick building,

originally a fisherman's cote, which early in the last century belonged

to the Boult family. f It was taken down a few years since, and five

dwelling-houses have been erected on the site. J

* There is an engraving in the Library of the British Museum, which exhibits a

stranded ship on a lee shore, with the application of "Winn's Patent Machine for

preserving lives and goods". A man is seen coming on shore "in the machine." The

communication was effected by casting a line from the ship, supported by corks at every

six feet distance, and allowing it to float on shore, which of course could only be done

with a flowing tide.

f Some Russian troops, who landed here during the final struggle with France, were

taken to the above-mentioned building and thoroughly washed and cleansed before being

permitted to enter the town. The dirty habits of the Russians at that time were obnoxious

to the inhabitants, who were sometimes placed in partial darkness in consequence of the

oil being abstracted from the public lamps by the Russians, who drank up that lubricant.

In 1813, a sum of £200,000 was sent to Yarmouth in specie, under the charge of Colonel

Lowe, to be forwarded to the Baltic towards the relief of the Russians suffering from the

invasion of their country by the French.

j A mulberry tree which stood in the fore-court was removed by Mr. Salmon Palmer

to his garden at Gorleston, where it still flourishes (1875, but mulberry trees can live for

hundreds of years).

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The next building is the S AILORS ' H OME , or refuge for

Shipwrecked Mariners, erected in 1858 from, a design, by Morant,

chiefly through the exertions of G. S. Harcourt, Esq.* It occupies the

site of a building which was for many years used as - a Coast Guard

Station. Nearly 4,000 shipwrecked mariners have been admitted to this

admirable institution 1 since its establishment . f Truth is often stranger

than fiction, and marvellous are the events, which have occurred at sea

in the neighbourhood of Yarmouth. It is impossible in this work to give

more than a passing glance at a few instances.

The first great storm on this coast, of which we have any record, is

that which dispersed the French fleet in 1199, when engaged in bringing

over an army to aid King John. Roger of Wendover informs us that a

multitude of bodies were cast ashore, which so infected the air at

Yarmouth as to cause a sickness among the inhabitants.

A curious account of the loss of a Yarmouth vessel in 1643 is given

by Gilbert Blakhal, a Romish missionary priest, who, after describing

how the ship in which he was had contrived to get into the harbour of

Holy Island, goes on to say,—"A shippe of Yarmouth, following us

within a musket shott, could not enter, but did cast anchor the mater of

two hundreth paces from it, where she was brocken up in the night and

no man saved. The countrie people conveined next day to tak the

goodes which the sea had caat to the land, among which ther was a cast

full of castor hattes with gold hatte-bandes, for the whiche the Minister

of the Parishe, a Scotchman called Lindsay, and a gentle-man dwelling

nere did feight; and the minister did sore wound the gentleman.

Meanwhile the comon people did get away the cask and brak it, and

every one tak away what he could get, whilst Church and State fought

for it in vane. The shippe was a faire shippe; and before day it braken in

so smal pieces that ther was not so much as

* See vol. ii, p. 191. He married (first) Jessey, daughter of John Rolls, Esq., of the

Hendre, Monmouthshire. She died in Paris in 1842. There is a portrait of her.

f This institution is supported by voluntary subscriptions, donations, and legacies.

One of the latter amounting to £500, bequeathed by Miss Frances Cecilia Burton Forster

of Eythorne, Kent, on the death of the widow of Edward Downs, Esq., who, for a short

time, rented Clippesby Hall, was paid in 1872. In the same year Mr. Edward Fyson left by

will a legacy of £250.

1 The sailors’ home was still being used as such when Richard and Selena

Stockman were caretakers in 1906. It was there in that year that their daughter

Eleanor May Stockman, was born. Later they Lived at Dolly’s cottage in Deneside,

where they raised a large family, at which time Richard worked for Dr Shaw as a

driver. (See RRH).

GREAT YARMOUTH

125

a planke of her cast to land which, had fuly four feete in length. It was a

friteful spectable to sie the dead bodyes all broken by the force of the

tempest, which continued eight- and-forty hours."*

Ives in his Journal relates that in 1735 as Mr. John, Morley's katt +

was sailing before the wind with a strong gale, the ballast shifted and

the ship capsized. The crew got upon, her broadside and then cut away

the masts, upon which she rose so fast that a man and two boys slipped

off and were drowned. The rest of the crew remained at sea for fourteen

days in the helpless vessel before they were rescued by a Dutch dogger,

which fell in with them. In 1739 sixteen vessels were stranded between

Yarmouth and Kessingland, and all their crews were lost. In 1740 he

records that on the 2nd of November the "wind blew very hard, several

ships sunk in our roads, and dead corpses were washed ashore to the

number of fifteen or sixteen on our beach. Nov. 3.— "Ships continue

coming through our roads without their masts, and two or three bottom

upwards. The John sunk on the bar and every soul perished."

The tales that are told by shipwrecked mariners brought to this

Home would of themselves fill a volume. Alphonse Esguiros, the

French author, relates one which shall be repeated almost in his own

words. "On the 7th of November, 1859, a fishing smack was wrecked

on Easborough Sand. As the vessel settled down, the four men

composing the crew and a boy took refuge on the mast. For the whole

day and night they had no other support but this mast, which rose about

eight feet above the raging sea. They were without food and almost

without clothes. One of them took off his shirt and waved it in the air as

a signal of distress, but the wind tore it from his enfeebled hands. The

boy, who was at the top of the mast, held

* This narrative was printed by the Spalding Club, instituted at Aberdeen in 1839 by

Robertson and others, for editing curious M.S.S. This club was dissolved in 1869.

+ This name, already noticed (vol. ii., p. 84), was applied to vessels employed in

conveying coals from the north, now termed colliers; and it has been suggested that the

"cat" of the renowned Whittington was in reality a ship, by which he amassed great

wealth by importing coals into London; a trade which had been prohibited early in the

fourteenth century.

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THE PERLUSTRATION OF

out ‘till, the second day, when, exhausted with fatigue, he loosed his

hold and slipped into the sea. One of the men seized the boy and

restored him to the position he had lost. They had nothing with which to

fasten him to the mast, and there was no cross-tree on which he could

rest; hence, on the following night, the lad almost insensible from cold,

and with his strength quite expended, fell again, and this time he was

hopelessly lost. On the morrow the shipwrecked men had a gleam of

hope. A ship passing in the distance noticed their signals, heard their

cries, and sent a boat to their assistance. After struggling in vain against

the wind and tide, the boat gave up the trial and returned to the ship.

The four wretched men thus saw every chance of a rescue vanish. A

gloomy despair seized on them—they bade farewell to life. Still they

resolved to die at their post, and frenziedly clung to the mast. One or

two hours later they heard a gun fired. At this sound they regained

courage; it might be a signal! A boat had in reality put out to seek them;

but as they only formed a dot on the dark ocean, and night was

descending on the surface of the water, they could not be discovered,

and the boat returned to the shore. It was the third night;—they passed it

like the two others, clinging to the mast, fearing more and more that it

might give way at any moment, and then they would all be buried in the

waves. The next morning a boat from Bacton made a fresh attempt,

reached them at about ten o'clock, and landed them more dead than

alive at Palling. As soon as they were able to support the journey they

were transferred to the Sailors' Home at Yarmouth. Their swollen and

stiffened limbs and spectral appearance bore testimony to the terrible

trials they had undergone."*

The loss of life at sea on the east coast, especially in the

neighbourhood of Yarmouth, is frightful, f One of the most disastrous

* J. M. W. Turner painted in 1831, in his grand manner, a Stranded Vessel of

Yarmouth. The sea is represented with wonderful power and truth. A boat is seen

buffeting the waves; while an endeavour is made to launch another. Smoke may be seen

proceeding from "Manby's Apparatus" on the beach, to obtain a communication with the

ill-fated ship. In the background is the Jetty; and some more vessels indistinctly seen

through the storm. This picture is in the Sheepshanks collection at South Kensington.

f See notes to Manship, p.p. 329, 334, and 342.

