152 THE PERLUSTRATION OF
of £7,000. Since its construction the sand has gradually accumulated
so as greatly to reduce the depth of water round the pier.*
M
ANY distinguished persons have from time to time em-
barked and lauded at Yarmouth, and we will here pause
to give some account of them and of N AVAL A FFAIRS
generally. During the 13th and 14th centuries, whenever
the exigencies of the state were sufficiently urgent, the Kings of
England exercised the prerogative of seizing the vessels of private
persons either for attack or defence; the owners receiving compensation
from the crown. Great Yarmouth was one of the ports principally relied
on for a supply of ships, men, and nautical skill. In 1205 a list was made
of all galleys or vessels then ready for service in war; by which it
appears that London then had five, and Yarmouth three. In 1242
Yarmouth was required to provide three of her best ships with six boats
and one galley, all sufficiently manned and armed. When in 1257
Richard Earl of Cornwall, younger son of King John, was elected King
of the Romans, the Archbishop of Cologne, the Bishop of Liege, the
Bishop of Utrecht and several nobles, came over for the purpose of
conducting him abroad. They set sail from Yarmouth Roads on the 29th
of April with forty-eight ships, and reached Dort in Holland on the 3rd
of March. In 1295 a Yarmouth fleet of fifty-three vessels put to sea and
proceeded to Cherbourg, which town they captured and burnt, and also
"spoiled a rich abbey." In the following year, whilst Edward I. was
engaged in the Scottish war, intelligence was received
* The shore— Maritima incrementa— the ground between ordinary high and low
water mark—belongs prima facie and of common right to the crown; and this right was
exercised by the Commissioners of Her Majesty's Woods, Forests, and Land Revenue,
who compelled the promoters of this pier to pay £80 to the crown for liberty to drive piles
into the shore for the support of the pier. A shore may however belong to a subject, or be
annexed to a manor; and it is a question whether, under the grant of King John of the
burgh in fee-farm, the King's right to the foreshore here did not also pass. As the sea has
receded, another question arises, to whom doth the increase belong? It is a rule, of law
that an increase per alluvionem belongs to the crown; but where this occurs, as at
Yarmouth, by insensible degrees, the alluvium belongs to the adjacent owner.
GREAT YARMOUTH
153
that one thousand men of Flanders, disguised as fishermen, were
preparing to attack and burn Yarmouth, whereupon orders were given to
collect all available vessels, and Sir John Botetout came down to
assume the command. Finding a warm reception prepared for them the
attack was never made. Great rivalry and jealously at this time existed
between the mariners of Yarmouth and those of the Cinque Ports, which
in 1297 broke out into open warfare. Edward I. having made great
preparations for the invasion of Flanders, sailed from Winchelsea, then
a port of importance, with a mighty fleet and a gallant army. When at
Sluys the smouldering enmity between the two great divisions of his
fleet broke out into a flame. The seamen fell to blows, and fought with
such fury that, despite of the king's intervention, twenty of the
Yarmouth ships were destroyed, and most of those on board perished.
Three of the king's largest vessels were driven to sea to escape the same
fate. In 1304 Edward I. paid the arrears of wages due to the masters of
two Yarmouth vessels, by giving them a ship, which he had built at
Newcastle. In 1308 Yarmouth sent "good ships" for the defence of
Berwick against the Scots; and in the following year, two ships, with
forty men each, were provided for the defence of Perth. In 1315 one
hundred foot soldiers were levied in Norfolk, and dispatched in the
Christopher of Yarmouth to Lord Botetout's fleet.
Robert A SHMAN , a burgess of Yarmouth, was in 1319 appointed
Admiral and Captain of the ships going against the Scots. His flag-ship
was the Michael of Yarmouth;* and in 1323 Yarmouth furnished
twenty ships for an expedition against Scotland. In 1333 H ENRY
R ANDOLF , a burgess of Yarmouth, was appointed "Captain and Admiral
of all ships in the-king's service going to Scotland." In 1337 the
Yarmouth navy, consisting of twenty armed vessels, under the
command of Sir John de Roos, proceeded to Dortrecht to convoy
Henry, Bishop of Lincoln, the Earl of Salisbury, and the Earl of
Huntingdon (the king's plenipotentiaries at the Court of Hainault) to
England; and
* Each vessel carried from thirty to fifty men, with one or two "constables" who were petty
officers, entrusted with the discipline of Che crew. The men had for wages threepence per
day; and the constables sixpence; whilst the admiral received five shillings.
154
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
while so engaged they fell in with and captured two Flemish ships with
240 men, and having on board £15,000 in money. In the following year
the bailiffs and the men of Yarmouth sent out a fleet, well armed and
equipped, to go against the king's enemies at sea "the space of a whole
month, at their own costs and charges." In 1338 the Earl of Lancaster
sailed for Antwerp with troops for the king. The fleet in Yarmouth
Roads was then commanded by Sir Walter Manny, KG. The services
rendered by Yarmouth ships and men at the battle of Sluys and the
"winning of Calais" have already been mentioned. It appears by the Pell
Rolls that in 1370 John Hankyn, the king's serjeant-at-arms, was sent to
Yarmouth to retain ships, and bring the same to Southampton for the
passage of Robert de Knollys to Normandy.* In the previous year Hugh
Fastolfe was assigned to array ships in the port of Yarmouth, and to pay
for mariners for the king's fleet then at Sandwich. In 1375 Thomas
Palmer obtained a license to seize some vessels lying at Blakeney, and
employ them in transporting provisions and stores for the king's service
in Scotland. In 1349 a squadron of Spanish ships passed suddenly up the
Garonne, and finding many English vessels at Bordeaux laden with
wine, they cruelly murdered the English seamen and carried away the
ships, though in time of peace. This outrage was avenged in the
following year, by the capture in the channel of twenty-four great
Spanish ships, laden with cloth and other valuable goods, which were
brought into English harbours, and Edward III. acquired for himself the
title of "Avenger of Merchants." In 1395 Yarmouth, Norwich, and the
coast towns of Norfolk fitted out a number of ships to fight against some
Danish pirates roving about, but many of the former were overcome and
their crews slain or taken prisoners and had to pay ransom and it is said
the merchants lost £20,000 in coin. In 1512 Henry VIII requested the
King of Spain to send a new fleet, well armed and provisioned, to
Yarmouth Roads, where the English fleet would be
* The arms of Sir Robert Knollys ( gu., on a chev. arg., three roses gu), appear in
Harpley Church, which he is said to have built, and also in Sculthorpe Church, impaling
those of Beverley—arg., a fess dancette betw. three leopards' heads, sa. See Notes on
Harpley Church by Mrs. Herbert Jones in the Original Papers of the Norfolk and Norwich
Archaeological Society, vol. viii., p. 19.
GREAT YARMOUTH
155
kept in readiness. (State Papers, i. p.83.) The capture of two French
ships in Yarmouth Roads in 1544 has already been mentioned. In 1546
three French ships came into the Roads and captured an English vessel,
which they attempted to carry off; whereupon the townsmen presently
drew down to the seaside two brass pieces of cannon and fired at them,
and the Frenchmen returned the fire but no damage was done.
Whereupon the bailiffs caused "two sacres" to be drawn down right
opposite the ships, which pieces being discharged pierced through the
Frenchmen, who then attempted to make off. In the meantime the
townsmen "made ready a man-of-war," and with thirty boats in
company pursued the enemy. A brisk encounter ensued, but the
townsmen when attempting to board ran their ship aground; and then the
Frenchmen "poured whole vollies of shot into the ship and among the
boats, but without doing any harm." At last the Frenchmen finding
themselves surrounded by the boats and exposed to the town's ordnance,
which galled them very much and killed some of their men, were
compelled to surrender; and the Henry and the Lion, both of Dieppe,
were taken possession of by the townsmen and brought in, but the third
ship grounded on the Newarp Sand and there perished. Sixteen
Frenchmen were killed, many more were wounded, and 120 were taken
prisoners. Of these only 20 were detained until they were ransomed. The
two prizes were rigged and employed in his majesty's wars, wherein
they did great service; and the town received special commendation. In
1554 fifty sail of ships were lost near Yarmouth in one day. On the
accession of Queen Elizabeth the inhabitants petitioned to have two
ships-of-war sent to protect them against pirates, Who they said had so
greatly increased that "no merchant or fisherman trafficking or fishing
on that coast could escape their hands," whereby they were not only
"greatly hindered" but sometimes were "thowen over the boarde."* In
1560 Admiral Winter, in command of a fleet destined for Scotland,
anchored in Yarmouth Roads. Leaving two ships there, the Bull and the
Salter, " for the safety of the victuals and munition," he again set
*Here we have the meaning of the expression "thrown overboard; "the "board"
"being some planking formerly placed on each side of the whip for greater strength, and
protection.
156
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
sail; but when off Flamborough Head " the traverse of the weather " was such
that the ships lost all their boats and the fleet was dispersed. (See Winter's
Journal.) In 1563 Sir Thomas Gresham applied to Secretary Cecil for "two or
three ships-of-war" to waft him over from Yarmouth to Zealand, "there being
divers French ships-of-war abroad." His purpose was to negotiate bonds for
satisfying the Queen's creditors.* In 1569 Edmund Babington, who had assumed
the title of admiral, brought three large piratical barques into Yarmouth Broads,
and anchored there. The bailiffs immediately demanded to see his commission,
upon which he produced a letter of marque granted by the French Admiral
Chatillon, which had long before been revoked by proclamation. This being
unsatisfactory the bailiffs opened fire upon the ships, whereupon they made off,
but not until Babington's vessel had received much damage, and she was
subsequently lost on a sand. Babington's wife complained to the Privy Council
of this inhospitable reception, but so far from affording her any redress, the
bailiffs were "commended for their services." In 1578 the bailiffs informed Sir
Francis Walsingham that they had apprehended Thomas Hitchcok, a "notorious
pirate," and that Lord Clinton had captured another pirate named Scarborough;
and a fortnight afterwards they sent up a copy of the examination of the latter
"for spoiling two Spanish ships," In 1585 four hundred soldiers were embarked
at Yarmouth for Holland. The bailiffs (Roger Drury and William Musgrove)
expended £347 in this matter, and had to apply for repayment to the Sari of
Leicester and Sir Francis Walsingham, In the following year the Lord-Admiral
Howard wrote to the bailiffs respecting two French vessels bound to Dieppe
with rye then in Yarmouth Harbour, directing them to sell the cargoes, "as the
country thereabouts stood in need of the same " . In 1588 a letter was received
from Sir Francis Drake enquiring what the town would adventure " in a service
of her majesty shortly to be performed by him." The answer was the fitting out
of a ship called the
* See vol. i., pp. 109, 304; and vol. ii, p. 363. Sir Thomas Greshamhad considerable
estates in Norfolk and Suffolk; It is said that a great part of the timber used in building the
Royal Exchange was taken from his lands at Battisford in Suffolk. Anne, daughter of Sir
Thomas Gresham, married Nathaniel Bacon,
GREAT YARMOUTH
157
name of God, and sending her forth, "in a warlike manner " to join her majesty's
fleet,* destined to defeat the Spanish Armada.
Of the gentlemen of Norfolk who served in the English fleet was Roger
Townshend of Rainham, who after the defeat of the Spaniards was knighted by
the Lord Admiral; a privilege then exercised by great commanders. For his
services Lord Howard of Effingham was in 1596 created Earl of Nottingham;
and in 1601 was chosen High Steward of Yarmouth, in succession to the Earl of
Essex who had been beheaded. P. C., p. 324.
In December, 1596, the bailiffs received orders "to fit out a man-of-war,"
and early in the following year they procured "a serviceable ship" for that
purpose at an expense of £425. John Some was appointed captain with the
approbation of the Lord Admiral, Thomas Cottie, f lieutenant, and Thomas
Bradshawe of Southwold, chief surgeon. She had on board eight large pieces of
cannon with other military stores and. sixty men, with provisions and all other
necessaries. This ship joined the royal fleet at Plymouth and proceeded to
Cadiz, which city was taken and plundered; and afterwards returned home laden
with booty, or what we should, now call "loot." Capt. Some proved to be a
brave and worthy officer, and acquitted himself so much to the satisfaction of
the Lord Admiral that the latter addressed a letter to the bailiffs on behalf of the
captain, and he was rewarded by a present of £100. t
In 1601 Sir Francis Yere, being on his return from the Low Countries, was
wind bound at Yarmouth, and. at the same time the Earl of Northumberland
came to Yarmouth to pass over to Flanders. There had been some "dryness "
between these great men. On the earl's arrival Sir Francis paid him a visit,
observing that he did so as they happened to be in the same town; although
otherwise he would not have troubled him. The earl replied he was sorry Sir
Francis
* She was provided with six minions, eight falcons, twenty muskets, five dozen
pikes, and twenty short swords. The ship, however, soon, met with a disaster by the
bursting of a piece of ordnance.
f Thomas Cottie was bailiff in 1602.
t The lieutenant received £3 2, and the other officers arid crew were also rewarded.
158
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
"had troubled both himself and him, seeing he might thank the wind for his
courtesy,"—and so they parted.* (Mentioned in a letter to Lord Burghley.) The
town had been required to provide and victual ships for the transport of 600
soldiers to the Low Countries. The inhabitants also contributed towards "setting
forth a ship to Cadiz." In 1614 Christian, King of Denmark, landed with his
Lord Admiral and Lord Chancellor. They posted to Brentwood, where they
slept, preserving a strict incognito. Next day they dined at an Inn in Aldgate, and
thence the king proceeded in a hackney coach to Somerset House, where his
sister, the queen, then held her court; and entered the presence chamber before
she was aware of his being in England. f In 1619 a book of all ships in the Port
of Yarmouth fit for the service of the crown, with the number of men and
"furniture of war," was sent to Sir Thomas Southwell, Vice-Admiral of Norfolk.
In December 1625, the Commissioners of the Navy complained that the taking
of "two English ships by the Dunkirkers off Yarmouth" might have been
prevented, had the king's ships been engaged "beating up and down;" instead of
which, by reason of "these Christmas holidays," the captains, masters,
boatswains, gunners, and carpenters, "were not on board their ships nor gave
any attendance to the service, leaving their ships a prey to any who might have
assaulted them." (State Papers.) In 1620 Sir Fulke Greville brought two ships
into Yarmouth Roads. Capt. John Pennington, writing to the Admiralty in 1631,
states his hopes of meeting at Yarmouth the ships, which were to come out of
Scotland with troops, under the Marquis of Hamilton, to proceed thence to the
Downs. He prays for a strong gale to take away the soldiers*
* In the following year the duke challenged Sir Francis Vere. The latter had defended
Ostend against the Archduke Albert in 1601, and Northumberland, who had joined the
fleet, was present at the siege.
f This jovial monarch was however, fond of display, A writer of the period informs
ue that the king's pages and the guards of his person were dressed in blue velvet,
embroidered with silver lace. They wore white hats with silver bands, and white and blue
stockings. His trumpeters had white-satin doublets, and blue-velvet hose trimmed with
silk and silver lace; their cloaks were of sundry colours, their hats white with blue and
gold bands. His sommon soldiers wore white doublets, and blue hose trimmed with white
lace; and the sergeant who led the trumpeters wore a coat of carnation velvet.
GREAT YARMOUTH
159
stomachs," as he was badly supplied with victuals, he arrived in
Yarmouth Roads "at the same instant as the Scots ships came in" with
6,000 men; but fortunately Sir James Ramsay also arrived with
provisions. This was in July; and in September he returned to take on
board Sir Henry Vane, going out as Ambassador to Sweden.
"Tomorrow," says he, "we must drink water, for our beer is all gone."
After considerable delay Sir Henry was landed at Gluckstadt. In the
following year Pennington was employed to convey the Earl of Leicester
from Yarmouth to Hamburgh, and was requested to provide the
necessary supplies. Lord Leicester said, be should have at his table eight
or nine gentlemen, some ten gentleman-attendants and twenty serving
men, footmen, and cooks. He promises to send "a buck or two baked in
pies, and four or five of the fairest chimes of beef pickled, and some
wine." In 1636 the Earl of Northumberland, K.G. (son of the last-
mentioned earl), being in Yarmouth Roads with six ships, landed, and was
entertained at the house of Mr. Bailiff Johnson at the town's charge; on
which occasion half a pound of gunpowder was served out to every
"musketeer who appeared with his arms complete, to do honor to the
Lord General of His Majesty's Navy," as the earl was styled. In 1642 the
civil war having broken out, the queen who had fled to Holland busied
herself in procuring arms and ammunition for the king's service, and
considerable supplies were sent to England.* One of the queen's ships
meeting with bad weather, sprung aleak, which, compelled her to put
into Yarmouth, where she was detained. One hundred and fifty soldiers
who were found on board were disarmed and
* It is well known that Charles I. kept up a constant correspondence with Queen
Henrietta Maria. Writing from Newcastle in 1648 he informed her that Hudson (who had
been the king's guide to the Scots army) had "been sent expressly to assure him that most
of his eastern and other counties were resolved to rise in arms and declare for him, by
putting a great body of men into the field and possessing all the important places," upon
certain conditions respecting which he had sent Hudson away "well satisfied." He added,
"Now, I assure you, I neither have nor do build anything on this design (though I could
but embrace it), for I go on in my affairs as if this were not. I desire thee not to take
notice, only command Sir Thomas Glemham to come to Lynn as soon as he can, where
his friends and mine will tell him what to do." The fate of Hudson's endeavour to effect a
rising in favour of the king, which did not come off until June, 1648, is detailed in Peck's
Desid. Curiosa, ii. p. 378.
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THE PERLUSTRATION OF
secured until they could be sent by sea to London, in safe custody. The ship was
adjudged to be a lawful prize. She was fitted out by the town, and called The
Adventure 1 . John Purvis was appointed captain, and subsequently Capt. Welch,
and she took several prizes presumed to be royalists; but on the other hand a
number of armed vessels fitted out at other ports, and assuming to be royalists
plundered the Yarmouth traders on pretence of their being rebels. Such are the
distractions of civil war. In 1643 an order of Parliament was received
authorising the recorder to consult with the bailiffs, merchants, and inhabitants,
as to advancing money to provide a winter guard for ships upon the sea coast;
the expense to be secured upon the customs or by some other means. A
committee was appointed, but nothing more appears to have been done at that
time. Rapin 2 , after giving an account of the revolt of the fleet in 1648, says that
the Prince of Wales, afterwards Charles II., who was then in Paris, hastened to
Helvoet Slays, where he was received by the seamen with great respect and joy.
His design was to seize Yarmouth, and while sailing for that port the prince took
a ship of London, bound to Rotterdam laden with cloth, belonging to the
merchant adventurers, valued at £40,000. On the 27th of July eight sail of the
line, having the Prince of Wales on board, anchored in Yarmouth Roads, but the
town having been placed in a posture of defence and no assistance being given
by the inhabitants, the enterprise was abandoned, and the fleet sailed for the
Downs. The bailiffs were thanked by the Parliament for this proof of their
"eminent good affection." In August, 1652, a great many Dutch prisoners of war
were sent into Yarmouth by Admiral Blake; and in the same month Yarmouth
fitted out two small vessels or "scouts" for the service of the state. In this year,
also, the Prince of Orange landed at Yarmouth, "with lingering looks of regret
towards Holland," his principality having been confiscated by Francis I. of
France. In the following year Capt. Wilkes, in the Swan frigate, captured the Sea
Rudder of Autusson in Holland, "at the back of Winterton Sands," brought her
into Yarmouth Roads and delivered her to Major Wilde "and the rest of the
collectors of prize goods." Many Yarmouth fishing vessels were captured by an
Ostend sloop, which was subsequently taken by the Pearl frigate; but ultimately
these depre-
1 See Swinden’s History of Great Yarmouth , pp.557, 558, (section 17 on superdisk)
regarding the Adventure .
2 The History of England , written in French, by Monsieur Rapin De Thoyras, was
translated into English, with additional notes, by N Tindal, M.A., Vicar of Great Waltham,
Essex, 1732.
Most copies now seem to be deteriorating. The print is very small. It would be great to get
this history re-printed and searchable.
GREAT YARMOUTH
161
dations were effectually stopped by Admiral Blake, who sent many of his
prisoners to Yarmouth. In 1660 trade was again harassed "by the Ostenders."
Capt. Robert Wilkinson, commanding the Satisfaction, writing to the
Commissioners of the Admiralty, says that hearing a ship had been taken by
them, he went off and re-took her, and five Ostenders found on board were
lodged in Yarmouth Gaol. He adds that he met Ostend vessels daily, but they
generally out-sailed him. In the same year Capt. Richard Hodges, being on the
Yarmouth station, escorted some Scotch vessels to Leith and then "transported"
General Baynes and his wife to London. (State Papers, p. 42. At this time the
Garland was at Yarmouth, commanded by Capt. Ableson; and also the Hunter
frigate, Capt. Robert Duck, both employed in convoying merchantmen and
protecting the fisheries. In September, 1660, Capt. Seth Hawley having arrived
in Yarmouth Roads in the Rosebud from Ireland, with his convoys all safe,
except a few driven apart by storms, "rejoiced at the wonderful change in the
civil government." (Admiralty Papers, p. 265.) Capt. Robert Wyard, of the Paul
frigate, arriving in the same month from the East,* reported that his ship was
strong and Serviceable, and that he would "gladly show his affection to the
Duke of York, who he desired might be glorious in all his achievements;" and
Capt. Holly, who arrived in the Rosebush, "would gladly proceed in her to show
his attachment to the duke." In September, 1660, Capt. Curle of H. M. S. Maria
was ordered to Yarmouth Roads, "to prevent pretended Portugal men-of-war
from wronging English merchants." (Admiralty Papers, p. 273.) The following,
anecdote testifies that Yarmouth seamen had not lost their audacity and
independence. Edward Watson, then master of a Yarmouth trader, sailing under
the convoy of H. M. S. Fame, Capt. Wright, captured a foreign vessel; at which
Wright was highly indignant. Filing into the trader, he ordered Watson on board
and
* He brought with him two Iceland horses for the king, two for tho duke, and
one for Sir George Carteret; and he reported to the Admiralty that he had discharged
four men "for abuse of their drink at the Orkney Isles." (Admiralty Papers, p.91 )
Capt. Clarke of H. M. S. Little Mary, who discharged some seamen "for not being
able," hoped in his letter to the Admiralty that they would "be found civil at pay day."
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THE PERLUSTRATION OF
demanded his commission, but as he had none Wright abused and assaulted
him, for which indignities Watson petitioned the Admiralty for redress. (State
Papers, p. 10.) In 1665 an expected engagement between the English and
Dutch fleets was watched for with great anxiety by government, who sent
messengers to Yarmouth to gain the earliest intelligence.* Dennis Gauden,
writing to Samuel Pepys in 1665, reports that he had "removed victuals from
Yarmouth, as it was impossible with safety to send any into the Roads in winter
time." (State Papers, p. 86.) In the above year there landed twenty-three seamen
who had been taken prisoners by the Dutch, but who had escaped from Home.
On the 15th of August, 1666; Sir Philip Howard and Colonel Seymour landed
with an account of the attack on Schelling. Yarmouth Roads are too open to be
safe in bad weather, and we find Capt. Lightfoot of H. M. S. Speedwell
representing to the Admiralty in December, 1665, "the danger which so large a
frigate would sustain by continuing there," and instanced " the loss of twenty sail
in the last storm." (State Papers, p. 82.) In 1662 a Dutch vessel in Yarmouth
Roads without a commission, was sent to the Downs for refusing to lower sail to
the king's ships. During a storm, which happened in September, 1671, a Dutch
man-of-war, employed in protecting the Dutch fishing boats, foundered at her
anchor, and all on board perished. The Duke of York being in command of the
fleet anchored in Southwold Bay, a supply of wine and an abundance of fresh
provisions were sent to him as a present from the town; and in the following
year, after the battle of Solebay, some of the wounded officers and men were
landed at Yarmouth (vol. i. , p. 191; State Papers, p. 948). In 1681 the Duke of
York (afterwards James II.) landed at Yarmouth, as has already
* On the 5th June, 1665, the government agents were able to report that a battle
had successfully taken place, and that "the bells are ringing and colours flying,
which displeases some in this town who are friends of the Dutch and have grown
impudent through the negligence of the king's friends," and they add a strange
canard, then circulated, that "the Duke of York had deserted the engagement, and had
gone ashore in disguise, hoping the Dutch would beat, and then down would go the
bishops" About this time Capt. William Hill of H. M. S. Coventry, writing to Secretary
Pepy a, ascribes a report of the plague being among his crew to Sir Thomas Medowe, who
he says "may be an honest man to the king, but no wise man in his actions," (See vol. i.,
p. 153.)
GREAT YARMOUTH
163
been mentioned (vol. ii., p. 97). Prince George of Denmark landed in
1687, and "took post for Windsor the same day." In 1689 Capt.Minns,
in command of the Saffire, was here.* Admiral Benbow, one of the
most popular of naval commanders, landed here in 1696, having been in
pursuit of Du Brat on the coast of Norway; and the town presented him
with a bountiful supply of fresh provisions. f On the 16th of March,
1696, Capt. Withart, in command of a squadron of men-of-war,
anchored in Yarmouth Boads, In the following year the Garland, the
Winchelsea, the Mermaid, and the Bedford were on this station. When
Queen Anne proclaimed war against France, in consequence of Louis
XIV. having acknowledged the pretender, a French ship was forthwith
captured and brought into Yarmouth Harbour, and her crew lodged in
gaol. In 1705 the Marquis of Carmarthen, K.G., t Vice-Admiral of the
Red, arrived with his squadron in Yarmouth Roads and landed at the
Jetty. Presents of fresh provisions were sent off to his ship. The
unfortunate Admiral Byng landed from the Stately, 74, on his return
from the Baltic in 1709. (See vol. ii., p. 160.) On the 27th of June, 1711,
the Advice man-of-war, commanded by Lord Duffus, was attacked in
Yarmouth Roads by eight Dunkirk privateers.§ She shewed fight, and
did not strike her flag until two-thirds of her crew were killed or
wounded, including her noble captain who was desperately
* Son of Sir Christopher Minns, killed in the great naval battle with the Dutch in
1666. He offered Dean Davies to make him chaplain of his ship, "averring it to be worth
£60 per annum, besides all accommodation." The Dean was too wise to accept this, offer,
for the position of chaplain on board a man-of-war was then and for many years
afterwards a very uncomfortable one. He was not allowed to mess in the ward room, and
was subjected to great indignities.
f His name will always live in Hood's song, where he makes & forlorn damsel
say— " For they have taken my beau Ben
" To sail with old Benbow;"
and then she commiserates his fate by adding—
" they put him on board a tender,
" What a hardship that must be .'"
t Sir Thomas Osborne, elevated to the peerage in 1673 as Baron Osborne, was in the
next year created Earl of Danby and Marquis of Carmarthen. He died in 1712.
§ Yarmouth had cause to lament the disgraceful sale of Dunkirk, to Louis XIV.; for
whenever war broke out that port became the resort of privateers, who greatly harassed
her trade. See Combe's History of the Sale of Dunkirk published in 1748.
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THE PERLUSTRATION OF
hurt, and was kept a close prisoner till the conclusion of peace.* In 1715
some Dutch troops having arrived in Yarmouth Roads, the men were
landed, "treated" by the corporation, and re-embarked, for which
hospitality the town was thanked by Lord Townshend, then one of the
principal Secretaries of State. On the 19th of October, 1739, war was
proclaimed against Spain; and it was not long before-the Yarmouth
shipowners begaa to sutler. Among other captures were the Vigilance,
Hill, on a voyage to Civita Vecchia; the Hare, Goodwin; the Charming
Peggy, with wine from Oporto; the William and Mary, Palgrave, from
Ancona; and many others. These losses were increased when, in 1744,
war was declared against France. The Dolphin, Wilson, on her voyage
to Rotterdam, and the Prince William, Palmer, from Oporto, were
captured and carried into Dunkirk ; as were also the Buxton, the John
and Mary, and many more. On the other hand H. M. S. Hawke (Capt.
Shirley), brought in a large Dutch flyboat, estimated to be worth
£30,000 ; and many captures of the enemy's merchantmen were made. In
1746 the Benjamin and Anne of Yarmouth, Sayers master, was taken
and carried into Cherbourg. Lord Rodney, f : then a very young captain,
was appointed to the Centurion in 1742, and in that ship cruised for two
years on the North Sea, and commanded on this station while the
pretender was in Edinburgh. In the same year Lord Carteret landed.
He had embarked at the Hague, and had been driven as far
* Lord Duffus joined the pretender in 1715; on whose defeat he escaped to the
continent, but having been captured at Hamburgh was brought back and sent to the
Tower. In 1717 he was released under the Act of Grace, and withdrew to Russia, where he
obtained the rank of admiral, and married Charlotte, daughter of Erick da Sioblade,
Governor of Gottanburg, and died about 1730, leaving a son, the father of James Lord
Duffus, to whom, the family honors wore restored in 1826.
f He was the godson of George II., and entered the navy at twelve years of age under
a royal "letter of service," the last ever granted; and attained the rank of captain when,
twenty-four years of age. The corporation voted the freedom of the borough to Lord
Rodney after his victory over the French fleet in the West Indies in 1782; which vote was
personally communicated to him by Mr. Townshend and Mr. Walpole, the then Members
for the Borough, on the return of the admiral to England, who in his reply modestly
attributed his success to the gallantry of the officers and men whom he had the honor to
command. Mr, Townshend, in a letter to Mr. Palgrave (the then mayor), gave an account
of his visit to Lord Rodney. See P.C. p. 267.)
GREAT YARMOUTH
165
as Hull in a storm. He was so well pleased at landing that he gave the
captain of the vessel one hundred guineas, with ten guineas to the
lieutenant, and a sum of money to the crew. In 1744 Capt. Ormond
Tomson and the crew of H. M. S. Rye landed here, having lost their
vessel about six leagues out. In 1745 La Soldi, a French ship,
proceeding with some officers of distinction to join the rebels in
Scotland, was captured off Yarmouth by the Sheerness man-of-war. In
the same year a French privateer was forced on shore by two king's
ships, and all her crew perished. In 1747 the North Star, French
privateer of twenty guns and ninety-four men, and the Charron privateer
of Dunkirk, were captured and brought in; and in the following year Le
Frere Aisne of Boulogne was taken by the Dispatch sloop, Capt.
