The Revised History of Great Yarmouth
Chapter
Six
Chapter Six
The Rows of Great Yarmouth
Until the Second World War, the majority of all the
residents in Great Yarmouth lived in the narrow
passages between the three main streets known as
the rows. Virtually all the properties were owned and
rented out by landlords, who often had quite large
portfolios of houses around the town.The rows all
had their own names, yet those names kept changing,
being generally known by a pub or shopkeeper
at one end or other. There must have been great
difficulty finding the way about until the rows were
first numbered in 1804. Even then, although some
sequences were logical enough, the rows had been
clearly given their numbers by walking around with
a paint brush. In 1804 there was no readily available
printed map, and the numbering was done “on the
ground”. The sequence followed in the numbering
was simply up and down here and there, and not
entirely logical.
Rows
One
to Sixteen
There were 84 rows in the town in 1598 according
to Nash, but by 1619 there were 140. The rows av-
eraged six feet in width, but some were as narrow
as three feet or even less. Most houses previous to
the reign of Queen Elizabeth had been covered with
reeds or thatch, but in 1571, that method of roofing
was forbidden. In 1555 an act had been made by the
Corporation that no-one should let a house without
a chimney, the fine being 10 pounds.
Various
views
of Row
One.
Row One
Ramp or Rampart Row
The first row was the longest row in the town and
ran absolutely dead straight and parallel with the
wall. At its west end was the northwest tower. Also
at the west end, on the south side, was the old White
Swan public house. The dwellings in this row became
very dilapidated, and in the 19th. Century the north
side ones that were built against the town wall were
demolished. In about 1875 there had been build-
ings on both sides of the row. At that time, those
at the west end of the row were leaning severely
outwards towards the centre. Of course all houses
in Gt.Yarmouth are built on sand, or made ground,
and clearly foundations in this row were very poor.
All the drainage, even of sewage, ran down the row
in an open drain, as can be seen on the old draw-
ings of Row One. This water would have seeped
into the sand below and aggravated the settlement.
The buildings on the south side appear to have been
leaning outwards by about 10 degrees, held only by
cross braces against the houses on the opposite side
of the row. In another photo looking in the opposite
direction it can be seen that the row was cobbled,
with the drain on the south edge. At that time, trees
were growing out of the roofs of some of the dwell-
ings. Since 1618 an ordinance had been made that
all doors opening outwards into rows should be
altered and made to open inwards.
100
A New Perlustration of Great Yarmouth
Map of Row One
by
Henry Swinden
1758
second tower
The left-hand section is from the North Gate to the house
west of the second tower, and the right section overlaps
and continues to the North-West Tower.
North Gate
house
Northgate Street
yard
East wing of the
White Swan, or
more likely, the
main building,
facing down the
quay.
Here is a feature
never elsewhere
referred to, a gate
in the wall by the
tower
Tower 2
North Quay
garden
River
North-West Tower
The White Swan
House as at top of right-hand section
Yard, as at top of right-hand section
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The Revised History of Great Yarmouth
Chapter
Six
wide thoroughfare for carts, but we can see from
the photographs in the mid 1800’s that this in
fact never really happened, or else they were
soon rebuilt. The same houses on the north side
were never given numbers, and in the Kelly’s
Directories the numbering runs down the south
side, commencing at Northgate Street.
Rows
One
to Sixteen
The middle of Rampart Road is where the wall
stood. The foundations of the wall still remain
under the road. At the south-east corner of the
row, up by the North Gate was a public house,
which was at one time called “The Plough”,
and thereafter the “Jolly Farmers”. In Palmer’s
time it became a granary, and later a malthouse.
There were two substantial malthouses in Row
1, which latterly belonged to Lacons, and the
western one was not demolished until 1971. It
had been built in 1705, and rebuilt in 1912. The
site of the malthouse was in 1980 a tyre fitting
The owners were fined five shillings each if they had not
complied, and the constables were ordered to nail up their
door. The dwellings in this row, always those of the poorer
inhabitants, were very small, and never had any gardens or
yards. The houses built along the north wall had originally
been built without permission, and in 1641 a Committee was
formed to view them and enquire as to who had erected them.
They had been used as alms houses in the care of the church
wardens, but the Town Council owned the ground. Inside the
houses, the arches in the wall were used as bedrooms. (One
such bedroom was evidently present in the house knocked
down prior to Cotman’s drawing). Many of the
houses were cleared away when it was hoped to provide a
5 North Quay
20, Row 2 (map, p. 107)
centre, but the site in 2004 has
now stood empty for several
years. The next public house
along Northgate Street appears
to have been the “Bird In Hand”,
afterwards called the “Black
Horse”, and in Palmer’s time the
“East and West Flegg”, between
rows one and two.
The gap in the wall, and the gap
between the White Swan public
house and the other houses of
rows 1 and 2 can clearly be seen
on the 1855 map by Laing, that
shows the railway tracks which
102
The railway line ran along the narrow North Quay, before the road was widened.