GREAT YARMOUTH

127

occurrences on record wans that which happened on the 28th of May,

1860. A. fearfully sudden and heavy gale swept along the coast, and

twenty-one trawling smacks and fishing luggers belonging to Yarmouth

were totally lost, and 180 industrious men in tbe prime of life were

drowned, leaving 70 widows and 172 children destitute.*

Some anecdotes of a more pleasing character may be added. In

December, 1868, the smack Raoltel when at sea, about sixty miles east

of Hasborough, fell in with a piece of floating wreck, upon which was a

small French poodle sitting on its haunches and begging for its life. The

dog was rescued and brought on shore. About the same time a ship's

boat landed a crew whose vessel had been lost in a storm on the Scroby

Sand. In the stern sheets was found a pigeon, which had never quitted

her neat during all the tumult of getting out the boat and the tossing of

the waves. On the 18th of October, 1872, the schooner Sally of

Portsmouth struck upon Hasborough Sand. She soon filled with water,

and the crew had barely time to get into the boat on deck before it was

swept away. Hearing a mewing the men pulled in the direction from

which the sound came, and reached a bundle of clothes floating from the

wreck upon which was seated the ship's cat; and the life of poor puss

was saved. In 1873 a steam tug being near the Cockle Gat, had the

attention of her crew attracted to an object on the water at some

distance, which proved to be a fine black Newfoundland dog. It was got

on board in a very exhausted state, but soon recovered. How long it had

been in the sea is unknown, as no vessel was in the vicinity.

Further south is the Norfolk Hotel, which occupies the site of an

ancient cote. The latter in 1764 was purchased by John Boult, and long

remained in this family. When first erected the present building was

called the York Hotel. f

* On their behalf an appeal was made to the public, which was nobly responded to.

A sum exceeding £10,400 was subscribed and distributed for their relief under the

direction of a committee, of which, Mr. William Worship was Chairman. By careful

management this fund was not completely exhausted until 1874, when the youngest child

had reached the age of 14.

f This hotel was occasionally visited by Frances Henrietta Lady Stafford, daughter

and co-heir of Edward Sulyarde, Esq., Haughley Park, Suffolk, and wife of Sir George

Wm. Jerningham Bart., to whom the Barony of Stafford was confirmed

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Opposite the Norfolk Hotel, at the south-east corner of Lancaster

Road, stands a Fish Warehouse, erected upon a site where some boat-

men, in tlie olden time, had a shed, with a lofty look-out, now pulled

down. Here are received the fish landed from smacks engaged in

trawling in the North-sea fisheries—cod from the Dogger Bank—soles

from the Silver Pits—and plaice from the Brown Bank—which products

of the sea are here packed and sent with all speed to the railways.*

Among the boatmen and others connected with the fisheries and

the mercantile marine of the port may be found the names of old

families distinguished in various ways, such as Bexfield, f Bowles, J

in 1825. She was, it is said, "most beautiful in person, most powerful in mind, and most

commanding, graceful, and attractive in manners." She designed and commenced the new

buildings at Costessey, which were scarcely completed when the Prince of Wales paid a

visit there in 1866. Lady Stafford died in 1832, aged 56.

* Fishing with a trawl was prohibited by proclamation in 1681 1 ; and in 1633 Thomas

Griffin and other fishermen were held to bail for fishing off Winterton with a trawl. An

inquiry has recently been made as to the effects of trawling; but it has not been proved

that the use of the trawl has caused a diminution of fish. Delicious whitings are caught on

this coast. One, in 1871, measured 26 inches.

f William Bexfield, mariner, married Martha Braddock, daughter of James Braddock,

nephew of General Braddock, whose ill success in the war with the North American

Colonies led to their independence. In this family was preserved a shield of alms—sa., a

head eng arg., in the sinister chief an eagle displayed or. Crest—an eagle displayed sa.

t This has been, a very prevalent name. Thomas Bowles, " the last survivor of

the crew of the Royal George, lost at Spithead in 1782," as his epitaph in Yarmouth

Churchyard informs us, died in 1846, aged 85, leaving it is said 173 descendants.

This old sailor was precipitated into the river by the fall of the Suspension Bridge in

1845, but escaped unhurt. The loss of the Royal George produced a profound

sensation. Eight hundred of the brave,

Whose courage well was tried,

Had made the vessel heel,

And laid her on her side.

A land breeze shook the shrouds.

And she was overset;

Down went the Royal George

With all her crew complete.

Brave Kempenfeldt is gone;

His victories are o'er;

And he and his eight hundred men

Will plough the waves no more.

A table in the north parlour of Somerleyton Hall (now the billiard room) was framed out

of portions of that ill-fated vessel.

1 If only that prohibition of trawling of 1681 had remained in effect!

GREAT YARMOUTH 129

Rounce*and Soame . f Many familiar names are of Scandinavian origin,

such as Bessey, Blake, Brock, Crome, Feeke, Fiske, Gedge, Gedney,

Hacon, Hubbard, Juby, Kerridge, Kettle, Mack, Nocholds, Olley (Olaf),

Popy, Postle, Seago, Shatters, Shaull, Shreeve, Shuckford, Siely,

Skipper, Skoyles, Sowells, Swanson (Sweyn's son), Thaine, Trett,

Trory, Tubby, Wigg, Womack, &c. Others have the Scandinavian

termination sen converted into son, as in Annison, Belson, Empson,

Grimson, Hutson, Morrison, &c. Others have a Saxon patronymic as

Dowling, (Gosling, Rising, Spilling, Suffling, and Utting. Woolsey and

Wolston are names of long continuance).

The boats drawn up on Yarmouth Beach, especially the yawls, are

much esteemed for their admirable construction. Hoveller is a term

* Thomas Bounce of Yarmouth was tried and found guilty of high treason at a Court

of Admiralty, held at the Old Bailey in 1742, for having fought against his country on

board two Spanish, privateers, and for being concerned in capturing several English

vessels. According to the savage law then existing for such offences, he was drawn on a

hurdle to the place of execution, and there hanged, but before he was dead he was cut

down, his person mutilated, his head severed from his body, his bowels taken out, and his

body quartered and sent to different places.

f Dr. Thomas Soame born in Yarmouth, and the son of a fisherman, was descended

from an eminent family. His cousin, John Soame, dwelling at Burnham, was a man of so

good an estate that, being a royalist, he was able to pay a composition of £1,430 for it. His

uncle was Master of Peter House, Cambridge, at which college Thomas Soame graduated.

He obtained Holy Orders, and became Minister of Staines in Middlesex and a Prebendary

of Windsor. When the civil war broke out he was found on the side of the royalists, and

so devoted was he to the cause that he sent all he had to the king, so that when the rebels

came to plunder him, they found nothing to take but himself, and they imprisoned him

first in Ely-house, and afterwards in Newgate, and ultimately in the Fleet, He died not

long before the restoration.

t George Woolsey, born at Yarmouth in 1610, was taken when a child by his

father, Benjamin Woolsey (son of Thomas Woolsey), to Holland, and in 1623 he

accompanied some Dutch, emigrants to Now England, where they settled at Plymouth,

Mass., but Woolsey subsequently removed to Jamaica, Long Island, where he died

in 1698, aged 87, leaving a son, the Rev. Benjamin Woolsey, an eminent preacher,

who resided until his death in 1756 upon an estate called Dosoris (doz uxoris), which

he had acquired by his marriage with Abigail, daughter of John Taylor of Oyster

Bay, Long Island. For the names of the numerous descendants of George Woolsey, see a

paper by Charles B. Moore, Esq., entitled English and Dutch Intermarriages, published

in the New York Genealogical and Biographical Record, vol, iv., p. 128.

130

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still applied to some of the small boats. The word was in use at the time

of the Spanish Armada; and is derived by Minshen from the French

hober, an old word meaning to move to and fro.

It was formerly the custom of the fishermen and beachmen

annually to elect from among their own class a "Seaside Mayor," whose

province it was to settle such, trivial disputes as might arise among

themselves, especially during the fishing season. After his election the

"Seaside Mayor" was carried round the town in a boat; and upon these

occasions he made himself as much like Neptune as circumstances

would permit, and in the evening the electors indulged in a copious

allowance of beer. The custom fell into disuse when herrings ceased to

be landed on the beach.

Until the middle of the last century the beneficial effects of

breathing sea air and of using salt water were scarcely known. The

inhabitants of inland places considered the sea as "noxious;" and even

the inhabitants of Yarmouth kept their houses as far as possible from it.

In 1752 a Dissertation on the use of Sea Water was published in

London, which caused quite a revolution in public opinion. This was

taken advantage of at Yarmouth, where in 1759 apiece of waste ground

near the Jetty was, on the petition of Charles, le Grys, obtained from, the

corporation, on lease for five hundred years, whereon a B ATH - HOUSE

was erected. Two large plunge baths were made; one for ladies, the

other for gentlemen; each surrounded by dressing rooms.* These baths

remained until sometime after the commencement of the present

century, when the then owner filled them up, and in their stead formed a

number of small baths for both hot and cold water; and subsequently he

raised upon this part of the building, and converted it into a family hotel

and lodging house. In 1788 a ball-room was added at the north end of

the original building, which is now converted into a billiard room. f 1

* In 1777 James Bymac published A Sketch of Great Yarmouth, with some

reflections on Cold Bathing. It contains 22 pages 12mo., and was printed in London for

Mr. Evans, Paternoster Raw; Mr. Eaton, Yarmouth; and Mr. Wardlaw, at Harwich." It is

written in imitation of Swift's Tristram Shandy.

f It was customary to have a public breakfast in this room on the Thursday in the

"Race week 2 ."