Barnsley. On the other hand the trade of the port greatly suffered. The
Thomas and William, the Sarah, Pigeon, the Anna, Harrison, the
Richard, Hurst, and a ship bringing to Yarmouth the equipage and
horses of a nobleman were all taken by the enemy and had to be
ransomed. Peace with France and Spain was proclaimed at the Market
Cross with great joy on the 7th of February, 1749 and a day of general
thanksgiving was observed. War with France having again broken out,
the Amerique, 600 tons, from St. Domingo, was in 1757 brought in by
H. M. S. Squirrel, having on board a cargo valued at £150,000 . The
Dispatch sloop brought in three vessels laden with corn for the French
army. In the next year the Ranger, Round, and Peggy, sloops-of-war,
captured a Dunkirk privateer, the Vandanger, carrying forty-nine men.
But the shipowners again suffered. The John and Mary, Simpson, was
taken and ransomed for £250; and many other Yarmouth vessels shared
a similar fate. In 1761 H. M. sloop Swan brought in a French privateer
of superior force, "which seemed so much astonished at seeing the
English flag that she struck her colours without firing a shot." Her crew
of thirty men were sent to prison; and a few days later a Dunkirk
privateer was captured, which had done much mischief to coasters, and
had 1,200 guineas on board, the fruit of numerous ransoms. Her crew of
seventy-seven men were landed and lodged in Gaol, which was guarded
by the Norfolk Militia. In August of this year Lord Anson's fleet was
seen outside the sands, having been driven out of their course by
contrary winds.
166
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
A merchantman having been taken by a French cutter, four men were
put on board the prize, the master and mate only remaining in her. The
latter rose on the Frenchmen and drove them into the cabin. The next
day one of the Frenchmen attempted to run the master through the body,
but the mate disarmed and dispatched him. Another Frenchman fired a
pistol at the mate but missed him, and the master then killed the
Frenchman and threw the body overboard. The remaining two French-
men were compelled to bring the vessel to Yarmouth, and were then
lodged in the Gaol. Numerous as were the prizes brought in, it is not to
be supposed that the English had it all their own way. The losses
sustained by ship-owners were very heavy. On one occasion this year
fifteen, vessels sailed from the port, of which eleven were speedily
captured by the enemy. In 1762 H. M. S. Humber was lost on
Hasborough Sand during a very severe gale; and many vessels
belonging to Yarmouth were stranded. H. M. S. Swan lost her masts and
threw her guns overboard. In 1763 twenty-two sail of transports came
into the Roads with troops from Williamstadt. Seven hundred men
under the command of General Hodgson, landed here, and a few days
afterwards marched to Norwich en route for London. A battalion of the
third Regiment of Guards also landed and "made a fine appearance."
Some troops of the Oxford Blues were brought into the harbour and
landed with their horses; and some days afterwards marched to Beccles.
In 1763 fifty of Bland's dragoons arrived from Germany, and were
disbanded A transport commanded by Capt. Hume of Yarmouth
brought in and landed six hundred Highlanders from Germany. Lord
Malmesbury informs us (Letters ii., p. 140) that Madame la Perri è re,*
the wife of the Sardinian Ambassador to the Court of St. James', coming
from the Hague in 1765 was driven north, and the vessel ran aground on
a sand in the vicinity of Yarmouth and was nearly lost. In 1768 a ship,
called the Lady Agatha from Hamburgh, was lost in these Roads. Her
cargo was estimated at £50,000. Another King of Denmark visited
England in 1768. Sylas Neville called him "a woman-like painted
puppy." Being at the Theatre, Neville says "I was within a yard of "the
Danish tyrant. O heaven! what an instance of the corruption of
* She was an Englishwoman, n Speed, celebrated for her wit.
GREAT YARMOUTH
167
mankind, that a great nation should submit to the will—nay the absolute
will—of a puny vicious boy, unfit to govern himself, and made for the
distaff (like Sardanapalus) and not for the rod of power." His majesty,
who was under twenty years of age, was received in this country with
great distinction. He paid a visit to Cambridge; but came no nearer to
Yarmouth. In 1773 Capt. Lutwich landed from the Carcase, in which
vessel he had been on an expedition to the North Pole, having on board
Horatio Nelson, then a lad; who was soon after his return transfered to
the Seahorse, Capt. Farmer, with whom he went to the East Indies. In
August, 1781, Nelson, then a commander, was commissioned to the
Albemarle; and kept during the remainder of the year in the North Sea.
Sailing from Yarmouth Roads, Nelson arrived in the Downs on the 3rd
of January, 1782; and when on shore paying his respects to the senior
officer a heavy gale arose, during which the Albemarle lost her bowsprit
and foremast; and in the midst of the storm Nelson insisted upon being
put on board. In 1783 he was appointed to the Boreas frigate of 28
guns, and ordered to the Leeward Island station. He returned in 1787,
and resided for some time at his native village of Burnham Thorpe. Sir
Charles Douglas and other officers landed in 1787, bringing the news
that 30,000 Prussian troops were within two days' march of the Hague,
and that there had been great riots attended wibh bloodshed at Helvoet
Sluys. In 1791 Sir Charles Knowles arrived on the impress service; and
a cutter was stationed in the Roads to take away the impressed men. In
January, 1793, the ministry, notwithstanding their pacific intentions,
found an appeal to arms inevitable. Nelson, then at Burnham Thorpe,
was appointed to the Agamemnon; and immediately after joining, he
says in a letter to his wife, that he had "sent out a lieutenant and four
raids to get men in Norfolk, and forward them to Lynn and Yarmouth."
The necessity for the British army, under the Duke of York, going into
winter quarters in November, 1793, gave rise to a handsome
subscription here towards providing the troops with warm clothing. The
first prize taken after the breaking out of the war with France in 1793
was the Custine French privateer, brought into these Roads by H. M. S.
Savage. In 1794 Earl Spencer and Mr. Grenville landed after a stormy
168
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
passage. It had taken them four weeks to fravel from Vienna to the port
of embarkation. On the 26th of February, 1795, the Courier packet,
Capt. Thompson, sailed for Cuxhaven, having on board the Prince de
Casticicala, the Greffier Fagel, Count Bentinct, and other distinguished
foreigners. About the same time the Prime of Wales, cutter, when at sea,
fell in with a small boat and four men, one of whom proved to be a
king's messenger from the British army at Deventer. They were taken
on board and landed at Yarmouth, their boat being east adrift. In 1794
several transports anchored in the Roads with troops which had
evacuated Holland.* In the month of May the Earl of Balcarres landed
with the 63rd Regiment of the Line (the Suffolk), nearly 600 strong.
They "marched into barracks in high spirits," although they had many
sick and wounded. The last boats landed sixty women and children.
They remained here some time under the
* Sir James McGrigor, then Surgeon to the 88th or Connaught Rangers, a newly-
raised regiment, says he was carried on board sick and insensible from fever, but he adds
"at sea I gained appetite and strength wonderfully; and by the time we cast anchor at
Yarmouth I was able to come on deck; and we then enjoyed, what had for some time been
unknown to us, English wheaten bread, butter, and milk, with tea and sugar. By the time
the regiment reached Norwich I had nearly recovered from my extremely debilitated state;
and it was well I got into health, for a very heavy press of duty devolved upon me. Several
of the other regiments returned also from the continent; and of these the 53rd and the 2nd
Dragoon Guards and others landed at Yarmouth, and were sent to Norwich; which had a
very strong garrison on account of the turbulent state of the population. "At this period,"
says Sir James, "the revolutionary feeling had found its way from France to England, "
and in no place was the admiration of what had been effected in France, together with the
spirit of republicanism, greater than in Norwich. On our first arrival the officers could
hardly appear in the streets without insult from the populace. At night, if they went out,
they were knocked down; and attempts were made to sow disaffection among the soldiers.
Desertions became frequent; and at length so numerous that it was no unusual occurrence
for twenty or thirty men of the garrison to desert in a night. We found there was a society
in Norwich for the encouragement of desertion. It was amply supplied with funds; and the
members' secreted the soldiers, provided thorn with coloured clothes and money, and then
dispatched them to their respective homes. At this time typhus fever broke out in every
regiment in the garrison; and committed dreadful havoc. A large building was hired for
the reception of the worst cases; and as senior surgeon I assumed the superintendence of
the whole, and took my orders from General Johnstone, who commanded the troops at
Norwich." Autobiography of Sir James McGrigor, p. 39.
GREAT YARMOUTH
169
command of Lieut.-Colonel J. Leveson Gower.* During the year 1794
Holland was overrun by the French troops, and a revolutionary
government having been established under the style of the Batavian
Republic, England found it her duly to weaken the maritime power of
this new ally of her great enemy. Accordingly in January, 1795, orders
were received at Yarmouth to seize and detain all Dutch vessels, and a
small British squadron, came into Yarmouth Roads, under the command
of Vice-Admiral Duncan, with orders to watch the motions of the Dutch
fleet lying in the Texel. In 1795 the body of the Right Hon. Lord E. H.
J. Spencer, second son of the Duke of Marlborough, late Ambassador at
Berlin, was landed at Yarmouth from the Courier packet, Capt.
Thompson. f In 1795 Capt. (afterwards Rear-Admiral) James Carthew
joined the North-Sea fleet in the Brilliant frigate. t In
*A liberal subscription was entered into for the relief of the sick and wounded; and
on the king's birthday the whole regiment had a dinner given to them by the inhabitants;
each soldier being allowed nearly 2lbs. of beef and pudding, with an ample supply of
bread and potatoes, washed down by a quart of porter.
f The corpse was sent away to its final resting place in grand funereal pomp; but
when the procession was passings through Aylesbury, five days afterwards, the coffin,
which had been much shaken on the rough roads of the continent, fell to pieces, and
presented the corpse in a shocking state, the death having occurred, just three months
previous.
t He also commanded the Astroea., 32; and the Crescent , 36, both attached to the
Yarmouth station. He died in 1856, aged 86. His elder brother, John Oar the w of
Liskoard, was private secretary to Mr. Pitt, and afterwards Master of the Mint.
There was another admiral of this name, "William Carthew, who was the eldest son
of the Rev. Thomas Carthew of "Woodbridge Abbey, Suffolk, by his first wife,
Elisabeth, daughter of the Rev. Thomas Morden. He and his brother Thomas, who
was an officer of marines, were serving on board the Hannibal 1 when that ship was
captured in 1782 on her way to the East Indies, by a superior French force under
Suffrein, who had the barbarity to hand them over to Hyder Ali. By that despot
they were marched in irons to Bangalore, and there chained together by the legs.
After enduring many indignities and privations they were released under the treaty
of 1784 and returned home, having been by their friends long given up as lost.
Lieut. Carthew, at the instance of Sir John Jervis, was next appointed to the Prince,
98; and having been made a commander was employed to convoy Prince Edward,
afterwards Duke of Kent, to Canada with troops; in which service he offended His
Royal Highness by refusing to allow court martials on the soldiers to be held on
board his ship; which conduct was approved by the Admiralty. On the breaking
out of the war with the French Republic, he commanded a ship on the coast of
1 Here is some of the history of the Hannibal The Hannibal, by 1859, had been converted
to steam as well as sail. It was the Commanded by Captain Gordon, and was serving in the
Mediterranean, where it acted as troop transport, sailing and steaming around the Med.,
carrying soldiers and sailors from port to port. Gerard Noel was on board this ship as a
naval cadet, during 1859 and 1860, and drew in great detail the ships passage from day to
day. In addition, he recorded the hours sailed, and those steamed. This and another map
that he drew, came into my possession when left in a battered rusty map tube, at Hopton
Hall, which I purchased from Sir Gerard Noel’s grand-daughter, Susan, in 1989. I have the
map framed, and many pictures also of Admiral Sir Gerard Uctred Noel taken when
posted as Admiral of the Nore, to Japan, in 1906. The Hannibal eventually became a
floating berth for troops at Plymouth, dismasted and dis-gunned. There is a photo of
Hannibal in that state, in the Plymouth docks, where the Victory is now. The Victory was
the ship that Noel was next posted to from the Hannibal. The logs of the Hannibal are
preserved in the Public Record Office at Kew. The photo of the ship can be found in The
Last Sailing Battlefleet , by Andrew Lambert, 1991, p.84. According to Lambert, the
Hannibal was a 90 gunner, converted to steam. She was one of the ships built by Symonds
in the 1840’s but a date for her being laid down is not given, leading me to think that this
was then a rebuild of an earlier ship.
170 THE PERLUSTRATION OF
the same year Admiral Sir Willoughby Lake, then a captain, had the
command of the Weazle, sloop-of-war, stationed between Yarmouth and
Flamborough Head, for the protection of the fishery. Early in the spring
of 1795 the Duke of Wellington, then, Colonel Wellesley, landed with
his regiment (the 33rd) at Harwich, and marched with it to Warley in
Essex, where a camp was formed.* On the 2nd of September, 1795, H.
M. S. Carysford arrived in Yarmouth Roads and landed the Duo de
Bourbon, the Marquis Vandreul, and several other French noblemen. In
the same month the Duchess of Cumberland and the Hon. Mrs. Luttrell
arrived, and shortly afterwards embarked on board the King George
packet, Capt. Deane, for Cuxhaven; and at the same time the Countess
Cowper embarked on board the Prince of Orange, Capt. Bridge, for the
same port. In October following, the Bishop of Winchester (Hon.
Brownlow North) and family arrived in the Daedalus frigate from
Hamburgh. This vessel and another frigate convoyed some transports
with troops, one of which was lost on the Scroby Sand and forty-three
horses perished. In February, 1796, a vessel arrived laden with corn,
which some English sailors, prisoners at Brest, had seized there, and in
which
Holland, under Admiral McBride. After many years of active and meritorious service he
retired to Woodbridge, and, having attained the rank of rear-admiral, died there in 1837,
aged 70. He married Pleasance, daughter of Graham Thomas Myers, Esq., only brother of
General Sir W. Myers, Bart., K.C.B., but left no issue. The Carthews were originally a
Cornish family, and bore for their arms or., a chev. sa., between three marrs ppr. Crest,
on a wreath of the colours a marr ; ducally gorged or.; and for a motto, Bedhoh fyr ha hob
drok. The first-named admiral bore a chev. gu. for difference. Under the will of Edward
North, Esq., of Benacre, who died in 1708, that estate came to his nephew, Thomas
Carthew, Esq., of the Inner Temple, who in about the year 1721 erected Benacre Hall,
where he resided until 1743 when it was sold to Sir William Gooch, Bart, (see vol. ii., p.
99), who made it the family seat. This Thomas Carthew married Sarah, daughter of Sir
Thomas Powys, Knt., a Judge of the Court of Queen's Bench. Many members of the
Carthew family are buried in Benacre Church. The hall is now leased to Earl Dudley. 1
* Detachments of the 33rd Regiment were quartered at Yarmouth in 1872.
f Among other refugees well known in Yarmouth was the Marquis Spoleto, who
took up his abode at Cambridge, where he taught languages in a manner at least
satisfactory to himself. "Have you many pupils this term?" said Macleane, afterwards
Principal of Brighton College. "Vel, I ave vone in Hebrew," was the reply. " I had no idea,
you know Hebrew," observed Macleans. "Yel no; not exactly," said the Italian, " but then,
you see, we do not begin for vone five week."
1 The hall was divided into apartments, sold off after a grand auction of the contents
in 2000 (See RRH).
GREAT YARMOUTH
171
they had made their escape. On the 24th of June following Admiral
McBride came into these Roads in command of a very powerful fleet.
Most of the captains serving under him were afterwards highly
distinguished; as Sir Richard Bickerton in the Ramillies, 74 ; Capt.
Thornborough in the Robust, 74; Capt. Halsted in the Phoenix, 36; Capt.
Pellew in the Amphion, 32; and Capt. Hardy in the Badger, 16. Three
Russian men-of-war also came in under the command of Admiral Tate. At
this time Capt. (afterwards Vice-Admiral) Winthrop commanded the
Circe, 28 guns, on the Yarmouth station. She was afterwards engaged in
the capture of the Helder. Napoleon had by this time made his name
known in the world, and a French, privateer, called the Buonaparte,
mounting 18 guns, was captured off the Texel and brought into
Yarmouth.* In September, 1796, Admiral McBride came into these
Roads, and hauled down his flag on board the Russell; and was
succeeded by Admiral Duncan, who soon afterwards shifted his flag to
the Venerable. On the 28th of February, 1797, Mr. Hunter, sen., a King's
messenger destined for Vienna with important dispatches, embarked at
Yarmouth, but after being at sea for six days was driven back. On the
29th of May, 1797, the Lion, Standard, and Belliquex men-of-war came
into Yarmouth Roads With the red flag flying at the topgallant mast-head
of each vessel. The mutiny at the Nore had broken out. The Nassau and
other vessels then lying in the Roadstead followed the example. The
delegates sent an officer on shore, who waited on the mayor to dispel
any alarm which might be felt by the inhabitants when they heard the
guns, as it was the intention of the mutineers to fire the usual salute in
honor of the day (the restoration of Charles II.); and later some of the
delegates landed, and sought an interview with the chief magistrate, to
assure him that although resolved to have their
* She had a numerous crew, who, with others amounting in all to 196 prisoners of
war, were soon afterwards marched from Yarmouth to Stilton. Later in the year 140
French and Dutch prisoners were marched to Yaxley Barracks. As they came out of
prison the captain of a privateer mingled with the crowd and effected his escape. During
the following years, until the termination, of the war, prisoners were being constantly
landed and marched to depots at a distance from the coast.
f Admiral Duncan arrived in the Glasgow frigate, 36 guns, commanded by Capt.
Duff.
172
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
grievances redressed, it was their intention to preserve order. On the
following day the whole fleet sailed for the Nore, The North-Sea fleet
had been so thinned, says James, by the secession of the disaffected
ships, that Admiral Duncan towards the end of May, found himself at
sea with only the Venerable, 74, and the Adamant, 50. Nevertheless he
proceeded to his station off theTexel; within which harbour was
anchored, the Dutch fleet comprising fifteen sail of the line, under the
command of Vice-Admiral de Winter, At length several line of battle
ships joined the British admiral, so that by the end of the summer the
two fleets became of about equal force. A succession of equinoctial
gales and the want of supplies compelled Admiral Duncan to quit his
station and retire into Yarmouth Roads, where, on the 9th of October,
1797, he received intelligence that de Winter had embraced the
opportunity of putting to sea for the purpose of joining the French fleet
at Brest. Duncan immediately went forth to meet the foe, and on the
11th of October the memorable battle of Camperdown was fought.
Vice-Admiral Onslow, who was second in command, with his flag
flying in the Monarch, broke the enemy's line and commenced a close
combat, and although that ship received greater injury than any other
(except the Ardent), she compelled the Jupiter, 74, with the flag of
Vice-Admiral Reyntjes on board, to strike to her. The English fleet
returned to Yarmouth Roads in triumph, bringing with them eight sail of
the line and two fifty-gun ships; and were received with frantic
demonstrations of joy, the town being crowded to excess with visitors.*
The admiral's
* The universal satisfaction caused by the victory of Camperdown, excited many
local poetical effusions. One contains these stanzas:—
" Let every British heart exult, and fame his deeds define,
" Who dar'd to practice what he taught, and broke the threatening line."
Your plaudits now unite to give, with voice, and heart, and hand;
" Great Duncan lives no more we fear proud Gallia's hostile band.
Now Dutchmen rue the fatal day, they joined the bloody train;
" Their sordid souls in secret curse the bribe which forg'd the chain.
" At Onslow’ s name they shrink appalled, and from his cannon fly;"
Enslav'd for life, compell'd to fight, and yet afraid to die,
" The people closely crowd the beach, the conquering band to hail;"
And eager look with trembling eyes, upon each tattered sail.
" Their wounded brethren to their hearts, they cordial welcome home;
" And shed for those compassion's tear, who found a watery tomb."
GREAT YARMOUTH
173
wife, Henrietta, second daughter of the Right Hon.Robert Dundas, on
hearing the news hastened to the beach, and was on the Jetty to receive
her victorious husband when he landed. Five days after the battle of
Camperdown the Monmouth, 64, commanded by Capt. (afterwards Rear-
Admiral) Walker, was seen to enter Yarmouth Boads having in tow the
Alkmaar, Dutch ship of the line, which she had captured, after having
been for one hour and a half closely engaged with her and the Delft, and
having subsequently encountered a heavy gale. The Delft, foundered, but
the greater part of her crew were saved. The loss of the English at the
battle of Camperdown in killed and wounded, was 1,040; and that of the
Dutch considerably more. It took three days to land the wounded at
Yarmouth, where both friend and foe were treated with the utmost care
and kindness.* One of the most distinguished of Duncan's captains was
Trollope, who in 1797, when in command of the Russell, 74, watched
the enemy's fleet in the Texel when the admiral returned to Yarmouth
Koads to refit. He had previously commanded the Glatton, 56; and in
1796, when cruising off Helvoet Sluys, he sailed into the midst of a
French squadron, mistaking it for the British. Nothing daunted, he
attacked two of the largest ships, going between them and pouring in a
heavy fire on both sides, and fiually the whole squadron took to flight.
Trollope returned into Yarmouth Roads, where he was received with
loud applause. He was presented with the freedom of the borough; he
died an admiral and a K.C.B. in 1839, aged 84.
The news of the battle of the Nile, which was fought on the 1st of
August, 1798; was not known at Yarmouth until early in October, when
* A rare engraving, from " a drawing on the spot," by Rowlandson, in his peculiar
and most effective style, of the landing of the wounded at Yarmouth after the battle of
Camperdown, has been copied expressly for this worthy the autotype process.
Rowlandson, whose engravings in the Tour of Dr. Syntax and other well-known works
will long he admired, was born in 1756, and was contemporary with Grose, Bunbury, and
Gillray. He died in 1827. Some of the wounded sailors were sent to Norwich, where they
were lodged in barracks in St. George's Colegate, described by the surgeons as a very
close part of the city, and some of the worst cases were afterwards admitted into the
Norfolk and Norwich Hospital, and placed under the charge of Mr. Doune and Mr.
Martineau. A man from the Monmouth, whose arm was amputated, when nearly well,
escaped over a wall of considerable height, and got so intoxicated that in endeavouring to
return he fell and hurt the stump so much that he died.
174
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
Capt. Capel, son of the Earl of Essex, landed with dispatches. It was
received with great joy throughout the County of Norfolk.*
When Duncan resigned his command he was succeeded by Sir
Richard Onslow, who hoisted his flag on board the Monarch, 74, Capt.
O'Brien. f
Chateaubriand landed at Yarmouth Jetty in 1796, t and was followed
by Niebuhr in 1798.§ On the 16th of September in the latter year,
Wordsworth and Coleridge embarked at Yarmouth for the continent.
Campbell, the poet, when he first left Scotland, landed at Yarmouth. In
1798 the widow of that wild enthusiast, Lord Edward Fitzgerald, who
two months previously had died of the wounds received when captured
by Capt. Ryan, whom he killed, and by Justice Swan, whom he
wounded, embarked at Yarmouth for Hamburgh. She was attended to
the packet by her brother-in-law, Lord Henry Fitzgerald.|| In July of this
year Lord Duncan returned and took the command of the North-Sea
fleet, hoisting his flag on board the Belliquex which ship he subsequently
changed for the Kent. In the following month Lord Elgin, the
* The following entry was made in the parish register of Brandon Parva. Said a
prayer for Admiral Nelson's glorious victory over the French fleet at Alexandria in Egypt,
for which he was made a lord, and is own brother to the Rev. Mr. Nelson, Rector of this
parish. The latter succeeded his heroic brother in the peerage, and was created an earl, but
added nothing to the lustre of the name.
f Captain (afterwards Admiral) Sutton was for a short time flag-captain to Sir
Richard Onslow in the Monarch. He died at Ditchingham Lodge, near Bungay, in 1832,
aged 72.
t He for some time resided at Bungay. He returned to France in 1800, and died at
Paris in 1848. He was made Minister of State by Louis XVIII.
§ This distinguished Danish historian was then only twenty years of age. Bunsen
says that his letters to his parents, written from England and containing many details of
great interest, were unfortunately burnt. He died in 1831.
They had already made themselves famous, especially by the recent publication of
the Lyrical Ballads, among which the Ancient Mariner first appeared. Wedgewood
generously contributed to Coleridge's pecuniary means to enable him to take this tour, of
which the only records are a few letters in the Biographic Literaria, but the fruits of
which are apparent in his subsequent works. Smile's Group of Englishmen, .p. 98.
|| This was the beautiful, and unfortunate Pamela, the supposed daughter of the Duc
d’ Orleans (Egalité) and Madame de Genlis. She was on her way to Hamburgh where she
resided for some time; but ultimately retired to Toulouse, where she died in 1831, Aged
57.
GREAT YARMOUTH
175
British Ambassador at Berlin, landed; and the Princess of Hesse sailed
for the continent. Count Rumford was also among the arrivals. Before
Christmas Lord Duncan came in and struck his flag; and was succeeded
in his command by Admiral Dickson. In this year H.R.H. the Duke of
Gloucester came to Yarmouth (but not by sea, having been staying at
Norwich), and put up at the Wrestlers. On the 17th of December, 1798,
Mr. Mares, a king's messenger came to Yarmouth with dispatches for
the continent, and embarked in a packet for Cuxhaven, but in
consequence of the ice could not land, and the packet after being ten
days at sea was compelled to return to Yarmouth. On the 1st of January
following he made another attempt, but after being eleven, days at sea
without being able to land, was again obliged to return. In the bleak
month of January, 1799, landed Capt. Halkett and the survivors of the
Apollo frigate, 38 guns, which had been lost on the coast of Holland.
Capt. Halkett was tried here by court-martial and acquitted; but the pilot
was broke. On the 28th. of the same month the Right Honorable
Thomas Grenville,* Special Envoy at Berlin, who had iu the previous
December embarked in the Amphion, but had be em compelled to return
not being able to effect a landing as the Elbe was then frozen, went on
board the Proserpine frigate, 28 guns, apt. James Wallis. He was
received on the quarter-deck by a salute; and the frigate was got
underway with a fresh breeze at W.S.W. On the 30th she reached
Heligoland, where she took a pilot for the Elbe, on reaching which it
was found that all the buoys had been removed. The Prince of Wales
packet boat, which had accompanied the frigate from Yarmouth, then
went ahead to lead the way, and the frigate would have made good her
passage had it not been for a blinding snow storm, accompanied by
heavy masses of ice, which compelled her to retrace her course, in doing
which she struck upon the Scaron Sand, where she became a complete
wreck. The officers and crew, with the envoy and his suite, made their
escape across the ice, and his excellency after enduring great hardships
eventually reached his place of destination. Three king's messengers,
Mason, Shaw, and Detry (the latter an extra
* He was not successful, as a negotiator; and will be best remembered by his
gift of a splendid library now in the British Museum. He died in 1846, aged 91.
176
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
one), were on board the Proserpine, but escaped with their lives.* On
the 23rd of January in the same year (1799) two king's messengers (Mr.
East and Mr. Hunter, sen.) embarked for Cuxhaven, one for St.
Petersburg, the other for Vienna. The packet was wrecked on the Island
of Newark near Cuxhaven, but the messengers got on shore with their
dispatches, and proceeded to their respective destinations. In April,
1799, there arrived a fly-boat having on board the body of Mr.
Cornwallis, son of the Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, which was
forwarded to Brome for interment. f On the 12th of May the Courier
cutter, commanded by Lieut. Searle, left Yarmouth Roads to join the
Latona frigate off the Texel. Having observed an armed brig off
Winterton in the act of capturing a merchant vessel, he made sail and
brought her to close action. The brig proved to be a French privateer,
carrying 16 guns. After a fight of nearly two hours the Frenchman made
off, and was lost in the darkness of night. At day-
* Two females were on hoard the Proserpine when she was stranded,—one a strong
healthy woman, and accustomed to the hardships of the sea; the other a weak and delicate
creature who had never been on hoard a ship until the evening previous to sailing. Her
husband had been impressed, and she went on board to bid him farewell, when owing to a
change of weather and the urgency of the mission, the ship put to sea. This alone was a
great discomfort as she was expecting her confinement, and in a few hours she was
delivered of a dead child. In this weak state she was compelled to leave the wreck to travel
through ice and snow, and to combat with the bitter north wind, hail, and sleet. The more
robust woman had an infant nine months old, which was frozen in the mother's arms, and
she herself sank down in the snow and perished; but the more delicate one, strange to say,
performed her perilous journey (in which twelve of the ship's crew perished) and was
preserved. A "narrative" of the loss of the Proserpine was compiled by John Wright, first
lieutenant, and published in 1799. Capt. Wallis on his return to Yarmouth was tried by
court-martial, and honorably acquitted.
t The estate of Brome in Suffolk was acquired in the 14th century by the marriage of
John Cornwallis with Phillippe, daughter and co-heir of Robert Buxton or Buckton, and
continued with their descendants for four centuries. On the death of Charles, second
Marquis Cornwallis, in 1823, s.p.m., the marquisate became extinct, but the earldom
devolved on his uncle, the above-named bishop, who died in 1824, aged 80. Brome Hall
was erected in 1550, and was a remarkably fine specimen of old English grandeur. It has
been demolished, and the family have become extinct; and their once ample possessions
have passed into other hands. They bore sa., guttée d' eau, on a fess arg., three cornish
cloughs ppr.; and for a crest, on a mount vert., a stag lodged regardant arg.