" We went to a breakfast held close to the Jetty,

Where the viands were bad, but the ladies were pretty,"

says a writer in 1817. In the latter part of the last century these buildings were

1 Exactly two hundred years later, the hotel was in use an amusement arcade. During the

previous year, the ground floor had been removed in its entirety, the upper parts of the

building held up on steel piers so as to give an entirely unobstructed space for the gaming

room. The whole was then covered in flashing lights, and re-named The Flamingo.

2 At which time the racecourse was quite nearby, on the South Denes.

GREAT YARMOUTH

131

In 1797, during a heavy gale and high tide, the sea broke against

the Bath-house, and it was in danger of being levelled with the ground.

At the Bath-house died in 1834 Barbara, the widow of Dempster

Guthrie, Esq., of the Bengal Civil Service, who had been landed on the

previous day from a Leith smack, sick of cholera.

The J ETTY ( Jetée) was first erected in 1560* It was rebuilt in 1701;

and in 1767 was much damaged by a "raging sea." In 1791 it was nearly

swept away by an extraordinary high tide. It is depicted by Butcher with

a crane at the east end, to facilitate the landing of goods; and it had then

no side rails. In 1805 the Jetty was nearly destroyed in a storm; and

being then indispensible to the ships-of-war constantly riding in

Yarmouth Roads, an almost entirely new structure was erected at a cost

of £5,000; and rails were then added. It was lengthened 60 feet in 1846;

and the sea continuing to recede and the sand to accumulate, it was

again lengthened 60 feet in 1870. The platform at the west end has for a

considerable extent been removed. The Jetty was formerly maintained

by the Haven Commissioners; but by the last Haven Act that burthen,

has been shifted to the Town Council.* Before the erection of the

Wellington and Britannia Piers and the construction of the Marine

Parade, the Jetty was the only promenade over or near the sea. f

called "Allen’s Rooms," from the name of the then proprietor, who died in 1796, aged 45.

* When under repair in 1808 the Jetty was guarded by the Cambridgeshire Militia,

commanded by Major Pemberton, then quartered in the town; and no one was allowed to

go on except with a pass from the mayor. This regiment left the town in the following

year, and on their departure a letter was addressed by the mayor to the commander-in-

chief (Sir David Dundas) highly commending them, and stating that during a period of

two years "not a single instance of irregularity had occurred." In 1813 J.M.W. Turner

painted a small picture of Yarmouth Jetty, which in 1872 realized 150 guineas.

"Yarmouth Jetty," painted by Old Crome, is now in the possession of Lieut.-Colonel

Maitland Wilson. The "Water Frolic," mentioned in vol ii., p. 364, is now the property of

the Rev. Canon Selwyn.

t Here, in the first quarter of the present century (19 th .), during the summer months,

might frequently be seen Dr. Herbert Marsh, the learned Bishop of Peterborough. A small

man, with stooping gait, in a scratch wig, clerical costume and episcopal boots reaching to

the knees. He usually appeared absorbed in thought, whilst his portly wife was constantly

by his side. The bishop died in 1839, aged 82. Among

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The shore or west and of the Jetty was for centuries the favorite

place for stalls for the sale of oysters, apples, fruit, and vegetables, "but

the stalls have now been driven away. The adjoining- ground was made

to assume a semi-circular shape in 1866 by an iron railing, against

which are the flag-staffs of the mackerel salesmen. As soon as it is

known that a fishing boat has brought up off the Jetty with mackerel on

board, a

bell is rung and a crowd collects round one of the staffs upon which a

flag is hoisted, and the auctioneer to whom the sale is entrusted mounts

upon the bottom of an empty tub, and the proceedings commence.*

former visitors to Yarmouth., and for some years a resident, was the late Admiral

Benedictus Marwood Kelly, who died in 1867 leaving a very large aura of money to

found a college in Devonshire for the primary education of the sons of naval officers.

Tavistock was the site ultimately selected. He was descended from, the ancient family of

Kelly of Kelly, which had been seated for centuries in the County of Devon, and who

bore arg., a chev. betw. three billets gu. ; and for a crest, out of a ducal coronet gu, an

ostrich's head arg ., holding in the beak a horse-shoe or.

* The above engraving is from a photograph of a well-known fish salesman, now

deceased, and is a good likeness of the man.

GREAT YARMOUTH

133

During the mackerel season, which, lasts from the 12th. of May to

the 12th of July, the beach near the Jetty presents an animated

appearance, from the number of men and women employed in the

landing, sale, purchase, and packing of this beautiful but perishable

fish; especially after a breeze of wind to which the mackerel is said to

he partial. Dryden alludes to this when he says—

" ---------- they put up every sail,

" The wind was fair, it blew a mackerel gale ;"

and Hood had the same idea in his mind when he wrote—

" : Up jump’ d the mackerel

" With his strip'd back, "

Says he ' haul in the main !' and ' haul in the tack

'' For its windy weather,

Its stormy weather; "

And when the wind blows, pipe all hands together,

"For, upon my word, it's stormy weather."

A "mackerel sky"—the term given to a collection of small clouds

following each other—is a sign of a gale, as says the distich.—

" Mackerel's scales and mares'

tails " Make lofty ships carry low

sails"

and as the proverb says—

" A mackerel sky, neither long wet nor long dry."

About the 12th of May mackerel are accustomed to appear in

abundance on this coast; and have done so for centuries. Sylas Neville,

writing in 1770, says "May 15th—the landlord of the Wrestlers sent me

a mackerel, being one of the first caught this season." In 1870 a

mackerel was landed weighing 2 lbs. 11 ozs., and measuring in length

19 inches, and in girth 10¼ inches". Of late year’s mackerel have from

some unknown cause greatly diminished on this coast, while at Kinsale

and other places they have largely increased.

Mackerel and milk are the only articles the sale of which is

legalized by Act of Parliament, on Sundays. By the 10 Wm. III.

mackerel are permitted to be sold on Sundays before or after divine

service; and by the 2nd Geo. III. fish carts may travel on the Lord's day.

To the north of the Jetty, from September to December, might

annually be seen in former years the still more exciting employment,

not always unaccompanied by danger in rough weather, of ferrying

134

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

herrings from fishing boats lying at anchor in the Roads, and landing

their catch on the beach, whence it was carted to the fish houses in the

town to be cured. The introduction of steam tugs has nearly annihilated

this business, fishing boats being now towed into the harbour, where

they land their cargoes at the Quay or at the Fishwharf, and are then

towed out again.

To the north-west of the Jetty stood a look-out much used when

Butcher painted his picture, but it was long ago removed; loftier

structures having been erected elsewhere. Opposite the Jetty were some

old cotes which, during the latter part of the last century and the

beginning of the present, one, were occupied by bumboat-women, who,

when Yarmouth was a naval station, supplied the fleet with vegetables

and other commodities. These buildings having been pulled down, the

present public house, called the Barking Smack, was erected on their

site.

From the Jetty and Piers can be viewed, usually in the months of

August and September, that remarkable phenomena, a luminous sea,

which is believed to be attributable to myriads of minute insects, the

examination of which by the microscope elicits the fact that they

contain a fluid which when emitted leaves a train of phosphoric light in

the water ; and which is brought forth by some electrical excitation.*

Yarmouth Beach is peculiarly well adapted for sea-bathing ; but

fatal accidents have from time to time occurred. In 1773 Alderman Gay

of Norwich was drowned whilst bathing. In 1871 Thomas Dyson of

Cipstone Street, Fitzroy Square, London, was drowned.

The rounded flint stones found on Yarmouth Beach, composed of

silica, lime, soda, and oxide of iron, are collected in large numbers and

sent to Newcastle, where they are converted into glass, and sent back in

the shape of bottles.

The lauding from boats at Yarmouth has not been unattended with

danger; and many fatal occurrences have been recorded. In 1780 three

young men belonging to H. M. S. Fly were drowned. The following is

part of their epitaph in Yarmouth Churchyard:—

'' When the brave tar, who furls aloft the sail "

Escapes from peril and survives the gale;

* Mr. O. Peach of Fowey has collected a great many facts in proof of this theory.