GREAT YARMOUTH
177
light the following morning Lieut. Searle saw a sail in the north-east,
which he hoped might be his old antagonist, but it turned out to be the
French privateer schooner Ribbott é ur, which, the Courier instantly
captured and brought in triumph into Yarmouth Roads. This was not
Lieut. Searle's only exploit, for in November of the same year, when
cruising off Flushing, he fell in with and captured the French cutter-
privateer Guerrier, commanded by Citizen Felix Lallemand, after a
warm and close action which lasted fifty minutes. In this month of May,
Lord William Bentinck arrived at Yarmouth, and shortly afterwards
embarked for the continent.* In July, 1799, Capt. Swinbourne landed,
bringing news of the victory obtained by Suwarrow over Marshal
Macdonald. At this time the British Government determined to land a
large force in Holland, under the command of the Duke of York. Troops
were sent to Yarmouth for embarkation, and a large number of vessels
assembled in Yarmouth Roads to take part in what became known as the
"Helder Expedition." In December, 1799, a king's messenger (Mr.
Hunter, sen.) came to Yarmouth bearing dispatches for Vienna, and was
detained here fourteen days by contrary winds. At last he set sail, but
after being at sea for two days the ship was driven on shore at Harwich,
where he was detained for six days by a violent gale. He again started
once more for Cuxhaven, but the passage being so obstructed by ice he
was compelled to disembark at Heligoland, where he was detained for
twenty days. He then hired a vessel to take him to Cuxhaven, which
place he reached after being eight days at sea; but owing to the
accumulation of ice he had to remain seventeen days at Cuxhaven
before he could return.
In August, 1799, Capt. Winthrop, who commanded the Circe
frigate on the Yarmouth station, was dispatched from Lord Duncan's
ship with a flag of truce to the Dutch Admiral Storey, inviting him to
deliver up his ships for the use of the Prince of Orange; and he was also
the bearer of a proclamation signed by the prince addressed to the
Dutch nation. Admiral Storey having declined the proposal made to
him, the British troops were landed, the Helder was captured by Major-
General Moore, and thirteen Dutch ships-of-war then at anchor in the
Nieuwe
* He eventually "became Governor-General of India, and died in 1339.
178
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
Diep were taken, possession of by Captain. Winthrop. Thereupon, the
Texel being open, Vice-Admiral Mitchell took his squadron in prepared
to engage the Dutch fleet, but a change had come over the Dutch sailors
since Camperdown, for they refused to fight on this occasion, and
Admiral Storey was compelled to surrender his whole fleet, comprising
twenty-five ships, to the British admiral, who took possession of the
same in the name of the Prince of Orange. On the 17th of August the
17th Regiment of Foot, 1,200 strong, chiefly composed of volunteers
from the Militia Regiments, was dispatched in hot haste to join the
invading army. In September five sail of Russian men-of-war arrived in
Yarmouth Roads, under the command of Admiral Tschitschakow,
having 6,000 troops on board. After some successes the British army
was defeated and compelled to retrace their steps and evacuate Holland.
In October, 1799, hundreds of wounded men were landed at Yarmouth,
and with them two women, camp followers, natives of Norwich, one of
whom had lost an arm and the other a leg. A fleet of transports followed,
bearing back the unsuccessful army. Prince William of Gloucester, the
Earl of Chatham, and Lord Paget landed and dined with Lord Duncan. A
brigade of guards also landed, commanded by Colonel Wynyard,
followed by twenty-four regiments of the line and some cavalry,
numbering in all about 25,000 men. They were marched off as quickly
as possible to Norwich.* The inhabitants of Yarmouth had ample
opportunity upon this and many other occasions for the exercise of
hospitality towards military officers, some of whom were often in a
destitute state; and in November, 1799, Sir William Scott, afterwards
Lord Stowell, f wrote to Mr. Cory, recommending to his attention
Colonel Brock and Major Vincent of the 49th Regiment, "from whom,"
says Sir William, "I received much hospitality during my short time in
Holland." The Duke of York himself landed from the June. He was
accompanied by General Dundas and Sir Home Popham. The populace
generously
* They entered Norwich by torchlight, where through the great exertions of the
mayor (William Herring, Esq.) this large force was accommodated for the night.
f He was in Yarmouth in September, 1709) and was entertained at a public
dinner, being then Judge of the High Court of Admiralty.
GREAT YARMOUTH
179
forgetful of his want of success, took the horses from the duke's carriage
and drew it from the beach to Lord Duncan's lodgings. His royal
highness afterwards went to the Bear and posted to London. In October,
1799, the Lutine frigate of 32 guns, Capt. Skinner, sailed from
Yarmouth Roads, having on board several passengers and bullion to the
value of a million and a half for the supply of the British army; in
addition to which were the crown jewels belonging to the Prince of
Orange, which had been then recently reset by those well-known
jewellers, Rundell and Bridge. Bullion also was-sent in her by private
firms for the relief of the mercantile houses at Hamburgh, and a large
cargo of merchandize, so that the ship and her contents were estimated
at a total value of three millions sterling. On approaching Zuyder Zee
she encountered a storm, and the ship was driven on a sandbank
between the islands of Wieland and Terschelling and there wrecked, and
almost all the crew, numbering nearly two hundred, were drowned.
Some years after this event a company was formed for the purpose of
endeavouring to recover the sunken treasure, under an agreement
whereby the Dutch Government was to receive one half of the proceeds;
and in the course of a few years by means of the diving bell £160,000
worth of bullion was raised, and equally divided between the company
and the King of Holland.* On the 29 t h of November the Prussian
Minister, Baron Jacobi, landed here and proceeded to London on a
special mission. On the 30th of November intelligence was received that
Capt. Temple, sent from this port for the purpose, had captured the
French privateer lugger Fantasie, carrying fourteen guns and sixty men.
In this year Captain Broke, afterwards Sir Philip Broke, f of Shannon
and Chesapeake fame, was employed on the Yarmouth station to protect
the trade of the town. Captain (afterwards Admiral Sir John)
Ommanney, com-
* The marine insurers had lost heartily by this wreck, but the Dutch Government for
many years refused to recognise their claims. Ultimately however the committee of
Lloyd's obtained payment of £20,000 to be employed in making another attempt. A table
made out of the ship's rudder, and the rudder chain and ship's bell, have been placed in the
committee-room at Lloyd's, with a suitable inscription.
f Descended from a family who in the reign, of Henry VIII. acquired by marriage
with an heiress of the Fastolfes an estate at Nacton in Suffolk, which has ever since
remained with them.,
180
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
manding H. M. Sloop Busy, captured the French lugger privateer La
Dragon of 16 tons, belonging to Dunkirk and the sloop Driver, Capt.
Dunbar, captured and brought in the schooner privateer Le Barras, 14
guns, and landed fifty-seven French prisoners. In 1799 a tempest,
memorable for its violence and fatal effects, ravaged the eastern coast,
and drove from their anchors all the ships lying in Yarmouth Roads. f In
January, 1800, the Prince of Orange again came to Yarmouth and
embarked; as did also, on the 3rd of April, Henry Crabb Robinson, who
landed at Cuxhaven on the 6 th . In July following Lord Carysford,
Ambassador to Berlin, embarked on board the Zatona; and Lord
Camelford sailed in the Rose cutter for Hamburgh. Among the arrivals
and departures this year may be noticed the Marquis of Salisbury and
Sir Hans Sloane.
Napoleon, impelled by an implacable hostility to Great Britain,
determined at this time to exclude her ships from all continental ports;
to abolish the right of search j and to establish "armed neutralities." In
July, 1800, the commander of the Danish frigate Freya having refused
to allow his convoy to be searched, the British captain, by whom the
demand was made, laid his vessel alongside the Dane, and after a smart
action captured her and brought her into the Downs. The English
cabinet having previously obtained intelligence of the hostile
negotiations going on in the northern courts relative to neutral rights,
and deeming it probable that the above event would be made the signal
* See vol, i, p. 328. The lugger was discovered running along the Dutch coast, and
after a short chase was driven close in shore, about five miles south of Egmont, where she
struck her colours. Ten of the crew endeavoured to escape in the ship's boat, which upset
in the surf and eight were drowned.
f The greater part were wrecked on the northern coast: and it was believed that many
of them might hays been saved, had a light been fixed on the Bell Rock to point out the
entrances to the Firths of Forth and Tay. Among other lamentable shipwrecks which took
place on the Inchcape about the same time was H.M.S. York, 74 guns, which went down
with all her crew. It was not until the close of the year 1810 that a permanent lighthouse,
designed by Rennie, was erected on the Bell Rock. Smiles ii, p. 232.
J Diary, vol. i., p. 69; and vol. ii., p. 286. He was for some years a leading counsel
on the Norfolk circuit. He tells us that in Yarmouth he became acquainted with Sir
Edward Parry, the Arctic voyager.
GREAT YARMOUTH
181
for openly declaring their intentions, resolved to anticipate the attack by
sending Lord Whitworth to Copenhagen, backed by a sufficient force.*
His lordship came down to Yarmouth., and soon afterwards sailed for
Copenhagen, accompanied by a strong squadron, consisting of nine sail
of the line, four bomb ketches, and five gun boats, under the command
of Admiral Dickson. In this expedition the Ardent, 64, was commanded
by Capt. (afterward Rear-Admiral Sir Thomas) Bertie. f In October,
1800, Mr. Mason, a king's messenger, embarked at Yarmouth, but being
unable to reach Cuxhaven on account of the ice, put into Heligoland,
where he was detained for twenty-two days. On the 31st of the same
month another messenger (Mr. Hunter) left with dispatches for Vienna,
but being unable to reach Cuxhaven on account of a tempestuous sea, he
landed on the Island of Newark (sometimes called the Mud Bank), and
hired a fishing boat which took him to Cuxhaven, where he engaged
another boat to Crisendorff, and thence proceeded by land to Vienna. t In
December 1800, Mr. Scott, a king's messenger with dispatches from
Vienna, being unable to reach Yarmouth on account of adverse winds,
landed from a boat at Cromer and posted to London. In August, 1800,
the carriage of the Turkish Ambassador, then on his way to Yarmouth for
embarkation, broke down shortly after leaving Colchester. The Turk
alighted and went into a neighbouring wood, where he caused a carpet
to be spread, a fire to be kindled and coffee prepared; and there under a
canopy fixed to some tree he seated himself in the Turkish style, and
quietly smoked a pipe till the carriage was repaired. On the 6th of
November, 1800, Lord Nelson landed, as has already been related (vol.
i., p. 185). He was received with all that spontaneous homage which
popular enthusiasm can
*Ann. Reg., p.p. 94, 95. Alison's History, VOL . V ii., p. 350.
f The Ardent formed one of the squadron under Nelson at the battle of Copenhagen,
where Capt. Bertie greatly distinguished himself. Having obtained his flag he was
appointed to a command in the Baltic; and when in the Dictator, 64, in 1809 he returned
to Yarmouth Roads, having "been driven from his station in the Sound by the appearance
of ice". He died in 1825.
t Such were the dangers, delays, and difficulties which beset king's messengers at a
time when speed was of the utmost importance, the dispatches they carried frequently
deciding the fate of armies and kingdoms.
182
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
alone originate—a tribute more flattering than the highest official
honors. The battered hero was welcomed with universal acclamations ;
he had for eight years fought in the front of England's battles, and
success had vindicated what would otherwise have been termed
rashness.* In January, 1801, Admiral Dickson having been made a full
admiral, hoisted his flag (blue) at the main, on board the Princess of
Orange. In the same month H. M. S. Pylades captured and brought in
the Neptunas of Amsterdam, estimated to be worth £40,000; and the
Favorite sent in a French lugger of 14 guns, with the extraordinary
name of the Anti-christ, Another French privateer, called the Devil of
Calais, captured a number of English merchantmen. At this time the
Dolphin packet, Capt. Flyn was, after an engagement of two hours,
captured and carried into the Texel. She had on board Sir Robert
Barclay and many passengers, including two ladies. An exchange of
prisoners having been arranged, one hundred and fifty men belonging to
different regiments were landed here. In February, 1801, Admiral Sir
Hyde Parker arrived at Yarmouth, and hoisted his flag (blue) at the
main on board the Ardent, took the command of the fleet destined to
break up the “armed
* Shortly after his return to England a portrait of Nelson was painted by an artist
named Abbott (at that time held in much esteem), for Robert Butcher, Esq., of Grove
House, Bungay, and remained in his possession until his death, when it was purchased by
Messrs. Graves and Co., print sellers. In 1777 Nelson was appointed second Lieutenant of
the Lowestoffe, a frigate of 32 guns, then, commanded by Capt. Locker, afterwards
Lieutenant-Governor of Greenwich Hospital. It was the practice in the last century to
name ships-of-war after the principal cities, towns, and seaports in the kingdom. Thus we
had the Yarmouth of 64 guns, Norwich 50, Colchester 80, Cambridge 80, Harwich 50,
and many others. Surely this was better than calling our ships by the names of heathen
gods and goddesses. A remarkable circumstance occurred when the Yarmouth, under the
command of Capt. Vincent, was cruising off Antigua in 1779. She saw and chased six
sail; and having come up with the largest, which proved to be the Randolph, American
privateer, an engagement began. Within twenty minutes the American blew up, and great
part of her wreck falling on the Yarmouth killed five and wounded twelve of her crew.
Five days afterwards Capt. Vincent being in chase saw a piece of wreck with four men
upon it. He then gave up the chase, bore down and picked them up. They proved to be the
only survivors of the crew of the Randolph, numbering three hundred and five men. The
Yarmouth ultimately became a receiving ship at Plymouth, and in 1796 the Amphion
frigate, Capt. Israel Pellew, was lying alongside, when the latter blew up with a loss of
three hundred men.
GREAT YARMOUTH
183
neutrality" of Russia, Sweden, and Denmark., a confederacy which
foreboded the most disastrous consequences to this country; and on the
2nd of March Nelson came into Yarmouth Roads with seven sail of the
line to strengthen the fleet already here. Nelson had his flag flying on
hoard the St. George, 98 guns; and the town was speedily thronged with
visitors eager to view the fleet and see the Norfolk hero. Sir Hyde
Parker being at his lodgings on shore, Nelson reported his arrival and
intimated his intention of waiting upon him next day. "We "breakfasted
that morning as usual soon after six o'clock," says an officer of the ship,
"for we were always up before daylight; and went on shore so as to be at
Sir Hyde Parker's door by eight o'clock, Lord Nelson choosing to be
amusingly exact to that hour, which he considered a late one for
business." While lying in Yarmouth Roads Nelson received a letter from
Sir Edward Berry, directing his attention to a new plan for pointing
guns. "I shall of course look at it," says Nelson in reply, " but I hope we
shall be able as usual to get so close to our enemies that our shot cannot
miss their object; and that we shall again give our northern enemies that
hail-storm of bullets, which is so emphatically described in the Naval
Chronicle, and which gives to our dear country the dominion of the
sea.* Nelson. Says he found his chief a little nervous about dark nights
and fields of ice, but adds the hero ''we must brace up, for these are not
times for nervous systems." Nelson strongly urged upon Sir Hyde
Parker that "not a moment should be lost in attacking the enemy;" and
the fleet sailed from Yarmouth Roads on the 12th of March, forced the
passage of the Sound, and fought the battle of Copenhagen. f A fishing
boat brought in and
* Nelson also addressed a letter from Yarmouth Roads to Mr. Pillans, "Grand-
master of the Ancient Order of Gregorians" at Norwich, with thanks for his election
into that society. Ever mindful of his friends, Nelson, about this time, appointed
the Rev. Stephen George Comyn to be Chaplain of the San Josef. Comyn had been
with him both at the Nile and Copenhagen; Nelson was much attached to him, and
stood sponser for his son, the present Rev. Horatio Nelson Comyn, Rector of
Brunstead and Vicar of Walcot, Norfolk.
f Massey is of opinion that if this expedition had been placed under Nelson's
orders from the time it left Yarmouth Roads, the triple league of the Baltic powers
would have been more speedily dissolved and with less effusion of blood. Nelson
never revisited Yarmouth.
184
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
landed, on the 16th. of March, Admiral Tottie, who on the previous day
had sailed from Yarmouth Roads in the Invincible, 74 guns.
" A stately ship with all her bravery on,
" And tackle trim, "
Whilst proceeding out of Hasborough Gat (with the intention of joining
the fleet under Nelson) she struck on Smith's Knowl, and Capt. Rannie
and four hundred men perished. The catastrophe was attributed to the
ignorance and carelessness of the pilot. On the 15th of April the mail
coach, entered, the town with colours flying, bringing the news of the
destruction of the Banish fleet, by which England maintained her
supremacy at sea. f Shortly afterwards Lord C. Bentinck and Sir Robert
Barclay arrived from Cuxhaven. On the 13th of May the Blanche arrived,
in Yarmouth Roads and landed Sir Hyde Parker. In this month the
Danish Ambassador, Count Bernstorf, landed, and every respect was
paid to him. In June of this year Lord Grantham sailed in the Dolphin,
Capt. Flynn, t for Hamburgh; and Lord St. Helens, the British
Ambassador to the Court of St. Petersburgh, embarked in the Zatona,
Capt. Sotherton; in which vessel Counts Woronzow and Novorsceltzolt
were also allowed passage. In the following month. Capt. Sir Edward
Berry arrived in the Ruby; and Rear-Admiral Graves brought into the
Roads his division of the Baltic fleet. Shortly afterwards Admiral C.
Parker arrived in the Princess of Orange; and H. M. frigate Shannon
landed Lord Carysford from Hamburgh. M. Moloitz landed on the 1st
of
* See Schomberg's N aval Chronology, vol. iii., p. 495. Rannie had been made a
post-captain for his conduct at the Holder, " Do you know all the sands on this coast," said
the master of a vessel to an Irishman who had undertaken to act as a pilot. "Sure I do,"
said he,—"and that's one of them," he added as the ship grounded on the Newcome.
f Nelson was equally a favorite with officers and men. When compelled, after the
battle of Copenhagen, to retire for a time from active service on account of his health, the
following toast was given on board every ship,—"May he who is no longer our
commander, ever be our example."
" Behold proud Denmark's haughty crest,
"To British valour now bends low; "
' T’was Nelson stood the bloody test,
" And gain'd fresh laurels for his brow."
t Capt. Matthew Flynn, commanding the King George packet, was this year married
to Miss Eager, sister of Mr. John Eager already mentioned.
GREAT YARM OUTH
185
October, bringing news from Constantinople of the surrender of
Alexandria to the English army under General Hutchinson. On the 1st of
November, 1801, the Prince of Orange arrived at the Angel from
London, and was on the following day waited upon by the mayor and
corporation, and the principal naval and military officers in the town,
and the prince dined with them, at the Wrestlers. He remained waiting
for a wind till the 10th, when he sailed for Cuxhaven. Orders were
received in 1802 to prepare for immediate service every ship-of-war
then at Yarmouth. They were to be provisioned and equipped for five
months, and to put to sea with all possible dispatch. Admiral. Sir
Thomas Graves, K.B., was at this time second in command. On the 5th
of May peace was proclaimed: and although Yarmouth had greatly
benefited by the war, yet there was every outward demonstration of
rejoicing. The proclamation was read at the Market Cross, and the
sword was sheathed according to ancient custom*
On the 24th of May, 1802, the Duke of Cambridge embarked on
board the Amphion frigate, Capt. Fraser, having been appointed Regent
of Hanover. He was accompanied by Major Digens. On the renewal of
the war with France in 1803, Lord Keith, was appointed to the
command of the North-Sea fleet, and of all ships in the Channel as far
west as Selsea-bill, but he did not reside at Yarmouth. He held this
extensive command until 1807, when it was divided. He was succeeded,
in the North Sea by Admiral Thomas Macnamara Russell, who hoisted
his flag on board the Dictator, and took up his residence at Yarmouth. f
* Under the charter of Charles II. the mayor is entitled to have a sword in a scabbard
carried before him "everywhere within, the borough, and the liberties thereof." "When
"war is declared the word is drawn and canned "naked" until peace is proclaimed, when it
is returned to its sheath. See M. p. 361; and. P.C. p. 41.
f He entered the navy when a mere child, as the custom then was, and for fourteen
years served as a midshipman. "When in command of the Hussar, 20 guns, he
fought and took the French frigate La Sybille of 88 guns. In 1800 he was advanced
to the rank of rear-admiral, When at Yarmouth he had the blockade of the Texel
under his charge. This blockade was one of the most efficient ever known; and,
notwithstanding the dangerous nature of the service, was attended with no loss.
He became a full admiral in 1812, and died in 1814 (whilst driving in his carriage at
Great Cranford, near Poole), aged 81. To the qualities of a thorough seaman, and
the science of an able naval tactitian, he added the nicest and highest sense of honor
186
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
"With the recommencement of hostilities, Rear-Admiral Sir Thomas
Thornborough* was appointed to a division of the North-Sea fleet under
Lord Keith, and hoisted his flag in the Defence, 74; and was engaged in
the blockade of the Texel. The threats of invasion which soon followed,
although causing no dismay, created some uneasiness. Many of the
inhabitants took lodgings in some of the inland towns for their wives
and children, that they might escape the first ferocity of the invaders in
case they effected a landing; for the license of the French soldiers over
the peaceable inhabitants of conquered nations was well known. On the
summit of the cliff at Boulogne there is a sort of observatory with
residential rooms annexed, bearing the following external inscription—
Poste d’ observation de l’ Empereur Napoleon; the enclosure being
designated— Enclos de la baraque de l’ Emperor and de l' Admiral.
This was in fact the station from which the great commander
“----------- looked towards England ;”
and from this spot might be seen the havoc caused by Nelson in the
Medusa, when he sank two floating batteries and destroyed such gun-
boats as laid within range outside the harbour of Boulogne. j
On the 13th of June, 1803, the Duke of Cambridge and Prince
William of Gloucester landed here from the Amethyst frigate, Capt.
Campbell, having narrowly escaped being taken prisoners by the
advanced guard of the French army. About the same time also landed
Mr. Liston, late British Ambassador at the Hague, who was permitted to
come over under a flag of truce. Admiral Thorn borough captured and
sent in the longe William Ling, a Dutch vessel bound for Rouen, having
on board "four swans consigned to Buonaparte." In the following month
Lord Burghersh arrived at the Angel Inn, and soon afterwards sailed in
the Amethyst frigate for Copenhagen. On the 18th
and the manners and urbanity of a courtier. He was brave, generous, and humane."
Sea Naval Chronicle, v. 17, p.442. A well-known officer of this fleet was Sir George
Burlton, then called the "Lively Captain Burlton," from commanding a frigate of
that name.
* He was frequently to be seen on Yarmouth Jetty. He died in 1834, aged 78.
f Here, on the 14th.of June, 1856, a statue of Napoleon I. was erected to
commemorate the alliance between France and England. Musgrave's Pilgrimage
into Dauphin é , vol. i., p. 11.
GREAT YARMOUTH
187
of November following three fishing vessels brought into these Roads
and landed the crew of the Circe frigate of 32 guns, which, whilst in
chase of a French privateer, struck on a sand and was totally lost. On the
14th of April, 1804, Sir Sydney Smith, "Hero of Acre," arrived in the
Antelope from the Flushing station; and a few days afterwards landed
and proceeded on a tour through the county." The Antelope brought over
and landed the 67th Regiment of the Line, under the command of
Colonel Gordon. In the same month the Eagle, 74, Capt. Colby, R.N.,
broke from her moorings in a, gale of wind and came on shore, but was
got off again. In the same year Lord Gower and suite arrived at the
Wrestlers, and embarked in the Amethyst frigate on a foreign mission.
The Eight Hon. Charles Arbuthnot also arrived at the Angel Inn; and
embarked on a mission to the Ottoman Porte. On the 1st of November,
1804, landed M ONSIEUR , next brother of Louis XVIII., who had been to
visit him at Calmar. On the 18th the Romney a fine ship of 50 guns, left
Yarmouth Roads for the Texel. f On the following morning seeing the
masts of three vessels supposed to form part of the British fleet, she
made towards them and ran on the Haak Sand, five miles west of the
Texel, where those vessels whose masts were seen had been wrecked
during the previous night. The Romney was totally lost; and her officers
and men escaping in the boats and upon rafts, were taken prisoners by
the Dutch; but their Admiral Kilkkert very handsomely discharged them
all on parole, and Capt. Colville and his officers returned to Yarmouth.
The Alert cutter picked up the master's mate and thirteen men from a raft
and brought them in. The thanks of the inhabitants were given to Capt.
Hancock, R.N., who with the Cruiser sloop-of-war had captured a large
French privateer of 18 guns, commanded by the noted Blackman, who,
it is said, was born at Dunkirk of English parents. His crew were
marched prisoners to Norwich on the 26th of December. When
Blackman and his officers were landed they attempted to escape by
bribing the guard; and in con-
* He was connected with Norfolk, his father, Captain Smith, having married a
daughter of Mr.Wilkinson of Burnham, whose other daughter married Lord Camelford.
f She was laden with bullocks, fowl, and vegetables for the blockading squadron,
and had trunks, parcels, and letters for almost every officer on that dreary station
the whole of which were lost.
188
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
sequence were sent on board the Monmouth. Among those who sought
refuge on our shores were the nuns of Montargis, who landed here in
1805, and afterwards found an asylum, at Bodney Hall in Norfolk,
where, on the 9th of July, Elvise Adelaide, daughter of the Prince de
Conde, took the veil.* In 1805 there arrived in these Roads H. M. sloop
Scorpion, bringing in the L’ Honneur, Capt. Antonie Dondet, and the
brig Mary of Lynn, previously captured by the Frenchman Jean Saint
Faust, noted for his successful depredations on British commerce in
these seas, was a passenger on board the l’ Honneur. The Ross Militia,
under the command of Colonel Macleod, landed at Yarmouth in 1805
and marched to Norwich. Three days previously, three men of this
regiment were washed overboard in a storm. A boat with seven sailors
was immediately hoisted out to go to their assistance, but it upset and all
perished. Mr. Donaldson, a king's messenger, proceeding from
Yarmouth to Cuxhaven in the schooner Pigeon, was wrecked on the
coast of Holland. In October, 1805, the exultation excited by the news
of Nelson's victory over the combined fleets of France and Spain, was
saddened by the account of the hero's death. f In December, 1805, the
Earl of Harrowby, Ambassador to the Court of St. Petersburgh, arrived
here, and sailed in the Venus frigate; and Lord Cathcart, appointed
Commander-in-chief of the Britannic forces on the continent, embarked
in the Vestal frigate. In the same month the Duke of Cambridge sailed in
the Orpheus. All Dutch prisoners in the town were this year exchanged.
Admiral Billy
* Great was the disappointment of the ardent youths of Yarmouth when they
rushed to the beach to see the supposed lovely creatures land, and found a lot of hard-
featured shrivelled old women worn out by fatigue, and suffering from maladie-de-mer.
f Thomas Clabbon of Tasmania, who died in 1371, aged 78, for many years
Drum-major of the 86th Regiment of the Line, was one of the drummers at Nelson's
funeral, as he was fond of relating. Sir George Jackson, then an attache at the
Berlin Embassy, happening to be in London, was selected to carry the news of the
battle of Trafalgar to the Court of Prussia. He embarked at Harwich, and travelled with all
expedition, but had the mortification of finding on his arrival at Berlin that the news had
preceded him by a few hours; a Yarmouth vessel, which sailed from this port on the same
day, entrusted with a Gazette for the fleet off the Texel, having made a quicker passage,
and the intelligence having been forwarded through Holland. Jackson's Diary, vol. i., p.
367. Thomas Gent (see vol. ii., p, 358) wrote An Ode on the death of Nelson.
GREAT Y ARMOUTH
189
Douglas was appointed Port-Admiral, and Admiral Russell commanded
the fleet off the Texel. In January, 1806. Lord Harrowby and Mr.
Hammond debarked from the Flora frigate, Capt. Brand; and in the
same month Lord Paget landed with three regiments of Light Dragoons
and three Brigades of Infantry. In the same month General Lord
Cathcart and Major-General Lord Bagot landed from the Majestic; and
in March following Lord Harrington landed, accompanied by his son
and several Hanoverian officers. In August, Sir A. Paget, our
Ambassador at Vienna, landed from the Amaranthe, and soon
afterwards Lord G. L. Gower arrived from St. Petersburgh in the
Ariadne. Admiral Sir Richard Bickerton, having retired from active
service, came for a time to Yarmouth. In the same year Viscount
Trafalgar, then a youth of eighteen years, the only son of Earl Nelson
and heir to all the honours won by his heroic uncle, came to Yarmouth,
and accompanied Admiral Russell with the North-Sea squadron to the
Texel. He died in 1808, unmarried. In this year the Blanche frigate,
Capt. Lavie, brought into these Roads the French frigate La Guerriere
of 50 guns, which had been taken after a desperate action of forty-five
minutes. The Frenchman had captured a Yarmouth vessel and eight
whalers, all of which she had destroyed. In October 1806, Lord Morpeth
came down to Yarmouth, accompanied by Mr. Bartle Frere, Mr. Ross,
and two or three messengers, and embarked for Hamburgh in a frigate
which was waiting for him.* In November, 1806, the Earl of Moira,
Master-General of the Ordnance, arrived and made an inspection; in the
following month Lord Hutchinson embarked in the Astrea frigate for the
continent; and the Marquis of Douglas sailed in the Ariadne for St.
Petersburgh. On the 26th of July, 1807, the fleet under the command of
Lord Gambier, and numbering sixty-nine pennants, came into these
Roads. Vice-Admiral Stanhope was second in command; and the Hero
of Acre was on board the flagship Prince of Wales, 98 guns. This fleet
was destined for the Baltic, the troops
* The history of his going there was this. The cabinet at Berlin, alarmed at the
recent measures of Buonaparte, had made overtures to the British government, and
had sent the Prussian Minister, Count Haugwitz, to Hamburgh to meet the
English Envoy. Lord Morpeth went on to Weimar. The battle of Jena soon
followed, and his lordship was in danger of falling into the hands of the French.