GREAT YARMOUTH

135

" How hard his fate — a thousand dangers past, "

When near his native land, to "breathe his last! "

Tho ’ rescued oft from threat'ning seas, one wave "

Upsets the boat, and sends him to his grave! "

In 1791 Miss Marion Fraser, aged 29, was lost "coming on shore."*

Capt. Garnier, of H. M. S. Aurora, and four seamen were drowned in

Yarmouth. Roads in 1796 by the upsetting of their boat whilst returning

to that ship, the captain having dined on shore. In 1801 Capt.

Carruthers, of H. M. S. Invincible, was accidentally drowned. In 1805 a

boat belonging to H. M. S. Antelope whilst coming to the Jetty was

upset, and out of eleven men who were in her five were drowned. The

mother of one young sailor, having travelled sixty miles to meet her son,

was standing on the Jetty and witnessed the accident. In 1811 Capt.

Halford, of H. M. S. Chanticleer, when attempting to land in bad

weather on the beach, was drowned with one of his midshipmen, his

coxswain, and a seaman. He was of a Bristol family. His body was

recovered and interred with naval honors. The Chanticleer fired minute

guns. Two hundred of the Cambridgeshire Militia, with their officers

and band, attended the funeral. The pall was supported by six post-

captains; and a numerous cortege, with a part of the ship's company,

followed. In 1819 a boat waiting at the Jetty, with one man in her, was

capsized by a heavy swell. A dog, the property of Mr. W. H. Smith,

immediately leaped into the sea, and after a considerable struggle,

succeeded in drawing out the man from under the boat, and supported

him ‘till he was rescued. The dog then swam after the oars and the

man's hat, which he severally brought on shore. The same dog had

previously rescued a child of six years old from the river.

* It is related that she was the daughter of a gentleman of considerable wealth in

London, who was so displeased with her marriage in Scotland that she was forbidden his

house. A severe illness, with the near prospect of death, appeased his anger, and she was

summoned to his bedside. Embarking on board a Leith smack, the then only means of

passage by sea to London, Mrs. Fraser suffered so severely from sickness that it was

considered necessary to land her at Yarmouth; but in coming on shore the boat which

conveyed her to the land was swamped in the surf and the unhappy lady was drowned.

Her body was recovered at a considerable distance from the beach, and buried in the

chancel of Yarmouth Church, where there is a mural monument to her memory

representing the catastrophe.

136

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

One of the oldest houses on the beach, out dating only from the

last century is the Marine Tavern, standing a little to the south-west of

the Jetty. It is depicted in Butcher's "view, painted in 1796,* when it

was called the Admiral Onslow , whose likeness was stuck up on a sign-

post. f

On the south side of Marine Tavern is Portland Passage, on the

north side of which and adjoining Wellington Road is a block of small

houses called Brock's Buildings. The name is derived from the man who

owned them, and who performed one of the most remarkable feats of

swimming ever recorded.

Samuel Brock was a member of a company of boatmen, known by

the name of Layton's, whose rendezvous was at the above tavern where

they had a look-out. At about one o'clock p.m. of the 6th of October

1835, a vessel was discerned, distant about twelve miles to the east,

with a flag flying for a pilot. With the usual alacrity displayed on these

occasions, a yawl of eighteen tons burthen, called the Increase, was

launched from the beach, and Brock with nine other men and a branch

pilot put off to the ship. "I was near being left behind," says Brock, "for

I was looking at Manby's apparatus when I heard my messmates singing

out; and had barely time to jump into the boat with wet feet." At four

p.m. they reached the vessel, which proved to be the Spanish brig

Paquette de Bilboa, laden with a general cargo, bound to Cadiz from

Hamburgh. The ship was leaky, and the pumps were at work; and it was

ultimately arranged that Layton , the pilot, with two of the boatmen

should remain on board, to pilot and assist the vessel into Yarmouth

harbour. The other eight boatmen left the brig, which was then about

five miles east of the Newarp floating Light-vessel, to proceed home,

but when they neared the Light, a signal was made to them to go along-

* Butcher's picture hangs in the Card-room of the Town Hall, and represents

very accurately this locality as it then appeared, with, the fleet lying at anchor in the

Roads. Naval and military officers, soldiers and sailors, lads and lasses are seen in

the foreground amusing themselves in various ways. To the left may be seen a

gentleman driving a lady in one of the Yarmouth coaches, already mentioned in

vol. i., p. 23. The costumes of the period are faithfully represented.

f Sign-posts were formerly very common; but the obstruction they caused in

towns occasioned their removal. They were seen in the streets of London as late as

1764. (How nice it would be to get rid of even a small proportion of the enormous

clutter of signs found along roads today.)

GREAT YARMOUTH

137

side, and they were then requested to take a sick man on shore. The poor

fellow was lowered into the boat and wrapped in some of the boatmen's

clothes. The boatmen then shoved off, and set their three lug sails with

the wind blowing a fresh breeze from W.S.W. " There was," said Brock,

"about a pint of spirits in the boat which the Spaniards had given us, and

the bottle was passed round once, each man taking a mouthful, and

about half of it was consumed; most of us had got a bit of bread or

biscuit in his hand making a sort of light meal." Brock had hold of the

main sheet ; and the men chatted over what their probable earnings

would be, calculating to be on shore by ten o'clock.

"Alas! nor wife, nor children, more shall they behold;

" Nor friends, nor sacred home."

When the light was about two miles astern, without the slightest

warning a terrific squall from the north took the yawl's sails aback, and

the ballast, which they had trimmed to windward, became suddenly

changed to leeward, and the boat instantly upset. This trimming of the

ballast, although a common, is a very dangerous practice, as a sudden

lulling or change of wind renders the boat liable to capsize. All nine

men were in the water. "Twas terrible," says Brock, "to listen to the

cries of the poor fellows—mixed with the hissing of the water and the

howlings of the storm. I heard their shrieks for mercy and their screams

of despair," then, indeed there

------" rose from, the sea to sky the wild farewell'

"I struck out," he said, "to get clear, of the crowd, and in a few minutes

there was no noise, for most of the men had sunk, and on turning round

I saw the boat was still kept from going down by the wind which had

got under her sails. I swam back to her, the boat's side was about three

feet under water, and for a few minutes I stood upon it, but I found she

was gradually settling down, and when the water was up to my chest I

left her and swam away. Then I began to think of my awful position. I

knew that the nearest land was six miles distant, that it was then low

water, and that when the flood tide made, it would set off shore and

carry me far to the southward." At this time a rush horse-collar covered

with old netting, which had

138

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

been used as one of the boat's fenders, floated past. Brock laid hold of it,

and by putting his left arm through it he supported himself in the water.

He then remembered that he had a sharp clasp knife in his pocket, which

he had purchased two days before (having been some time without one);

and getting it out he, "most provident in peril," cut away the waistband

of his petticoat trousers, which then fell off. He next got rid of his frock,

waistcoat, and neckcloth, but dared not try to free himself of his oiled

trousers or drawers, fearing to entangle his legs. He then put the horse

collar over his head, which helped to keep him afloat, but finding that it

retarded his swimming, he in a short time abandoned it. The hurricane

had now passed away; the moon shed her silvery beams over the smooth

surface of the sea, and all was silent as the grave. The tide having carried

him out of sight of Winterton Light, which had hitherto been his land

mark, he fixed his eyes upon a guiding star; but suddenly the sky

became obscured, and "darkness was upon the face of the deep." He no

longer knew his course; but he was roused from any feeling of despair

by a sudden peal of thunder, followed by flashes of lightning, which

threw their vivid fires around him. The dark clouds were dispersed; and

once more the moon, then near the full, burst forth, and he could

distinguish Lowestoft High Light and the cliffs beyond Gorleston. He

then made for a buoy, which upon reaching he knew to be the chequered

buoy of St. Nicholas' Gat, and nearly opposite his own door but distant

four miles from the land. He did not cling to it, for, said he, "I knew the

night air would finish me had I rested long upon it; and how did I know

that my limbs would resume their office if I attempted to leave it; and

although he had then been five hours in the water, he again struck out.