190
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
being under the command of Lord Gathcart. On the 2nd of August,
1807, Mr. Francis Jackson and suits embarked for Tonningen, on a
special mission to Denmark.* At the same time the fleet sailed from
Yarmouth Roads. The troops were disembarked on the 12th of August;
after some ineffectual negotiation, Copenhagen was invested and
bombarded, and on the 6th of September the citadel and arsenal fell into
the hands of the British, together with the Danish fleet. On the 22nd of
September Sir George Jackson, on his return from Copenhagen, landed
here from the Halcyon sloop-of-war. f On the 28th of October Lord
Cathcart landed at Yarmouth from the Africaine frigate, and was
received with, demonstrations of great joy. He immediately posted to
Windsor where he waited upon the king, who soon afterwards created
him a British peer. On the following day Lord Gambier landed, having
returned to these Roads with his fleet, comprising thirty-two sail of the
line, including the Danish fleet, and a great number of frigates and
smaller vessels. In the next month Capt. Lord George Stuart landed
from the L’Amiable frigate, having brought in the famous privateer Le
Decide which had captured thirty prizes. Lord George was well known
in Yarmouth society for several years afterwards. t On the 2nd of
November, 1807, Louis XVIIL landed here, as has been related (vol. i. ,
p. 197). § January the 9th, 1808, Lord G. L. Gower,
* "I left town," he says in a letter to his mother, "at 7 a.m., but owing to the
scarcity of horses did not reach Yarmouth till 9 o'clock the next morning; and now it
blows so fresh that it is difficult to communicate with the shipping. By a strange
confusion, of orders sent from the Admiralty, I know not yet which ship I am to go in.
My corps is now assembled, and I assure you we are formidable both in numbers and
appearance" On the following day he writes again from Yarmouth, "Twenty-
seven hours have been lost here, and I thought at one moment that I should have to
return, or send one of my staff to town for more positive orders to furnish me with a
conveyance.''—Jackson's Diary.
f Writing from Yarmouth to his mother at Bath, he says "I am satisfied in the
recollection of the multiplied events of the last two months, and of the share I have
had in them."
t He was the seventh son of the first Marquis of Bute, and died a Rear-Admiral
in 1841, aged 61.
§ The seamen of the Majestie who rowed him on shore refused to take the £15
which Louis had ordered to be distributed among them. Their reasons arc given in
a very characteristic letter addressed to the admiral, and published in P.C. p. 287.
GREAT YARMOUTH
191
on his return from a mission to the Court of St. Petersburgh, landed from the
Proserpine. He had sailed three weeks previously, but had been driven back by
a storm, and finally left Gothenburg on the 2nd of January,* Lord Hutchinson,
who had been on a special mission to the King of Prussia, and who landed about
the same time, had been in no such danger, as he arrived in the Bellette sloop-
of-war. On the 22nd of March, 1808, the Stately, commanded, by Capt.,
(afterwards Sir George) Parker, and the Nassau, Capt. Robert Campbell,
proceeding towards the Great Belt descried and chased a strange sail, which
proved to be the Danish Prindts Christian-Frederic, 74, Capt. Jessen. When the
British ships reached the Dane they opened fire, but before the first Lieutenant
of the Stately could take possession the Dane grounded, and it being impossible
to get the captured ship afloat she was set on fire by her captors, and in a short
time blew up. She had fifty-five men killed and eighty-eight wounded, a loss
sufficient to prove that her commander did not surrender his ship earlier than
was consistent with the honour of the Danish flag. In May following Admiral
Sir Richard Keats, having hoisted his flag on board the Superb, came into
Yarmouth Roads, and was joined by the Mars, Capt. Lukin, some sloops-of-
war, and about 160 sail of transports, having from 10,000 to 12,000 men on
board, under the command of General Sir John Moore. The latter landed at the
Jetty and was well received. Major-Generals Paget and Murray accompanied
the expedition, as did Captain Burgoyne, then a young officer of engineers,
afterwards a field-marshal. The expedition sailed for Sweden, but nothing came
of it. On the 24th of May, 1808, the British hired cutter Swan, under the
command of Lieut. Mark Robinson Lucas (already mentioned), being off the
island of Bornholm
Louis XVIII entered Paris on the 3rd of May, 1814, after an exile of twenty-two
years. He was accompanied by the Chevalier De Bardelin, a French emigrant, who
had lived in Norwich for the previous fifteen years. Another of his followers,
M. Joseph Leonard Monsigny, did not join the king, but continued to reside at
Norwich, where he died in 1820, aged 80. He had held the post of private secretary
to Louis XVI.
* The Danes twice took the vessel, which had on board his lordship's plate and
effects, but on each occasion had to relinquish their prize on the production of a
Russian passport, backed by the Danish Minister at St. Petersburgh.
192
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
with dispatches for Sir Samuel Hood, the commander-in-chief, a Danish
cutter-rigged vessel was observed standing from the land. The Swan
having contrived to get within musket shot of her opened fire, and after
an action of twenty minutes duration the Dane blew up and sunk. The
Swan now laid nearly becalmed under the land, and the battery of
Bornholm still firing and several boats approaching from the shore,
Lieut. Lucas was compelled to move off. Sir James Saumares; in his
dispatches to Sir Samuel Hood said "Great praise is due to Lieut. Lucas
for his spirited attack on a vessel of superior force under the protection
of the enemy's batteries;" but the question arises whether a vessel
carrying dispatches should under any circumstances engage with, the
enemy. On the 2nd of January, 1809, the 32-gun frigate Amiable, Capt.
Lord George Stuart, being off the Wellbank discovered a strange sail,
and after a chase of twenty-four hours' duration came up with the French
ship-corvette Iris, and after a short running fight, during which the
Amiable received considerable damage, the Iris hauled down her
colours. The Stately, 74, Capt. George Parker, arrived from the Baltic in
1800, and landed Admiral Bertie. News came of the abandonment of the
Waleheren expedition. On the 10th of May, 1810, Vice-Admiral Sir J.
Saumarez sailed from Yarmouth Roads in the Victory, 100 guns, bound
for the Baltic, accompanied by seven sail of the line. In the same year
the Victory came into the Roads and landed Admiral Somers. He had
with him the Formidable, 98, the St. George (once Nelson's ship), 98,
the Dreadnought, 98, and several other
------- brave old, ships, whose names are writ in glory,"
making in all fourteen sail of the line.
On the 14th of November, 1810, G USTAVUS IV., the deposed King
of Sweden, landed here from the Tartarus sloop-of-war, Capt.
Mainwaring, under the assumed name of Count Gottorp. He embarked
on board an American vessel at Riga; and in the Baltic quitted her for
the British ship Ruby, from which he subsequently transferred himself
to the Tartarus, and arrived in Yarmouth Roads on the 13th of
November, and next day was brought on shore by the beach yawl Sir
Francis Burdett. He was welcomed by Lord Gambier and the local
authorities;
GREAT YARMOUTH
193
although his arrival was considered by government as "painful and
embarrassing." He was received with, much enthusiasm by the
populace, and one gentleman (the Rev. S. L. Barker), in order to be the
first to take royalty by the hand, waded up to his knees in the surf. The
people harnessed themselves to the carriage, which conveyed the king
from the beach, and, according to Dr. Doran, the ladies "kissed him as
ardently as their sisters in town afterwards kissed old Blucher." They
knew him only as a fallen monarch, whose restoration to his kingdom
was not improbable; for few then supposed that the "Frenchman"
(Bernadotte) would continue long upon the Swedish throne. The
amusing doctor goes on to say that "the farmers of Colchester greeted
him almost as warmly as the ladies of Yarmouth had done." He had an
English gentleman, Mr. Pierrepoint, as escort; British noblemen were
proud to entertain him; apartments were fitted up for him in Hampton
Court Palace; and he passed part of the following year at Hartwell with
Louis XVIII. In 1812 Gustavus returned to Yarmouth and embarked for
Altona; and even ventured to show himself at Hamburgh, then occupied
by the French, He assumed the title of Duke of Holstein, but
relinquished it at the request of the Danish government. Under the
former designation of Count Gottorp he resided for some time at Bale,
and after many eccentric wanderings under that title, and the more
modest appellation of Colonel Gustafson, died at St. Gall in Switzerland
on the 7th of February, 1837, aged 58.*
* It is said that the king had a small picture by Raffael which he highly valued, and
on leaving his dominions he had it taken out of its frame and rolled up to be carried away
with him. When the King landed at Yarmouth the picture could not be found. The
circumstance became known to a London dealer, who on enquiry found that the king had
been during part of the voyage on board a Yarmouth vessel. He therefore came down, and
after much enquiry ascertained that in the vessel's hold a small painting on canvas had
been found, which had been taken possession of by one of the sailors as a present to his
wife for the adornment of their humble dwelling; and there it was found and purchased for
a few shillings. Another picture anecdote may here find a place. West, a London dealer,
purchased a "Waterfall" for a trifling sum; and immediately sold the picture to the late Mr.
Phillips for £15. The latter pronounced it to be by Rysdael; and disposed of it to Mr.
Isaacs, a well-known dealer frequently visiting Yarmouth, where he sold the picture to
Capt. Gunthorpe for a good price; but after a time taking it back again in exchange, Isaacs
eventually obtained, as he asserted, 300 guineas for it
194
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
In 1810 thirty-six men belonging; to the ting's German Legion were
landed. From H. M. S. Roebuck, "standing much in need of clothing.'' In the
same year Capt. Ryves in the Africa, 64, convoyed two hundred
merchant vessels through the Great Belt into Yarmouth Roads, where he
left them in safety, In May, 1810, Capt. Brenton, in command of the
Spartan frigate, while cruising off Naples was attacked by a French
squadron. A heavy fire was opened on her, and in a few minutes Capt.
Brenton was dangerously wounded. The command then devolved upon
Lieut. George Wickens Willes, already mentioned.* A good position
was gained by the Spartan, and the French squadron retreated under the
batteries, but the frigate Sparviere was captured by the former. For the
distinguished part which he took in this action, Lieut. Willes was
promoted to the rank of commander. In the following year Capt. Willes
had the Leveret on the Yarmouth station. One of her boats, with one
from the Osprey and one from the Britomart captured the lugger Eole
of Dunkirk, of 14 guns, near Heligoland. Admiral Lord Gardner was in
1811 in command at Yarmouth. Lord George Stuart at this time
commanded the 88-gun frigate Horatio; and her boats captured a
Danish cutter on the coast of Norway. In March of this year the Ex-King
of Sweden sailed from Yarmouth on his return to the continent. In 1811
the Americana, on a voyage from Amsterdam to Boston, was captured
and brought in by H. M. S. Desireé. On board the prize was found a
female slave, who it appears had been purchased by Col. Predyon of the
East India Company's Service of her mother at Ceylon. The mayor
applied to the African Institution to procure the liberation of the girl
from slavery. Zachary Macaulay, the father of Lord Macaulay, then
secretary of that society, suggested that the captain of the frigate, in
libelling his prize in the Admiralty Court, should include the girl among
the goods and chattels; for, if the legality of the capture were confirmed
by the court, the girl would be freed from her old master and
"condemned into liberty," and placed under the custody of the Collector
of Customs. Lord Cathcart, Ambassador extraordinary to the Court of
Russia, accompanied by Lord Walpole, Secretary of Legation,
embarked here in 1812, the former on board
* See vol. i.., p. 269. George, his eldest son, was in 1874 advanced to the rank of R e a r - A d mi r a l .
GREAT YARMOUTH
195
the Aquilon for St. Petersburgh, the latter in the Calipso for the head-
quarters of the Russian army. On the 15th of April, 1813, the Prince of
Orange landed at the Jetty. In the same month Sir Charles Stewart,
brother to Lord Castlereagh, then Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs;
the recently appointed Ambassador to the Court of Berlin, embarked in
the Nymphe and was landed at Cuxhaven.* Admiral Sir William
Bowles, writing from on board the Aquilon in Yarmouth Roads in 1812,
says, in a letter to Lord Fitzharris, "I have come here for a week to
refresh my people; for a month's cruise off the Texel knocks them up
more than five times that period to the westward." In 1813 the Duke of
Cumberland embarked from Yarmouth, when proceeding to Hanover as
the king's representative for that Electorate, on the French being driven
out of Germany. f On the 11th of August, 1813, the Earl of Aberdeen
embarked here on board the Cydnas frigate on a special mission to the
Emperor of Austria, accompanied by the Hon. E. Lamb as public
secretary, and by Mr. Morier as private secretary. In November of this
year the Duke of Clarence landed at the Jetty. In 1813 a subscription
amounting to near £400 was entered into for the parents, widows,
orphans, and others depending for support on the brave men who lost
their lives in the St. George, Defence, Hero, Saldanha, and others of his
majesty's ships during the preceding winter. Rear-Admiral Sir Edward
Berry, K.C.B., was frequently at Yarmouth. t Another officer well
known in Yarmouth was Rear-Admiral Black, R.N., who had served as
a midshipman with Lord Howe and Lord Bridport when they gained
their respective victories. He was at the taking of Surinam in 1799, and
after being for many years engaged in active service, and having
commanded the Racoon from 1809 to 1814 retired to Ormesby, where
he died in 1853, aged 81. When in command of the Weasel in the
Mediterranean
* See Diaries and Letters of Sir George Jackson, vol. iv., p. 66, wherein Sir Charles is
frequently mentioned, as also Lord Aberdeen, Lord Walpole, Lord Cathcart, and Mr. O.
B. Rumbold, who was afterwards for so many years M.P. for Yarmouth.
f He was conveyed to Gottenburg by the Nymphen, 42, commanded by Capt.
Hancock, an officer well known in Yarmouth, who died a Rear-Admiral in 1840, aged 73,
t See vol. ii, p. 193. He was presented with the freedom, of the borough.
196
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
in 1813 she was attacked by gunboats, and was fired upon from a
battery she was obliged to pass. Capt. Black compelled the gunboats to
sheer off, but the Weasel sustained heavy loss. Another officer well
known in Yarmouth was Capt. Macnamara, who in 1803 shot Lieut.-Col
Montgomery in a duel, on account of a difference arising out of a fight
between their dogs in Hyde Park. Capt. Macnamara was himself
severely wounded. He served with distinction under Nelson and Jervis.
Having been appointed to the Dictator, 74, he served for two years on
the North-Sea station; and then removed to the Edgar. In 1808 he was
employed in the Baltic, and was next appointed to the Berwick, 74, in
which he was engaged on various services in the North Sea. He died a
Rear-Admiral in 1826. The West Norfolk Regiment of Militia, which
had been doing duty at Edinburgh, landed here, 14th July, 1814, under
the command of Lieut.-Colonel Nelthorpe* One effect of the peace of
1815 was that on the 24th of September in that year, eight large French
fishing boats from Dieppe made their appearance in Yarmouth Roads,
and also forty sail of Dutch schuyts. In 1815 there landed from H. M. S.
Ernest a little fair-haired midshipman, who was destined in after years
to fight with a keener weapon than a dirk— D OUGLAS J ERROLD . J In
1820 Sir Charles Bagot, Ambassador to St. Petersburgh, embarked on
board the Liffey, 50 guns, commanded by Capt. Sir Henry Duncan. The
Right Hon. Vesey Fitzgerald, Ambassador to Sweden and Russia,
embarked here in 1820. J The Duke of
* The Nelthorpes in 1717 purchased of Sir Charles Turner an estate at Linford in
Norfolk, upon which, they erected "a very agreeable seat," instead of the old hall which
had been the residence of the Mundfords. They also purchased an estate at Hilburgh in
Norf lk of the Hares.
o
f He was a son of Samuel Jerrold, a strolling actor. His eldest brother adopted his
father's profession, and became a member of the Norwich, company, acting under the
assumed name of Fitzgerald. The Ernest was employed in conveying some of the soldiers
wounded at Waterloo to England, and young Jerrold became so disgusted by the scenes he
witnessed as to induce him to quit the navy. The poor invalids binding their sores upon
deck—their raw stumps and festering wounds— "their groans and curses—gave rise to
that horror of war which abided in him through life. He had been as it were behind the
scenes, and had witnessed the dire effects of war denuded of its excitement and glory.
t The rapid extension of railways to all parts of the continent has rendered a sea
voyage, even under steam, less rapid and convenient than a journey by land, and Great
Yarmouth has ceased to be a place of embarkation.
GREAT YARMOUTH
197
Clarence, afterwards King William. II., and his duchess, afterwards
Queen Adelaide, landed here. In 1858 two Prussian frigates, one the
Thetis (which the English government had exchanged for two gunboats)
and the other the Gefion, under the command of Prince Adalbert of
Prussia, east anchor in the Roads; and after the firing of salutes Prince
Von Schwartizburgh-Sonderhausen and other officers landed. In
September of the same year came into the harbour the screw-steamer
yacht Grille (Grasshopper), belonging to the King of Prussia, then
considered the fastest screw steamer afloat. She was commanded by
Baron Bothwell, and there were on board Lieut. Baron St. Paul, Baron
Dobenack, and Count Monte. The last time a wooden fleet ever sailed
into Yarmouth Roads was on the 30th of June, 1860. It was a glorious
sight to those who had never seen the like; and it revived the memory of
the past to those who had. The flag-ship, Royal Albert, 121 guns, having
on board Admiral Dacres, led the van, closely followed by the Donegal,
101; Edgar, 91 ; Aboukir, 91; Conqueror, 101; Trafalgar, 91; Centurion,
91; Algiers, 91; Mara, 80; Mersey, 40; Diadem, 32; and the covettes
Greyhound and Locust. They entered by Hewett's channel, and proved
to demonstration that the largest vessels in the royal navy could use it
with safety. These wooden ships, gorgeous in appearance, rich in
tradition, and associated in the past with all our naval glories, will be
seen no more. In 1860 Prince Napoleon, son of Jerome once King of
Westphalia, embarked from the Britannia Pier on board the Imperial
Yacht, Jerome Napoleon, waiting there to receive him, and proceeded to
Scotland. In May 1862, a portion of the Channel fleet visited Yarmouth;
and on the 1st of June the St. George, 90 guns, with 900 men, having;
Prince Alfred (afterwards Duke of Edinburgh) on board, anchored in the
Roads. Attended by the Rev. W. L. Onslow and Major Cowell, the
prince landed and witnessed a cricket match on the South Denes. In
August, 1862, part of the Channel fleet of ironclads, under the command
of Rear-Admiral Randolph, C.B., anchored in Yarmouth Roads. The
admiral's ship was the Achilles, of 6,121 tons and 1,250 horse power,
and carried 750 men . On the 14th of July, 1863, the Channel squadron,
under the command of Admiral Dacres, brought up in Yarmouth Roads;
comprising nine ships of 6,300 horse-
198
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
power, carrying 293 guns and 4,799 men. In 1869 the Extradition Act
was put in force here. Soren Sorenson, a young Danish seaman, was
brought on shore under an order from the Secretary of State. When the
Danish brig Peter was lying in the harbour of Marseilles, a quarrel took
place on board her between the deceased and another seaman, named
Christian Hunsen, over a prune pie which the men had at dinner, and of
which the deceased was accused of taking more than his share. A fight
ensued, when the prisoner getting the worse of it, seized a knife and
struck the deceased with it on his left side just under his heart, and two
days afterwards he died of the wound. The vessel sailed from Marseilles
to this port, and on her arrival the accused was brought before the
Borough Magistrates and handed over to the Danish authorities. In
May, 1872, the Dutch man-of-war brig Tornate, Capt. Ten Bosch, came
into the harbour. Being a training ship she had on board 100 boys. The
last occasion upon which any portion of the Channel fleet anchored in
Yarmouth Roads was on Sunday, the 20th of September, 1874, when the
armour-plated ship Northumberland of 6,621 tons, the Sultan , 5,281 tons,
and the Monarch turret-ship of 5,710 tons, steamed through the Cockle
Gat and brought up in line opposite the town, where they remained until
the 23rd of September; thus giving the inhabitants an opportunity of
estimating the progress made in the art of naval warfare. This portion of
the Channel fleet was under the command of Rear-Admiral George
Hancock.*
T HE first house fronting the sea to the south of the Assembly Rooms
was erected by J AMES C UDDON , Esq., barrister-at-law, f from a design
by Morant, for his own residence, and was by him called
* He was of a Norfolk family, and his father, Capt. Hancock, had seventy years
previously commanded a man-of-war on the Yarmouth station. As Admiral Hancock and
some officers of the fleet were leaving the Town Hall, where a ball had been given in
their honour, two women fell into the river. Lieut. Newington of the marines, attached to
H. M. S, Sultan, immediately jumped in and saved them both. In acknowledgment of this
gallant act a subscription was entered into, and Lieut. Newington was presented with a
breech-loading fowling-piece.
f Edward Cuddon was Bailiff of Dunwich in 1302, and was the ancestor of the
Cuddons of Shaddingfield, Sotterley, and Weston in Suffolk, and of the City of
GREAT YARMOUTH
199
Shaddingfield Lodge. Subsequently (from 1868 to 1871) it was occupied by
Arthur Henry Jenney, Esq,* It has recently been purchased by Samuel
Nightingale, Esq., for his own residence. A view of this house has been
given in vol. ii., p. 206.
When it became know that the Prince of Wales intended to visit
Yarmouth, Mr. Cuddon promptly offered Shaddingfield Lodge for the
reception of His Royal Highness and his suite; and such offer having
been accepted, Mr. Cuddon spared no expense or trouble in rendering the
house suitable for his distinguished guest. The Prince of Wales arrived
Norwich. The same appears on the court roll, for the Manor of Sotterley in 1434. They
acquired by marriage a good estate at Shaddingfield, which they held for some years.
Suckling's Suffolk, vol. i., p. 294. There is a pedigree of Cuddon in Sylvanus Morgan's
M.S. collections preserved at Blickling Hall. They bore arg., a chev. gu. on a chief arg.,
three bezant or. Bernard James Cuddon, tho only child of James Cuddon, Esq., married in
1869 Harriett, only child of Angus Fletcher, Esq., of Dunans, Argyleshire, and assumed in
addition the name of Fletcher.
* He is descended from an old family seated from a very early period at Knottishall in
Suffolk, and at Knodeshall and Hardwick in Norfolk. They bore for their arms— erm., a
bend gu., cotised or., which they quartered with the shields of
Fastolf and other ancient families ; and for a crest on a glove in fess
arg., a hawk or falcon close or., belled, Francis Jenney of
Knodeshall married Anne, daughter and co-heir of George Rede of
Thorington, Suffolk. Sir William Jenney was a Judge of the King's
Bench in 1477; and Sir Christopher Jenney, his grandson, was a
Judge of Common Pleas in 1530, William Jenney, the father of the
last-named judge, married in 1470 Audrey, daughter of Sir Robert
Clare, Knt., of Ormesby. John Jenny was Member for Norwich in
1452, and again in 1477. He married Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Thomas
Wetherby, a rich Alderman of Norwich, from whom be acquired an estate at Intwood,
afterwards sold to the Greshams. William Wayte, writing to John Paston in 1450, after
advising him "to labour to be Knight of the Shire, recommends him to "ordain that John
Jenney be burgess for Yarmouth," for, adds he, "they (the Jenneys) can say well." Arthur
Jenney of Knodishall married in 1559 Elye, daughter of George Jernegan, Esq., of
Somerleyton. This family of Jenney is now seated at Bredfield in Suffolk, which estate
was acquired in 1683 by the marriage of Edmund, second son of Sir Robert Jenney, Knt.,
with Dorothy, daughter and co-heir of Robert Marryott of Bredfield, Kirby, p. 140; Page,
p.24 5. Persons of the same name, if not of the same family, formerly resided in Yarmouth,
William Gregson Jenney had a house on the west side of King Street; and William
Jenney, merchant, was a freeman of Yarmouth, and voted at the contested election in
1812. The name is supposed to have been originally Guisnes, and thence corrupted to
Gyney and Jenney.
198
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
power, carrying 293 guns and 4,799 men. In 1869 the Extradition Act
was put in force here. Soren Sorenson, a young Danish seaman, was
brought on shore under an order from the Secretary of State. When the
Danish brig Peter was lying in the harbour of Marseilles, a quarrel took
place on board her between the deceased and another seaman, named
Christian Hunsen, over a prune pie which the men had at dinner, and of
which the deceased was accused of taking more than his share. A fight
ensued, when the prisoner getting the worse of it, seized a knife and
struck the deceased with it on his left side just under his heart, and two
days afterwards he died of the wound. The vessel sailed from Marseilles
to this port, and on her arrival the accused was brought before the
Borough Magistrates and handed over to the Danish authorities. In
May, 1872, the Dutch man-of-war brig Tornate, Capt. Ten Bosch, came
into the harbour. Being a training ship she had on board 100 boys. The
last occasion upon which any portion of the Channel fleet anchored in
Yarmouth Roads was on Sunday, the 20th of September, 1874, when the
armour-plated ship Northumberland of 6,621 tons, the Sultan , 5,281 tons,
and the Monarch turret-ship of 5,710 tons, steamed through the Cockle
Gat and brought up in line opposite the town, where they remained until
the 23rd of September; thus giving the inhabitants an opportunity of
estimating the progress made in the art of naval warfare. This portion of
the Channel fleet was under the command of Rear-Admiral George
Hancock.*
T HE first house fronting the sea to the south of the Assembly Rooms
was erected by J AMES C UDDON , Esq., barrister-at-law, f from a design
by Morant, for his own residence, and was by him called
* He was of a Norfolk family, and his father, Capt. Hancock, had seventy years
previously commanded a man-of-war on the Yarmouth station. As Admiral Hancock and
some officers of the fleet were leaving the Town Hall, where a ball had been given in
their honour, two women fell into the river. Lieut. Newington of the marines, attached to
H. M. S, Sultan, immediately jumped in and saved them both. In acknowledgment of this
gallant act a subscription was entered into, and Lieut. Newington was presented with a
breech-loading fowling-piece.
f Edward Cuddon was Bailiff of Dunwich in 1302, and was the ancestor of the
Cuddons of Shaddingfield, Sotterley, and Weston in Suffolk, and of the City of
GREAT YARMOUTH
201
The building was afterwards purchased by Mr. Thomas Fryer
Garwood, who greatly enlarged the house, which however remained a
wooden structure, and entirely on the ground floor. It was for many
years occupied by Viscount Nevill,* until he succeeded his father in the
Earldom of Abergavenny in 1843. This property was then purchased by
Lady King of Madingley near Cambridge, widow of Admiral Sir
Richard King, Bart., who had died at Sheerness of cholera when
commander-in-chief at the Nore in 1834. Lady King made it her
occasional residence for many years. f Of Lady King this property was
purchased on behalf of Mrs. Birch, J the widow of George Wyrley
* He was born on Christmas day, 1789. He first held a commission in the army and
was present at the battle of Waterloo, where he was wounded. After the peace he entered
at Christ's College, Cambridge, whore he took his M.A. degree in 1818, and having been
ordained priest; was presented by his father to the valuable Rectory of Bergh Apton with
Holveston in Norfolk, which he resigned on taking up his residence in Yarmouth. In
1826, on the death of his elder brother, he assumed the courtesy title of Viscount Nevill;
and in 1843 he succeeded to the earldom. He then left Yarmouth for his ancestral sent,
Bridge Castle, near Tunbridge Wells, where he died in 1845, unmarried, and was
succeeded by his only surviving brother, the Hon. and Rev. William Nevill, Vicar of
Frant and Birling in Kent.
f Lady King died at Madingley in 1871. She was a daughter of Admiral Sir Charles
Cotton, sometime Commander-in-chief of the Channel Fleet, by Philadelphia his wife,
eldest daughter of Sir Joshua Rowley, Bart., and was sister to Sir St. Vincent Cotton,
Bart., who died unmarried in 1863, when the title became extinct . There was at Madingley
a M.S. account of the Cotton family by Cole. The baronetcy was conferred by Charles I,
on Sir John Cotton of Landwade and Madingley a resolute cavalier, who, upon the
breaking out of the civil war, boldly proclaimed the Earl of Essex, Lord General of the
Parliament, a traitor in all the towns and villages in Cambridgeshire, and conveyed to
Oxford the plate sent from Cambridge for the use of the king, despite a hot pursuit by the
roundheads. Madingley was occupied by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, when a student at
Cambridge. Sir Richard King commanded the Achille, 74, at the battle of Trafalgar, where
he engaged two Spanish Line-of-battle ships, the Montanes and the Argouaute,
compelling one to strike and the other to sheer off. The oldest surviving son of Lady King
died in 1870, a Colonel in the Grenadier Guards. He served with the 49th Regiment at the
battles of Alma and Inkermann, the siege of Sebastopol and the assault upon the Redan,
where he was severely wounded, and lost his right hand by amputation. William, her
younger son, now a Major in the 17th Regiment of Foot, was in the memorable Balaclava
charge, and had his helmet nearly cut through. The oldest daughter of Lady King married
Dr. Hills, Bishop of Columbia.
t Daughter of the late Richard Congreve, Esq., of Congreve in Staffordshire, who
202
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
Birch, Esq., eldest son of Wyrley Birch, Esq., of Wretham Hall,
Norfolk.* The wooden house was then taken down and one of white
brick erected upon the site, and a large piece of waste lying between the
original boundary and the Marine Drive was obtained and added to the
grounds.
Previous to the last purchase of the above-mentioned house it had
been occupied for a short time by Lord Charles Vere Ferrars
Townshend, second son of George, second Marquis Townshend. He
married his cousin Charlotte, eldest daughter of General Loftus. She
died in 1866, aged 73. Lord Charles was heir presumptive to the
marquisate, but died in 1853, aged 68, before his brother the third
marquis, on whose death (at his villa near Genoa) in 1856, s.p., the title
devolved on Capt. Townshend, R.N., elder son of Lord John
Townshend, son of George, first Marquis Townshend. Capt. Lord
James Townshend, B. N., younger brother to Lord Charles, was a
frequent visitor at Yarmouth. He died s.p. in 1842, aged 56.
The T OWNSHENDS of Rainham, one of the most ancient families in Norfolk, f
commenced their political connection with the Borough of
bore sa., a chev. betw. three battleaxes arg. Of this family was William Congreve, the
dramatist.