The tide had now become slack, preparatory to turning; and the wind

being in the east favored his efforts to make for the land. He had

however another horror to experience. A whizzing sound above his head

was followed by a splash in the water, and a sudden shriek informed him

that a seagull had marked him for her prey. Her loud discordant scream

had brought together a number of these formidable birds. By shouting

and splashing: the water with his hands and feet, he convinced them that

he was not a corpse, and leaving him they went their

GREAT YARMOUTH

139

way. He next caught sight of a vessel riding in Corton Roads, to reach

which he had to swim over Corton Sand where the sea was breaking,

and as he approached the wind went round to the west and he was met

by the swell of the sea. " I got," said he, "a great deal of water down my

throat, which weakened me, and I knew that if this continued it would

soon be all over with me. I prayed for a change of wind or that God

would take away my senses before I felt what it was to drown." Most

providentially the wind did change to the east; hope revived within him,

and he was driven over the sand into smooth water. He could easily have

reached the shore, and the temptation to swim to it was great; but again,

cool reflection came to his aid. Had he done so he might not, in his

feeble state, have been able to wade through the surf, nor strong enough

to walk along the shore or climb the cliffs, and unless speedily

succoured he knew he must perish from exposure and exhaustion. He

therefore swam to a brig riding at anchor in Corton Roads, which proved

to be the Betsy of Sunderland; Christian, master. The seaman's cry was

heard along the deep, and Brock was taken on board. As soon as he

reached the deck he fainted, and remained insensible for a considerable

time. His throat was highly inflamed from having breathed (as a

swimmer does) the saline particles in the air for so long a time, and

became so swollen as to threaten suffocation. His neck and chest were

perfectly flayed; and the soles of his feet, the palms of his hands, and the

hamstrings were much excoriated. Every attention which kindness could

suggest was paid to him on board the vessel, and the next morning he

was landed at Lowestoft, where having received good nursing and

medical assistance, he in five days was able to walk to Yarmouth. The

brig was distant from the place of the accident fourteen miles, and Brock

had been in the water more than seven hours. He was at the time of the

occurrence in the prime of life, being 31 years of age, stood 5 feet 5

inches high, and weighed 14 stone. The chest was of unusual breadth,

and he possessed great strength of limb; but his bodily prowess would

not have saved him had it not been for the powers of his mind, which

enabled him to judge rightly under the most appalling circumstances.

His countenance was remarkably open and placid, expressive of

determination combined with great good humour, his

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THE PERLUSTRATION OF

" Never, I ween, did swimmer,

" In such an evil case,

" Struggle so long against the flood

" Safe to a landing place; "

" But his limbs were born up bravely,

" By the brave heart within. '' M ACAULAY .

Brock died at his house in Brock's Buildings on the 14th of December,

1873, having nearly completed his 70th year.

In a house facing west on Wellington Road, resided for some time

Robert Hales, the Norfolk giant.*

''About 150 yards to the south-west of the southwardmost cote," a

piece of the town's waste was granted by the corporation in 1779 to

John Palmer, who erected a wind-mill thereon, which in 1783 he sold to

David Simpson. This mill, subsequently known as Skinner's, is now

pulled down, and the site converted into stables, entered from the

Victoria Road.

Between No. 3, South Beach and the Steam Packet Tavern, is a

narrow road leading from the Marine Parade to Wellington Road, called

Marine Passage; and on the south side of No. 6 (St. Edmunds Lodge; is

Devonshire Place.

Before the present flag pavement was put down, or any road made

in front, Mr. Isaac Preston Jermy, Sub-steward of Yarmouth, f

* This remarkable man was born at Winterton, and was of a family most of

whom, including females, were extremely tall. His height was 7 feet 6 inches, and

his weight 34 stone 6 lbs. He was seen by Queen Victoria at Buckingham Palace;

and her majesty presented him with a gold watch and chain, which he was fond of

exhibiting. He travelled for some time in the United States. He died at Yarmouth

on the 21st November, 1863, aged 43, and was buried in Somerton Churchyard, where

his grave, conspicuous for its length, may still be seen. Beside him lies his older

brother, Edward Hales, who died in 1850, aged 50; he stood 6 feet 8 inches. All

the brothers averaged 6 feet 5 inches, and the sisters 6 feet 3 inches, one of them,

Mrs. Page, died at Yarmouth in 1874. The father stood 6 feet 6 inches, and the

mother 6 feet.

f He was elected Sub-steward of Yarmouth in 1819 in succession to

WilliamWhitred, Esq., who had been chosen in 1815 on the death of William

Adair, Esq.

manners were very quiet, and although, communicative he was free

from all manner of boast or self-sufficiency. A fund was provided for

the relief of the widows and children of the eight men who perished,

but Brock refused any pecuniary aid. His portrait has been painted and

engraved.

GREAT YARMOUTH

141

purchased and pulled down some cottages, and on

their site built the present house (No. 7) from his own

design, for a summer residence. It is now occupied

by Frederick Palmer, Esq. He was the eldest son of

the Rev. George Preston, Rector of Beeston St

Lawrence from 1786 to 1837, by Henrietta Elizabeth

his wife, daughter and co-heir of John Bedingfield,

Esq., of' Beeston. The Rev. George Preston was the third and youngest

but eventually the only surviving son* of Isaac Preston, Esq., of Beeston

(who died in 1768, aged 57), by Hester his second wife, daughter of

Jonathan Pettingall. Prances, the only other child of this marriage,

became the wife, first, of William Jermy of Bayfield, Esq., High Sheriff

of Norfolk in 1748, who died in 1752; and, secondly, of John Michell,

Esq., Recorder and M.P. for Boston, who died at Bayfield in 1766, aged

56. f The above-named Isaac

The last lost his life by falling from an upper window of his house in Soho Square,

whereby he broke both his legs. For a list of sub-stewards see P. C, p. 350. Mr. Jermy's

grandfather, Isaac Preston, Esq., filled the office of Sub-steward of Yarmouth from 1749

to 1768. The A DAIRS claim both a Scotch, and Irish descent, the latter being from a junior

branch of the Fitzgeralds, Earls of Desmond. Sir Robert Adair of Kinhilt and Ballymena,

raised a regiment of foot for William III., and was knighted by that monarch on the field.

His great-grandson, William Adair of Ballymena, County Antrim, and of Flixton Hall in

Suffolk, married Camilla, daughter and heiress of Robert Shafto, Esq., of Benwell in

Northumberland, and their son, Robert Shafto Adair, was created a baronet in 1838, and

died leaving a son of the same name, who was created a peer in 1873, by the title of Lord

Waveney of South Elmham.

* Isaac Preston, the eldest son, M.A. of University College, Oxford, Barrister-at-law

and Recorder of Lynn, died in 1796, s.p. Thomas Preston, the second son, served in the

East India Company's Bengal Engineers, and died unmarried.

t The above-named Isaac Preston of Beeston by his first marriage with Alice, only

surviving daughter and sole heir of William Durrant of Scottowe (by Alice his wife, one

of the co-heirs of the Rev. James Clough, Rector of Suffield), had issue one son, Jacob

Preston, Esq., F.S.A., who died s.p. in 1787, aged 47, and with him the male line by the

above marriage became extinct. Elizabeth, the eldest daughter, who died in 1806, aged 66,

married Henry Hulton, Esq., of Andover, First Commissioner of Customs in America

(who died in 1790, aged 59), and took with her the Beeston estate. Thomas Hulton, Esq.,

their son, assumed the name and arms of Preston, and was created a baronet in 1815. He

died in 1823 aged 55.

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THE PERLUSTRATION OF

Preston was the grandson of Sir Isaac Preston, Knt. (vol. i., p. 141), who

died in 1708, aged 68, by Elizabeth his wife, who was the daughter and

heir of Charles George Cock, Esq., Recorder of Yarmouth. Sir Isaac

Preston was the son of Jacob Preston, the first of this family who settled

at Beeston St. Lawrence, which has ever since been the chief seat of the

family, and who died there in 1683, aged 70. He was the son of Jacob

Preston of Old Buckenham, who died in 1630, aged 66, and grandson of

William Preston of Preston in Suffolk, from which place the name is

derived. (See vol. i., p. 220,)

Isaac Preston Jermy was educated at Westminster School and at

Christ Church, Oxford; and having been called to the bar in 1814, went

the Norfolk Circuit. In 1826 he was appointed Steward of Norwich, and

in 1831 Recorder of that City; succeeding Mr. Alderson (vol. ii., p. 339)

in both offices. On the death of his father in 1837 he succeeded to the

Stanfield estate near Wymondham, and took up his residence at the hall,

which had then been recently rebuilt; and in the following year he

assumed the name of Jermy. The Stanfield property, previously called

Bayfield, had been acquired by the marriage in 1735 of William Jermy

(son and heir of John) with Elizabeth, only surviving sister andneir of

William Lord Cramond, by whose ancestor, Sir Thomas Richardson,

Lord Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, it had been purchased in 1642.

(See vol. i., p, 157.) There was no issue of this marriage. William Jermy

married, for his second wife, Frances, daughter of Jacob Preston, Esq.,

of Beeston St. Lawrence, and having no issue by her he devised this

estate to the Prestons, and it came to the father of Mr. I. P. Jermy, by the

will of his brother Isaac in 1796. There seems to have been a long

entertained and deeply-rooted prejudice that on the death of William

Jermy the estate should have gone to that family and not to the Prestons.