* He died in 1860, aged 85, having filled the office of High
Sheriff of Norfolk in 1848, as his father had done in 1803. The
Birchs of Wretham descend from the Birchs of Birchfield,
Handsworth, Staffordshire, where they were seated in the time of
Queen Elizabeth, They bore az., three fleur-de-lys with a canton
arg.; and for a crest, a fleur-de-lys charged with a cross fitchee
and entwined by a snake; and for a motto— Prudentia simplicitate.
The fleur-de-lys are said to have been bestowed on William de
Birch, for the valour displayed by him at the battle of Poitiers
when serving with, the Black Prince. The Wyrleys were also an
old Staffordshire family, an heiress carrying the name to the
Birchs. Jacob Thomas Birch, Esq., son of the above-named
Wyrley Birch, was the first Judge of the County Court for Norfolk,
which office he held till his death in 1866, He had an estate at
Ballycroy, County Tyrone. See vol. ii, p. 266.
f The Townshends, who were both of Saxon, and Norman descent, acquired the
Manor of Rainham in Norfolk temp. Henry I., and it has ever since remained in the
family. John Townshend who, temp. James I., was mortally wounded in a duel fought on
horseback at Hounslow Heath with Sir Matthew Browne of Beechworth.
GREAT YARMOUTH
203
Yarmouth, in 1708, when Colonel the Hon. Roger Townshend, second
son of Horatio, first Viscount Townshend, was returned as one of its
representatives to Parliament; and from that period they continued,
with, few interruptions, to supply one of the members until 1818.
Charles, second Viscount Townshend, elder brother of the Hon. Roger
Townshend, took a very distinguished part in public affairs in the early
part of the last century. He married, for his second wife, Dorothy, sister
of Sir Robert Walpole, and while these two ministers acted together
their influence, especially in Norfolk, was supreme. Lord Townshend
retired from public life in 1730, leaving Sir Robert Walpole in
undisputed ascendency; and died suddenly at Rainham in 1738. In 1714
the Hon. Horatio Townshend, another brother of the last-named
nobleman, was elected; and at subsequent periods three of the viscount's
sons successively represented the borough (viz;.), the Hon. Charles
Townshend, created vita patris Baron Lynn in 1722; the Hon. William
Townshend in 1728 ; and the Hon. Roger Townshend in 1737. The
Right Hon, Charles Townshend, second son of Charles, third Viscount
Townshend, was returned in 1747; and in 1756 Charles Townshend, Esq.,
only son of the Hon. William Townshend, the former member, was
elected, and retained his seat for the long period of thirty-three years,
during which, he was returned to Parliament eight times, and only
relinquished his position on being created Lord Bayning. George, fourth
Viscount Townshend, was advanced to the dignity of a marquis in
1786.* He had fought at Dettingen, Fontenoy, Culloden, and Lafeldt. f
He commanded at the siege of Quebec after the death of
Castle (who was also slain), was the father of Roger Townshend created a baronet in
1817 , and the son of the latter, Sir Horatio Townshend, the famous cavalier, was
advanced to the peerage in 1661, and created Viscount Townshend in 1662. There is a
superstition that before the death of any member of the family the "White Lady" is seen
flitting about the long corridors of Rainham Hall. She was last seen a few days before the
decease of the late marquis in 1863, and caused great terror among the domestics,
* George III. offered to create him Marquis of Rainham, which title he accepted; but
when ho mentioned what he had done to his mother, she advised him not to abandon the
time- nored name of Townshend, and the marquisite was changed at his request.
ho
f As "General Townshend" he was brave, reckless, and witty; and possessed the
faculty of portraying by his pencil (in caricatures) the foibles and absurdities of
204
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
Wolfe, and was made a Field Marshal and Viceroy of Ireland. In 1791 he was
elected High. Steward of Yarmouth ; and at his lordship's invitation the mayor
accompanied by several members of the corporation paid a visit to Rainham,
where they presented the marquis with the patent of office, In the following
year he was appointed Lord-Lieutenant of Norfolk, and died in 1807, aged 87.
There is a tradition that on his visits to Yarmouth he was accustomed to scatter
money from his carriage window, which indeed was a common practice among
great men in those days.
In 1784 the Earldom of Leicester was conferred upon Lord de Ferrars,* the
eldest son of the Marquis Townshend, in consideration of his descent through
his mother, the Baroness de Ferrars, both from the Saxon and Norman Earls of
Leicester.
The last member of the Townshend family who represented Yarmouth was
General Loftus. The family of Loftus flourished in Yorkshire at a very early
period. Descended from them was Adam Loftus, who was Rector of Feltwell in
Norfolk. He went to Ireland as private secretary to the Earl of Sussex, and was
appointed Lord Chancellor of that kingdom in 1582. From him General Loftus
was lineally descended, and ultimately became head of the family, and inherited
their estate at Kilbride in Wicklow. He entered the army as Cornet of the 9th
Dragoon Guards in 1770, served in North America and was engaged at Bunker's
Hill. He raised and was appointed Colonel of the 24th Light Dragoons, became
a Major-General on the Staff in 1796, and commanded a brigade at Vinegar Hill
in the Irish rebellion. Having married, for his second wife, the Lady Elizabeth
Townshend, daughter of the Marquis Townshend, High Steward of Yarmouth,
he was in 1796 returned for the borough, and was re-elected in 1812, and sat
‘till 1818
those with whom he associated. He was generous, full of bonhommie, and withal a
considerable Gourmand. When in front of the enemy his frequent practice was, after
dinner, to mount his horse and accompanied by his aide-de-camp to ride close to the
enemy's picquets, quizzing and chaffing the Frenchmen. Reminiscences of a Scottish
Gentleman, p. 40. A ludicrous instance is given, nearly attended with fatal results;
but fortunately there were no "arms of precision" in those days. See P. C, p. 332.
* When Lord de Ferrars asked his father's permission to take a peerage, the
marquis replied he might take what title he pleased except that of "Marquis
Townshend."
GREAT YARMOUTH
205
when, he was defeated.* In 1813 he attained the rank of full general,
was Governor of Dumbarton Castle and Lieutenant of the Tower of
London. He died in 1831. Loftus bore sa., a chev. eng. erm., betw.
three trefoils slipped arg.
On the death of the Marquis Townshend in 1807. Lord Bayning,
who as we have seen sat so many years in Parliament for the borough,
was elected high steward; and upon his death Viscount Sydney, who
was the son of Thomas Townshend, first Lord Sydney, eldest son of
Thomas Townshend, second son of Charles, second Viscount Townshend,
was elected; and upon his death in 1831 the political connection between
the Townshend family and the Borough of Yarmouth finally ceased.
Among the temporary tenants of Telegraph House may be named
the Rev. J. W. Donaldson, D.D., well known for his classical attainments
and biblical lore. He married Eleanor Leathes, daughter of Sir John
Mortlock (vol. i., p. 262), who died in 1851, aged 33. f Also Sir Charles
* See vol. i., p. 263. The poll was continued for three days at an enormous expense,
freemen, who were then the only voters, being brought from all parts of the country and
even from abroad; a practice then prevailing that the poll could be kept open so long as
one man per hoar polled. The veteran can be remembered as he appeared on the days of
election, dressed in a blue dress coat with official gilt buttons, nankeen trousers, shoes,
and white stockings. Teste me ipso. General Loftus, in a letter written to Sylas Neville in
1819, says "I am very sure that the first Marquis Townshend ever took in kindness any
communication that tended to promote the true interest of the Borough of Great
Yarmouth, for which place the family had been long attached by habits of intimacy and
friendship with many of the respectable families of that town." Major Henry Loftus, his
grandson, was at the taking of Sebastopol, served in India during the mutiny, and died at
Murree, India, in 1863.
f Dr. Donaldson occasionally preached at St. Nicholas' Church. He received his early
education in the London University, and proceeded to Trinity College, Cambridge, where
he obtained the highest place but one in classical honors, and obtained a Trinity
Fellowship. After producing his New Cratilus, a work of extraordinary character for so
young a writer, he contributed to philological science a long series of publications,
elucidating the genius and structure of the classical languages. For a few years he was
Head Master of the Bury St. Edmunds School; but resigning that post devoted himself
ever after to literature. His attainments in languages were very great; and his powers of
memory extraordinary. The dates, names, and minutest details of history were ever
present to his mind, and he could illustrate a philological argument by instant quotations
from the most recondite Greek plays and treatises with as much facility as if they were
the popular ballads of his own country.
206
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
Chad of Thursford, the last baronet, of that name, who died s.p. in
1855, aged 76. At Telegraph House also resided for a short time
Colonel Sir Thomas Trowbridge*, Bart., C.B., Deputy-Adjutant
General at the Horse Guards. He was the son of Admiral Sir Edward
Trowbridge, Bart., by his wife, Anna Maria, a daughter of Sir
Alexander Cochrane and niece of Admiral the Earl of Dundonald. He
was grandson of Sir Thomas Trowbridge, who in 1799 was created a
baronet for his services at the battle of the Nile, and who represented
the Borough of Yarmouth in Parliament from 1802 to 1806. See P. C.
p. 229.
To the south of Telegraph House is the Royal N AVAL H OSPITAL ,
which was built when the want of such an establishment at Yarmouth
had been much felt during the war with France which raged so furiously
for many years, The first stone was laid in 1809 by Admiral Billy
Douglas, then port-admiral; and the buildings were completed in 1811
at a cost of about £120,000. Pilkington was the architect, and Mr. Henry
Peto the contractor; f and the latter it is said to have realized, by his
contract a considerable sum, having discovered brick-earth on
excavating a dock at Southtown. t The war however was then
On biblical subjects he indulged in speculations which were not approved by some of the
orthodox clergy. Great as his mental powers were, he over-tasked them; both mind and
body gave way, and he died in 1861 at the early age of 48. Crabb Robinson frequently
mentions him in his Diary.
* Sir Thomas Trowbridge was born in 1815, and entered the army in 1834. On the
outbreak of the war with Russia he proceeded with his regiment to the East, and headed a
storming party when ascending the heights of Alma, and was afterwards engaged at the
seige of Sebastopol. At the battle of Inkermann a shot carried off his right leg and left
foot. Notwithstanding his terrible wounds he insisted upon remaining where he fell, his
legs lifted on a gun-carriage, until the victory was won. On his return homo he married
Louisa Jane, daughter of Daniel Gurney, Esq., of North Runcton by the Lady Harriet
Gurney his wife, daughter of the Earl of Errol. She died on the 29th of August, 1867, after
a few days' illness, and Sir Thomas on the 2nd of October following, leaving a family of
eight children,
f He was uncle to Sir Samuel Morton Peto, Bart., to whom he left a considerable
fortune. His statue (of baked cement) stands at the head of the avenue at Somerleyton.
There is a duplicate in the Square of Furnivals Inn, London, the houses in which were
rebuilt by him.
t The first naval officer in charge was Capt Larke, already mentioned (vol. ii., p.
144). He married (first) Mary, daughter of Joseph Haw of Yarmouth, by whom he had a
son who settled as a merchant in South America.
GREAT YARMOUTH
207
nearly over so far as the navy was concerned. No "glorious victory"
sent its victims to this hospital until after Waterloo, when it opened its
doors to the wounded of the sister service, many of whom died and
were buried within its walls. It was next turned into barracks, but was
very rarely used as such. Capt. George William Manby, whose name is
inseparately connected with the apparatus brought into use by him for
saving the lives of shipwrecked, mariners, was appointed the first
Barrack Master, and for many years occupied one of the officers'
houses; being that to the north on the west side. In 1844 this building
was converted into a Military Lunatic Asylum, and was so occupied for
some years.* Upon the breaking out of the war with Russia the
Admiralty claimed the building; the lunatic inmates were removed, and
it was fitted in every respect to receive the sick and wounded from the
fleet sent to the Baltic under Sir Charles Napier;—but none came.
When peace was proclaimed this building was lent by the Admiralty to
the War Office, and it was made into a Convalescent Hospital for the
reception of the wounded soldiers from Lucknow and Cawnpore, and
our other battles in India; and most efficacious was the bracing air of
Yarmouth in these cases. f The establishment was then placed under the
charge of Capt. Jervois; having under him Capt. Naylor. t Once more
the Admiralty claimed the building and converted it to the purposes of a
Naval Lunatic Asylum.§ Its boundaries were enlarged by taking in
ground belonging to the hospital on the north and west sides, and by the
purchase of ten acres of ground lying between the hospital and the sea,
for which Government paid the Town Council £10,000, subject to a
condition not to build on the land but to keep it open for ever as a
recreation ground,
* Under Dr. Sillery, who afterwards resided at Charlton near Dover; and Dr. C. L.
Robertson, who afterwards became Medical Superintendent of the Sussex County Lunatic
Asylum at Hayward's Heath.
f Here died in 1859 W. Irwin, Esq., staff-surgeon, who had served with distinction
in the Crimea. He was interred in the churchyard with full military honors. The whole of
the Donegal regiment turned out upon the occasion, their Lieut.-Colonel, Lord Claude
Hamilton, acting as chief mourner.
t Afterwards Lieut.-Colonel, who died at Bognor in 1864, aged 75.
§ Here died in 1869 Charles Kinnear, M.D., Deputy Inspector General of Hospitals
and Fleets.
208
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
When not required for Government purposes the "officers' houses" were
let to private individuals, and in one of them on the north side resided for some
years Benjamin Cobb, Esq.* He married Frances, daughter of John Cartwright,
Esq., of Ixworth Abbey, Suffolk. She died in 1853, aged 82 ; and their son, the
Rev. Robert Cobb, assumed by royal sign manual the name and alms of
Cartright (erm.) a fess m., betw. three fireballs of the second; and for a crest, a
wolf's head erased or., pierced through the neck with a spear arg., issuing
flames ppr.) on succeeding to the Ixworth Abbey estate on the death of his
brother-in-law and first cousin, Richard Norton Cartwright, Esq. f
Before leaving the hospital let us revert to "Barrack Master Manby. : " He
was born at Denver in Norfolk in 1765, and Was the eldest son of Matthew
Pepper Manby, Esq., of Hilgay in the same county, by Mary his wife, a
daughter of John Woodcock, Esq., of Lynn. The father, an officer in the army,
served under the first Marquis Townshencl, and was present at the taking of
Quebec in 1759, where, after the death of the gallant Wolfe, Lord Townshend
assumed the chief command. When his lordship was appointed Viceroy, Manby
accompanied the marquis to Ireland in the capacity of aide-de-camp,
* He was no relation to the Yarmouth, family of Cobb. He descended from John
Cobb of Cobb's Court in the marshes of Romsey in the County of Kent, who flourished in
tho reign of Edward II. His father married Amy Godfrey, of the ancient family of Godfrey
of Lydd already mentioned (see vol. ii., p. 189, where Lydd is printed Lidden), and her
descendants quarter the arms of Godfrey already given. The arms of this family of Cobb
are arg., a chev. betw. three cocks gu., combs and wattles or., and quartering a chev.
betw. three bulls' heads regardant for Le Blanc.
f He descended from a family long seated in Northamptonshire; his immediate
ancestor being John Cartwright, Esq, who married Isabella, daughter and co-heir of Col.
Richard Norton, by Isabella his wife, daughter of Julius Hutchinson by Betty his wife,
daughter of William Norton of Wellow in Hants. The Nortons were a branch of a very
ancient and honorable* family of that name in Hampshire; and by virtue of the above
marriage the Cartwrights acquired the Ixworth Abbey estate, and quartered the arms of
Norton— vert„ a lion ramp, or. Colonel Hutchinson and Sir Gregory Norton both signed
the warrrant for the execution of Charles I. The first Colonel Norton married a daughter
of Sir Compton Felton, who was lineally descended from the assassin of the Duke of
Buckingham. (See vol ii., p. 418.) It is a remarkable circumstance that from the time of
the dissolution the Ixworth Abbey estate passed through the possession of four distinct
families, all of whom died without male issue. (See vol. ii., p. 203.)
GREAT YARMOUTH
209
Lord Townshend having previously evinced his friendship and regard
by giving his name and becoming sponsor for his officers infant son.
The boy was sent to the Grammar School at Lynn, and after being
some time at an academy at Bromley in Middlesex, finished his
education at the Royal Military College at Woolwich, where he
acquired some knowledge of mechanics. Disappointed at not receiving a
commission ""with suitable rank " in the army, he entered the
Cambridgeshire Militia, and when quartered at Sudbury in 1703 married
a daughter of the Rev. Dr. Preston of Waldingfield, and took up his
residence in Wales. Unhappiness followed; a duel ensued; and it is said
that many of the eccentricities, which Capt. Manby afterwards exhibited
may in some measure be attributed to the wound in the head which he
then received. Suffering as he says in his Reminiscences (which were
partly put in type but never issued from the press) "the keenest sorrow
that could befall a man," he sought for and obtained a change of scene
on board the Bordelais, a fine frigate captured from the French, then
commanded by his brother, Capt. (afterwards Admiral) Manby. Having
left the Bourdelais he took up his residence at Clifton, and there was
visited with that Cacoethes scribendi, which remained with him to the
end of his life. In 1801 he published The History and Antiquities of
St. David's; which was followed by Sketches of the History and Natural
Beauties of Clifton, the Hotwells, and Vicinity, and by An Historic and
Picturesque Guide from Clifton, through the Counties of Monmouth,
Glamorgan, and Brecknock. In 1803 he published an Englishman's
Reflections an the author of the present disturbances, which attracted
the attention of the Right Hon. Charles Yorke, (then Secretary of War)
who gave him the appointment of Barrack Master at Great Yarmouth.
There being at that time no official residence, he took lodgings, as he
informs us , in an obscure row, where Mrs. Sleorgin, the widow of an
officer of the navy, also resided. He next took and furnished the
“Cottage on the Denes” already mentioned, which at that time was
within easy distance of the Barracks, and commanded an uninterrupted
view of the fleet in the roads . For four successive winters he had
witnessed those heart-rending scenes which so often accompanied the
stranding of ships on this coast, frequently within a few yards of the
shore, but with no
210
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
means of saving their hapless crews. In February, 1807, the Snipe gun-
brig grounded near the harbour's month, and Capt, Manby saw sixty-
seven of those on board, thirty of whom were Trench, prisoners and
some women, perish within a short distance of the beach, there being at
that time no means of obtaining any communication with the
unfortunate vessel.* So disastrous was this gale that 147 dead bodies
were cast on shore within thirty miles along the coast. This destruction
of human life made a deep impression on the mind of Capt. Manby, and
from that time he perseveringly devoted himself to perfect a plan for
throwing a rope over a stranded vessel, and hauling the crew on shore
by means of a cradle. How to propel a shot that would carry a rope, was
the first difficulty. A balista was first thought of, but this would have
been an unwieldy machine unfit for the purpose. It next occurred to him
that a mortar might be used. So early as 1783 he had thrown a line from
a small mortar over Downham Church, which had convinced him that
the idea was practicable. Having obtained a mortar from the Board of
Ordnance, he made a series of trials to solve the problem how to
connect the shot to a rope in a secure manner. Chains of every kind
broke on the discharge, and the only thing found to answer the purpose
was a rope made of the strips of raw hide plaited closely together. In
1808 an opportunity occurred for putting in practice the result of his
labors. The brig Elizabeth of Plymouth was stranded within, about 150
yards of Yarmouth Beach. The waves were seen breaking over the
vessel and threatening to sweep away the crew who were clinging to the
masts. Capt. Manby brought down his apparatus and succeeded in
throwing a line over the vessel by means of which a boat was hauled
off, and the crew, seven in number, were brought safely on shore. Some
of the principal merchants and ship-owners of Yarmouth soon
afterwards held a meeting, at which they declared that, having seen
experiments successfully tried, they were of opinion, that the invention
was likely to prove highly serviceable, and recommended it to the
serious attention of Government. In 1810 the matter was brought before
Parliament, and a committee of investigation was appointed. It was then
found that in 1792 Lieut. Bell of the artillery had laid before
* The bodies were carted in two loads to Yarmouth Churchyard, where they
were buried.
GREAT YARMOUTH
211
the Society of Arts a plan for throwing a rope on shore by means of a
shell from a mortar on board a vessel in distress, and fifty guineas had
been awarded to him; but it was considered impracticable to use a mortar
for such a purpose on board a vessel, when buffeting with the winds and
waves. The report of the committee was so favourable that a grant of
£2,000 was made to Capt. Manby, and he was employed to report upon
what parts of the coast between Yarmouth, and the Firth of Perth it
would be judicious to place mortars ; and in the course of a few years
fifty-nine stations were selected and supplied with the apparatus. In
1823 a second Committee of the House of Commons was appointed, and
upon their report a further grant of public money was made to Capt.
Manby. Thus encouraged he turned his attention to other inventions of
more or less practical utility, especially in the constructions of life boats
and other means for saving life; and published numerous Essays and
Letters on these subjects. In 1821 he accompanied Capt. Scoresby on a
voyage to Greenland, for the purpose of trying an invention for
harpooning whales, which was not successful, and on his return published,
his Journal. The grants of money, which he received from Government
amounted in all to £6,700, and before his death he had the satisfaction of
knowing that he had been instrumental in saving more than one thousand
lives. The Royal Society admitted him among its members; and his fame
was not confined to this country, for he received honorary medals from
almost every crowned head in Europe, many of which he delighted in
wearing on public occasions. All men have their weaknesses, and Capt.
Manby was not an exception. Excessive vanity and egotism frequently
exposed him to ridicule when alive; but the services, which he rendered
to humanity will always cause his name to be held in grateful
remembrance. It is singular that, devoted as he was to the invention of
means for saving life from drowning, he was himself unable to swim. He
at one time commenced printing his own biography, but this was
suppressed at the instance of some judicious friends. Late in life he
married (secondly) Sophia, youngest daughter of Sir Thomas Gooch,
Bart. She died in 1843. He had no issue by either marriage.* After
quitting the Barracks,
* Among others who visited Capt. Manby when residing at the Barracks was
212
THE PERLUSTRATION
OF
Capt. Manby took up his residence in Southtown, where he died in
1854, in his 90th year. A portrait engraved by Blood from a picture by
Lane, appeared in the European Magazine in 1813. There is also a
portrait of him by Sir Thomas Lawrence, which he bequeathed to the
Town of Lynn. Also an etching by Mrs. Dawson Turner, and several
other portraits.*
Further south is an extensive pile of buildings erected in 1854 at
the expense of the county, upon ground granted for the purpose by the
Town Council and intended for the reception of the Staffs of the East
Norfolk Regiment of Militia and the Norfolk Militia Artillery; and as a
store for their arms. f These buildings will probably be taken over
that rough seaman, Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin, who had a plan for curing mackerel. He
died in 1839 aged 80.
* There is a pedigree of Manby published in the Norfolk Archaeology, vol. iii., p.
125, tracing the descent from Sir William Manby, Knt., temp. Edward III. They were, for
some generations, of Middleton in Yorkshire (see vol. i, p.244). John Manby, the grand-
father of Capt. G W. Manby, born in 1710, was an officer of customs in London, and
married Grace, daughter of Matthew Pepper of Gainsborough in Lincolnshire. Their son,
Capt. Matthew Pepper Manby, purchased the old Manor House of Easthill in Denver
about 1760 and Woodhall in Hilgay, and died in 1774, and was buried at Hilgay. The
second son of Capt, M. P. Manby was Rear-Admiral Thomas Moore Manby, whose name
was at one time associated in a delicate manner with that of Queen Caroline when
Princess of Wales, whom he first met at Rainham when on a visit to the Marchioness
Townshend. When, he was in command of the Africaine in 1804 that vessel lost her
rudder in a storm; and was towed into Yarmouth Roads by the Glation. 74. The next day
(November 28th) the wind blew heavily from the east, and the Africaine drove until very
near the shore; but by cutting away all her masts she was saved, and the next day hauled
off. Admiral Manby resided at Northwold in Norfolk; but died at the George Inn,
Southampton, in consequence of having taken an overdose of opium, aged 67. His eldest
daughter, Mary Harcourt, married (first) in 1827 James Dawes, Esq., who in the
following year was created Baron de Flasson, with letters of naturalisation in France,
enabling him to hold the royal domain at Flasson, presented to him by the Prince do
Conde, whose mysterious death soon afterwards, caused considerable scandal (see Annual
Register) ; and, secondly, Sir Cavendish Stuart Rumbold, Bart., nephew of C. E. Rumbold,
Esq., for many years M.P. for Great Yarmouth (see vol i, p. 336), She died at Norwich in
1850, Sir Cavendish died at Nice in 1953, aged 88, s.p. The admiral's second daughter,
Georgiana, married M. Adolphe Barrot, Consul-General for France in Egypt and China,
Elizabeth Annabella, a sister of Capt. G. W. Manby, resided for many years in Yarmouth,
and died unmarried in 1841, aged 74.
f Within the Barrack Square the Norfolk Agricultural Association held their annual
meeting on the 17th of June, 1883. The prizes awarded amounted in value to £650,
GREAT YARMOUTH
213
by Government as Yarmouth was selected by Lord Cardwell as a
Military Centre, or 31st Brigade Depot, to be composed of the 1st and
2nd Battalions of the 9th (East Norfolk) Regiment of the Line and the
Norfolk Militia Regiments} Colonel Knox, C.B., being appointed to the
command. When a plan was first proposed for raising a C OUNTY
M ILITIA , the measure was generally unpopular, and in some places riots
ensued. In Huntingdonshire men were so unwilling to offer themselves
that a pretended petition was got up from the women praying to be
enrolled! It was different in Norfolk where, on the contrary, the men
presented themselves with great alacrity, and the numbers required both
for officers and men were soon completed, the former being "dressed in
uniforms which were very handsome and genteel" (that is), scarlet with
black velvet-facings, collars, and cuffs, richly trimmed with gold lace.
Literary aid was also called in; and "A Norfolk Dumpling Eater"
published A Letter to the Norfolk Militia upon the Proceedings of
Ancient Nations when engaged in War. By the Militia Act passed in
1757 Norfolk and Norwich were required to furnish 960 men. Two
regiments were embodied in 1759 (viz.), the 1st or West Norfolk* and
the 2nd or East Norfolk. The latter was the first regiment of militia to
leave its own county. It marched in 1759 to Kensington en route for
Portsmouth, under the command of the Earl of Orford. At the former
place the regiment was reviewed by George II., who was greatly pleased
and "pulled off his hat to every officer." The Prince of Wales
(afterwards George III.) fell in with them at Richmond, and presented
each division with a bank note for £50. In Hyde Park they were
"received" by the Guards with bands playing and colours flying; and
were the "delight of 30,000 spectators." Mr. Wodehouse, of the
Kimberley family, and other gentlemen of the county marched as
privates. When quartered at Aldborough in Suffolk, Crabbe the poet
joined the regiment as surgeon, but soon afterwards abandoned the
medical profession (see vol. i., p. 170). In 1793 the Lord Lieutenants
of Counties met in
*William Windham, Esq., of Felbrigge was appointed Lieutenant-Colonel. He and
Mr. R. H. George Townshend published in 1759 Apian of Discipline for the use of the
Norfolk Militia, containing upwards of fifty plates; a work now rarely met with.
Windham is said to have accelerated his death in 1761 by hard study. He left a son, born
in 1760, who in 1810 became the celebrated Secretary of State.
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THE PERLUSTRATION OF
London, and drew lots to determine the precedence of the several
regiments of militia, when, the Norfolk Militia obtained the fourth place.
In the above year the regiment having been for some time at Yarmouth,
which from the first embodiment was its head quarters, proceeded to
Colchester and thence to Chatham; it being then the practice to march
the various regiments of militia to different parts of the kingdom; and at
Yarmouth there was a constant succession of regiments, as has already
been noticed.* In 1795 the East Norfolk regiment was sent to Braintree
in Essex for winter quarters; and in 1797 it was employed in guarding
the prisoners of war at Yaxley near Peterborough, When at Norman's
Cross Barracks near Stilton in that year, they lost their adjutant, Capt.
William Tapp; and in the same year most of the officers and men
volunteered to serve in Ireland. In 1800 the East Norfolk regiment was
quartered at Sheffield, and remained there for the winter. In the
following year they were stationed at Birmingham, Nottingham, and
Chelmsford, and in 1802 the regiment returned to head quarters and was
disembodied. On the renewing of hostilities with France in th.e
following year, the East Norfolk regiment again assembled at
Yarmouth, f under the command of Colonel the Hon. William Assheton,
Harbord j : In 1804 the regiment was stationed at Colchester; and in July
of that year was marched to Coxheath camp in Kent, and in May of the
following year was quartered at Hull, In 1811, when under the command
of Colonel the Hon. John Wodehouse, the East Norfolk regiment again
volunteered for service in Ireland, and was landed at Cork in November
of that year, and remained in Ireland until the peace of 1814, when it
returned to headquarters and was disembodied. When the news arrived
in 1815 of the escape of Napoleon from Elba, the regiment was
recruited at Yarmouth ' 'by beat of drum" preparatory to its being re-
embodied, but the victory of Waterloo and a speedy peace rendered this
unnecessary. In 1820, for the first time
* No regiment of militia could be removed, out of the kingdom; except, as was
facetiously remarked, "in case of invasion."
f The West Norfolk regiment was also embodied and stationed at Yarmouth,
under the command of Lieut.-Colonel Jack Petre of Westacre, Norfolk.
t He became the second Lord Suffield in 1810, married Lady Caroline Hobart,
daughter of John, second Earl of Buckinghamshire, and died in 1821.
GREAT YARMOUTH
215
afterwards, the East Norfolk regiment assembled at Yarmouth for
twenty-eight days training and exercise. In 1854, in consequence of the
war with Russia, this regiment was again embodied; and for a short time
was joined by its Colonel-in-chief, the Hon. Berkeley Wodehouse
(previously a Major in the 8th Hussars), at that time Governor of Ithaca,
who in 1842 had succeeded to the colonelcy on the resignation of his
father, Lord Wodehouse, grandfather of the present Earl of Kimberley.
On the 10th of September in the following year, at 11 o'clock a.m.,
when the regiment was being inspected by Colonel Pipon on the South
Denes, the mayor, who was present, received a telegram announcing the
capture of the Malakoff on the previous day, which news he
immediately communicated to Colonel Pipon; and in the evening, while
entertaining a party at dinner, the mayor had a second, telegram stating
the evacuation of Sevastopol by the Russians, which news was received
with great joy (teste me ipso). The East Norfolk regiment is now 814
strong, divided into eight companies, and is commanded, as Lieut.-
Colonel, by Honorary-Colonel Sir E.H.K . Lacon, Bart., M.P. for North
Norfolk. He succeeded in 1859 William Mason, Esq., of Necton;* who
had followed in 1824 Lieut.-Colonel William Durrant, appointed in
1808. f New colours were presented to this regiment on the 16th of May,
1854, on the South Denes. Benjamin Hobart Junck, appointed adjutant
of this regiment in 1806, died in 1815, aged 36. t He was succeeded by
Captain James
* Colonel Mason was the eldest of the two sons of William Mason, Esq., of Necton,
a Magistrate and Deputy-Lieutenant for Norfolk, who had been a favorite scholar of Dr.
Purr, mid who died in 1835 aged 79. The Masons of Necton descended from Paul Miller
Mason, a citizen of London, who in the reign, of Henry VII. fixed his residence at Necton
in Norfolk. This family bore arg., a fesse az., and two lions heads in chief az.; with a
lion's head winged az. as a crest. George Mason, the second son, assumed the name of
Blomefield. He was a Lieutenant-Colonel m the army, and for some years a Major in the
East Norfolk Militia, and died at Necton in 1871, aged 72, unmarried.
f He was the second son of Sir Thomas Durrant, first baronet, by Susannah his wife,
eldest daughter of Hambleton Custance, Esq., of Weston, High Sheriff of Norfolk in
1753. See vol. i., p. 204.
t There is a mural monument to his memory, erected "as a mark of esteem by his
brother officers" in the North Chancel Aisle of the Parish Church.
216
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
Guthrie, who had served for seventeen years in the 1st Regiment of Foot
Guards, and had been with them in Sicily and the North of Spain. He
was present at the battle of Corunna, served in the Walcheren
expedition, was sent again to Spain, and remained in the army until the
peace of 1814. He died in 1848, aged 72, having only a short time
previously resigned the adjutantcy which he had held for thirty years,
and was succeeded in 1846 by Capt. William Paynter Kennaway
Browne, previously of the 49th Regiment, with which he had served in
China. He was followed in 1858 by Captain Robert Charles Holmes,
already mentioned ante, p. 97; and was succeeded in 1861 by Captain
William Dods, previously of the 14th Regiment of the Line, with which
he had served in the Crimea.
A Regiment of Norfolk Militia Artillery was raised 17th of May,
1798. On the breaking out of the war with Russia this regiment was
revived 15th July, 1854, and placed under the command of Jacob, Lord
Hastings. It was speedily augmented; and then his lordship became
honorary-colonel, leaving the command to his younger brother, Lieut.-
Colonel Francis L'Estrange Astley. On the death of Lord Hastings in
1859 he was succeeded in the honorary command by his son, Lord
Hastings; and on the death of Lieut.-Colonel Astley, Lord Suffield was
appointed Lieut.-Colonel. Lord Hastings dying in 1871, the honorary
colonelcy was conferred by the Queen, immediately after the Army Act
of that year came auto operation, upon the Prince of Wales, whereupon
his royal highness expressed an intention of joining the regiment at their
next training. For a long time the severe and dangerous illness which
attacked the prince almost precluded the hope of his being able to do so;
but on his recovery he intimated his desire to fulfil his promise, and on
the 6th of June he came down to Yarmouth by the East Suffolk line,
accompanied by the Marquis of Hamilton, the Earl of Clonmell, Lieut.-
Col. Ellis, and others of his suite. The prince was received at the station
by the mayor and a deputation of the town council, who by their
recorder presented an address, after which his royal highness proceeded
to the Town Hall, where luncheon was provided for a large party,
including the Earl of Leicester, Lord Sondes, Lord Suffield, Hon. F.
Walpole, and other noblemen and gentlemen. In the evening the prince
GREAT YARMOUTH
217
dined with his regiment at the Southtown Barracks; and the town was
brilliantly illuminated.. On the following day his royal highness placed
himself at the head of his regiment, which was then inspected by
General Sir Edward Greathead on the South Denes.
The first adjutant of the Norfolk Militia Artillery was Captain John
Gilbertson, who retired with the honorary rank of major in 1874, and
was succeeded by Captain Maitland Moore-Lane, from the
Northumberland Artillery Militia.
At a little distance to the south, and adjoining the Marine Drive, is
the South Battery; behind which there is a Powder Magazine.
About midway between the Militia Barracks and the Haven's
mouth is the column erected by public subscription in 1815 in honor of
Nelson.* It was designed by Wilkins ; and the Latin inscription is from
the pen of Sergeant Firth. f In 1818 the corporation voted an additional
£50 in order to substitute a figure of Britannia on the top instead of a
Roman galley as originally intended; and to surround the erection with
an iron railing. When the structure was nearly completed (1st June,
1819), Thomas Sutton, town surveyor, who had been superintendent of
the works, ascended the Monument in his usual health; but when at the
top, was taken suddenly ill and expired there, aged 65.§ In 1863 (May
26th) an acrobat, named Marsh, ascended
* It is built of stone from Killalo. In cutting one of the blocks a portion of the branch
of a tree was discovered imbedded therein. The wood is now in the possession of Mr.
Hezekieh Martin.
f When created a peer in 1798, Nelson adopted his well-known motto, taken from
Dr. Jortin's Lusus Poetici "Ad ventos," stanza. 4, published in 1722.
t Nearly fifty years elapsed before the latter work was accomplished. A public
subscription was then entered into for the purpose, and the present iron fence was erected
from a design by Mr. Morant.
§ He was an arithmetician and a mathematician of considerable ability. He was born at
Bawdeswell in Norfolk in. 1754. In him, we are informed by his epitaph (more truthful
than such eulogies usually are) in St. Nicholas' Churchyard, "mental energy and
scientific Requirements wore united with laudable assiduity and dauntless probity." He
was apprenticed to a carpenter at Mattishall, afterwards went to Lynn, thence walked to
Yarmouth, where he was employed by Mr. John Ward of Southtown, and subsequently
worked in the dockyard of Jacob Preston, Esq,. He evinced from childhood a zeal for
the study of mathematics, and by dint of severe application, without any instruction,
attained to such proficiency that it is said of
218
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
the pillar (in which there is a circular stair), and passing between the
caryatides, clambered outside until he sat astride upon the shoulders of
the statue of Britannia. In attempting to descend he lost his footing, fell
to the ground, and was killed on the spot.
him he never had any mathematical question, put to him that he could not answer, but in
return set a problem which was never solved by the person to whom it was propounded.
In 1782 he relinquished his trade and opened a school, and in 1785 he proposed to publish
The Measurer's Best Companion, and subjoined to the advertisement of his work he
appended these lines :—
" Ye measurers all who would wish to aspire,
" No longer in simple decimals trust;
" Here true duodecimal knowledge acquire,
" Whose precepts are easy and principles Just.
But he met with no encouragement. In 1793 he took a bolder flight, and offered to
publish, in five volumes, by subscription, " The Elements of quantity, or a comprehensive
System of Mathematica, comprising—
1. The Moments of Computation, or a comprehensive System of Arithmetic ,
2 . The Elements of Measuration, or a comprehensive System of Geometry,
3. The Elements of Motion, or a comprehensive System of Mechanics.
4 . The Element's of Vision, or a comprehensive System of Optics,
5. Particulars selected, or the mixed Mathematical Science. " The whole fully
exemplified and clearly demonstrated by Thomas Sutton, Philo-* f math." He howev-r
could not find a sufficient number of subscribers, and he was too poor to take the risk of
publication on himself. He commenced a common-place book in 1788, and continued it
for many years, adopting for a motto—
" Surely no minutes bring us more content
Than those in pleasing, useful studies spent."
The following letter painfully discloses his great poverty and domestic discomfort. It is
addressed to Mr. Lilly Wigg, who had propounded to him a mathematical question for
solution:—
"Friend Wigg,—I just now received yours of this day, at a time when I am
surrounded with many misfortunes—and the greatest difficulties —having lost my wife
since I saw you, and am now hard put, to it in seeing after my family, having no person to
cook or provide anything but myself, so I now dwell wholly at the school; and yesterday
noon, in my absence, my younger son had the misfortune to scald his leg in a very
shocking manner, and I (being his only doctor and nurse) am so fully employed that I
have not a moment's respite, for I have pupils with me every night till eight. Yet, as I
respect you, I have applied to a gentleman now under my tuition to answer your
demand.—Yours, T. Sutton,"
In 1802 he was appointed the first Librarian to the Public Library, established in that
year. Subsequently he was appointed Surveyor to the Corporation, and for seven years he
was Secretary to the Philosophical Society, of which Mr. J. D. Downes of Gunton was
treasurer. If any anecdotes have been isolated of his frugality, honesty, and sturdy
independence, but he was "stiff in opinion," with more confidence than self command,
and his temper is said to have been uncontrollable. Notwithstanding
GREAT YARMOUTH
219
The house a little to the south of the pillar was originally intended
as a cottage for the residence of a man having the care of Nelson's Pillar,
but it has been allowed to grow into a pretentious public house. It was
long occupied by James Shannon, the appointed keeper of the
monument. Originally a lad employed at the Wrestlers’ Inn, he was in
1799 seized by a press gang and taken on board H. M. S. Weazel, Capt.
Durben; and after serving four years was wrecked off Cabaratta Point
near Gibraltar. He then joined the Victory under Capt. Hardy, and was
present at the battle of Trafalgar, where he assisted in carrying the dying
Nelson to the cockpit, He returned home in the Victory; but
subsequently served afloat until his discharge, when he was admitted
into Greenwich Hospital. Being still a hale man he found the
confinement irksome, and, through the recommendation of his old
commander, Sir Thomas Hardy, he was in 1817 appointed to the above
post. He is believed to be the original of Ham Pegotty in David
Copperfield, the incidents of the shipwreck as described by Dickens
being taken from the wreck of the Hammond brig in 1829 upon the
beach not far from Sharman's abode; on which occasion he greatly
distinguished himself by rescuing one of the crew at much personal risk,
when all the rest miserably perished.
Before reaching the Harbour's mouth there was formerly a large
and rude beacon, elevated on a frame, as may be seen on
Fleurens' Chart, from which the annexed engraving is
taken* Nothing demonstrates the advance of science
more than our light houses. Contrast this rude structure
with the present flashing light at Lowestoft Point.
The FORT at the Haven's mouth was erected in
1653, as appeared by a stone let into the north wall. In
1665 t
he cost of maintaining the fort was £200 a year. It
the res augusta domi he contrived to collect about six hundred volumes chiefly on
mathematical subjects. He was three times married; but left only one surviving child,
Richard Sutton, born in 1777, who in early life served in several ships of the royal navy,
and afterwards resided at No. 7, in Row No. 136, where he taught navigation, arithmetic,
book-keeping, and, according to his own account, innumerable other things.
* The towers of churches were formerly often used for the purpose of beacons.
Thomas Gray petitioned the Privy Council for a "watch light" to be placed on the
220
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
was at that time used as a place of confinement for prisoners of war ;
and it appears by the State Papers that in the above year "some Dutch,
captains" who were imprisoned there made their escape, "although they
had given, their parole” The Fort was afterwards repaired by Sir
Thomas Meadowe (see vol. i., p. 153), who "hoped to be governor of it,"
for he boasted "how much the King loved and honored him;" but it
appears that in 1683 a shed had been erected against it as high as the
Fort itself, ''whereby any one could come over into the Fort and surprise
it;" which, becoming known to government, Sir Thomas Medowe and
Mr. Nathaniel Symonds had to attend a meeting of the Privy Council, at
which the King personally presided; and it was then ordered that the Fort
be cleared of all obstructions for one hundred feet, "by which means,"
says the council minute, "his majesty's Fort will be secured and made
useful for the purpose for which it was intended." The Fort was then
enlarged and strengthened. During the political excitement of 1688 the
rabble broke into it, but were quickly expelled by Lieut.-General
Bellasis' Regiment of Royal Fusiliers then quartered in the town. Of the
two bastions, that to the south, becoming undermined, fell with a crash
in 1822; and in 1834 the whole building was taken down and the
materials sold.* The site however was retained by government; and
during the administration of Lord Palmerston a large extention of ground
was obtained with the intention of erecting a powerful Battery for the
protection of the Harbour and Roadstead. Within the proposed line of
defence stood an old public house, called Jacob's Boat, which was also
purchased by government and pulled down,
Colonel Blake was Governor of Yarmouth in the latter years of the
Commonwealth and at the Restoration. Sir William Denny then
petitioned to be continued "in his former government of the Town of
Great Yarmouth, and the Isles of Flegg and Lothingland." He urged
steeple of Winterton Church for the guidance of seamen. A remarkable optical delusion is
observable in approaching Winterton Church from the west, when the sun is full upon it.
Apparently a figure is seen from time to time at the belfry window of the tower flinging
its arms about as if in wild despair, and retiring only to re-appear.
* The iron gate which stood on the west side of the Fort is now in the possession of
Salmon Palmer, Esq. There is a view of this Fort in Preston's Picture of Yarmouth.
GREAT YARMOUTH
221
that his father, Sir William Denny of Norwich, served Charles I. as
counsellor-at-law,* and that he himself had laboured and suffered for
his loyalty. He adds that the town was in "much scism, with which the
county was extremely infested: and he hoped to do good service
"knowing the humour of the people," f He was not successful; for the
post was given to Col. Thomas Blagge, a faithful adherent of the royal
cause; but he did not live long to enjoy it, dying a few months
afterwards, in the 48th year of his age. J Mary, his widow,§ petitioned
* The latter married Frances, daughter of James Taverner Esq., and died in 1642.
The arms of Denny of Great Yarmouth, were gu ., a saltier arg., betw. twelve crosslets
pasté fitchy or. Papworth, p. 1071.
f State Papers. Having failed to obtain the governorship he, on the ground of having
"long served loyally for Church and State in Norfolk," petitioned for some waste ground
at Shoreditch. Families of the name of Denny have been of long continuance in Norfolk
and Suffolk.
t He was born, says Anthony à Wood, "of an anciente and gentile family in
Suffolke." One of his ancestors, Sir Thomas Blagge, narrowly escaped being burnt at the
stake for embracing the doctrines of the reformers. The Blagges were seated for many
generations at Little Horningsberth, inhabiting a hall there built by John Melford, Abbot
of Bury St. Edmund's, but now destroyed. They bore arg., two bends engrailed gu. There
is a pedigree of this family in Gage's Suffolk, Hingoe Hundred, p. 520. Dorothy, widow of
Sir George Blagge, married Sir Ambrose Jermyn of Rushbrooke in Suffolk, Colonel
Blagge was Groom of the Bedchamber to Charles I., and was among the first to take up
arms for his royal master. He fought at the battle of Newbury; and afterwards became
Governor of Wallingford Castle, which he long and gallantly defended. He accompanied
Charles II, in his flight from Worcester; and to him Charles entrusted his diamond George
Blagge was taken prisoner and committed to the Tower: but escaping thence had the
satisfaction of replacing the jewel in the king's own hands. Recalled from exile at the
restoration, he resumed his place of Groom of the Bedchamber, but had scarcely settled in
the expectation of spending the remainder of his days in peace and quietness, when he
was seized with a fatal disorder, which terminated his existence, and he was buried in
Westminster Abbey.
§ She was a daughter of Sir Roger North of Mildenhall in Suffolk, by Elizabeth his
wife, one of the daughters and co-heirs of Sir John. Gilbert, knt., of Great Finborough in
Suffolk, who built the old hall there now demolished, on an estate which had beon
granted to his ancestor, Henry Gilbert, by Queen Elizabeth. The youngest daughter of Sir
John Gilbert married Sir John Poley, knt., of Stowmarket. The arms of Gilbert were az., a
chev. eng. arm., betw. three eagles displayed. Those of North were az., a lion passant or.,
betw. three fleur-de-lis. Colonel Blagge, by the above marriage, left four daughters his
co-heirs, of whom Mary married Adam
222
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
Secretary Godolphin in 1666 to appoint John Snelling to be Lieutenant of
Yarmouth, under Lord Richardson, who was, she says, willing to have him,
"being a relation of Mr. Blagge, and having served under him at Wallingford".
In the next century Sir William Draper was governor; and Captain John
Arbuthnot in 1779.
Having now reached the last building to the south, let us retrace our steps
and consider the other Roads lying between the Town Wall and the Marine
Drive. When Yarmouth was a fortified place there was, as we have seen, an
open moat or ditch, which, commencing at the river Bure, outside the North-
west Tower, encircled the wall and found an outlet into the Yare westward of
the South Gate. Outside the North Gate, and as far east as King Henry's Tower,
the ditch remained until closed soon after the establishment of the Local Board
of Health. South of St. Peter's Road there was an open ditch, used as a common
sewer, which ran at some distance from the town wall, bordering the road now
called Blackfriars Road (in remembrance of the monastery already mentioned),
until it reached a point where Tower Road now makes a junction with Queen's
Road, and here it emptied its filth into a covered drain which discharged itself
into the river. This noxious ditch was one of the first evils remedied by the
Local Board of Health. Adjoining and outside this ditch was a large piece of
land, which had been enclosed, and was called "Bell's piece." This ground, was
afterwards planted and converted into public gardens called the Victoria
Gardens, having a spacious Bowling Green ; but large portions of these gardens
are now built over.
Of the roads running north and south, the principal one is Nelson Road,
which, commencing at the north-east corner of the Cemetery, is continued, in a
direct line until its intersection by St. George's Road, on
Colclough, of a family who bore arg. , five eagles displayed in saltier sa. Margaret,
another daughter, was that excellent Mrs. Godolphin, whose "saintly life" was so
touchingly written by Evelyn. She was "by her excellent and religious mother "
trained up in the fear of God, in the true faith of the Gospel, and in the practice of
"holiness from her earliest years," She became one of the Maids of Honour to the
Queen; and married Mr. Sidney Godolphin, third son of Sir Francis Godolphin of
Godolphin Manor in the Parish of Breage, Cornwall, Master of the Robes, and died in
1678 after childbirth, In the 26th year of her age, and was interred in the church at
Breage. The other daughters were Mrs. Boscowen and Mrs. Penn.
GREAT YARMOUTH
223
the south side of which it is again continued in an oblique direction
until, by rounding a corner at Duncan Place, it again gets into a straight
line and is continued until it forms a junction with the east end of
Queen's Road, The Nelson Column forms a central object in the vista
from Duncan Place. On the west side of Nelson Road, at its
commencement, is the Cemetery already mentioned. On the east side,
opposite the Cemetery, stood "Bancome's Mill," which was burnt in
1852. Further south, on the same side, is “Skinner's Mill.”*
Apsley Road commences near the east end of Regent Road, and run a
in a south direction, crosses Trafalgar Road towards its east end, and
terminates by junctions with St. George's Road and York Road.
A road commencing at St. Peter's Plain extends eastward until it
forms a junction with Apsley Road, and is called Rodney Road. On the
south side of this road a "Bethel" has recently been erected.
Wellington Road lends from St. Peter's Road to the Victoria Arch,
which marks the boundary of the estate of the Victoria Building
Company towards the north. This arch was erected by the company
from a, design by Brown.
At the south-west corner, where Nelson Road and St George's Road
intersect each other, a school for boys was established in 1812 upon the
Lancastrian system. The name was subsequently changed to that of the
B RITISH S CHOOL , by which it is now distinguished. The managers
profess to give an "unsectarian scriptural education."
Between St. Peter's Road and Victoria Road there is a piece of
ground, now covered with houses and comprising St. Peter's Terrace,
Leicester Terrace, and Seymour Place, which was formerly called Waterhouse
Yard. Here there was a pump and well from which, in the early part of
the present century, the ships of the royal navy in Yarmouth Roads
were "watered " from time to time.
Havelock Road extends southward from St Peter's Road until it
forms a junction with Queen's Road.
* In 1867 a man employed in this mill got entangled with the machinery and was
crushed to death.
t Died at his lodgings in Blenheim Place, Apsley Road, in 1866, Mr. Felix F
Collingwood, solicitor, aged 92.
224
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
South Denes Road commence at the South Gate, and is continued
past the Race Course until within a short distance of the Haven's mouth.
On the west side there is a wharf for steam ships trading with Hull and
Newcastle. Further south are shipbuilding yards, and a dry dock
excavated by the late Mr. Ambrose Palmer.*
At a very early period Yarmouth acquired a reputation for ship
building which continued down to the present century. It was customary
to erect stocks for this purpose on various parts of the Quay, the
corporation, as owners of' the soil, levying a tonnage duty. In the reign
of Henry III. the Yarmouth men built a very fair ship, which they
presented to the king's son, Prince Edward, but the men of Winchelsea
attacked the Yarmouth men, and says Pike in his Crime in England, vol.
i., p. 234, "smashed the pretty toy to splinters." In 1290 a marriage was
negotiated between the eldest son of Edward I. and the Lady Margaret,
daughter of the King of Norway, and orders were sent to Yarmouth to
build a ship in which to convey the royal lady to England. Rex fecit
praeparari navem pulcherriman. When completed, Sir Matthew de
Columbers, the king's butler, came to Yarmouth to take possession, and
store her with all things necessary for the voyage. f A master was
appointed at 6d. a day, and forty sailors at 3d. per day each, the boys
getting 2d. per day. A banner of the royal arms, and a streamer, "that
small but graceful symbol of loyalty, discipline, and power," were also
provided.
In 1635 the ship carpenters and caulkers formed a combination
very similar to a modern trade union, which was complained of by the
ship builders as a great grievance, "by reason that workmen and
caulkers were not permitted to come from other places as formerly;"
and ultimately a dissolution of the society was effected.
In 1665 the government determined to build a frigate at Yarmouth;
and the manner in which the business of the Admiralty was then con-
ducted is revealed to us in the correspondence of Capt. Francis
Saunders
* In 1749 Ambrose Palmer and Nathaniel Palmer, shipbuilders, had leave to occupy
a piece of the town's waste lying next the river; and to make a sawpit there.
f Among the stores laid in were sturgeons, lampreys, saffron bread, and ginger
bread. All these preparations wore unavailing, for the princess died before she could be
brought over,
GREAT YARMOUTH
225
who came down to superintend her construction, and to take the com-
mand of her when finished. A contract was entered into with Messrs.
Henry and Edmund Edgar.* The ship was to carry "36 close guns and 4
upper deck guns." She was to be called the Sweepstakes, and during her
construction, which occupied a considerable time, one hundred "stout
men" were collected ready "to be entered" as soon as the vessel was in
the water, f On the 9th of February, 1666, Capt. Saunders reported to
the Admiralty that the Sweepstakes was "completed, and that no just
complaint could be made against the builders," who were "humble
suitors for the payment of their bill." On the 5th of March these worthy
men wrote to the Navy Commissioners, stating that " they had not even
troubled the Board with letters during the "building of their new frigate,
but were then necessitated to do so, " being much damnified for want of
money, and put to their wit's end "by timber creditors." They also said
that it was usual to have £5 allowed on launching a frigate, and
requested the same gratuity. On the 12th of March Capt. Saunders
wrote to the Admiralty that the Edgars were in great straits, fearing if
they launched the ship without being paid they would be put in prison
by their creditors. At last the frigate was launched "with no greater
damage than the breaking of her rudder." Capt. Saunders reported that
"judicious men thought the Sweepstakes would prove a stout ship and
sail well." She was victualled at Yarmouth, and ordered to the gunfleet;
but she did not sail till the 23rd of May, great difficulties having arisen
about "cordage" and other things not in the contract. At the same time a
vessel taken as a prize, and named the Milkmaid, was fitted out as a
tender. State Papers. In 1857 as some labourers were deepening Mr.
Ambrose Palmer's dock, and had dug about three feet below the bottom
and about seventeen feet below the present surface of the adjoining
ground, they struck upon the remains of a wooden box, about eighteen
inches square and a
* They were recommended "by Sir James Johnson as having the most commodious
yard, and Yarmouth being as convenient a place as any in the kingdom " for ship
building." The price was £6 per ton. Admiralty Papers.
f Mr. Bowers of Yarmouth wrote to the Admiralty for the command of this
frigate; thinking probably there was "nothing like asking," Admiralty Papers.
226
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
foot deep, which was filled with piles of small silver coins of Edward I.
and Alexander III., the contemporary King of Scotland. As these coins
closely adhered, together, they had the appearance of metal bolts, but
upon being lifted up they speedily scattered, and as many as would fill a
peck measure were collected. The spot where they were found had been
within the stream, of the river before the Quay was formed, and no
doubt this money formed part of the treasure intended for the payment
of the king's forces in Scotland, and had been accidentally dropped
overboard, and subsequently a quay-head had been made over the spot.
The assistance rendered to the State by the Town of Great
Yarmouth in providing ships and men for the public service, especially
in the expeditions against Scotland, has already been, mentioned.
Adjoining and to the south of Mr. Ambrose Palmer's dock is an
open space long known as the B ALLAST Q UAY . Here in former times,
and at other parts of the Quay, the Dutch schuyts were accustomed to
assemble before the annual herring fishery. Ives in his Journal mentions
seeing thirty, forty, and sometimes sixty sail of Dutchmen coming up
the river to this Quay about the same time; and Dr. Aikin, writing in
1785, says "we have had a great deal of amusement here from the
annual visit of the Dutch fishermen. About fifty of their sckuyts came
up our river, and lay for three or four days at the Quay in an uniform
regular line. The town was filled with great breeches, and on Sunday all
the country flocked in to see the sight, so that the whole length of the
Quay was crowded. The gradual approach of the schuyts with their
yellow sails glittering in the sun, and their progress up the river in a
line, one after the other, were very striking "spectacles."* The Sunday
before Michaelmas day was called "Dutch Sunday;" when a kind of fair
was held. An eye witness, writing in 1785, describes the Dutchmen as
easily distinguished by their round caps, short jackets, capacious
breeches, and wooden shoes, f They might be seen on the Saturday
making their purchases. On the Sunday,
* Memoir of Dr. Aikin, vol. i., p. 103,
f At that time "sabots" were worn by all Dutch fishermen, but now they are
very rarely seen. They were generally formed of willow or elm: and the usual price
was: threepence per pair.
GREAT YARMOUTH
227
He says, all the country people round, as far as Norwich, flocked in to
see the Dutch, who on the occasion decorated, their vessels with flags
in the gayest manner; the whole length of the Quay being crowded
with, people of all ranks in their best apparel. At night the Butch went
about the streets bawling times, but there were no quarrels. On Monday
they laid in their provisions and put to sea. During their stay in
Yarmouth they carried on a considerable traffic in pipes, dried,
flounders, "Dutch toys," ginger bread, and "domino clumps;" the latter
being balls of crystallized white sugar, with apiece of lemon peel in the
centre. On the 15th of September, 1814, being "Dutch Sunday,'' and
peace having been proclaimed, a number of schuyts arrived, after an
interval of twenty years. The old custom was revived, and the scene
attracted a large assemblage of visitors from the neighbourhood. In
1832 thirty sail of Dutch fishing boats came up to the Ballast Quay,
since which time very few have entered the harbour.
On the south side of the Ballast Quay are the extensive warehouses
and buildings belonging to the Corporation of the Trinity House. An
octagonal look-out tower, rising to the height of seventy-five feet, was
erected in 1868. Here are kept the stores necessary for the several
floating lights stationed along the coast to mark the gat ways; and also
buoys to indicate navigable channels and point out shoals and wrecks.
The employment of stationary vessels bearing alight to mark the
dangers of a coast instead of a permanent erection, was invented, or at
any rate brought into use, by Robert Hamblin, who was originally a
barber at Lynn. The first was placed at the Nore in 1732, the second at
the Dudgeon in 1736. Those at the Newarp, Goodwin, and Lemon and
Ower followed. In late years great improvements have been made in the
construction of these vessels, and the means of mooring and lighting
them. In 1829 the Newarp light vessel was driven from her moorings in
a violent storm. On the Quay and in these warehouses may generally be
seen a number of buoys, brought in to be repaired or repainted.* They
were invented and began to be used, very sparingly, in the 17th century.
White used to be their colour, but now is only used on partly-
* In 1725 Nicholas Boult, Agent for the Trinity House, had a place assigned him
near the Ballast Quay in which to lay his buoys.
228
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
coloured buoys, a dark colour (either red or black) being found most,
distinguishable. Eight feet buoys are now commonly used; but at very
important points they measure twenty-four feet. The larboard or left
hand side of a channel is distinguished from the starboard or right hand
side by the buoy a being chequered or striped vertically with white, and
buoys to mark the middle of a channel are painted with horizontal white
stripes. The buoys which mark sunken wrecks are painted green. They
were formerly constructed, of wood, but iron has now the preference.
They are kept in their places by "sinkers" or anchors formed like a
mushroom inverted. They are inspected every three months, and
"shifted" every six months; that is, they are removed and replaced by
newly-painted buoys. For the purpose of warning vessels in fogs some
buoys are so constructed as to strike a bell whilst they undulate in the
water. One of this description was moored off this coast in 1869.
A site on the Ballast Quay has recently been granted by the Town
Council for the erection of a Smack-boys Home.
The Trinity warehouses are bounded towards the south by Selby
Road, on the south side of which are low warehouses long known as the
"Oil houses," because they were erected by a company formed to carry
on the whale fishery.*
W HALES have occasionally made their appearance on the Norfolk
coast in the vicinity of Yarmouth. In 1475 a certeyn fyshe cald a whale
came on shore on the North Beach, and was taken possession of by the
bailiffs. In 1582 the sea brought a special gift in the shape of an
enormous whale, which grounded on Caister Beach. Anthony Wood
informs us that in 1677 the following verses "did go about in writing:"—
The Having comet, and the monstrous whale
The breaking of the shins of Lauderdale ;
The Parliament at the eclipse being called,
And Osborne's George fell off before installed.