The Jermy family had long been connected with Yarmouth. In

1613 John Jermy was a Justice of Peace for the Borough. John Jermy,

son of John Jermy of Bayfield, was chosen sub-steward in 1712; and

after holding that office for thirty-two years, resigned on account of

blindness. He married Mary, only child of Samuel Fuller of Yarmouth,

and died in 1784, aged 88. On her tomb in Aylsham Church are the

arms of Jermy— arg., a lion pass, guard. gu., impaling those of

GREAT YARMOUTH

143

Fuller. In 1754 Jeremiah Jermy and John Jermy, his brother* voted at the

general election for Yarmouth, on opposite sides; after which the name

disappears from the roll of freemen. On the death of the Rev. George

Preston in 1837, a claim to the Stanfield Hall estate was advanced on the

part of a grandson of John Jermy, who it was asserted was living in

Yarmouth on the death of William Jermy, and was his heir-at-law. This

man, whose name was Larner, was backed by a London attorney, and

attended by eighty labourers and small tradesmen from the neighbouring

villages, he took forcible possession of the hall, turned out the inmates,

placed the furniture on the lawn, and withstood all efforts to dislodge

him. At last he and his followers were expelled by a military force; and

eighty-two prisoners were sent to Norwich Castle. They were tried at the

ensuing assizes; and being permitted to plead guilty to a simple riot,

were sentenced to short terms of imprisonment. In the neighbouring

Parish of Hethel was a farm called Potash, belonging to the Stanfield

estate, and tenanted by James Blomefield Rush. Disputes arose between

him and his landlord; and in 1848 the latter recovered £20 1 damages

against Rush for breach of covenants. Rush then printed and circulated a

pamphlet which he called The case of the rightful heir and owner of the

Stanfield Hall Estate.* On the evening of the 6th of November, 1848,

Mr. Jermy who was then residing at the hall with his son, Mr. Jermy

Jermy (who in the previous year had married Sophia, daughter of Mrs.

Chevallier of Great Yarmouth) on leaving the dining-room opened the

front door, as was his custom, and went out upon the lawn for a few

minutes; and when in the act of re-entering the house, Rush, who had

been on the watch, shot him dead through the heart. The murderer then

entered the house by the servant's door, wearing a mask and wrapped in

a cloak, and carrying a pistol in each hand, and encountering in the hall

Mr. Jermy Jermy, who, on hearing the report of the pistol had left the

drawing-room, shot him dead through the left breast. His young wife

alarmed at the firing rushed out of the drawing-room, and was met by

her servant, Elizabeth Chasteney; and as they stood together Rush fired,

and wounded Mrs.

* The history of Stanfield Hall is somewhat remarkable. It formed part of the dowry

of the unfortunate Lady Jane Grey when she was wedded to the Lord Guildford Dudley.

1 On my copy, this sum has been amended by hand from £420 to £20

144

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

Jermy so severely in her right arm that it had eventually, after much

suffering, to be amputated. The young daughter of the elder Mr. Jermy

running from the drawing-room was also fired at, but escaped; the shot

taking effect on the servant, Elizabeth Chasteney, whose thigh was

dreadfully injured. The villain then went back to his farm, and assumed

an appearance of unconcern. He was however apprehended the next day

and lodged in Norwich Castle. Rush was tried before Baron Rolfe,

afterwards Lord Chancellor Cranworth, and after a trial which was

prolonged for six days, during which he defended himself with more

audacity than tact, he was found guilty, and hanged. Elizabeth

Chasteney, the wounded servant, was brought into court on a litter, and

gave positive testimony as to the identity of the accused.

Mr. Jermy married in 1819 Mary Anne, daughter of Sir Thomas

Beevor, Bart., who died in 1823, leaving an only son, who perished as

above stated, and one daughter (Mrs. Jephson). He married, secondly in

1832, Fanny, daughter of the Rev. Mr. Jephson, Prebendary of Armagh,

by whom he had one daughter; Isabella. The widow of Mr. Jermy Jermy

afterwards married Thomas Beevor, Esq,, eldest son of Sir Thomas

Beevor, Bart;., by whom she has a numerous family. Mr. Jermy when

assassinated was in his 60th year. He and his son lie buried in

Wymondham Churchyard. Sophia Henrietta (the infant daughter of Mr.

Jermy Jermy) married in 1868 Reginald Thorsby Gwyn, Esq., of the

2nd Queen's Royals, son of Richard Gwyn, Esq., of Stratton St.

Michael, by Elizabeth his wife, daughter of Isaac Preston, Esq., (vol. ii.,

p. 82); and died in 1870, leaving an infant son, who is heir to the

Stanfield estate.

Further south is a dwelling house occupying the site of a cottage,

which early in the present century was purchased by Peter Le Neve

Foster 2 , Esq., of Lenwade, Great Witchingham; and converted by him

into a summer residence.

The next house was erected in 1835 by William Bircham, Esq., of

Reepham* upon whose death it was purchased by the Rev. T. G. P.

* His father in 1756 purchased a brewery at Reepham, and adopted for a motto

Bear and forbear— the word beer in Norfolk being so pronounced. Bircham, signifying

according to Blomefield, a town on the hills, gives the name to two villages in

Norfolk, Bircham Magna and Bircham Newton 1 .

1 Descended of Peter Le Neve, see RRH, 132 King Street. LeNeve Foster wrote a

family history, a copy of which is to be found in the British Library.

2 Re Bircham, see RRH, Row 27.

GREAT YARMOUTH

145

Howes,* Rector of Belton, and by him it was sold to James Vance, Esq., f

who conveyed it to Mr. Samuel Hewett, t ; formerly of Barking, Essex.

The latter died in 1871, aged 78.

At the commencement of the, present century there stood on the

site of the Royal Hotel, a solitary house erected by Gardiner Chapman,

Esq., of Norwich, surrounded by a small garden. It was the last house

towards the south; and afterwards became the property of Mr. Gosling,

who devised it to Sir William Foster, Bart., by whom it was sold; and

considerable additions having been made it was ultimately converted

into the Royal Hotel. In 1856 William Yarrell, the naturalist, author of

the well-known work on British Birds and fishes, died suddenly at this

hotel, of ossification of the heart, aged 76 1 . He bore for his crest, a

fountain charged with a fish, which, says Moule in his Heraldry of Fish,

is supposed to represent a ruffe, a beautiful little fish peculiar to the river

Yar or Yare. § He was buried at

* The family of Howtys, Howse or Howes, has been of long continuance in Norfolk

and Suffolk. John Howse in 1429 did homage to the Abbot of Bury St. Edmunds' for

lands at Ashfield in Suffolk. A family of this name (spelt Howse until the last century)

came from Berkshire and settled at Morningthorpe in Norfolk. It was represented by the

late Edward Howes, Esq., M,P. for South Norfolk. John Howes, who died in 1737, hath a

mural monument in Morningthorpe Church, on which he is described as having been "a

pious man, and the world the better for him." He filled the office of High Sheriff of

Norfolk in 1718. This family bears arg., a chev. betw. three griffins' heads couped m, ;

and for a crest, a demi-unicorn issuing from a crown, all ppr.

f Son of Andrew Vance, Esq., of Dublin, and brother of John Vance, Esq., M.P. for

that city from 1852 to 1865, and in 1867 for Armagh. They bore barry pily of eight, gu.

and or.; and for a crest, a man's head ppr., helmet az., garnished or.

t This is a Saxon name—originally Huaet or Huita. The name of White is supposed

to be derived from the same origin, and both applied to the fair-haired Saxons. The will of

Thomas Hewett of Yarmouth was proved at Norwich in 1669. Families of this name are

to be found in several parts of England and especially in Herefordshire, where at

Sawbridge worth there is this quaint epitaph to the memory of one of them:—

" Here lyes Hewett, a gentleman of note ;

" For why ? He bear's three owlets on his coats.

" Ye see he is buried in the Church of St. Paul,

" He was wise, became rich — and now you know all.

" Hewett bore gu., a chev. eng. betw. three owls arg.,— Cussan's

Herefordshire, p. 79. 2

§ Spencer in his Faerie Queens, lib. iv., canto xi, says—

" Him follow’d Yar, soft washing Norwitch wall,

"And with him brought a present joyfully

1 This presumably is a diagnosis of calcification of the coronary arteries, strongly

associated with diabetes. Whether they would have ordered a post-mortem to

confirm the supposed cause death then, is perhaps doubtful. Nowadays a sudden

death like this would certainly be reported to the coroner. Dr O’Donnell was the

doctor for the Royal Hotel in the 1970’s and I have been called out when on call to

many such occurrences there and in other hotels, some of which circumstances were

rather extraordinary. See RRH.