With others not to be repeated. The "monstrous whale" is explained
* In 1795 an Italian gentleman, named Cantua, was discovered in the boiling
house with his throat cut. A letter was found, upon him, addressed to Mr.
Warmington, asking for a passage to Cuxhaven.
GREAT YARMOUTH
229
as one taken at Yarmouth.* In 1749 some fishermen caught a grampus
in their nets, which was twenty-seven feet long, and weighed 4,000 lbs.
On the 8th of July, 1784, a small whale ( Balaena mysticetus) was taken
near Yarmouth. f In 1816 a large specimen of the Delphinus Bidens, or
bottled-nosed whale, was caught in a herring net. t A smaller specimen
had been caught about twenty years previously; and specimens of the
Balaena physalis, or fin-backed whale, have been occasionally taken in
the herring nets. They are supposed to have been attracted by the shoals
of herrings off the coast. In 1845 a specimen of the Lagenorgynchus
alibirostris (white-beaked bottle-nose) was captured off Yarmouth; the
skull of which is in the Norwich Museum. In 1857 a whale was stranded
on Winterton Beach, which measured forty-five feet in length. The skull
is preserved in the Museum of the College of Surgeons. §
The W HALE F ISHERY attracted the enterprise of Yarmouth men
early in the 17th century, when one Thomas Hoarth fitted out some
ships for the purpose. In 1627 the ''Fellowship of English Merchants''
complained to the Privy Council that Nathaniel Wright, previously one
of their directors, had joined Thomas Hoarth, and had drawn away one
Sampson, their chief harpooner, and were fitting out ships at Yarmouth
for the whale fishery; and prayed that the ships might be
t When John Bright was appointed President of the Board of Trade in 1868, a
petition was made to him that he should devote a sum of money for the extirpation of
bottle-nosed whales! to which he did not accede.
§ It was claimed by the Lord of the Manor and also by the Board of Trade on behalf
of the Crown, but the stench it occasioned soon induced the disputants to get rid of it as
quickly as possible. A similar event took place in 1342, when the Abbot of Holme, as
lord of the fee, brought an action against several persons for taking possession of a whale
stranded at Winterton. The whale was a royal fish, the king being entitled to the head and
the queen to the tail, for the purpose of furnishing her wardrobe with whale-bone,
* The other allusions are to the duke's having stumbled and broke his shins, the
Parliament having been called to assemble on a day when there was an eclipse, and to the
George of the Order of the Garter having accidentally fallen from the neck of the Lord
Treasurer Osborne, afterwards Earl of Danby.
f Professor Newton suggests that this whale may have been a specimen of the
Baloena Biscayensis, a small species closely allied to the Baloena mysticetus (the right
whale), which formerly inhabited the Bay of Biscay, but has now become exceedingly
rare.
230
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
stayed. An order in council was made prohibiting such ships going to
any country within the Muscovite Company's patent, and the former
servants of the company were compelled to give bail not to engage in
any such fishing.* Subsequently Sir Thomas Glenham presented a
petition to Lord Dorchester on behalf of Hoarth, who complained of
having lost £2,000 by being stayed, but the privileges of the company
were maintained. In 1663 an order in council was made "to stay a ship
setting forth to Greenland," but this was for fear of her being captured
by the enemy. In the beginning of the next century, a bounty having
been granted by Parliament, the whale fishery was prosecuted from
Yarmouth on a larger scale. In 1746 the Elizabeth and Mary, Adamson
master, arriving from Greenland with four whales, reported that when
amidst the ice she had encountered a violent storm which lasted forty-
eight hours, and caused the destruction of thirty Dutch and three English
whalers. In 1753 Mr. John Cotman and his friends agreed to fit out a
ship for the Greenland fishery. The cost was estimated at £2,500,
divided into fifty shares of £50 each. The ship, cargo, and stores to be
sold on her return to the highest bidder; and if successful a new
adventure to be undertaken. In 1758 the Three Brothers of Yarmouth,
returning with one whale, was captured by the French. In the previous
year a Yarmouth Greenlander, the Prince William, Mitchel master,
assisted by the Hope of London, captured a French privateer with forty-
seven men and three "ransomers" on board, and carried her into Shields.
In 1764 seven Yarmouth ships were employed in the Greenland fishery,
and brought home seven whales. In 1788 some of the then principal
merchants in Yarmouth, namely, Edmund Lacon, William Danby
Palmer, Nathaniel Palmer, James Symonds, Jeremiah Ives, John
Preston, William Steward, and Thomas Pitt, formed themselves into a
company for the more vigorous prosecution of the whale fishery; in
which enterprise they were encouraged by the legislature, for, under
conditions made in pursuance of the 26 and 28 George III., if five
vessels sailing from Yarmouth to Greenland returned within
* The first English ships engaged in the whale fishery were sent out by the "Russian
Company," as it was called, in 1611; and in 1636 Charles I. confirmed to that company
the exclusive right of the Greenland fishery.
GREAT YARMOUTH
231
fourteen months and produced a certain quantity of oil, the owners were
entitled, to a bounty.* In 1801 twenty ships were employed, in this
fishery, and returned from Greenland with, rich cargoes, but heavy
losses subsequently occurred, and early in the present century the whale
fishery from Yarmouth was abandoned. f
Further south are the G AS W ORKS , which were commenced upon a
small scale in 1824; and for many years met with but little
encouragement. t They were projected by Mr. George Stolworthy
Palmer; and were afterwards carried on by a Joint Stock Company.§
There were no public lamps in Yarmouth until after the commencement
of the 18 th century. In 1720 the Inhabitants being "desirous of having
the open" spaces and streets enlightened in the dark nights of the winter
season "for their common benefit," hit upon the ingenious plan of
providing for the expense out of a fund to be raised by Act of
Parliament, for "finishing and adorning the new chapel, called St.
George's Chapel," by a duty or imposition on coals, culm, and cinders
landed and consumed in the town. Upon the passing of this Act a
committee was appointed "to take a survey of the town, for the purpose
of fixing upon some convenient places in the streets for erecting lights."
In 1752 another committee was formed, with power "to put up lamps in
such number and in such places as they should think fit" within the
walls; beyond which no public lamps were allowed for the next three
quarters of a century.  ¶ The cost of the public lamps now amounts to
* To obtain payment of this "bounty", which had bean refused on some pretence in
1794, Sir Edmund Lacon brought an action, and obtained a verdict in his favor. Lord
Erskine, then at the bar, was counsel for the plaintiff.
f Formerly it was the practice to set up the "jawbones" .
of whales in different parts of the town as ornaments or
trophies, but they have now all disappeared 1 . Southey, in
a letter to his wife written from Yarmouth in 1798,
mentions this peculiarity, and adds, "they trade much with
Greenland."
t The ground upon which these works were commenced had been previously leased by the
corporation to Mr. David Tolmé.
§ Gas was first introduced Into London in 1813, and met with much opposition; into
Norwich in 1820; Edinburgh and Dublin in 1826.
Norwich was first " enlightened" in 1701: and it was not until 1736 that an Act
was passed to erect posts in London for oil lamps.
1 See RRH, Hopton Hall, re whalebone arch.
232
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
£1,200 a year. In 1863 the Yarmouth Gas Company obtained an Act of
Parliament; and they then purchased of the corporation additional
ground on the east side of South Gate Road at a cost of £4,105, awarded
by Mr. Rodwell, Q.C., to whom the question of price had been referred;
and upon the ground so acquired two large gas holders have been
erected.
Adjoining the Gas Works, and next the river, are the premises of
Messrs. Beeching, where the Northumberland prize lifeboat, mentioned
ante p. 122, was built. Yarmouth-built yawls have acquired great repute
for swiftness combined with safety. Stanley, the discoverer of
Livingstone, took one out with him on his subsequent exploring
expedition, She ascended the Rufiji river as far as Kisa, and outstripped
every thing under sail or with paddles. She was built on Mack's yard,
and was called the Wave.
Beyond and to the South of the Gas Works is the F ISH W HARF ,
erected by the Town Council under the authority of a special Act of
Parliament, and opened for business in 1867. These extensive buildings
were constructed .for the purpose of affording greater facilities for the
landing, stowage, and sale of fish; and of abating the nuisance, which
had arisen by the use of the South Quay for that purpose. The length of
the wharf is 2,251 feet, being nearly as long as the South Quay. The
shed is in length 750 feet. The total cost, including salt stores,
refreshment rooms, and other buildings was £26,197. This great public
improvement was not effected without a most strenuous opposition; but
its utility is now very generally admitted. The trade is conducted, more
especially as regards the buying and selling of herrings, in a much more
convenient and methodical manner; whilst a considerable quantity of
waste and unproductive land has become valuable for building and
trade purposes.
Mr. J.G . Nall, in his Handbook, has given such an exhaustive
history of the Yarmouth fisheries that it is unnecessary to dilate upon
them here; and Mr. Benjamin T. Lowne, M.R.C.S., grandson of Mr.
Lowne who for many years resided in the Old Broad Row, published in
1863 A popular Natural History of Great Yarmouth and its
Neighbourhood, including a Description of the District, its Geology ,
Flora, and Fauna; in which an account of the fisheries will be found; a
few additional particulars only will be given here.
GREAT YARMOUTH
233
The H ERRING has been called the "king of the sea." It is related that
once upon a time all the inhabitants of the deep gathered together to
choose a king. The fluke occupied too much time in, putting on the red
spots by which he is distinguished, and did not arrive at the meeting
until after the election, for when he came the herring had been made
king; so the fluke curled his mouth on one side and said, " a simple fish
like the herring king of the sea!" and his mouth has been on one side
ever since. The plentifulness of the herring made it an easy medium of
payment when money was scarce. Thus an oblation of this fish was
made to the Minister of the Parish, called Christ's half dole; a certain
quantity was annually allowed to the chief magistrate; and a
considerable proportion went towards the discharge of municipal
expenses; all which payments were in time commuted for money.*
Large quantities of fish were sent from Yarmouth, to London at a very
early period; and by a royal ordinance of Henry III., the first boat in the
season with fresh herrings from Yarmouth had to pay double customs,
so as to confiscate it to the use of the king's own table, Timbs' London,
p. 90. In the British Museum are a file of writs and acquittances
subsiduary to the accounts of the Bailiffs of Great Yarmouth, relating to
the supply of herrings for the king's household in the reign of Edward I.
In 1382 the price of Yarmouth herrings in the City of London was fixed
at six for a penny, and none were to be taken out of the city for sale by
retail; "but," says the ordinance, "let every lord and other person buy
what he needs for his own store." Riley's London.
When Edward III. was making preparations for the re-invasion of
France, he sent an order to Yarmouth for five lasts of red herrings
(Rymer ii., p. 1101). It will be remembered that the engagement before
Orleans, in which Sir John Fastolfe, K.G., greatly distinguished
himself, was called "The Battle of Herrings," because that knight with a
very inferior force cut off and destroyed a detachment of 3,000 men
bearing supplies to the besieged city. The herring constituted a
* The Abbot of St. Bennett at Holme in 1240 agreed to pay 1,000 herrings
yearly in Lent to the Provost of Carrow for certain rights of fishing at Wroxham.
It appears from the Pell Rolls that in 1241 " the men of Yarmouth" received from
the Crown £30, " in part payment for herrings purchased to distribute in alms."
234
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
principal article of food in all monasteries.* The red herring before the
reformation was in great request dining Lent; and benevolent persons
bequeathed supplies of this commodity to the poor. f Numerous
receipts for cooking the herring have been given by Nall, but
" There never was a herring spake but one,
And he said, toast my back and not my bone ;"
meaning that the herring should be split open and laid on its back for
cooking. t
In 1568 a body of Huguenots, escaping from Flanders, established
themselves at Yarmouth, and with the queen's licence carried on the
business of fishing with great success; introducing many improvements
in catching and curing. (Smiles, vol. i., p. 122.)§
* The Abbot and Monks of Ely were entitled to an annual contribution of £ 24,000
herrings from the men of Dunwich. Paul, the fourteenth Abbot of St. Alban's, after he had
rebuilt the offices of the abbey, made many regulations as to the diet of the monks;
restraining them from an immoderate use of flesh, and causing them to live principally on
pickled herrings, called by the Normans Harenpie. Newcome's History, p. 49. The Abbot
of Bury St. Edmund's had the privilege of purchasing herrings at one halfpenny less per
hundred than other buyers. In monasteries a provision of red herrings was always stored
for winter consumption. Ralph de Nevill, Dean of Lichfield and Lord Chancellor in 1227,
writing to Jeffery Savage, expresses his anxiety that there should be a sufficient supply;
and tells him to be "mindful of the herrings which the Prior of Norwich had given the
writer, namely 5,000." At the feast given in the Great Hall at Canterbury in 1396 to
celebrate the Inthroneation of Archbishop Arundel, there were fourteen barrels of white
herrings at 8s. the barrel, and twenty casks of red herrings at 4s. 6d. per cask.
f Thomas Trumpe, by his will made in 1528, provided for a dole of one pennyworth,
of bread, and one penny-worth of herring to be given to every householder in the Parish
of Whissonsett in Norfolk annually on Pulver Wednesday (Ash Wednesday). In 1534
William Smith of Exning near Newmarket, gave to the poor, six cades of herrings to be
distributed in six Lents.
t Mr. Plimsoll, M.P., in his Our Seamen, p. 79, says, speaking from experience of a
workman's life in London, "I had plenty of good wheat bread to eat all the week, and the
half of a herring for a relish—less will do if you can't afford half, for it is a splendid fish."
§ The export of red herrings from. Yarmouth to Roman Catholic countries
(especially as a provision for Lent) has always been extensive, and although the fishing
merchants since the reformation have usually been staunch Protestants, they did not
object to drink as a toast,—
" The health of the Pope—and his triple crown;
" May the price of red herrings never come down."
GREAT YARMOUTH
235
In 1641 Simon Smith, " Agent, for the Royal Fishing," published a
book entitled " The Herring Busse Trade: expressed in sundry
particulars, "both for the building of busses, malting of deep-sea, nets,
also the curing of the "herring for foreign vent." It is in quarto, and, is
stated in Fennell's Catalogue of Books as being "rare." The book is
dedicated to King Charles. It contains minute directions "for the
building of a herring busse," the charge of the same, and of the nets
"which, the said busse doth use at the setting out, the consumptive
charge in the two moneths fishing,"—the times and places of the
herring fishings, wherein he says about the beginning of September
they (the herrings) come into the Yarmouth seas, where they continue
until the middle of November, and from thence fall to the southward."
Speaking of the "several sorts of herrings and times of packing them,"
he says "the corved " herrings, which are to make red herrings, are those
which are taken in the Yarmouth seas, provided that they can be carried
on shore within two or three days after they be taken; otherwise they
must be pickled—the corved herrings are never gipped, &c," Then
follow observations on the fishing at sea—the disposal of the men and
youths in the laying out of their nets and hauling them in again—the
employment of the men in their offices when the nets are to be hauled
up—the employment of the fishermen and mariners whilst they be in
harbour, and till they come to their fishings outward bound—and
homeward bound—what each gipper must have—the "plantation for a
fishing, where and how"—the provisions to be made aforehand for
furnishing the magazine—with "sundrie considerable things offered
unto the magistrate."
We have already mentioned the pamphlet of Tobias Gentleman
(vol. i., p. 118), who settled in Yarmouth as a fishing merchant, in
1633, purchasing his freedom for £13. 6s. 8d. In that year the
corporation, utterly regardless of "woman's rights," made an order to
prevent women from buying and selling herrings. In 1752 J. Dodd
published "An Essay towards a Natural History of the Herring," which
gives curious particulars of the modes of catching and curing that fish.
In 1642 there was a deficient catch of fish all along the east coast,
"to the hurt and hunger of the poor and beggaring of the fishermen."
1 Corved- thought to be from the Dutch word korfharinck; meaning
herring packed in baskets.
236
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
It was reported that when any fish, were taken there came "ane beast
called the seaclog which ate and destroy'd the haill bodies and left
nothing but the luiads." " A judgment surely from Almighty God,"
quoth honest old Spalding, the Town Clerk of Aberdeen; but his sea-
dogs were probably none other than the dog fish, one of the
cartilaginous family which, without any special intervention of
providence, continued to be the enemy of our fishermen down to a late
period.* They pursue the herring shoals in considerable numbers,
making inroads upon them, and wounding ten times as many as they
devour; leaving the disabled herrings to the tender mercies of the
seabirds, who quickly pounce upon their prey, f Why herrings should be
abundant one year and comparatively scarce in another has never been
satisfactorily accounted for. In 1666 there was a good fishing. Thomas
Cory of Norwich, writing to Secretary Williamson, says "twelve
herrings for one penny fill many a hungry belly here." In 1374 the
Scottish Meteorological Society appointed a committee to discover, if
possible, on what (and whether any) meteorological influences a good
or bad herring fishery may depend. Some think that a bad season means
a cold season; others, that storms and not temperature keep away the
herrings, but at present little or nothing is known on the subject.
The first Bishop of Columbia (Dr. Hills) would find something in
the new world to remind him of his last cure of souls in the old. Shoals
of herrings annually surround the Island of Vancouver and the adjacent
main in the month of April, and are captured in large quantities by the
natives, who have their own methods of curing them.
* The curious leathery pouches, "which are often seen scattered on the seashore, and
vulgarly known, as "Devils purses," are the dried coverings of the young of the dog fish,
quadrangular in shape, with a long- thread at each extremity.
f The dog fish, was accustomed to follow the fishing boat when driving with her
nets down in great numbers, swimming round, almost touching the vessel, and were not to
be scared away. They seized the herrings which were driven into and caught by the nets,
pulling, them out or biting them in halves, so that when the nets were drawn tip the latter
were frequently found to be filled with half-devoured fish, and the nets themselves
frequently torn, in the efforts of the dogs to get the herrings out of them. Dogfish do not
spawn, but cast their young; and it is supposed that this operation is interfered with by the
trawl nets which destroy the young fish and disturb the old ones. However this may be,
certain it is that the dogfish 1 has almost entirely disappeared, to the great relief of
fishermen.
1 Dogfish is not common, a small species of shark in reality, sold as “Rock Salmon”
in fish and chip shops nowadays (2008).
GREAT YARMOUTH
237
The herring season at Yarmouth lasts from the beginning of
September to near the end of December. Shotten herrings are those
which have spawned, and are consequently, poor and thin and of little
worth. They then leave our coast, probably in search of strengthening
food.* The quantity of herrings delivered at the Fish Wharf since its
erection has been very great. f By a Parliamentary return made up to the
31st December, 1869, it appears that there were then 900 fishing boats
belonging to Yarmouth, measuring 14,788 tons, and employing 4,051
men and 531 boys. In 1873 the herrings landed at the Fish Wharf
amounted to nearly 19,000 lasts.
During the 16th and 17th centuries a large fishery was carried on in
the North Sea for cod and ling.§ This was called the "Iceland trade,"
and preceded the fisheries on the coast of Newfoundland, and in it
about 200 sail of Yarmouth vessels were annually employed. When
salted a proportion of the catch had to be supplied for the use of the
king's household, and for victualling the royal navy, under the laws of
purveyance then in force. The last "composition for fish" at Yarmouth
was made in 1613, and provides for the supply of 1,500
* See vol. ii., p. 321; some remarks upon the term in Notes and Queries for March,
1874, p. 194.
f The number of lasts landed in 1869 was 18,000. In each last there are 13,200 fish.
In 1870 the Ocean Wave, belonging to Meagre. Smith and Son, brought in at one time 29
lasts, being the largest catch brought in by one boat at one time ever known. The herrings
in that season were unusually fine, some of them measuring from 14 to 18 inches. In 1871
the number of lasts landed at the Fish Wharf alone was 19,781 (being 4,270 lasts more
than in 1868), weighing 39,662 tons.
j Raskin has informed the public that his maternal grandfather was engaged in the
herring trade of Yarmouth. This man, whose name he does not mention, went to sea, and
was killed when thirty-two years of age "by trying to ride instead of walk, and got his
limb crushed against a wall,"
§ Ling, the lota molva of cuvier, is a species of cod taken in large quantities in the
Orkneys and on the Yorkshire coast. It used to be split from head to tail, cleansed, salted
in brine, washed and dried; and in this state exported. The air bladders, both of cod and
ling, popularly called sounds, are prepared separately, and large quantities used to be
brought to Yarmouth by the Yorkshire fishermen. The oil of the ling, as in the cod, is
extracted from the liver, and is very beneficial in pulmonary complaints and in cases of
debility. It is also used for rheumatism. The hake 1 , which salted is called "Poor John," is
of the same family of fish, and has an extensive range in the seas of the north of Europe.
1 Hake (Oslič) is popular, with trout also, in Croatia today (2008).
238
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
good and service able cod, well conditioned and dried," and for sixty
barrels of white herrings "of the best brand," and ten "cades of full red
herrings of one night's death," at fixed prices. The North-sea fishery for
cod and fiat fish is now very extensive, but conducted on totally
different principles; the catch being sent to London by swift steamers,
or landed at Yarmouth and conveyed with all dispatch to London by
rail, where it is sold as fresh fish; and salted cod, or haberdine as it was
called, is unknown. In 1557 this trade was much harassed by the Scots,
who were assisted by an abundance of privateers fitted out by France.
To quiet the apprehensions of the merchants. Sir John Clere of
Ormesby was sent to sea with a fleet of twelve sail, but in attempting to
land on the Scotch coast his men were attacked and routed, and the boat
in which he fled was upset and he himself drowned.
Tobias Gentleman, writing in 1614, says that in his father's time
his majesty's "sergeant-cater" was entitled to take gratis every year out
of every ship and bark one hundred of the choicest and fairest lings,
then worth more than £10 per hundred, and this was called
"composition fish."* It was essentially necessary that the king should be
constantly supplied with an abundance of provisions, and that they
should be had at a uniform and moderate price, for the hospitality
maintained at the royal table, before the Commonwealth, was profuse.
In the reign of Charles I., before the civil strife began, eighty-six tables
were daily furnished by his majesty at each meal, comprising altogether
five hundred dishes, with bread, beer, wine, and all other necessaries
according to the degree of the guests, the king's table being provided
with twenty-eight dishes, while the lowest had but two. To make
provision for such consumption, the royal purveyors could by legal
summons procure whatever they required from the several counties at a
moderate price.
Roger Coke, in his Delection of the Court and State of England,
published in 1694, after complaining of the Act of Navigation, says "I
find that before the Act, Great Yarmouth supplied St. Valery,
* Presents of ling were frequently made. In 1560 the corporation presented Sir
"Wm. "Woodhouse of Waxham with 5c. ling and 100 codds, for his gentleness to this
town showed, and to be shewed!"
GREAT YARMOUTH
239
"Deep, Roan, St. Malor, and other ports in France, with about 150,000
ling and haberdine; for which they made returns of sails, cordage, and
nets for their fisheries; but of late they sent none thither."
Large quantities of cod caught in the North Sea and brought into
Yarmouth are forwarded to London. The "long-shore cod" is much
inferior to that caught on the Dogger Bank. The salmon seldom visits
the Yare, but in 1820 one three feet in length and nine inches in breadth
leaped into a boat nearly opposite the present fish Wharf, and was
captured. In 1816 a salmon trout, weighing 21 lbs., was caught in the
river at Trowse; and in 1868 a salmon was caught as far up the river as
Burgh Castle, and two were caught in the river in 1871; and in 1872 a
salmon of 12 lbs. was taken in the sea off Caister. A specimen of the
Phoea vitulina or common seal, weighing 14 stone, was killed on the
beach in 1822. Formerly they frequently found their way up the river,
for Sir Thomas Browne states that they were "often taken
* Many things have been found in the maw of the cod fish; but nothing so curious as
the book, a religious treatise by Firth (who was burnt at the stake for his adherence to the
reformed faith), which in 1626 was taken from the belly of a codfish caught off Lynn, and
exposed for sale in Cambridge market. It is marvellous in what curious places lost things
are sometimes found. Take the following well-authenticated stories. In 1765 a pike was
caught in the river Ouse, weighing 28 lbs., which was sold to a gentleman in Littleport for
a guinea. "When the cook was gutting the fish she found a watch, with a black ribbon and
two seals, which it was ascertained had belonged to a gentleman's servant who had been
drowned about six weeks previously on his way to Cambridge. A wealthy German farmer
living near Nordanhamn employed himself one day in 1871 in making flour balls for
cattle; and when he had finished his work, found his hand was without the ring bearing his
wife's name, given to him on his marriage, it being the custom in Germany for bride and
bridegroom to exchange rings. Having shortly afterwards sold seven bullocks, the
purchaser shipped them to England by the Adler steamer on the 26th of October. Two
days afterwards one of the bullocks being apparently extremely ill and in a dying state
was thrown overboard; and on that day the smack Mary Anne of Colchester picked up at
sea the still warm carcase of the bullock, which the crew opened to obtain fat for greasing
the rigging. Inside the animal they found a gold ring, inscribed with a woman's name and
the date 1869. The master reported the occurrence and sent the ring to London; and it
being made known by the Shippinq Gazette, the news reached Nordanhamn, and the name
being recognised the farmer recovered the ring which he and his wife had considered lost
for ever. For stories of lost rings see that of the widow of Claverhouse; the ring restored to
Sir Peter Threipland of Fingask, the legend of Kentigern, in Acta Santorum i., p. 320 ; and
Brand's Newcastle i., p. 45.
240
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
sleeping on the shore near Surlingham." In the following year a
grampus (Delphinus vica), weighing 4 cwt., and being 11 feet long; was
found alive on the beach. Occasionally in Yarmouth Roads—
" A troop of porpoises their course explore :
" In curling wreathes they gambol on the tide,
"Now bound aloft, now down the "billow glide"
They are locally called herring-hogs, from their habit of following
shoals of herrings; and the appearance of their round backs above the
sea in fine weather being suggestive of pigs. The porpoise was formerly
esteemed a delicacy, and when one was captured it was claimed by the
bailiffs, who usually presented it to some great man. In 1823 a dead
specimen was cast on the beach, which admeasured 7 feet in length, and
weighed 4 cwt.* In 1872 a young shark, about 6 feet long, was caught
off Yarmouth and lauded on the beach, Sturgeons are occasionally
caught off Yarmouth. In 1871 an enormous specimen was captured. It
was 7 feet 10 inches long, and weighed 28 stone. Another caught near
the Scroby Sand in the following year measured 10 feet in length, and
weighed 224 lbs. Several were caught by Yarmouth fishing vessels in
1874, one of which weighed nearly 300 lbs. A small specimen of the
hippogampus or seahorse was brought up in a fisherman's net in 1861.
It was about an inch and a half long (the usual length being five or six
inches); the body is compressed laterally and incased in prominent,
bony, rib-like scales. The bead bears some resemblance to that of a
horse, the filament on the back of the neck resembling a mane, and the
dorsal fin not being unlike a saddle in shape.
* Of all the blubber dainties the porpoise was deemed the most savory. The Saxons
called it sea swine, and the ecclesiastics of the middle ages Toreo Marino. Porpoises were
purchased for the table of Henry III, in 1246; and Bishop Swinfield in the same century
dined off it whenever he had an opportunity. It was served up at a sumptuous
entertainment given to Richard II, at Durham House; and at the grand installation of
Archbishop Neville in 1466, four porpoises were on the table. It was present at the
marriage feast of Henry V., and at the coronation dinner of Henry VII. It was carved
"after the manner of venison," and eaten with mustard. It was found on the table of Henry
VIII. and of Wolsey. Somerset and other great lords feasted on one in 1509, which cost
8s. The porpoise was sometimes part of the Friday dinner of Queen Elizabeth; and it was
sold as food in the market of Newcastle as late as the year 1575, after which period it fell
into disrepute. See Liberate Rolls, Paston Letters, Add. M.S.S., Brand's Newcastle, and
Marl. M.S.S., No. 297.
GREAT YARMOUTH
241
In 1819 a specimen of the Cycloptorus lumpus, or lumpsucker, was taken in the
river; and another was captured in the roads in 1859. Specimens of the
Cyclopterus liparis, or unctuous sucker, have occasionally been taken in the
river. A sword fish was caught off Yarmouth in 1839. A short sun fish
(Orthagoriscus mola) was taken in the nets of a herring lugger in 1860.* In
1873 a halibut was caught which weighed upwards of 7 stone, and measured 5
feet 4 inches in length, 2 feet 6 inches in width, and 9 inches in thickness; and in
the same year was caught a turbot 36 inches in length, 30 inches in width, 4
inches in thickness, and 30 lbs. in weight. In 1808 a silver eel was caught a mile
below bridge, measuring 6 feet 1 inch in length, 21 inches in girth, and
weighing 42 lbs. Sharks are rare on this coast. In 1806 a shark was caught and
brought in, 9 feet in length, and weighing 3 cwt. In 1860 a bottle-nosed shark
got entangled in some herring nets and was captured. It measured 8 feet in
length, and weighed about 6 cwt. A specimen of that very curious fish the
hammer-headed shark (Squalus zygoena) was caught off Yarmouth in 1829, the
head of which is in the Norwich Museum, It is in the shape of a hammer, and
was engraved by Yarrell. j Conger eels have occasionally been taken of
enormous size. One caught on Breydon in 1870 measured 4 feet 10 inches in
length, and weighed 30 lbs. Smelts 1 are caught on Breydon and near the
Harbour's mouth. In 1873 a smelt was taken which measured eleven inches and
a half in length, and weighed over 7 oz. Ten inches, according to Couch's
British Fishes, is considered a very large size. The most remarkable river fish is
the ruffin t which is said to be peculiar to the Yare. It resembles the perch, but
has a line
* This fish, so willed from its circular form and shining surface, is occasionally
found on the shores of the United Kingdom, although when observed in our seas it is
usually dead or in a dying state. Another species, from its shape, is called the oblong sun
fish. They are supposed to keep usually at the bottom of the sea, and to feed on seaweed.
It is called the Diodon by the French, from the, peculiarity of the mouth. Another
specimen was caught on this coast in November, 1841.
f With the exception of one taken at Ilfracombe in 1865, there is no other instance
recorded on the English coast. Angel sharks have occasionally been taken off Yarmouth;
as also the blue, the porbeagle, and the basking shark.
t Spencer mentions the ruffin in his Faerie Queen, where he introduces the Yare
as attending the marriage of the Thames and Medway. Lib. 4, canto. XI.
1 See RRH, Vol ii, Lime Kiln Walk , re smelts and eel fishing.
242
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
drawn along the back; and the tail and fins are spotted with, black. In
1869 there was brought on shore a specimen of the Zithoiles Arctica, or
Arctic crab; which was forwarded to Mr. Buckland. A pike, 15 inches
long, was in 1873 caught in the river between the lower ferry and the
harbour's mouth. No other instance is known here of a fresh-water fish
being caught in salt water. Some person engaged in long-line fishing
from Gorleston Pier in 1873 drew up a whiting, to which was attached a
lamprey, which had just seized the whiting by the head preparatory to
swallowing the dainty morsel. In July 1873, two specimens of the crab
(Limulus Longa Spina) were brought in by a fishing smack. The Malays
use the long spines of these crabs as tips to their lances and arrows.
Shrimps, the least but most delicious of all shell-fish, abound at
Yarmouth, and are caught in large quantities during the summer
months, giving employment to many industrious men.*
Beyond the Fish Wharf a piece of ground has been set apart for a
new Ballast Quay; and here there is a boat-house for the use of the
inmates of the Naval Hospital,
The D ENES , both north and south, have been in more barbarous
times the scene of many a deed of violence and blood. In 1750 a young
man, named Robert Bullen, the son of a farmer at Thrandeston in
Suffolk, observing some sailors in a boat going down the river, desired
to be taken on board. They landed near the Fort, over which Barchard,
one of the sailors, took the countryman, and, in return for his civility,
the latter regaled Barchard with liquor at the neighbouring public house.
When the young man paid the reckoning, the sailor perceived that he
was in possession of gold and silver, and immediately conceived the
diabolical thought of murdering him. On returning by the seaside,
Barchard endeavoured to shove his victim into the sea, but the young
man made a vigorous resistance; whereupon the sailor becoming
exasperated knocked his victim down and then dispatched him with a
knife, with which he inflicted many wounds. He then possessed himself
of the money and left the body on the sand. It was not discovered until
the
* Those men venture out in very small and frail boats, and if caught in bad
weather, fatal accidents sometimes occur. In 1874 a "shrimp boat" endeavouring to
make the harbour, with one man only in her, was overwhelmed by the sea, and the
"shrimper," named Marshall, was drowned.
GREAT YARMOUTH
243
following morning, when it was found by a groom exercising his master's
horse. Inquiry was made, and suspicion falling on Barchard, he was
apprehended, and after a few hours confinement confessed his crime. In
the previous year Mrs. Meen was robbed on the Denes by John Sullivan,
who, in accordance with the severe laws then in force, was hanged for
the offence. Gipsies, or Egyptians as they were called, frequently
encamped on the North Denes; especially after the repeal of the Act by
which they were proscribed.* In 1860 a heavy gale of wind dispersed
large quantities of sand which had formed hillocks on the North Denes;
and a man engaged in collecting stones for building purposes, found a
decayed leather bag containing seventy silver groats of Henry VIII. It
had probably been washed from some wreck, and had remained buried
in the sand for three centuries. Freemen had the right of pasturage on
the Denes; and a town bull was kept at the expense of the corporation.
This unruly animal in 1716 gored a horse belonging to Samuel Ellis;
and the corporation paid him its value, which was £3. 10 s.
Yarmouth Denes was often the scene of pugilistic contests. In
1726 Andrew Reed fought "the famous Sutton from London, giving
him several cuts without receiving any;" and in 1756 a battle was
fought "between the noted Mr. Goodey and Mr. Barlow for a
considerable wager." Norwich Gazette; and see vol, i., p. 89.
Manship informs us that the Denes is of "competency sufficient to
darraign f a battle," and it certainly is an admirable place for holding a
review of troops. In 1793 the East Yorkshire Regiment of Militia, then
in camp at Caister, and the Leicestershire and West Middlesex
Regiments, then encamped at Hopton, were reviewed by General
* There is a tribe of these remarkable people peculiar to Norfolk. The gipsies were
persecuted by Henry VIII., who ordered, them to leaves the kingdom; and during the
reigns of Mary and Elizabeth, gibbets were everywhere erected upon which they were
mercilessly hanged. In 1676 thirteen gipsies were condemned and executed at Norwich.
Notwithstanding these severities they continued to wander about the country; and have
preserved many of their peculiar customs to this day; but of late years the women have to
some xtent abandoned their peculiar costume.
"Come, Warwick, backing of the Duke of York—
'' Darreign your battle, for they are at hand* S HAKESPEARE .
e
f From the Norman dereigner, "to range troops for battle."
244
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
Johnstone; and later in the same year by the Marquis Townshend. In 1795 the
East Norfolk, the North and South Lincoln, and the Pembroke Regiments of
Militia were reviewed here by the Marquis Townshend. In 1796 General Loftus
reviewed the troops then in Yarmouth. The Duke of Leeds was present.* In the
same year the Marquis Cornwallis inspected the troops and viewed the
fortifications, f On the 19th of June, 1862, a review of Volunteers was held on
the South Denes. The Volunteer forces, which numbered 3,262 men of all
ranks, were divided into three brigades, the whole being under the command of
Colonel Guy, C.B., then in command of the camp at Colchester. The corps were
afterwards entertained at dinner under an enormous pavilion erected on St.
George's Denes. J
South Denes Road leads to the R ACE COURSE where there is a Stand
erected by shareholders, who have also a lease of the South Denes for the two
days upon which the Races are annually held, usually in August, but in later
years there has also been what is called a Spring Meeting.
So far back as 1715 (the year in which Flying Childers was foaled) the
corporation granted leave to John Holdrich§ and other innkeepers to make a
Race Course. "I saw," says Ives, sen., in 1736, "a horse race on our Denes
between Robert Curtis and John Haslad." ¶ It is probable that the matches were
confined to hackneys; and that regular annual races were abandoned, for we
hear nothing more of the subject until 1810 when the Berkshire Militia
happening to be quartered in the town the officers made some private matches
for their own amusement, ||
* The Duke had married in 1788 Catherine, daughter of Thomas Anguish, Esq., and
niece of the R EV . George Anguish of Somerleyton Hall. He died in 1799.
f He was frequently in Yarmouth. He died Governor-General of Bengal in 1805,
aged 66, at Ghaseepoore, on his progress to assume the command of the army in the field.
t "A Narrative of the Proceedings " was published.
§ Rachel Holdrich, widow, daughter of Joseph and Sarah Cutting, died in 1767,
aged 90.
Races were held at this time on Mousehold Heath, at which was sold "an excellent
malt liquor, much in vogue amongst the quality and gentry, called London porter," says
the Norwich Gazette.
|| English, officers in garrison in all parts of the world are wont to seek an outlet for
the effervescence of animal spirits, in horse races and steeple chases. Matches
GREAT YARMOUTH
245
and this led to the establishment of annual races to be held on two con-
secutive days. Some gentlemen of the town raised a subscription
amounting to £367; and Nicholas Bacon, Abbot Upchher, and G.W.
Manby, Esqs., were the first stewards. On this occasion Sir E. K. Lacon,
who then commanded the Yarmouth Yeomanry Cavalry, gave a silver
cup to be competed for by members of that corps, riding their own horses.
The Race Course at Yarmouth for many years presented a very different
scene from what it does at present or will ever do again. The horses
were principally the property of noblemen and gentlemen of Norfolk
and Suffolk who kept racing establishments, for their own amusement;
among whom may be named Lord Suffield,* Lord Rous (afterwards
Earl of Stradbroke), Colonel Wilson (afterwards Lord Berners), and
many others. They and their friends attended for the pleasure of seeing
their horses run, and not for the sake of betting; and the course was gay
with handsome drags and other equipages. Of hired carriages there were
but few; and for the middle classes the farmers sent in their waggons, in
which seats were placed, and which lined the course on one side near the
winning post. There was usually a stake for horses not thoroughbred,
gentlemen riders; and the sports concluded with a pony race, and
sometimes with a pig hunt. Noblemen and gentlemen attending the
races were expected to dine at the ordinary at the Bear Hotel, f where
venison and champagne were provided by the Members for the
Borough, and the festivities concluded with balls at the Town
are frequently made over the mess table; and sometimes carried out at once. Of this a
notable instance occurred one December night in 1803. The cavalry officers quartered at
Ipswich put their night shirts over their uniforms and, with night caps for head gear, rode
a steeple chase of four miles and a half to Nacton Church; to the utter bewilderment of the
rustics who chanced to see them.
* William Assheton, second Lord Suffield. He was so attached to the sport, that he
had annual races in his park at Blickling.
f In those days a few clergymen were accustomed to attend; among others the Rev.
Henry Wilson, afterwards Lord Berners, and the Rev. Richard Gooch. The latter, who
was frequently a temporary resident in Yarmouth, died unmarried in 1878, aged 92. He
was the youngest son of Sir Thomas Gooch, Bart., of Benacre, who died in 1826, by Anna
Maria his wife, daughter of William Hayward, Esq., descended from William of
Wainfleet, the founder of Magdalen College, Oxford. See. vol. i., p. 126; and vol. ii. p.
95.
246
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
Hall, the second of which was called "The Tradesmen's Ball." Railway
trains now pour out their thousands of pedestrians on the course; and
the aristocratic portion of the community have to a great extent ceased
to attend. No nobleman or gentleman in Norfolk or Suffolk now keeps
race-horses, and these animals are at the present time usually supplied
by Newmarket.
Various are the purposes to which the Denes have been
occasionally applied. In the latter part of the last century there
flourished one of the most extraordinary empirics of modem times,
James Graham, who died at Edinburgh in 1794, aged 52 . He occupied
that fine old building in Pall Mall known as Schomberg House, which
in 1780 he furnished superbly, and designated it the Temple of Health,
and in one apartment was what he called a celestial bed, for the
privilege of sleeping in which, he demanded £ 100 per night. He
introduced the novel remedy of an "earth bath," and came down to
Yarmouth to prescribe it; and a number of persons were induced to
allow themselves to be buried up to the chin on the South Denes, to the
great amusement of their neighbours, but without much benefit to
themselves.
In 1792 Robert Cowles won a wager of five guineas by shooting
nine out of ten apples thrown up by himself, missing the tenth in
consequence of the charge falling from the gun.
At the extremity of the South Denes is the H AVEN ' S M OUTH , which
is so far artificial as, except for the piers, the river would run straight to
the south, spreading itself over sand banks, which would choke the
passage and render it unnavigable. This was the case in 1336 when the
sands had so accumulated as greatly to obstruct the entrance for ships.
Ten years later, the town being then in great distress by reason of the
badness of the haven's mouth, permission was obtained from Edward
III. to cut a channel nearer the town, which was accomplished after a
vast outlay of labour and money; but in the course of five-and-twenty
years, being unprotected by piers, a bar was formed and the entrance
became blocked up. In 1393, by permission of Richard II., a new
channel was cut much nearer the town; but in the course of sixteen
years this also became choked and useless. The inhabitants then,
despairing of being able to keep a channel open to the south of
GREAT YARMOUTH
247
the town, turned their attention to the north, and in 1408 a licence was
obtained from Henry IV. to construct a new haven upon the site of the
original one between Yarmouth and Caister; and at great cost a channel
was dug out and the river was turned into the sea in this direction. To
assist the inhabitants, Henry VI. in 1453 exempted them from contri-
buting to the subsidy then collected, and also remitted for a time the
payment of the fee-farm rent; but the bailiffs had periodically to file in
the Court of Exchequer a minute account upon oath of what had been
expended on the haven, such account being certified by the Prior of the
Convent of the Holy Trinity at Norwich. These accounts, which are still
preserved among the Exchequer Records, afford a curious insight into
the cost of labour and materials at that time.* The mouth of this haven
was kept open with great difficulty, and after the lapse of a century it
completely choked up. The inhabitants were then reduced to the
greatest distress; they were impoverished by the great costs, which they
had incurred; and their trade was ruined for want of a harbour. Again
they turned their attention to the south, and with indomitable
perseverance, by permission of Henry VIII., they in 1508 cut another
channel across the Denes very near the site of the present haven; but
being unprotected by sufficient piers it was very soon destroyed.
Considering that they could not live without a haven, which should
have a passage into the sea and the sea into it, the inhabitants set to
work again and constructed an entirely new channel, a mile nearer to
the town and within a short distance of the South Gate. With the
exception of some slight assistance from the Crown, in the shape of
remitted dues and some voluntary contributions from the county, the
great burthen of these expensive works was thrown upon the
inhabitants; the present practice of
* The account for the half year ending at Michaelmas, 1457, tolls us that £I6 had
been expended on piles; £2 for eight score lbs., of iron, and 32s. for making the same into
shoes or sharpening for such piles, and 2 more for iron, and 32s. for making the same into
bolts. Stones wore purchased at 12s. per ton., baskets at 2s. 6d. per dozen. Heath at 3s. per
cartload; and stakes at 3s. Money was expended upon carpenters and labourers, and in
providing broad, ale, beer, meat, fish, and other victuals for them. The whole expenditure
was £ 66. 15s. 9d., of which the sum of £33 9s. 1d. was provided by the bailiffs, and the
residue of £33. 6s. 3d. was taken from the fee-farm rent.
248
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
borrowing money upon an expected revenue to be derived from dues
not having then been invented. So earnest however were the inhabitants,
in providing funds for the accomplishment of a work upon the success
of which the very existence of the town depended, that they spared no
means to this end. Houses and rents belonging to the corporation and to
the Hospital of the Blessed Virgin were sold ; and the costly ornaments
of the Parish Church, plate, vestments, and all other things were
converted into money. Even the bells, as Manship informs us, were "not
forgotten," and the inhabitants themselves, rich and poor, laboured
personally and persistently at the work. But their sacrifices and labour
wore all in vain; the works so far as they had progressed were wantonly
destroyed by the insurgents under Kett; and after having been resumed
and suspended several times, were finally abandoned after a great
inundation which swept away what remained of their labours, and so
flooded the town that boats could be rowed up and down the streets.
The inhabitants were well nigh; in despair; for having no sufficient
passage to the sea their ships had to be dragged across the Denes by
capstans*; and under these circumstances; as may well be imagined,
trade rapidly decayed. Queen Elizabeth in 1559 wrote a letter to Sir
Thomas Woodhouse of Waxham, directing him to confer with the
Bailiffs of Great Yarmouth as to "what was necessary to be done for the
security of that important haven;" and in the following year the town
determined to make a final effort. The site of the fifth haven was again
selected as being the most eligible; and men, women, and children, to
the number of a thousand at a time, worked so assiduously that in the
space of a few days they had cut a channel which was ten feet deep at
low water. Unlike the former entrances into the sea, this channel was
protected by huge breastworks of timber filled in with stones and
rubbish, for which purpose the ruins of the Church of St. Mary ultra
pontem and of the "new work" at St. Nicholas' Church were applied.
The channel being thus confined the tide ran out with increased force
and velocity, and it has been kept open from that time to this; so that
after six laborious attempts a good harbour (the seventh) was at length
obtained ; —an example of perseverance unequalled by any town in the
kingdom. From that time; to the present,
GREAT YARMOUTH
249
engineers of eminence have been from time to time consulted as to the
best means of keeping open and improving this harbour. In 1747 Charles
Labelye published The Remit of a View and Survey of Yarmouth Haven.*
The first Act of Parliament for placing the haven under the
management of commissioners, who were authorised to raise money for
its improvement and maintenance, was passed in 1670; since which
time several Acts have been from time to time obtained for the above
purpose, the last being in 1866. See vol. ii., p. 29.; and for a fuller
account of the haven see Notes to Manship, p. 287.
The present engineer to the Haven Commissioners is Sir John Coode.
The harbour's mouth, and the piers by which it is confined, are
within the Parish of Great Yarmouth. In 1570, when the controversy
between the Town of Yarmouth and Sir Henry Jernegan was settled by
Sir Christopher Heydon and Sir William Butts, under the authority of a
commission issued by the Star Chamber, posts were put down by their
order, and these have ever since marked the boundary of the town.
The haven's mouth has been the frequent scene of fearful accidents.
In 1725 a Dutch ship coming into the harbour upset, and six of her crew
were drowned. In 1812 a yawl returning to the harbour was upset, and
only one man out of eight reached the shore. One of their companions
standing on the pier threw out a rope, but being himself entangled in it,
he fell from the pier and was drowned. On the 13th of January, 1866,
the life-boat Rescuer, with sixteen hands, put forth with the intention of
proceeding to a vessel in distress in : the Roads. She had scarcely cleared
the harbour before she capsized, and twelve of her crew were drowned,
leaving nine widows and twenty-three children. In the following year, on
the 3rd of December, the Gorleston life-boat being at sea fell in with a
boat containing the crew of the George Kendall, a full-rigged ship of 900
tons, which, on a voyage from Hull to Liverpool, had been abandoned.
The life-boat took the ship's boat in tow and proceeded with her for the
harbour, at the entrance of which they found
* He was the engineer of the bridge at Westminster which; preceded the present
structure by Page. In consequence of an accident to one of the arches, a pamphlet was
published condemning the engineer, which took so much, effect upon Labelye that he
retired to his native country of Switzerland, where he died.
250
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
a steam tug towing in a dismasted vessel. As the life-boat shot under
the lee of the tug she came into collision with a fishing lugger which
was also entering the harbour, when the life-boat capsized and twenty-
five men lost their lives.
The only outlets from the town on the west side are by two bridges
over the Bure, and one over the Yare; all being within the walls of the
old town. The site of the first bridge over the Bure was near the ancient
ferry already mentioned. When this right of ferry age was vested in Mr.
Robert Cory, jun., already mentioned (vol. ii., p. 32), he obtained an Act
of Parliament authorizing him to erect a bridge and levy tolls ; in
pursuance of which a bridge, constructed by Mr. Godfrey Goddard, was
opened in 1829; and through the exertions of Mr. Cory a turnpike road
from Yarmouth to Acle was made under the authority of a special Act
of Parliament, whereby the distance was shortened by four miles. This
road was opened for traffic in 1831. A medal was struck to
commemorate the erection of the
suspension Bridge, which bears
on its obverse a view of the
bridge, with this inscription – To
R to. Cory, R FILIO CONCIVES M
J ERN MDCCCXXIX .; and on the
reverse, within a wreath of laurel,
O B . P ONT F L G ARIENI D SP
I MPOSIT . In 1845 this bridge was
the scene of a frightful accident 1 .
The clown of a company of
travelling equestrians undertook
to proceed
up the Bure in a washtub drawn, by four geese. To witness this foolish
exhibition a number of persons assembled, and as the clown
approached they crowded to the south side of the bridge to see him
pass under. A defective bar gave way, the chains snapped asunder, and
the platform fell on one side, precipitating all who stood there into the
river. Not a scream was heard, nor a sound emitted. After the first
fearful splash a few gurgling struggles only marked the spot where
such a mass of human life had been swallowed up. The number of
victims impeded
1 Also see RRH, Vol.ii, North Quay, re: the suspension bridge disaster.
GREAT YARMOUTH
251
each other, and rendered the efforts to save them more difficult. Many
were rescued, but seventy-nine dead bodies were picked up; principally
children and young lads. There is a tombstone in Yarmouth Churchyard,
near the south transept, upon which the catastrophe is sculptured. A
curious question arose as to the fees payable to the coroner for holding
so many inquests; and his claim was compromised. Mr. James Walker,
C.E., was sent down by Sir James Graham, then Home Secretary, who
reported that the iron of which the bridge had been constructed was of
inferior quality, that the widening of the pathways to accommodate the
railway traffic had been made without sufficient consideration; and that
the contingency of a heavy load all on one side had not been
contemplated,
After the fall of the "Suspension Bridge" another was erected on a
different principle. When the first bridge was erected a toll gate was
placed at the east end, but as the tolls were subjected to the Yarmouth
poor-rate it was removed, and the tolls were collected at a gate placed
within the limits of Runham. The second bridge is on the tubular
principle, and was erected at the expense of the Great Eastern Railway
Company as an approach to their Vauxhall Station; and they had to
purchase the right of doing so from the proprietors of the Suspension
Bridge.
Over the Yare there is but one bridge, which is built upon the site
of an ancient ferry which conveyed the people to and from Yarmouth."
In 1417 King Henry V., by charter, graciously permitted the inhabitants,
at their own costs and charges, to build a bridge; which they did "of
main plank and timber" and having eight arches. Nothing in the town
better exemplifies the progress of scientific knowledge than the history
of this bridge. The first bridge was so narrow that only one carriage
could pass over it at a time, and bays had to be provided, into which
foot passengers could step to avoid being crushed. In 1553, when
troubles were expected on the proclamation of Queen Mary, it was
made a drawbridge to protect the town from an attack on that side; as
well as to allow the passage of vessels; but, quoth Manship, " there is no
less wisdom in preserving as in building," and a law was made
prohibiting all carts from passing over it! In 1570 this bridge was swept
away by a flood. The rush of water was so great that the ships at the
252
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
Quay were forced from their moorings and driven against the bridge
which was broken down.* A ferry had to be substituted, which raised a
question between the town and Sir Henry Jernegan, Lord of the Manor
of Gorleston, as to who had the right of ferryage. Both parties put on
boats; but as soon as Sir Henry's boat came to the Yarmouth side, the
bailiffs seized it and sent the ferryman to gaol. Sir Henry retaliated and
did the like; so the passengers had a bad time of it. At last it was
arranged that Sir Henry should have the profits of ferrying one way and
the town the other until a new bridge could be built, which was
accomplished within two years. When Queen Elizabeth was expected,
the bridge was ordered "to be made strong enough to bear her majesty's
carriage;" and she was to be received by the aldermen on horseback,
wearing their scarlet robes, and the common councilmen their black
robes, and the freemen at large were invited to attend, f
The Cinque Ports' Bailiffs thus describe their entry into Yarmouth
in 1588. "This daye, after we had dyned at Laystofte, we took horse
and proceeded on the rest of our journey, and drawing near towards
Yarmouth Bridge, there attended our coming diverse sorts of poor,
lame, and deseased people, who cried out for some relief, on whom we
bestowed some pieces of money, and so riding over the bridge about
two o'clock in the afternoon, somewhat sooner than our coming was
expected; notwithstanding there gathered and flocked together great
store of people who very friendly bade us welcome, to whom we gave
thanks and passed forward to the town along by the Quay, and there
took our lodging, which was appointed for us at one Mr. Damett's
house, where we were very courteously entertained."
It was also ordered by the corporation that no inhabitant should go
over the bridge to buy any goods in Southtown; and if any shopkeeper
offended therein, after being warned, he was to forfeit the goods
bought. There are instances recorded of persons being prosecuted
* In this storm, twelve vessels, one belonging to the port, were lost on the Newarp
Sand .
f The non-arrival of the queen was a sore disappointment, for he was popular, and
esteemed by the people as
" Spain's rod, Rome's Unit, Netherlands' Relief,
" Heaven's Jem, Earth's Joy, World's Wonder, Nature's Chief."
GREAT YARMOUTH
253
for infringing this regulation. In 1630 the corporation determined to recoup the
expense of maintaining the bridge by levying a toll; and the scale of tolls would
"astonish the natives" at the present day (viz.)—
For every Yarmouth, cart loaded ........................... 2
For every Country cart loaded .. .. .. 6 8
For every Country cart not loaded .. .. 1 0
For every cart with, timber, &c.............................. 10 0
No Country carts were, however, to pass over "if likely to do any
harm," and carte laden with muck or dirt were prohibited altogether.
In 1642, when the civil war broke out, the east leaf of the bridge was
drawn up every night. After the restoration the bridge still continued
to be guarded at night; and in 1666 a singular instance occurred of
the inconvenience of a divided authority. Bower, the government
agent, writing to Secretary Williamson, says "the bridge-guard is
kept by the town, the main-guard by the town's foot-company, and
the horse-guard rides up and down at night. The bailiffs and officers
agreed that when the troops came to the bridge-guard the town's
men should give the word, but the new bailiffs who had come in
contradicted this order, so that each demanding the word of the other
they fell out, and the constable of the night was wounded." In
1710 the bridge was re-constructed under the direction of Mr. Isaac
Waters, who, "for his extraordinary care and trouble," was presented
with a gratuity of ten guineas. Further regulations were then made
for enforcing the tolls; and a bar was placed at the east end of the
bridge so contrived as to stop the passage of all carts, but leaving room
for footmen and horsemen. These tolls were very unpopular, and
doubts beginning to be entertained as to their legality, the matter was
brought to a crisis in 1741 when Roger Thompson (hosier), Edward
Proud (his servant), and Edmund Tolver broke the lock off the bar of
the bridge, for which offence they were indicted at the following
Norfolk assizes. The Haven Commissioners in whom, the bridge was
vested, persisted in the endeavour to collect the tolls till 1751, when
they "sent for the woman who kept the bridge," and were informed by
her that "waggons, carts, and carriages of all sorts passed and repassed
over the bridge without paying any toll," and the commissioners came
254
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
to the conclusion that they could "propose no method for redressing
"this evil, and of obtaining the ancient toll other than an application "to
Parliament." At last, in 1765, the bridge keeper was dismissed and the
tolls altogether ceased; but a reward of 5s., was offered for information,
against any person " presuming to pass over the bridge with a loaded
cart or waggon." Twenty years later a new bridge was erected under the
advice of Mr. Gregory Harrison and Mr. John Green, the leaves of
which bridge were raised by ponderous levers (as shewn in Butcher's
picture), worked by a great expenditure of labour, but it was considered
at that time as a great improvement upon the old plan.* In former times
stalls were permitted at the bridge foot; and in 1753 it was ordered that
John Fisher may have an oyster shop there for three years. f In 1771 Mr.
Samuel Bream, as we have seen (vol. i., p. 382), made a design for a
new bridge, which was not adopted. It would have been a solid
structure, with a single arch of 110 feet span. The old wooden bridge
which had for years been annually repaired, was then described as being
in a dangerous condition. J In 1809, under the
* Upon the re-opening of the bridge in I786, Charles Balding, one of the workmen,
was drowned.
f In the middle ages the selling of oysters was regulated by the bailiffs, who having
first had some presented to them "for a taste," fixed the price, which had to be exhibited
where they wars sold. In 1560 a man was fined for selling oysters, "it being the second
week in Lent." The Cinque Port Bailiffs in the "Relation" of their proceedings in 1604,
state that hearing oysters cried, they reprehended the crier and sent for the seller, " who
thereupon sent unto us a peck of the said oysters for a taste, and prayed our allowance to
sell the residue, to which we assented." And on another occasion, a man from Essex
having applied for leave to sell oysters on the Quay near the bridge, " we assented they
state, " but required him to send unto us, before he made sale, some part thereof for a
taste, as of right belonged unto us, which he performed accordingly."
t William Knights, commonly called Tuttle Knights, a butcher who lived in Howard
Street, went into the country one day to bring back a bullock for slaughter.
As they were crossing the bridge into the town,
the animal took fright and set off at a furious
pace, and the driving rope having been fastened
to his body, Knights, was dragged along the
ground, exclaiming, "cut the rope, cut the
1792 rope, and save a poor man's life." This
was at last effected, and had soon afterwards the satisfaction of slaughtering the unruly
beast; in memory of which event he caused the annexed engraving to be executed.
GREAT YARMOUTH
255
advice of Mr. W. Jessop, C.E., an improvement was made by
substituting raised iron wheels and chains, so that the leaves could be
raised and lowered by the aid of six or eight men only." The present
bridge, which, was designed by Walker, was completed in 1853. It is on
the balance principle, and the leaves are raised with the greatest ease
and celerity. This bridge enables us to pass into S OUTHTOWN - , which is
in the County of Suffolk; but before doing so we may mention that it
was formerly the custom, on the first of the Rogation days, for the
churchwardens, accompanied by the Minister of the Parish and some
others, and attended by a rabble who enjoyed the fun, annually to
perambulate the bounds of the parish. At some places the economical
plan was adopted of seizing a boy and "bumping" him at particular
intricate parts, in order that by the indentures on his person the fact
might be impressed on his memory.* Not so at Yarmouth, where a more
generous plan was in use, at an annual charge of about £20; for at the
accustomed places, where in ancient times thanksgiving psalms were
sung and a blessing asked on the fruits of the earth, refreshments were
supplied that an impression might be made on the memory by
"comforting the inner man." By an account for the "Perambulation" in
1804, we find that upon that occasion 272 loaves of bread were
distributed, with twenty dozen of custards, and three firkins of ale,
porter, and table beer. "Where the centre of a river, as at Yarmouth,
marked the parish boundary, a boat was employed to reach it, or one of
the party swam to it, and sometimes a boy was "ducked." On the above
occasion one penny apiece was given to twenty girls, two shillings were
paid for boat hire, and 8s. 10d. expended in beer. At another point in
their rounds, luncheon was served to the perambulators; two tongues
were eaten, six pints of butter expended, six bottles of porter drank,
ninepence paid for three dozen of pipes, and 2s. 6d. given to some
charity girls; and after the fatigues of the day a dinner was provided at
the Star tavern, which cost £8 5s. for sixteen persons, all the above
expenses being paid out of the
* A portly farmer at Windsor having been "bumped" by the perambulators of a
neighbouring parish in 1874, brought an action against them, and recovered £10 in
damages for the assault.
256
THE PERLUSTRATION OF
church-rate. What benefit the church had it is difficult to conceive; but
there was a lingering recollection that previous to the reformation
"beating the bounds'' was a ceremony in the bands of the clergy, and
bore a religious character; and although the Church of England has no
special service for Rogation days, we are told, that the "judicious
Richard Hooker would by no means omit the customary procession,
persuading all, both rich and poor, to accompany him." In some
parishes bequests have been made to provide bread and beer for those
who take part in the perambulations.