2 Palmer’s knowledge of other local history texts is monumental. He must have had

an exceptional library at his disposal.

146

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

Bayford in Hertfordshire, where a great number of his ancestors and

kinsfolk lie.

Adjoining and to the north of the Royal Hotel was a small house,

entirely on the ground floor, called The Cabin, built by the Rev. Charles

Penrice (see vol. ii., p, 165), on whose death it was purchased by George

Weller Poley, Esq., of Boxsted Hall, Suffolk, who was the only son of

the Rev. John Weller Poley (who died in 1799, aged 44) by Jane his

wife, daughter of John Blatch Whaley, Esq., of Colchester, who died in

1833, aged 74. This family of P OLEY derive their descent from Thomas

Poley of Codreth in Herefordshire, who in the 14th century married

Anne, daughter and heir of Thomas Badwell of Boxsted, whereby he

became possessed of that lordship, and his descendants have resided at

the manor house down to the present time. In Boxsted Church there is a

large and handsome monument to the memory of Sir John Poley, Knt.,

who died in 1638, aged 80. He served under Henry IV. of France and

Christian, King of Denmark; and was also employed by Queen Elizabeth

against the Spaniards. Within a niche stands the figure of the knight

bare-headed, but in complete armour, and from his right ear hangs a

gold frog. A similar ornament appears in his portrait which may be seen

in Boxsted Hall.* The Poleys were royalists, and Sir Edmund Poley was

one of those selected by Charles II. for the decoration of the royal oak,

had that order been established. f

" Of his owne fish unto their festivall,

" Whose like nonelse could shew, and which they ruffins call."

* Nothing certain is known, as to the meaning of this appendage, but it is surmised to

have been an honorable device for services rendered in the Low Countries. Boxsted Hall

is a good example of the old English moated manor-house. It contains a large number of

family portraits from an early period, and some curious old hooks. The "squire's pews" in

the small Parish Church, which stands on an eminence fronting the hall and within the

grounds, are elevated and occupy the entire north aisle, looking down into the nave. The

eastwardmost one, for the family, has a table in the centre. On an old painted panel still

remaining the clawed foot of the Evil One is seen thrusting down some unfortunate soul.

f Sir John Poley, temp. Charles I., was fishing one day in the river Stour which runs

near the house, when a hare, sore pressed by the hounds jumped in and disappeared.''

"What are you fishing for ," said young Dick Hovell riding up. “For hares,” said the

knight. Hovell, thinking he jested, offered a wager, whereupon each put an angel into a

friend's hand. " Pull away," said the knight, and they drew up the net, when

GREAT YARMOUTH

147

Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Poley of Boxsted, by Frances his wife,

daughter of Sir Richard Head, Bart., married Robert Weller, Esq., who

died in 1751, aged 75 ; and their son, George Weller, assumed the name

and arms of Poley, and died in 1778, aged 68 ; and his grandson, the

above-named G. W. Poley, married Helen Sophia, daughter of James

Fisher, Esq. (see vol. i, p. 230). He died in 1850, aged 66, and was

succeeded by his eldest son, John George Weller Poley, Esq., who died

in 1869, aged 57.* He married Diana, daughter of Thomas Halifax,

Esq., of Chadacre, Suffolk , f by whom the present hall there was erected.

On the south side of the Royal Hotel is Royal Place, leading from

the Marine Parade to Wellington Road. At the north-west corner is a

house which was for some years the summer residence of Dr. Goodwin,

Bishop of Carlisle, when Dean of Ely. t

to the astonishment of Hovell and his companions a hare was found sprawling in it.

"Look you here," cried Sir John, ''did not I tell you as much ?" for he knew that poor puss

had entangled herself in the net. Sir John Poley represented Sudbury in Parliament in

1688.

* There is a very complete pedigree of Poley preserved at Boxsted, which was

exhibited to the Society of Antiquaries in 1863. They bear or., a lion ramp. sa., armed and

langued gu.; and for a crest, a lion as before, quartering sa., two chevs. betw. three roses

arg., stalked vert. : and for a crest, a greyhound's head erased sa., in his mouth a rose arg.,

stalked vert, for Weller (Grant 1672). In the annexed plate the arms of the following

families are quartered— 1 Foley and Weller quarterly, 2 the old coat borne by Sir

Humphrey Poley in 1107, 3. Badwell (by whom came Boxsted, 1327), 4. Leyes, 5.

Kingston, 6. Weyland, 7. Rockill 8. Blyant, and 9. Shaa.

f This name is supposed to be derived from haliz-fax, in allusion, to the holy hair of a

virgin, which according to a curious legend was cut off by a monk. This family trace their

descent from Richard Waterhouse, born in 1468, grandfather of John of Halifax, whoso

descendants dropped the name of Waterhouse and assumed that of Halifax. In 1572 they

had a grant of aims—confirmed in the present century by Sir Isaac Head, Garter—or., on

a pile engrailed sa,, betw. two fountains ppr., three cross crosslets of the first; quartering

(on account of the marriage of Sir Thomas Halifax with Margaret, daughter and co-heir of

John Savile, Esq.) arg., on a bend, sa ., three owls of the field; and for a crest, a moorcock

with wings expanded, combed and wattled ppr ., ducally gorged and charged on the breast

with a cross crosslet or. The Halifax motto is Sacre cheveu. Chadacre was for some

centuries the property of the Plampin family.

t Vincent Goodwyne was the first "preacher" appointed to the Parish Church after

the reformation.

148

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

In 1810 a public company was formed for the purpose of buying-

up some private rights over the ground lying waste to the south (which

if exercised would have prevented any great improvement in this

direction), and of purchasing from the Town Council, at a rent charge,

so much more of the waste as would enable the company to form the

Victoria Esplanade, with the adjacent streets and terraces. The ground

was laid out and a design for the houses in Kimberley Terrace prepared

by Mr. Thomas Marsh Nelson,, the architect to the company. The

buildings were commenced by the erection of the Victoria Hotel 1 which

was opened in 1842.

Brandon Terrace, at the north end of the Esplanade, was

commenced in 1844 by Farrants ancl Turrell, builders. The first house,

named Brandon House, and the adjoining house, called Esplanade

House, are the property of the Rev. Wm. Weller Poley; No. 3, of

Edward Hayward, Esq.; and No. 5, of Charles Sharpe Sharpe, Esq.*

A spacious street, called Camperdown Place connects the Victoria

Esplanade with Nelson Road, south. In one of the houses in

Camperdown Place resided for some time G EORGE B ORROW , author of

The Bible in Spain, Lavengro, and other well-known works. f

t Son of Capt. T. Borrow of Oulton High House, near Lowestoft, whose widow died

there in 1858, aged 86. George Borrow was when a lad articled to a solicitor at Norwich,

bnt soon abandoned the study of the law. During his residence in Yarmouth in 1853, a

ship's boat was capsized at the Jetty, and two men were thrown out of her. Happening to

be on the beach at the time, he immediately pulled off his coat and plunged into the surf at

considerable personal risk, and made an unsuccessful effort to save them. There is an

engraved portrait of him. Oulton High House was built by the Hobarts in 1550, and has a

fine-oarved mantelpiece of the period. It has the reputation of being haunted; a wild

huntsman and his hounds with a white

1 Now called The Carlton Hotel.

* Son of Charles Thomas Rissowe, Esq., of Melton,

Suffolk, who in 1800 assumed, by royal sign manual, the

surname and arms of Sharpe— or ., a leopard's face az, betw. three

falcons' heads erased sa., a bordure invected gu ., charged with ten

bezants; and for a crest, a wolf's head, erased per pale or. and

az., on the neck a horseshoe arg., in memory of Horatio Sharpe,

Esq., of Hampsted, his cousin german. Mr. Sharpe has in his

possession a large circular silver snuff box, with mother-of-pearl

let into the lid and a tortoishell bottom, which has this

inscription— " James Jones, Yarmouth, 1775." It came from the Mortlock family, some

of whom resided at Woodbridge.

GREAT YARMOUTH

149

At No. 13 died in 1868, Barnes Caldecott, Esq.,* of Ormesby St.

Michael, aged 65.

No. 2, Kimberley Terrace was successively occupied by Capt. Jack

Murray, R.N. (see ante. p. 118), and Capt Rivers, R.N. f The adjoining

house (No. 3), when temporarily occupied by the Hon. Courtenay

Boyle, was (on the 22nd of August, 1874) visited by H. R. H. the Duke

of Connaught, then a Captain in the 7th Hussars stationed at Norwich.

The centre house in Kimberley Terrace, designed by Brown and

erected for William Martin, Esq., of Bixley Hall, Norfolk (a partner in

the house of Grout and Co.), who died in 1850 before its completion, is

the property and occasional residence of G EORGE E DWARD F RERE ,

Esq., of Roydon. J

lady carrying a poisoned cup, being occasionally seen issuing from the mansion at

midnight. " There oft is heard, about the dead of night,

" Beginning faint, but raising still more loud

" And nearer, voice of hunter and of hounds ;

" And horns hoarse winded, blowing far and keen.

Borrow is a Yarmouth name. In 1552 the widow Borrow was fined for selling candles at

more than 2d. per lb.

* He was godson of the Rev. J. Barnes of Lakenheath, Rector of Barningham and

Weston in Suffolk, who died in. 1818, aged 97, leaving a considerable fortune, which,

went to the families of Caldecott of Linton and Ixworth. Caldecott bore per pale or. and

az., on a chief gu. three leopards' faces or. Papworth, p. 578,

f The latter was the eldest son of William Rivers, R.N., who was a midshipman on

board Nelson's flag-ship Victory at Trafalgar, whore he was severely wounded, his left

foot having been nearly shot away. On being carried down to the cockpit, he was laid on a

seaman's chest to await his turn with the doctor. Finding the dangling foot inconvenient

he asked Lord Nelson's coxswain to out it off, and on his refusal borrowed a knife and

severed the ligatures himself. The leg was afterwards amputated, and notwithstanding its

wooden substitute he was actively employed at sea until the end of the war. On one

occasion, when on the coast of France and in command of the ship's boat reconnoitering,

he was captured by the French, who cast him into prison on shore. After being for some

time in confinement he devised a plan of escape. One evening, when about to be locked

up for the night, he felled the warder to the ground, and followed by his fellow prisoners

escaped to the beach, where favored by the darkness they launched a boat and put to sea.

At daylight they saw a vessel standing in, which to their delight proved to be the ship to

which they belonged. After the conclusion of peace he was made Adjutant-Lieutenant of

Greenwich Hospital, where he died in 1856, aged 68. Grace his widow died in 1872, aged

94. Capt. Rivers now resides at Wandsworth.

t See vol. ii., p. 78. The Roydon estate came into the possession of the Freres in 1766,

and has ever since continued to be the chief seat of the family. Mr. G. E.

150

THE PERLUSTRATION OF

No. 6 and No. 7, Kimberley Terrace, and some houses in

Camperdown Place, were the property, and one or other of them the

occasional residence, of the Rev. Richard Daniel, who died in 1864.*

Frere succeeded to it on the death of his uncle, the Right Hon. J. Hookham Frere, who for

sometime during tho early part of the present century was British Minister in Spain. He

accompanied George Canning to Yarmouth, when the latter in 1808 came down to attend

the death-bed of his uncle, the Dean of Hereford. He is the eldest surviving son of the late

Edward Frere, Esq., by Mary Ann his wife, daughter of James Greene, Esq., of Norton

Tower and Clayton Hall in Lancashire, sometime M.P, for Arundel, and elder brother of

Sir Bartle Frere, K.S.I, and K.C.B., sometime Governor of Bombay, who in 1872 went on

a special mission to Zanzibar and negotiated a treaty for the suppression of the East

African slave trade. The Rev. Temple Frere, Rector of Roydon, youngest son of Sheppard

Frere, and consequently uncle to Mr. G. E. Frere, married Jane, eldest daughter of Chief

Baron Richards, by whom he had (besides the two sons so unfortunately lost, as

mentioned vol. ii., p. 179), two other sons, Robert Temple Frere, Esq., of Hilborough

Hall, Norfolk, and the Rev. Henry Temple Frere, who succeeded his father in the Rectory

of Burston, Norfolk, and married Miss Sarah Mary Jury. Both brothers have issue. In the

Parish Church of Finningham (mis-printed Finnington, vol. ii., p, 178) there are numerous

memorials of the Frere family; one monument being by Bacon, the sculptor, in honor of

Sir John Fenn who was buried there. (See vol. i., p. 131, and vol. ii., p. 178). Fenn bore

arg. on a fess. az., three escallops of the first, within a bordure eng, of the second; and for

a crest, a dragon's head erased. (See Gentleman's Magazine for 1814, part ii., p. 3.) Tobias

Frere (mentioned in a note, vol. ii, p. 178), who represented Norwich in tho Long

Parliament, became by sequestration possessed of the estate of Gawdy Hall, in Suffolk,

which had been mortgaged to him by Charles Gawdy, Esq., the last of that ancient family.

Tobias Frere left one son, also called Tobias, who by his wife, Sarah Longe; left ono

daughter and heiress, Susanna, who married her cousin, Francis Longe of Spixworth, The

widow of Tobias Frere (Sarah Longe) married, for her second husband, John Wogan,

Esq., a younger son of the ancient and knightly family of Wogan of Boulston Hall,

Pembrokeshire, to which estate his son eventually succeeded. John Wogan settled at

Gawdy Hall, his wife's residence and became the owner of that estate by purchase ; and

from him it has come down to his lineal descendant and representative, the present

possessor, John Sancroft Holmes, Esq. Gawdy bore arg., a tortoise passant vert. Tlxera is

a pedigree of Wogan in Phillips' Carmarthenshire, p. 153; and a pedigree of Gawdy of

West Harling, Norfolk, in Clutterbuck's Hertfordshire, vol. ii., p. 345. Frere of Roydon

quarters Hockham, Burtley, Tyrrel, &c. (Papworth, p. 922.)

* He was the second of the two sons of Francis Daniel, Esq., of Stokesby, Norfolk.

His elder brother, Knights Francis Daniel, Esq., died in 1869. Tho Rev. Richard Daniel

graduated at Clare Hall, Cambridge, where he was a Fellow Commoner. He was licensed

to the Perpetual Curacy of West Somerton in I835, and held the Rectory of Combs,

Suffolk, for twenty-eight years; and was a

GREAT YARMOUTH

151

No. 8, Kimberley Terrace, was sometime occupied by J. H. Heigham,

Esq.,* and is now the property of the Rev. F. A. H. Fitzgerald, Vicar of

Weybread, Suffolk.

No. 9 was the property and residence of M. Jean Baptiste Blondeau,

a native of Chaucey in France, who died here in 1853, aged 60, and was

buried at Wroxham.

No. 3, Albert Place, was for some time occupied by James

Venning, Esq., son of John Venning, Esq., who for many years resided

at St. Petersburg; memorials of whom, with notices of the Imperial

Family of Russia, were published in 1862.

Rear-Admiral Charles Calmady Bent resided, at No. 37, Nelson

Road, south; and died there in 1872, aged 78. f

The A SSEMBLY and R EADING R OOMS were erected in 1863 by a

public company. They were designed by Mr. H. H. Collins of London. t

Immediately opposite the Assembly Rooms is the W ELLINGTON

P IER , erected by a public company incorporated by Act of Parliament

in 1853, under the superintendance of Mr. Peter Ashcroft,§ at a cost

Magistrate for that county. He bore paly of six sa. and erm., a lion ramp, arg. The name

has been of long continuance in Flegg Hundred. John Daniel of Caister was married in

1675 to Prudence Brewsterwood at Yarmouth,

* The Heighams are an old Suffolk family, who bore sa., a fesse cheque or. and az.,

betw. three nags' heads erased arg. See Visitation of the County of Suffolk published in

the East Anglian, vol. iv.

f He served on board the Achille at Cadiz in 1810, and was in the boats of the

Imperieuse at the capture of a fort and convoy in the Gulf of Salermo in 1811, and was

present at the taking of Port D' Anzo in 1812, and at the reduction of Genoa. He was

wounded at Algiers, and when Lieutenant in the Eden was engaged in several actions with

pirates in the Persian Gulf; and when in the Espiegle he captured with two boats a pirate

of superior force in the West Indies. He married (secondly) in 1833 the Lady Solina

Hastings, second daughter of the eleventh Earl of Huntingdon, who survives him.

t During the night of the 12th of February, 1870, the wind then blowing a heavy gale

from the north-east, and there being at the time a severe frost, the south part of these

buildings, comprising two billiard rooms and gentlemen's reading room, were destroyed

by fire. They were rebuilt, and after having been leased to Mr. Henry Novis, the whole

property was sold in 1874 to Mr. Henry William Ulph,

§ He died in 1870, in the service of the South Eastern Railway.